Toyota - Sienna :: 2002 - When It Rains - Head Light Burned Out
Jul 15, 2014
When it rains, it pours. My 2002 Sienna had a burned out headlight bulb the other day.
So, why am I even mentioning it? Buy a new 9003 bulb, open the hood, unplug the socket; pull off the rubber cover, twist the clip and take out the bad buld, and reverse it to put in the new one.
No one in town had a 9003. They did have 9004, but some on-line research said some bulbs have very precise placement for the filaments. While I am not sure 9004 is different wiring from 9003, why bother?
So, I dug in the box of used parts, found an old bulb I swapped out probably over 100,000 miles ago, grabbed some pipe cleaners and rubbing alcohol, and cleaned that old bulb and put it in. Works fine.
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My Toyota Sienna 2002 van has been stalling when I stop off and on for about 2 weeks. Most times it starts up again and continues to run. I can go days and it doesn't happen then yesterday it happened 7 times in the course of 10 minutes. I've had it connected to a computer diagnostic system three times, couldn't find any error messages.
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2002 Toyota Sienna wobbles when engine under load and is more noticeable at certain speeds (like around 40 mph). The wobble is lateral in the body of the car and the steering wheel IS NOT vibrating.AutoMD web site suggests it may be the motor mounts. I did their diagnostic suggestion of putting the car in gear with the emergency brake on and foot on brake .. and revving the engine and letting up. I didn't notice a "knock" when the torque was released on the engine.My local mechanic is stymied ... says he checked the motor mounts, and front end mechanics and they are OK ...
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Coming home from a road trip we stopped for gas not 5 minutes later the check engine light started flashing. The car was fine as long as you were puching on the gas but as soon as you slowed to a stop it would either die or shudder until I gave it some more gas. Being stupid I figured that I could probably get it home since It was only 25 miles of freeway driving and I wouldn't have to stop until I got near my home. I took it to a mechanic the next day and they said that it was my timing belt.
The next day I get a call from them telling me my timing belt is fine but they discovered that a valve adjuster shim is missing on cylinder 6 and the adjuster cup is jammed down as well as a crack in the locating pin hole so that the pin is moving causing the cam to shift in relation to the cam gear. They suggested I rebuild or replace the cylinder heads and may need to replace the engine. What this could be?
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Tonight our 2002 Toyota Sienna (automatic transmission) was in drive, but stopped (foot on brake) during a traffic jam. Traffic picked up and the driver moved his foot from brake to gas. The car went into reverse at a high speed. The brake did not work. The driver quickly changed gears to park.
1. What is (are) the problems resulting in this situation?
2. Has additional damage been done by switching into park?
3. Is it safe to drive to the repair shop?
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I have a 2002 Toyota sienna XLE, 95k miles. A few weeks ago I replaced the battery with a DieHard. Immediately after this, the right sliding door stopped working. A few days later the left side stopped working. Neither sliding door works in the manual mode, child proof feature is disabled. Fuses are good. Both doors click when any associated switch is activated but don't open. It was suggested by an owner of an older Sienna that the auto door computer needed resetting. Worth a try. His procedure involved disconnecting the negative side of the battery, waiting 3-5 minutes, reconnecting battery, use the key fob remote to open a door and then close it using the fob. Wait 10 seconds open and close same as before, doing this a total of 3 times. It didn't work, door clicks won't open. Tried again same results. This makes sense and my thinking goes that perhaps the sequence is different for a newer model.
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we have a 2002 Toyota Sienna Van; recently, there has been a smell like turpentine coming from the front passenger seat. We have tried spraying large amounts of the freeze on it to no avail.
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I have had that car, the best one I have ever owned, since shortly after Nine-One-One, a date some of you may remember.
I never open any door but the driver's door with the key. Several months ago, for some reason it occurred to me to try and see if they worked.
Nope, both the rear hatch and passenger's door lock would not open with the key. I assumed that the mechanism corroded up over lack of use over the years.
I thought, Well, crud. But, since I haven't used those door locks in over 12 years, I can probably get by.
I thought I had lost the spare car key when I was in Texas in December. To my surprise, I saw it on the key rack in the kitchen here in rural Mexico. I took it out to the car to check it out, and it opens all the doors.
I compared the keys, and one of the 'vanes' on the key I use all the time is a very tiny bit smaller than on the spare key. My guess is either that key never opened those two doors and I never noticed it. Or, it has worn over 12 years.
So, I guess when I get back to the States, I will have a copy made of the spare key. I am also going to post this on Sienna Chat for obvious reasons.
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I looked up the service history of a Sienna 2006 (have been planing to buy the minivan) and found that it had a few incidents with AIR BAG ON. When I initially searched for 2006 Sienna I mostly hit the door latch problems. Looks like the airbag issue has been reported on several blogs and there is no recall yet on this issue.
My question is, if I buy extended warranty, whether this would cover the repair cost or not. Or, should I stay away from 2006 Siennas? If so, which models/years should I avoid?
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Well, a serious problem may be pending on my 2002 Sienna. I get a lot of flats, and usually lose a tire on average each year, due to lots of junk on the roads and streets. So, in the last couple weeks, sometimes the tire light comes on, and I assume I have another leak. But, then it has gone out again after a while and the pressure is okay.
Yesterday, moderate temperatures, I drove only 3 miles or so, to visit friends. The car sat an hour or more. When I started it, the ABS light was blinking and the tire light was on.
I stopped the car, and re-booted, that is, turned it off, and started it again. Lights were okay. Today, I started it, and the ABS and tire lights were on, and not blinking. I re-booted the car, and they were okay.
Three things come to mind:
- Computer
- Bad or intermittent connections somewhere in the light system. The fact a re-boot fixes it tends to preclude this, but with electronics, there is no such thing as 100% sure anything.
- Ambient conditions. I normally park at the end of the house, but workers first put a dump truck load of sand there. Then, they moved in a couple pickups of laja (flagstone) with pieces from very small to maybe 150 pounds each piece.
So, I have parked along the house, and there is a roof drain which drains 500 square feet or more, with a 13 foot drop. I park with the driver's door maybe 3 to five feet from the place it hits. And, it has been raining lightly for the last couple weeks, and heavily the last three days. No water in the car body, but who knows what happens underneath.
I stopped typing and moved enough stones to park there again, and will be telling the workers they need to keep my parking place open for me.
I know we used to have problems with our electronics in private airplanes, and the fix was to install a liner inside the electronics access door. Electronics does not work well when submerged. I also checked with my new scanner, and no DTC; and no history at all.
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My check engine light won't stay off. My mechanic keeps replacing things. He says its got to be the exhaust system. I was wondering if its something electrical or within the car's computer system. First time he replaced one of the catalytic converters. The light went off then reappeared several days later. He replaced the oxygen sensor. Light off again then back on 2 days later. Then he replaced the other catalytic converter. (I was told there are 3 of them). Once again the engine light went off but reappeared 2 days later.
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I hit a pothole on I 55 going about 70 mph and the ABS/tire pressure lights went on. My gut feeling is that this is not serious, as the car is 14 years old (131,000 miles) and runs well. Figure it's just a sensor or connection issue or something like that. Is there a way that I can test to see if my ABS has stopped working without going to a mechanic? The tire pressure light comes on now and then at high speeds and usually means nothing.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Sienna that has had a check engine light for a while. The light would come at times, and go away at others, with prolonged intervals (days, weeks, months) with or without the light.
Suddenly it started losing power, especially on hills (even a small hill). The codes I read are (I include code interpretations from internet search):
P0300: Random or multiple misfire.
P0301: Cylinder 1 misfire.
P0304: Cylinder 4 misfire.
P1130: Air fuel sensor
P1150: I have not found a problem definition for this code.
Might these codes be indicative of a particular problem, or is each problem more likely a problem with its own cause?
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I'm looking for my head light replacement for my prius 2010 IV. if this type of headlight can be used for my prius: Sylvania Silverstar Ultra H11 HEADLIGHTS SU/2 NEW
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I have a 2006 Toyota Prius. I bought it last year at a Toyota dealership. No long after having the car, the head light would go off sporadically, but would come back on if I turn the car off and back on. Now the entire right side, both the head light and fog light are out. I have a 2006 Prius. I looked online and apparently this is a known issue. There was even a law suit against Toyota, for not recalling the cars and costing owner's hundreds of dollars in repairs.
I took the car in, last summer while the car was still under warranty, when I had to get the 12V battery replace, and told the tech about the issue with the head light. They found "nothing wrong"The problem kept happening and became more often. Now that both sides are off and won't come on at all, I called the dealership, they want to charge me almost $300 to change the bulb!
I saw videos online that show how to do this in about 5 min (changing the bulb) without having to take the bumper off, which is what the dealer told me they had to to. I know it is a lot of info, just to ask, would it be safe, or how safe would it be to change the bulb my self? I would of course be wearing gloves to make sure I don't touch the bulb.
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Get water in trunk every time it rains. I think it gets in through the tail light cause the side has a dent.
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My 22 year old daughter drives my 98 Toyota Camry. The lights in the dash have burned out. I need to find out how to replace those bulbs or should I just tell her to be home before dark or maybe tape a flashlight to the steering wheel?
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My 2004 Toyota 4-Runner leaks in the driver floorboard every time it rains. I am at a loss as to why?
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I have a 1997 Camry that has developed a leak somewhere. When it rains the floorboard on the passenger side is soaked, and it has spread to the back seat now. We have tried to recreate the problem with a hose and had no luck. Where can the water be coming in ? Not the front windows or sunroof as far as I can tell.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Camry LE with 106K miles. It?s getting a little clunky but works perfectly. I do regular maintenance like oil changes every 3 or 4 months, breaks, tires. Last year one day during very have down pour rain I noticed something banging/hitting under the seats while driving in this heavy rain & car losing power (slowing down). Something (I am guessing the exhaust pipe? hitting the body. The more gas I gave to gain speed the violent the banging. I slowed down to almost 15MPH but never stop & the car started to work normal. It happened 3 or 4 times before I got home. I check all fluids etc? All normal. Drove later in sunny, cloudy & even in light rain the car runs perfectly fine. Then it happened again in heavy rain.
I told my car mechanic & he checked all even tightened the main belts (not timing belt). No change. Now it?s so predictable when ever its rains heavy & even slushy snow/rain. Lately it started to not only lose power but sometime instead of banging I hear grinding noise when pressing the gas paddle. Some time banging followed by grinding but every time after slowing down the car recoups power and I drive normally. It never ever happens in dry day. My wife who drives ?Buick Century 2004? thinks my car is dyeing and should buy a new. When I describe this situation to any mechanic they points to transmission & want to perform brain surgery to diagnose.
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My husband has water on the rear floor board on the passenger side of the car when it rains. This happens if we drive or park the car during a heavy rain.
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