Toyota - Sienna :: 2004 - Air Conditioner Only Blow Hot Air
May 23, 2011
I have an 8 year old 2004 Toyota Sienna LE minivan. This past weekend I tried running the air conditioner when the temperature was in the low 80's (F) outside. Unfortunately, the AC only blew hot air, even though I drove a pretty long distance with the AC on.
I think the refrigerant has leaked out and is depleted. Whether or not I should attempt to recharge the AC by myself with my neighbor's assistance (he has all of the gear for recharging the refrigerant) or if this is a job that is better left to a professional.
Also, if I do attempt the job by myself, would it be better to try and seal the leaks with a dedicated sealant first, or should I use the canned refrigerant that also contains some kind of sealant?
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The rear vents in my '09 Toyota Sienna minivan do not blow heat, only cold. The vents up front work just fine, but when I turn on the rear heater (whether from the front controls or from the rear controls), my kids get iced. They never blow heat, even after long periods of time. (Also, the upper vents in the back do not blow strong, even on High, although the lower one does). I heard something about an interior heat sensor, and about blend doors.
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The dash temp gauge reads in the middle between hot and cold within a few minutes of running. However, it takes about 20 minutes for hot air to come out the heater vents when the heater is set to maximum heat and the fan is on. What should I check and in what order?
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I was driving up hill last night and the van lost power competely. The car did not die out but I could not get it to move. After it cooled down for 20 minutes or so I was able to move it another half block up hill out of the intersection I was obstructing. It then failed again. I was able to shift it into 'L' to move it to the side. I had it towed home. This morning the battery is not completely dead but the car won't turn over. Sound like the transmission?
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I have a 2002 sienna that will lose power to radio, air conditioner, power windows, surges when going down the road. So far it only last for a little while. And for a while now there has been times y…
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I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee and the air conditioner is giving me some problems. The issue is that at random times, it stops cooling, and just blows hot air. Sometimes I can drive all day, and it's fine. Other times, it only blows cold for a few minutes, before the air gets warm.
I've started checking under the hood when this happens, and the compressor is not engaged. I noticed a couple of times that the hoses were frosted over (not every time when the compressor was out). I have found that when the air starts blowing cold, I can turn on the heater for a few minutes, and then when I turn the A/C back on, it will blow cold air again. However, often times the cold air will only last around 10 minutes before it blows warm again. Plus, there are a couple of instances where the heater trick didn't really work.
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I am in need of the diagnosis of an air conditioner & radiator fan problem on a 2002 Cavalier LS Sport.
The air conditioner blows cold air while the car is moving most of the time. At idle, the air conditioner will suddenly blow warm or even hot air.
At idle with the air conditioner off, the car idles fine. When you turn the a/c on, it runs a bit sluggish. Also, ever 5 seconds you hear what I assume to be the compressor cycle on/off.
After a little research I discovered that this problem could be a faulty radiator fan motor.
Tonight, I pulled the electrical plug to the fan and found that I had voltage to the plug when the engine was running with the air on or off. I then ran wires direct from the battery to the fan and could not get the fan to spin. This obviously tells me that the fan motor must be bad.
My real question is.....should I really have voltage to the fan when the a/c is off and the car is just started? I thought the fan should only turn on when the engine got warm with the a/c off. I started the car and pulled it in to the garage and then shut it off before I did my testing so I don't think that would classify as getting the engine warm.
I am now wondering if the voltage was always present even with the AC button off because I may have had the fan in the recirculate mode. The AC light is lit in this mode even when the AC button is off.
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My wife's '04 Sienna is having an AC problem. The compressor comes on with the first start of the day and the AC blows nice chilly air. As you take that first drive of the day the air will switch to warm, then the compressor may kick back on or it may not, but then it stays off for the rest of the day. I'm not sure if this is because of the ambient temperature rising throughout the day or because of the engine parts heating up.
The low side pressure is 35 when the compressor is on.I tried switching the MG-CLT Relay with the Horn Relay to see if it was bad but the horn still worked and the compressor still doesn't come on.
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2004 Solora ... 185K Miles and after driving about 45-60 minutes the AC stops blowing cold air. The blower inside the car runs, the clutch is still engaged on the compressor yet only warm air is blowing through the vents. If the car sits overnight the AC will work again. It does not always stop after 60 minutes of driving. Sometimes I can go days driving 60 minutes at a time and the AC works the entire time. Other times it will quit after 45 minutes. When it works I have no complaints.
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I have an issue with my a/c. The left side blows out air but it is not cold. The right side is cold. The whole front dash has 4 vents total so the left two does not blow out cold air at all.
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I own a 2007 Camry LE. It's 4 cylinder and has 80k miles. Since I can remember, the A/C takes a really long time to start blowing cold air.
I'm in Miami, where ambient temp is about 90 F every day and it takes about 2-3 minutes to blow cold air. I can tell because this usually happens when I get around a certain street (SW 40th Street), so the problem is self-replicating regularly.
My father is a house A/C mechanic and he filled it with refrigerant but this has not fixed the problem. If the car has been driven and been parked under shade, the A/C blows cold air since the start. After being driven for 2-3 minutes, it blows cold air like a monster, I usually have to run it on 70 % cold and low fan - that's how well it performs.
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2004 Sienna LE with 193,500 miles. While driving home tonight I started hearing a grinding noise from the passenger front wheel. The noise goes away on acceleration and braking. Whenever I take my foot off the gas it starts to make the noise again. It sounds almost like a brake noise but I just replaced the caliper bracket this past weekend and the brakes look great (less than 20,000 miles on caliper, rotor and pads). I suspect a bearing may be going bad and want to know if these symptoms match a bad bearing. The wheel bearings are all original.
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So i just bought my lexus es350 2007 and I just realized that my driver's side doesn't blow cold air unlike the passenger's side i tried to google it and then i believe as i read on here its the blender door.
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When I turn on the heat, I only get hot air through the drivers side vent,the passenger side vent is very cold. I had it in to be worked on (at a Non-Toyota shop)and they tore it completely apart and could not diagnose the problem. It affects the entire system,meaning the air going to defrost is also hot on the drivers side and cold on the passenger side.
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I have a 2004 Sienna LE with 169,500 miles. It started to shift hard between 2nd and 3rd gear in traffic (it had previously never had ANY hard shifting). A few minutes later the CEL came on along with the VSC and Traction Control lights. Both Advance Auto and a Toyota dealer confirmed that the codes showed the speed sensors on the rear wheels (both sides) were bad. The Toyota dealer also declared that the low gear solenoid in the transmission was bad and the transmission would need to be replaced soon. I found it strange that the transmission started shifting hard at the exact same time the speed sensors went bad. Is it possible that simply replacing the speed sensors would fix my hard shifting issue? I am a shade tree mechanic that does brake work and other intermediate tasks. Is speed sensor replacement an easy job on this Sienna?
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The AC in my 03 Corolla stopped working. A Mechanic originally diagnosed it as low in Refrigerant - brought it up to full charge. Stopped working again in a couple of days. I took it to a different mechanic who confirmed that there was no leak and it had a full charge. He could make the compressor come on by shorting a connector (located near the compressor). Otherwise the compressor does not come on when the AC is turned on from the switch inside. The blower fan works OK. The fuse is OK. The relay works OK.
The mechanic tells me that the only thing could be that the PCU ( the computer?) has gone bad and that only the dealer can replace it and reprogram it. The car has done 120,000 miles and I am wondering if its worth spending that much money to get it fixed -- that is if the PCU is the real problem. Could it be something else? Is there a way to get a used PCU and have it installed by a mechanic other than the dealer?
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I own a 2001 Toyota Echo. When I turned on the air conditioner, the fan would run, but there was no cooling. I took it to the Toyota dealer for repair, and the problem was a bad compressor. The compressor was repaired and the a/c worked. Twelve days later, the a/c would not cool. I took it back to the dealer, and the problem was "Found clutch melted to AC compressor." Fortunately, the repair was still under warranty, so there was no extra charge. I had never heard of the "magnetic clutch assembly" melting itself to the AC compressor.
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In my 2003 Toyota Sienna, the ABS system comes on at low speeds. Since I will be trading in shortly, don't want to pay for costly sensor repair. Looked at fuse box to remove ABS fuse, and found 3 fuses that are labeled as ABS. Which should I remove?
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My Sienna's Got the Shakes! At around 30mph and higher, my 2004 Toyota Sienna starts with a constant vibration coming from the front end. It gets faster as the speed increases and it only happens when I'm accelerating... when I take my foot off the gas it goes away. I unknowingly bought the car with this problem, and I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to fix it or sell as is, but I'm getting stumped about the cause. A couple mechanics thought it is from bad motor mounts. I replaced the front mount because it was the easiest to access and could clearly be seen as cracked in the rubber. However, it didn't seem to change the vibration at all, and my mechanic then wasn't convinced that spending money on trying to replace the other mounts was going to do the trick. Another person took a look at it and didn't think it was the motor mounts either, but thought it was something in the drive train which would need to be checked out by the dealer which would be fairly costly. I would love to get it fixed because the rest of the minivan is in good condition.
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I have a 1996 Toyota Tacoma, 5 speed manual pickup.
Occasionally I use the air conditioner. I'll be driving along and it's working fine but then it stops putting out cold air. I pulled into the mechanic one day and confirmed that when it is not putting out cold air, the compressor still seems to be running.
If I go into a store for about 15 minutes and then come out again, it works again. What might be happening?
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I bought a brand new 2005 Toyota Sienna and since then have nevered got any warm air to come through the rear vents. Only the front passenger and driver gets the heated air. The back rear get only cold air.
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