Toyota - Sienna :: 2004 - Grinding Sound Whilst Coasting
Jan 27, 2012
2004 Sienna LE with 193,500 miles. While driving home tonight I started hearing a grinding noise from the passenger front wheel. The noise goes away on acceleration and braking. Whenever I take my foot off the gas it starts to make the noise again. It sounds almost like a brake noise but I just replaced the caliper bracket this past weekend and the brakes look great (less than 20,000 miles on caliper, rotor and pads). I suspect a bearing may be going bad and want to know if these symptoms match a bad bearing. The wheel bearings are all original.
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2004 Sienna LE with 193,500 miles. While driving home tonight I started hearing a grinding noise from the passenger front wheel. The noise goes away on acceleration and braking. Whenever I take my foot off the gas it starts to make the noise again. It sounds almost like a brake noise but I just replaced the caliper bracket this past weekend and the brakes look great (less than 20,000 miles on caliper, rotor and pads). I suspect a bearing may be going bad and want to know if these symptoms match a bad bearing. The wheel bearings are all original.
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I have an 08 Toyota Sienna and yesterday I started to notice a very slight grinding or rubbing sound when I apply the brakes coming from the passenger side front wheel. I can only hear the grinding or rubbing sound when I am going very slowly (like the last 20 feet when approaching a stop sign). The sound pulses slightly like two surfaces that are not parallel are rubbing. There is no pulsation or wobble felt in the brake pedal. I'm thinking it's time to get the rotors turned, but it could also be the brake pads.
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My 2000 Toyota Sienna has been making some concerning noises. It makes a periodic grinding noise, the period is related to the wheel speed...i.e. the noise happens once each time the wheel goes around. I can hear it while I drive, and it's even louder when I roll down the windows. The weird thing is that the noise stops when I hit either the breaks or the gas. First mechanic says that the wheel bearings are shot, and the second says they're fine. There is no "jet engine taking off" noise that I am told is typical of shot bearings, but there is a wump-wump-wump noise at higher speeds.
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Had my wheel bearings replaced 3 weeks ago from a mechanic I never went to, as mine was on vacation. 3 days later tire fell off while driving. So we took it to my regular mechanic and had all safety issues fixed. New brakes, rotor, hub. But noticed that a grinding noise appeared. Took it back to mechanic, and he said that it was due to the spindle being slightly bent. Thst it wasnt a safety concerns, but will cause rotor/ brakes to wear out quicker.
I'd like to trust my mechanic, as he has always done good work for me in the past. But am a little shaky over every noise. I'd he correct?How soon should I get it repaired? I just dropped over $600 to get the can drivable again. So if I can push it off until I can afford it that would be great! Otherwise, I might need a small loan to repair.
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I have an 08 ES 350 and when driving and coasting between 20 - 60 mph, there is a rubbing, grinding, low frequency sound that I feel coming through the gas pedal. What is causing it?
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When I put my van on reverse, it makes this one big "thug" sound. It happens when van is rolling. That's the only time it makes this sound. Is this a serious car problem that needs immediate repair? It has 129K miles.
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I have a intermittent problem with the abs. when I go around a right hand curve there is a clicking sound. This happens between 30 and 40 mph. When I go around a left hand curve the brakes will grab, with the skid i-con illuminate , but no fault code. I have had the toyota dealership looked at it. But they couldn't duplicate. I also had a independent mechanic look at it, he put the computer on it.
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Lately my Sienna makes this noise whenever it is started. The noise lasts for 5-10 seconds. It builds up very loud towards the end and then stops abruptly. I made a recording of the sound and have attached it.
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I have a 1999 Toyota Sienna. For the last year or more, at times -- especially when going over small bumps -- there's a rattling sound that sounds like it's coming from the left front wheel. The steering is tight and there's no vibration in the steering wheel itself. My mechanic checked everything -- including the brakes (and the caliper pins). I am not eager to replace the struts on the hunch this might be the cause, because it might not be, and that's expensive, especially on an old car which we don't drive much.
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For the past couple of days, I've been hearing the sound of pouring, sloshing liquid when I make a right hand turn. It comes from down below the dashboard, toward the middle. It seems to happen only when I've had the air conditioning on, and only when I make a right turn. Today, some liquid actually trickled out onto my foot. What might be going on and how I can get it taken care of inexpensively?
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I have a 2001 Toyota Sienna with 115,000 miles on it. After about 15 minutes of driving, a vibrating buzzing dentist-drill like sound begins to come from the back left of the car (this is also where I put in the gas if that has anything to do with it). I do not know what it sounds like from the outside but its definitely a buzzing sound from the inside. As I increase in RPMs the buzzing sound gets more and more high pitched.
I do not drive this car very much, but about a month ago I was driving down a mountain using the breaks a lot and the buzzing sound started for the first time with a rubber smell. At this point because of the rubber smell, we just thought it was an issue with the breaks and after taking a 20 minute rest, the car drove the rest of the 400 miles or so perfectly fine without any buzzing. I don't use the car very much because I am in college, but when I do, like I said, after 15 minutes this buzzing starts.
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I have an 8 year old 2004 Toyota Sienna LE minivan. This past weekend I tried running the air conditioner when the temperature was in the low 80's (F) outside. Unfortunately, the AC only blew hot air, even though I drove a pretty long distance with the AC on.
I think the refrigerant has leaked out and is depleted. Whether or not I should attempt to recharge the AC by myself with my neighbor's assistance (he has all of the gear for recharging the refrigerant) or if this is a job that is better left to a professional.
Also, if I do attempt the job by myself, would it be better to try and seal the leaks with a dedicated sealant first, or should I use the canned refrigerant that also contains some kind of sealant?
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My wife's '04 Sienna is having an AC problem. The compressor comes on with the first start of the day and the AC blows nice chilly air. As you take that first drive of the day the air will switch to warm, then the compressor may kick back on or it may not, but then it stays off for the rest of the day. I'm not sure if this is because of the ambient temperature rising throughout the day or because of the engine parts heating up.
The low side pressure is 35 when the compressor is on.I tried switching the MG-CLT Relay with the Horn Relay to see if it was bad but the horn still worked and the compressor still doesn't come on.
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My 2008 Prius had a front quarter panel replaced after my wife back in to a fire hydrant.The body work looks fine , no issue there, but now when the car is coasting with the gas engine off you can hear a humming sound that was not there before the repair.Also it does,nt seem to be recharging the hybrid battery at the same rate.My thought is maybe the body shop caused some damage to MG1 by spinning the front tires on a emision testing machine or rollers.Does special precautions would have to be used when testing wheel clearances after a quarter panel replacement on a hybrid? Would a body shop need to do this ?
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When I turn on the heat, I only get hot air through the drivers side vent,the passenger side vent is very cold. I had it in to be worked on (at a Non-Toyota shop)and they tore it completely apart and could not diagnose the problem. It affects the entire system,meaning the air going to defrost is also hot on the drivers side and cold on the passenger side.
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I have a 2004 Sienna LE with 169,500 miles. It started to shift hard between 2nd and 3rd gear in traffic (it had previously never had ANY hard shifting). A few minutes later the CEL came on along with the VSC and Traction Control lights. Both Advance Auto and a Toyota dealer confirmed that the codes showed the speed sensors on the rear wheels (both sides) were bad. The Toyota dealer also declared that the low gear solenoid in the transmission was bad and the transmission would need to be replaced soon. I found it strange that the transmission started shifting hard at the exact same time the speed sensors went bad. Is it possible that simply replacing the speed sensors would fix my hard shifting issue? I am a shade tree mechanic that does brake work and other intermediate tasks. Is speed sensor replacement an easy job on this Sienna?
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I recently accidentally drove my Camry into curb in a parking lot. It was only a light, but since then I've noticed a grinding sound ONLY when turning right. Everything else seems fine. I looked under the car and saw the black plastic casing under the car is cracked and it looks like it might be grinding against the left tire, which could cause that noise. I've also heard it could be a bearing, but would that suddenly happen immediately after an encounter with a curb?
I do plan on taking it to the shop, but I have to wait at least a week until I get paid. I'm guessing that should be okay.
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I have a 2008 manual transmission toyota tacoma about 50k miles. I am in vegas for the summer and since being here in the last couple weeks when I just start driving and go from 2nd to 3rd gear there is a grinding sound. Also a little bit when in 3rd gear. After the first couple minutes of driving it doesnt do that at all. What it may be or what I can do to alleviate the problem without a shop selling me a new transmission.
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Replaced the clutch on my son's 01 Cavalier 4 cyl. Replaced Clutch as it was slipping, and replaced hydraulic throw out bearing/slave cylinder at same time. New throw out bearing failed after only 500 miles or so, seal broken, started grinding on down shift and coasting (deceleration) followed by leak and no pedal. Replaced with new Slave Cylinder and Throw out bearing, the new one is starting to show same grinding noise on shifting and deceleration. What could cause this? Used the spline alignment tool to adjust the plate on center the right way. Could the pressure plate springs be off center? The flywheel was purple could it be warped and throwing the pressure plate springs off center thereby causing them to rub against the I.D. of the Throw Out Bearing slave cylinder seal?
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I thought I'd be free of problems having bought a new Toyota Rav4 in Jan. In June, with less than 3K miles, my husband had a (BIG) fender bender (turns out his meds made him blank out, he was driving at 10-15 mph) (and he is going on 80). Repairs cost over 3K, but I was able to drive it to the dealer. Soon after I got it back a month later, I started hearing a brief grinding noise under the accelerator, at speeds of 20-30 mph. Mostly after I took my foot off the accelerator, once or twice after I took my foot off the brake. This noise sounds like brakes grinding, appears very sporadically and briefly. I took it to the dealer and of course they could find nothing wrong, said everything checks out. They said to bring it back when it's doing the noise. Which it does maybe once a week, for a second or two. sheesh.What to do? I actually want to start all over, I do not want to drive with my ear to the gas pedal. (My husband now only drives in town!)
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