I have a 99 Toyota Sienna with an automatic sliding door that has failed. Cost to repair is high $$$. Would like to disable the motor and automatic mechanism and make it a regular manual sliding. Can it be done? If so need a repair shop?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2002 Toyota sienna XLE, 95k miles. A few weeks ago I replaced the battery with a DieHard. Immediately after this, the right sliding door stopped working. A few days later the left side stopped working. Neither sliding door works in the manual mode, child proof feature is disabled. Fuses are good. Both doors click when any associated switch is activated but don't open. It was suggested by an owner of an older Sienna that the auto door computer needed resetting. Worth a try. His procedure involved disconnecting the negative side of the battery, waiting 3-5 minutes, reconnecting battery, use the key fob remote to open a door and then close it using the fob. Wait 10 seconds open and close same as before, doing this a total of 3 times. It didn't work, door clicks won't open. Tried again same results. This makes sense and my thinking goes that perhaps the sequence is different for a newer model.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Toyota Sienna and the passenger sliding door will not slide on its own. You have to tug on the door to get it to engage. The repair shop said the door needs a new actuator. How hard is replacing the actuator on sliding passenger door?? My brother thinks he might be able to do it???
View 6 RepliesLong story short it stopped working. I have tried the reset method with no luck and I can't seem to get it to give me the codes per the factory service manual. This is what I do know when you release the door it unlatches but won't open, I can hear the motor trying to run but it won't pull the door open and it sounds like it immediately reverses but the door does not move.
View 14 RepliesMy passenger side power sliding door on my 2003 Olds Silhouette (147,000 miles) Occasionally will quit working. We can open it and close it manually and sometimes it will start working again, other times it won't work for several days and then all of a sudden it works again.
View 1 RepliesI own a 2005 Toyota Sienna XLE Limited. Awhile back, I received an TSB announcement for possible clicking noises due to some of the door welds breaking off.
Well, I am getting very loud clicking noises and I'm afraid I'm affected by the TSB.
I called one dealer around me and he said it will take the 3 days because they have to send it to a body shop to have them take the doors apart, weld around the doors, then possibly repaint the door due to the paint being affected by the heat from welding.
I have a 2003 Toyota Sienna. The radio has stopped working. All other electrical parts of the car appear to be in fine working order. I found the Radio-No.2 fuse (7.5A) beneath the dash and replaced it with the working 7.5A (working) turning signal with no luck. (The radio fuse DID work when placed in the turning signal fuse slot). So it cannot be this fuse.
Is there a Radio-No.1 fuse? Unfortunately, this car did not come with a owners manual. If so where would I find it?Or could this be a different problem? What else should I look for.
The power steering on our 98 Toyota Sienna sometimes stops working for a second. It only happens when the car is first started and usually when it is raining or has rained recently. I checked some old posts from Tom and Ray and found one that sounded similar. They said it was the belt being either wet or worn or not tight enough. Does that sound like what our problem is? It also squeals sometimes when you turn the wheel too much so it does seem like the belt could be slipping.
View 5 RepliesI have had that car, the best one I have ever owned, since shortly after Nine-One-One, a date some of you may remember.
I never open any door but the driver's door with the key. Several months ago, for some reason it occurred to me to try and see if they worked.
Nope, both the rear hatch and passenger's door lock would not open with the key. I assumed that the mechanism corroded up over lack of use over the years.
I thought, Well, crud. But, since I haven't used those door locks in over 12 years, I can probably get by.
I thought I had lost the spare car key when I was in Texas in December. To my surprise, I saw it on the key rack in the kitchen here in rural Mexico. I took it out to the car to check it out, and it opens all the doors.
I compared the keys, and one of the 'vanes' on the key I use all the time is a very tiny bit smaller than on the spare key. My guess is either that key never opened those two doors and I never noticed it. Or, it has worn over 12 years.
So, I guess when I get back to the States, I will have a copy made of the spare key. I am also going to post this on Sienna Chat for obvious reasons.
I have a 2004 Sienna LE and it has left/right signal problem (not working) in the morning or when the weather is cold. The problem usually last for about 5 to 10 minutes until the inside car temperature becomes warm.
When this problem happens the emergency lights are working. Only the signal left and right do not work.
Is this a common Sienna problems? I brought the car to the dealer but they refused to fix it because they cannot duplicate the problem. I am guessing when the warranty has expired, they will make suggestion to replace the part but not until then.
I was on a highway on my Toyota Sienna LE 2012 today and hit a minor bump (the steel protrusions on road you feel when driving over a bridge) I first thought the tire pressure signal come on, slowed down and it seemed OK. All indicators - Check Engine, ABS, VSC, Brake, Pressure, etc were also ON, speedometer, odometer not working and I stopped under a mile at a gas station. Turned off car, checked tire pressure, it was OK and restarted car - all indicators still ON, speedometer, odometer and power window controls do not work. Steering feels tight but I can drive car - I was on my way to JFK Airport and on Beltway Pky East another 10mi to go yo JFK. Car drove fine, but with all these indicators on, and steering what felt like manual.
I plan on taking car for service tomorrow but I have never remotely experienced anything like this on a car. I am also worried I messed up the car (and dangerous if something else happened...) driving to get to the airport. What could have gone wrong?
So I've got the exact same issue as the person who posted this: [URL] ....
Brake lights not working on Toyota Sienna 2005 XLE after emissions testing connected to the dataport. Went to the Toyota dealership this afternoon and it looks like a wiring issue. Also found out when the left blinker is engaged, it blows the 10A STOP fuse which then causes the ABS and VCS(?) lights to illuminate. What a mess....
Is the easiest way to fix this just to run a new wire to the affected area? The folks at the dealership seemed to suggest they were going to need to rip out all the interior to find the break in the circuit. Timing-wise, this problem starting happening right after I went to get emissions checked and they plugged a cable into the data port to pull emissions(?) and other data.
My hunch is that these two events are directly related but I don't have much knowledge of how things are wired up , what might have caused this problem.
It's a '99 Montana EWB.
OK, I know I have an issue with clean water entering the cabin and depositing itself in the channel next to the driver's side rocker where a fair number of wires are located. It filled with water last fall and I dried it out and never thought too much more about it, but knew there was water coming in somewhere. At first I thought it was the AC, but the drain is clear and running.
It's similar to the damned TSB Bulletin No.: 01-08-45-005E that is a sticky here on the forum.
This time however, I didn't check for water in the fall and this morning in a blinding snow storm at 14F the power sliding door acted up 5 minutes before my wife left for work. By the time she got to work the damned TCS and ABS idiot lights came on, and she says the sliding door attempted to open, but she got it to close.
Now the van is 20 miles away and I won't be able to look at it until I can get it home and try to dry it out again. In the driveway in a snow storm!!!
If GM had been a little more specific about the root cause of water issues mentioned in the TSB, it would make life and fixing this problem that much easier.
My 1999 Toyota Sienna DOME fuse keep blowing and don't know how to find the short. At first, it happens once in a while and I replaced the fuse for few time. Now, it happen permanently (in the way, this is good, I think) so no clock or remote control key cannot be used anymore. Where the short could be?
View 3 RepliesOkay, my wife has a '99 Toyota Sienna with over 200 k miles. Recently, it has began making a loud exhaust noise. I looked at the exhaust system and cannot see any obvious holes. Also, her check engine light has been on for a while. I checked it and it said misfire in cylinder 5 (can't remember the code). Changed plugs and all, still the light. It also idles very high. There's no rotten egg smell that I can tell, but she does say that it seems like it doesn't have a lot of power when accelerating.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1999 Toyota Sienna. For the last year or more, at times -- especially when going over small bumps -- there's a rattling sound that sounds like it's coming from the left front wheel. The steering is tight and there's no vibration in the steering wheel itself. My mechanic checked everything -- including the brakes (and the caliper pins). I am not eager to replace the struts on the hunch this might be the cause, because it might not be, and that's expensive, especially on an old car which we don't drive much.
View 4 RepliesMy wife stopped for gas at a Circle K, about two days later this Sienna started idling rough and missing. I put some Seafoam in it and it cleared up. About one week later, she gets gas again, at another Circle k,about two blocks from the other one. Again, the next day she comes home from work complaining of the van running rough. I took it out and it drove fine. Whenever this happens the Check Engine light comes on, so I ran a code reader on it and it tells me, "Miss detected on cylinder 3".
So I checked all the plug wires, took out the plug (which I had just changed back in Oct.) and checked it, it looked fine. I thought maybe it could be the coil, so I switched the coil to see if I got the same code reading on a different cylinder. I unhooked the battery to clear the code after switching the coils, started it up and still got the rough idle and code. I turned it off (the van) and go in the house, I come back out and start it and it's running fine. I go to the store and all is well, go inside the store for maybe 45 minutes, come back out and start it up, I get the rough idle and missing.
I ran the code reader on it again and cleared the code, then restarted it and it was running fine again. Whatever it is, it has something to do with starting the engine (a 3.1L). One time it will start up and drive fine, the next time it starts the rough idling and missing. I figured if it was the coil and I switched them and got the same code on a different cylinder I'd narrow it down, but so far it has been running normally.
Trying to replace sliding glass motor, quit working and had to cut the cable to shut it due to the rain. It appears I need to remove the seat belts & covers next.
View 4 RepliesI own a 1999 Toyota sienna that has 112,000 miles. For the past few months there has been a whirring noise that seems to be coming from the center engine compartment. It started quietly and now has increased in volume. It reminds me of a speedometer cable that is beginning to fail. I have taken it to my trusted mechanic for a diagnosis and he thought it was metal on metal noise from the transmission. I have owned cars for 40 plus years and have'nt heard of this type of tranny noise. What could be causing this? It makes this noise under power and when I release the accelerator the noise almost disappears. Also there is a clunking noise coming from the passenger front wheel after releasing the brake pedal when I come to a stop. I have replaced the strut,ball joint,and lower control arm bushing trying to remedy this. I cannot find anything else that is loose.
View 4 RepliesI can not find details on adjusting the stops/sliders/ apparatus in this power sliding door mechanisms in the Haynes manual.
How to re-align or adjust these things? mine is not latching properly at the rear securing point 100% of the time.
I have a 98 i just took it up on a trade. The sliding door on passengers side its automatic it wont open i hear something clicking but its not going. Other problem is the windshield wipers only work on high...
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