Toyota - Sienna :: 2000 - No Power Steering Suddenly / Then Returned
Jan 14, 2012
My wife started the 2000 Toyota Sienna yesterday morning (temp about 30 degrees Fahrenheit), warmed the engine for about 30 seconds and drove a block to the stop sign. As she made a left hand turn she was in sudden shock to feel that she had no power steering. She still was able to turn and brought the car to a stop. At that point the power steering returned and she continued her mile journey and eventual return without a problem. The power steering fluid reservoir was full.
There was no puddle underneath the car. The serpentine belt was tensioned. I drove the car to the Toyota dealer and presented the problem to a front desk technician. At first he said it could be the power steering pump or rack and pinion steering assembly. When I told him that the power steering was back after she made the return he said he'd never heard of that situation. Further, he said unless the problem was showing itself when we brought the vehicle in a repairman wouldn't be able to diagnose the situation.
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The power steering on our 98 Toyota Sienna sometimes stops working for a second. It only happens when the car is first started and usually when it is raining or has rained recently. I checked some old posts from Tom and Ray and found one that sounded similar. They said it was the belt being either wet or worn or not tight enough. Does that sound like what our problem is? It also squeals sometimes when you turn the wheel too much so it does seem like the belt could be slipping.
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The brakes on my 2007 Toyota Sienna suddenly went soft. The mechanic first replaced the rear pads, which needed to be done anyway, and when that didn't fix the problem he replaced the master cylinder. The brakes are still very soft. He has bled the system several times to get rid of possible air in the line, but that hasn't fixed the problem.
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I was driving up hill last night and the van lost power competely. The car did not die out but I could not get it to move. After it cooled down for 20 minutes or so I was able to move it another half block up hill out of the intersection I was obstructing. It then failed again. I was able to shift it into 'L' to move it to the side. I had it towed home. This morning the battery is not completely dead but the car won't turn over. Sound like the transmission?
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I have a Toyota Sienna 2005 LE minivan , when I push the brakes my steering vibrates. I checked the tire balancing at the tire store just to double check no issues with balancing he verified all looked fine on tires he mentioned it is possible the front brake rotor causing it. He said I may have to replace the rotor itself since there may not be enough room for resurfacing the rotor. My question is
is it true I cannot resurface the rotors? if I have to buy new ones is it advisable if I buy it from "Autozone or OReilly " store or does it have to be the original from Toyota ? Toyota's pricing are 4 times more than from these stores. I know safety is important so let me know which option is better.
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So I started a "quick" strut job on my mothers 98 Toyota Sienna last weekend, after many complaints about a rattling noise on the passenger side while driving on semi smooth roads. I got in and found that the CV boots were gone, and there wasn't much grease in the boots, all the ball joints were loose, and the wheel bearings were starting to grind. So since the car is at 225,000 I ordered the parts and took Friday off. I started the job, and also found out that the inner tie rod boot was completely full of ATF(This cars power steering fluid). There was a massive 2 day struggle with the CV axle being rusted in the motor mount bracket. But I finally got it all replaced and back together.
So all told I ended up replacing the following parts; Power Rack, Inner Tie Rods, Outer Tie Rod Ends, Rear Lower Passenger motor mount, Strut Mount, Lower Ball Joints, CV axles, Wheel Bearings, Lower Struts, Upper Strut Mount, Fuel Filter, Brake Pads, Brake Hardware, Oil Filter, and the Oil. I got it all back together and just finished the test drive ONLY FOR THE NOISE TO STILL BE THERE!!!!! What did I miss? What could it be? Is there something simple I could have done wrong to continued to have the rattling noise? Also the steering wheel is off 20 degrees to the left, I could handle that, but its not my car and my mother says it needs to be fixed... PS I am planning on taking it in for an alignment, but it does drive straight down the road as it is.
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My 2000 Toyota Sienna has been making some concerning noises. It makes a periodic grinding noise, the period is related to the wheel speed...i.e. the noise happens once each time the wheel goes around. I can hear it while I drive, and it's even louder when I roll down the windows. The weird thing is that the noise stops when I hit either the breaks or the gas. First mechanic says that the wheel bearings are shot, and the second says they're fine. There is no "jet engine taking off" noise that I am told is typical of shot bearings, but there is a wump-wump-wump noise at higher speeds.
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The front brakes on my 2000 Toyota Sienna are dragging occasionally. I have replaced the front calipers (one of them twice), the master cylinder, and the ABS unit (with a junk yard unit). I have also shortened the master cylinder push rod to see if that would make a difference. The brakes still drag occasionally as indicated by the front hubs becoming excessively hot.
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200 Toy Sienna-- Had a oil leak, got it fixed. Drove 15-20 miles and Engine dies on me. Tried to restart, ignition is fine, engine does not catch on. Got it towed to shed, left overnight. Mechanic explains that car has to relearn throttle - memory got reset etc. Car drives fine now. Mechanic says, it did not start the first few times, then all he did was turn on the key and step on the Gas!! Is that right? Or did he forget to to do something? Who's memory is not working?
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I have a 2000 Sienna van. My husband took it a shop for an oil change and now, the next day, there's an oil smell in the engine and it seems to be running hot. Here's the catch: it has a different engine from when I took it in last year to the same shop and they did an oil change and then the engine started smelling of oil, it ran hot, and after a few months the engine died (they told me checking the oil smell could wait and we were broke). I had to have the engine replaced. I would never have taken the van back to that shop! But now it's been there and I'm panicked! What should I do?
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I have a 2000 Toyota Sienna that has had a check engine light for a while. The light would come at times, and go away at others, with prolonged intervals (days, weeks, months) with or without the light.
Suddenly it started losing power, especially on hills (even a small hill). The codes I read are (I include code interpretations from internet search):
P0300: Random or multiple misfire.
P0301: Cylinder 1 misfire.
P0304: Cylinder 4 misfire.
P1130: Air fuel sensor
P1150: I have not found a problem definition for this code.
Might these codes be indicative of a particular problem, or is each problem more likely a problem with its own cause?
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I have a 2002 sienna that will lose power to radio, air conditioner, power windows, surges when going down the road. So far it only last for a little while. And for a while now there has been times y…
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2007 Toyota Camry, 4 cyl, automatic transmission, 147k miles. Was driving ab 60mph and slowing down as I approached a red light. Light turned green but car suddenly would not accelerate above about 20mph or 2000 rpm - ran fine as long as I stayed under 20, but when I tried to accelerate beyond that it started lurching like crazy and wouldn't accelerate. Pulled into a gas station and let it idle for a few mins while I checked the transmission fluid (has had a slow leak but I have been staying pretty on top of the fluid levels). Color and smell of the fluid was fine, but level was just a little low so I added some more fluid and let it cycle thru for a few minutes. Managed to get it home by staying under 20mph. Turned it off and basically ignored it for about 10 days due to being swamped at work. Went to start it up last night and the engine cranks but won't turn over and start. Lights, etc. all work. What gives? Praying this is not a transmission issue.
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Truck is a 2003 1500HD Silverado with the 6.0L 364V8. Last winter I started getting the P1516 code and reduced engine power randomly during driving. After dealing with it for about a month I did some research and discovered in most cases it was either the wiring/plug or the TAC module itself. After going over the connections I couldn't see any visible breaks..etc but I decided to go ahead and change out the connector and about 6inches of the wiring.
After replacement the code hadn't come back until today, probably atleast 9months ago was the last time it did it. Today the code came on four times during a 10minute drive. Before it would come on once during the drive, i'd clear it with my scan gauge, and it would not do it again the entire day. I checked all my connections once again and everything is intact and there is no visible breaks and the connector is clean. I'm starting to think that it was just a coincidence that this problem quit when I replaced the connector, and was wondering if colder weather could have weight on this issue?
After poking around the posts on here and other sites I found that many ended up replacing the TAC module which is on the throttle body. After looking at mine the only way I can see replacing that is just buying a new throttle body with the TAC on it, can't seem to find just the TAC part by itself anywhere. So if I were to order a new throttle body how hard is it to remove/install? and do I have to do a relearn process or is it plug and play?
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My friends 2004 6.0 f250 has 280000 miles on it and it runs perfect "did" until I tuned it with my sct tuner to run a looney tune so he could see what it was like. The truck started he revved it up to 3'000 rpm then when it returned to idle it acted like someone shut the key off. The high pressure oil system is new and has 700 psi and the icp is good also the ipr. The truck Is not getting any fuel at all, no smoke from cranking at all. It is returned to stock and is still being difficult. It has fuel I checked the upper fuel filter, it has enough oil, and it also has a good motor just don't fire. Why?
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08 F-350 Lariat. Folded mirrors in twice today. Second time they would not come back out. After four hours the fold function has not returned. As I read Owner's Manual, if it's a fuse it should take out power to driver's seat . . . correct? All other mirror functions including telescope seem to work normally. So if I've identified the fuse correctly what else could it be? Fold relay? Switch? Where is the fold relay located and how can one test it? What pins on the switch are the fold pins? I just looked at power distribution box schematic. Power fold mirror relay fuse is there. Apparently the only function it has. Better go check it out.
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Driving home tonight went to take an exit and was over come with great surprise when my car didn't move haha. The power steering has seem to have gone. I got home and opened the hood, but due to the antarctic temps couldn't use my fingers to open the fluid cap. The little black box with the fluid seems to have a tick ticking every few minutes. Any thoughts as to what it could be. How bad is it to drive it like this till Thursday when I can make an appt..
I plan on bringing it to a mineke on break just to see if they can narrow it down.
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'03 Ex. 6.0 Diesel 160k miles.
I have a power steering box leak that came on suddenly. The leak is coming from around the pittman arm shaft... and it is pouring out. It's not under pressure, it's just running out and running down the pittman arm.
I've never seen a steering box leak as bad as this is. I've checked the hoses and they all appear dry. Is this common? Can the seal be changed in the truck or should I be looking at changing the steering box?
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My 02 Ex V10 suddenly lost its power steering. And I mean completely, so it was a bitch to get it home. There are no leaks and the reservoir is full. It makes no noise at all when I try and turn the wheel, so it does not even sound like the pump is working at all. Does this sound like the pump or the gear box? Is there an easy way to tell before I just order the pump and hope that is the problem?
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Tucson with 31,000 miles, and my 5-year power train warranty will expire in mid-September 2011. Recently, and consistently, when I drive through a puddle my power steering suddenly quits, the battery light comes on, the brake light comes on, and my blood pressure rises a bit. After a few seconds, the power steering will come back on, or I'll pull over and re-start the car for the power steering to come on.
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My car's about 1.5 years old and 10k miles. About a week ago I started noticing that the power steering got a fair amount heavier/stiffer: it's suddenly a bit harder to turn the wheel. It came out of nowhere and I can't identify a cause, and the local dealership couldn't find anything wrong with the car. (2012 SE I4)
Since it's electric power steering I'm not sure what could have gone wrong here... and while it doesn't make the car un-driveable, it is rather annoying. The tire pressure is still around 37 PSI (according to the sensors) and they're Michelin.
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