Toyota - Sienna :: 2002 - Slips Into Fast Reverse And Brake Won't Work
Jul 7, 2011
Tonight our 2002 Toyota Sienna (automatic transmission) was in drive, but stopped (foot on brake) during a traffic jam. Traffic picked up and the driver moved his foot from brake to gas. The car went into reverse at a high speed. The brake did not work. The driver quickly changed gears to park.
1. What is (are) the problems resulting in this situation?
2. Has additional damage been done by switching into park?
3. Is it safe to drive to the repair shop?
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I keep coming up with unusual issues with my can. Ok, so I just had to replace brakes and rotors on the front. Now when I brake, it makes a mechanical whine/squeal and slips for a second. (Randomly, not evertime) The noise seems to come from peddle. It's not a grinding noise like you would hear with low pads or rotor, or even caliper seizing up. I'm hoping nothing serious. Possibly bad abs pump??
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I own a 2005 Sienna CE with about 100,100 miles. In the past couple of weeks, I noticed that when I go into reverse, the car makes a whistling noise. At first I thought it was when I press on the brakes but it appears to make the noise even when not braking. It does not do this all the time; only sometimes. It appears to do it more when reversing and going down a slope.
I tried googling this but couldn't find anything. Some people say the brakes which were all replaced a couple of months ago.
Not sure if it is related but the car also makes low chirping noise when driving about 40 miles per hour.
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When I put my van on reverse, it makes this one big "thug" sound. It happens when van is rolling. That's the only time it makes this sound. Is this a serious car problem that needs immediate repair? It has 129K miles.
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Last night when accelerating from 40 to 60 mph I felt a "whoosh" and then the RMPs went to 3000 when I had my foot on the pedal. They dropped to 1200 if I let off. This morning the car would shift into reverse, but punching the accelerator did nothing. Other gears are fine. I rolled out of the drive, stopped at the mech and diagnostics showed only a bad speed sensor. I saw a post elesewhere that had a similar issue in 2006, same model Toyota Sienna 2000 xle. Mech pricing the transmission replacement. Could it just be malfunctioning speed sensor sending bad data to the ECM?
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My Toyota Sienna 2002 van has been stalling when I stop off and on for about 2 weeks. Most times it starts up again and continues to run. I can go days and it doesn't happen then yesterday it happened 7 times in the course of 10 minutes. I've had it connected to a computer diagnostic system three times, couldn't find any error messages.
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My Sienna 2005 experience intermittent complete brake failure 3 times within 18,000 miles,the brake pedal goes to the floor and it does not slow down, so I coast until I stop. However, when I release the brake pedal and then reapply the brakes, it works fine. A non-Toyota mechanic thinks it's due to malfunction of ABS. The dealership is unable to finds error codes and brakes work fine when the Sienna is in their hands. I scared that the brakes will not work the next time I reapply the brakes.
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2002 Toyota Sienna wobbles when engine under load and is more noticeable at certain speeds (like around 40 mph). The wobble is lateral in the body of the car and the steering wheel IS NOT vibrating.AutoMD web site suggests it may be the motor mounts. I did their diagnostic suggestion of putting the car in gear with the emergency brake on and foot on brake .. and revving the engine and letting up. I didn't notice a "knock" when the torque was released on the engine.My local mechanic is stymied ... says he checked the motor mounts, and front end mechanics and they are OK ...
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I have a 2002 Toyota Sienna van. My garage failed to check the brake shoes as requested, so I gouged the back brake drums and had to have them replaced. Shortly afterwards, whenever I brake, in the last 2-3 seconds before I stop there is a thumping noise from the right rear wheel. It will thump a few times, maybe 2-5 times, perhaps one thump per wheel rotation. I don't feel any pulsing in the brake pedal, and except for the noise braking seems normal. Could this be due to the shoe adjustment being too loose, so the shoe has room to pulse inside the drum?
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I have owned a 2006 Toyota Sienna for about a year and half, it has 180,000+ miles on it. Periodically and totally unexpectedly, we'll go over a bump in the road and the van will totally lock up like I have pulled the emergency break up. Which I haven't. The van will still be in drive, the tires will come to a complete stop and we'll have see and smell burning rubber.
To get the car going again, we'll have to put it back into park and then back into drive. Its one of the scariest things I have witness being in a car. Luckily it usually happens between 10 -20 miles per hour and we haven't had an accident because of it. I have taken the van to 3 mechanics including a Toyota dealer and no one has been able to fix it. The only thing that has work for a time has been cleaning the speed senors, Also, it maybe worse when the A/C is on but we aren't sure.
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When it rains, it pours. My 2002 Sienna had a burned out headlight bulb the other day.
So, why am I even mentioning it? Buy a new 9003 bulb, open the hood, unplug the socket; pull off the rubber cover, twist the clip and take out the bad buld, and reverse it to put in the new one.
No one in town had a 9003. They did have 9004, but some on-line research said some bulbs have very precise placement for the filaments. While I am not sure 9004 is different wiring from 9003, why bother?
So, I dug in the box of used parts, found an old bulb I swapped out probably over 100,000 miles ago, grabbed some pipe cleaners and rubbing alcohol, and cleaned that old bulb and put it in. Works fine.
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Coming home from a road trip we stopped for gas not 5 minutes later the check engine light started flashing. The car was fine as long as you were puching on the gas but as soon as you slowed to a stop it would either die or shudder until I gave it some more gas. Being stupid I figured that I could probably get it home since It was only 25 miles of freeway driving and I wouldn't have to stop until I got near my home. I took it to a mechanic the next day and they said that it was my timing belt.
The next day I get a call from them telling me my timing belt is fine but they discovered that a valve adjuster shim is missing on cylinder 6 and the adjuster cup is jammed down as well as a crack in the locating pin hole so that the pin is moving causing the cam to shift in relation to the cam gear. They suggested I rebuild or replace the cylinder heads and may need to replace the engine. What this could be?
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I have a 2002 Toyota sienna XLE, 95k miles. A few weeks ago I replaced the battery with a DieHard. Immediately after this, the right sliding door stopped working. A few days later the left side stopped working. Neither sliding door works in the manual mode, child proof feature is disabled. Fuses are good. Both doors click when any associated switch is activated but don't open. It was suggested by an owner of an older Sienna that the auto door computer needed resetting. Worth a try. His procedure involved disconnecting the negative side of the battery, waiting 3-5 minutes, reconnecting battery, use the key fob remote to open a door and then close it using the fob. Wait 10 seconds open and close same as before, doing this a total of 3 times. It didn't work, door clicks won't open. Tried again same results. This makes sense and my thinking goes that perhaps the sequence is different for a newer model.
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we have a 2002 Toyota Sienna Van; recently, there has been a smell like turpentine coming from the front passenger seat. We have tried spraying large amounts of the freeze on it to no avail.
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I have had that car, the best one I have ever owned, since shortly after Nine-One-One, a date some of you may remember.
I never open any door but the driver's door with the key. Several months ago, for some reason it occurred to me to try and see if they worked.
Nope, both the rear hatch and passenger's door lock would not open with the key. I assumed that the mechanism corroded up over lack of use over the years.
I thought, Well, crud. But, since I haven't used those door locks in over 12 years, I can probably get by.
I thought I had lost the spare car key when I was in Texas in December. To my surprise, I saw it on the key rack in the kitchen here in rural Mexico. I took it out to the car to check it out, and it opens all the doors.
I compared the keys, and one of the 'vanes' on the key I use all the time is a very tiny bit smaller than on the spare key. My guess is either that key never opened those two doors and I never noticed it. Or, it has worn over 12 years.
So, I guess when I get back to the States, I will have a copy made of the spare key. I am also going to post this on Sienna Chat for obvious reasons.
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So I've got the exact same issue as the person who posted this: [URL] ....
Brake lights not working on Toyota Sienna 2005 XLE after emissions testing connected to the dataport. Went to the Toyota dealership this afternoon and it looks like a wiring issue. Also found out when the left blinker is engaged, it blows the 10A STOP fuse which then causes the ABS and VCS(?) lights to illuminate. What a mess....
Is the easiest way to fix this just to run a new wire to the affected area? The folks at the dealership seemed to suggest they were going to need to rip out all the interior to find the break in the circuit. Timing-wise, this problem starting happening right after I went to get emissions checked and they plugged a cable into the data port to pull emissions(?) and other data.
My hunch is that these two events are directly related but I don't have much knowledge of how things are wired up , what might have caused this problem.
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My roommate owns a 1987 Toyota Van. Those vans that have the Motor under your butt. Anyways, when we make a sharp turn (like fliiping) in either direction, we start hearing a thumping noise... It goes fast or slow depending on how fast your whipping around. We thought it was a CV joint, but, it looks like there isn't a CV Joint (Axel) Where to start to solve this?? Cause even when it goes down the highway you go into the curve and your really hear it.. The lug Nuts on the van are Tight, I've checked. We may think its a wheel barring..
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Toyota corolla 2013 automatic gear reverse lights don't work after I installed new stereo it's my fault i shorted 12v positive backup (reverse) light trigger camera stereo v12+ cable to ground while backup (gear R) in place. As a result reserve lights don't work beside gear indicator doesn't show on main screen. I can drive without problem but problem still intact.
I checked all fuses and they are all okay I need to identify problem or possible repair too I only find 2 fuses behind glove box i think they call "instrument panel" there are bunch of cable and underneath of cables there is only 2 rectangle shape fuses I could not see anything else, the other fuse box is in engine compartment i thoroughly tested each small fuses they are all okay is there anything else i forgot to check ?
I attached also instrument panel screen shot ....
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord, 4 cylinder, automatic transmission. Transmission slips in reverse when backing up a slight incline. Will changing the transmission fluid solve this problem? The car has 115000 miles on it.
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Brake and Revers lights not working on 1999 Toyota Corolla? I have checked fuses and wire connections with no results. My brake and reverse lights just stopped working yesterday and I don't know what else to check.
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My '87 Chevy S-10 transmission slips like mad in forward gears and I can't go everywhere in reverse. The truck is gaaged in southern Virginia about 60 miles from my home and is used on some country property. The local transmission shop wants $1600 to rebuild the trans. He says he used sturdier parts than the replacement GM parts. I'd like to fix the truck because it comes in handy and was my dad's old mode of transportation around the Va. countryside, so it has sentimental value.
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