Toyota - Sienna :: 1998 - Shuts Off While Driving
Nov 4, 2013
I have a 1998 toyota sienna with 170k. Yesterday when I was driving on the highway, the car turned completely off, and then after about 2 seconds started back up again. When it turned off, the electronics turned off along with the engine. I had no brake power, lost power steering, and couldn't even turn on the hazards. It did it 2 more times before I got home.
The second time, I noticed that it did this when I turned on the headlights. This time the engine stayed on, but the speedometer and tachometer went nuts (bouncing up and down) and all of the console lights turned on and off. When I turned the headlights off, everything went ok. When I got home and turned the car off, it went dead. Haven't tried starting it today, but the battery light went on dimly when I put the key in.
Took a quick look at the battery. The terminals are corroded. I'm going to clean them today, but I'm feeling that it won't do much. The battery light didn't turn on, so I'm thinking that the alternator is ok (am I wrong?). Since the electronics and brakes died when the engine died, I'm thinking it's not the distributor coil. Is my ecu fried?
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I had my minivan stop running while i was on the freeway. My electrical seemed a bit off, the speed decreased and it slowly died. I tested the battery and it was fine, tested the alternator and it failed. I changed the alternator and still wouldn't start. I changed the battery as well and it worked for about 2 days and then it did the same thing. Radio started to flicker, all the lights turned on and the car decreased until it didn't run anymore?What could this be? Bad gearing? A faulty brand new alternator?
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I have a 1998 Sienna (at 300k miles I want to drive until it’s dead) and the dashboard has lost illumination in several bulbs. The fuses are good and the bulbs seem fine, but there is a bad connection somewhere. I would like to start cleaning contacts in some of the junctions before tearing the dash apart again.
Which brings me to the big question: where should I look for connections that I can clean so I am sure the electrical system is providing a proper current to the dash bulbs? Besides the idiot lights (working), all I have at the moment is a single bulb that illuminates half the speedometer, while the tach and rest of the dash and air conditioning controls are dark.
As I’ve had other wiring harness connections become corroded and need cleaning over time, need to determine where to begin opening connections to clean before tearing the dash apart.
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I have a '98 Sienna that's still running well (271k miles) but about a year ago it started acting strange, just a rare but minor irregularity in the normally smooth engine. A few months ago I changed the fuel and air filters, but that didn't affect it. So I tried changing the tank pick-up filter and confirming that the tank didn't contain any gunk. Again, no change. Since then the engine light has come on, but it still runs well enough for now. My fuel pressure is solid (manual specs, 50psi I think). I'm not sure if it's too rich or too lean, but I'm convinced it's fuel related unless someone has a better idea.
My suspects: fuel pressure regulator (in the fuel tank), clogged fuel injector(s).
Other potential clues: 270,000 miles on the original engine. No smoke (that I've noticed). After changing the filters my fuel pressure was perfectly solid at manual recommendations (50psi if i remember correctly). New battery, new fuel cap (factory cap; sometimes store-bought ones don't vent correctly). Sometimes the fluctuation goes away for a day or two, while other times it's hard to accelerate uphill at highway speeds. The issue is not clearly affected by temperature (same when 40° or 80°). It was much less noticeable when I drove to Montana this winter; they have a winter blend, which might have masked the problem (or the higher altitude). It's possible I just didn't notice it as that drive killed my steering pump and a CV boot, so my focus was on other problems at the time. I found today that can I make it shudder a little at highway speeds: letting up the pedal for a moment and gently giving it a little more gas causes a gentle shudder, and very rarely what sounds like a small muffled backfire.
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I have a 98 Toyota sienna and it has started making a thud noise and skipping a bit when accelerating or going up even a slight incline. I have been told everything from it needs new plugs/wires to a new transmission. Could these cause similar problems?
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So I started a "quick" strut job on my mothers 98 Toyota Sienna last weekend, after many complaints about a rattling noise on the passenger side while driving on semi smooth roads. I got in and found that the CV boots were gone, and there wasn't much grease in the boots, all the ball joints were loose, and the wheel bearings were starting to grind. So since the car is at 225,000 I ordered the parts and took Friday off. I started the job, and also found out that the inner tie rod boot was completely full of ATF(This cars power steering fluid). There was a massive 2 day struggle with the CV axle being rusted in the motor mount bracket. But I finally got it all replaced and back together.
So all told I ended up replacing the following parts; Power Rack, Inner Tie Rods, Outer Tie Rod Ends, Rear Lower Passenger motor mount, Strut Mount, Lower Ball Joints, CV axles, Wheel Bearings, Lower Struts, Upper Strut Mount, Fuel Filter, Brake Pads, Brake Hardware, Oil Filter, and the Oil. I got it all back together and just finished the test drive ONLY FOR THE NOISE TO STILL BE THERE!!!!! What did I miss? What could it be? Is there something simple I could have done wrong to continued to have the rattling noise? Also the steering wheel is off 20 degrees to the left, I could handle that, but its not my car and my mother says it needs to be fixed... PS I am planning on taking it in for an alignment, but it does drive straight down the road as it is.
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My wife's 2005 Sienna is a very reliable vehicle. But occasionally when I drive it a fair distance--50 miles or so, but not always that far--the check engine light will come on. (It's something vague about emissions, but isn't it always?) And then a day or so after my wife drives it again, the light goes off. The van seems to run fine at all times. So is it something I'm doing when I drive it?
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The 2003 Sienna with 180,000 miles starting slipping in and out of neutral while driving. It can go for several days with no problems then start up again, no rhyme or reason as to when this happens. It started several days after the left rear shock broke, not sure whether this is relevant or not.
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I have had the absolute worst experience with my 2010 Toyota Sienna that has 66K miles. The transmission gears seized (completely locked up) while I was driving down the road, causing such friction/tension that it exploded through the top of the cover of the transmission. Parts of the transmission were falling out of the car and the transmission fluid completely emptied onto the road. This created an incredibly dangerous situation.
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I have a problem and I'm not sure to start. I bought a 2006 Toyota Sienna two weeks ago the only known problem was the radio speakers would fade out after driving it for a while. I swapped it out for another radio and it didn’t make a difference now both sliding doors are also giving me a problem. At first the manual driver’s side door occasionally would not let us out using the interior handle almost as if the child safety lock is on and the exterior seems to require abnormal amount of force to open the handle. Now, this week the power passenger side sliding door started giving me a problem, the door was stuck in the open position and when we went to close it, would only move half an inch so we push it manually. Ever since then the buttons and Fob's only make the noise then are unable to move it any further either open or closing unless I use the handle and now since yesterday the interior handle on the power door is working intermittently as well. I spoke to the previous owner and he said the rear doors were not having an issue that he knew of I’m wondering if the radio and doors could share something in common that could explain both.
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I have owned a 2006 Toyota Sienna for about a year and half, it has 180,000+ miles on it. Periodically and totally unexpectedly, we'll go over a bump in the road and the van will totally lock up like I have pulled the emergency break up. Which I haven't. The van will still be in drive, the tires will come to a complete stop and we'll have see and smell burning rubber.
To get the car going again, we'll have to put it back into park and then back into drive. Its one of the scariest things I have witness being in a car. Luckily it usually happens between 10 -20 miles per hour and we haven't had an accident because of it. I have taken the van to 3 mechanics including a Toyota dealer and no one has been able to fix it. The only thing that has work for a time has been cleaning the speed senors, Also, it maybe worse when the A/C is on but we aren't sure.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Sienna with approx. 130k miles. Recently I am noticing when driving on the highway that I get a humming/ringing sounds. It gets louder and softer as I drive. It is not always there but when it does make that sound, it is when I am over 65 mph. If I tap the brake it immediately stops but then if I hit the gas it starts again. Also sometimes when I tap the brakes (not on the highway) I do get a screeching sound. I've taken it to the mechanic and he checked my brakes and says they are fine. I just got two front tires thinking it was that but it is still there. Is there anything else that I should consider? Should I go get a second opinion on the brakes since the sound stops as soon as I tap the breaks?
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I have a 2006 Toyota Avalon XLS that shuts off while driving! No acceleration or power-steering; the car simply stalls. The car only stalls when at low speed such 20mph, stopping for a light, or slowing down to turn.
The car will start right back up or you can put into neutral and restart. I have been dealing with this for a year! I have taken it to my Toyota dealer where I purchased and to no avail. The car throws no codes and no indicator light stays on once the the car is restarted. I have changed electrical wires, replaced battery, disabled remote start (previous owner installed; I purchased car used).
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My 1990 Toyota Corolla which I hate to retire has only 64,000 miles on it. Starts and runs but while I am driving the dash lights up and the engine shuts off and won't restart. He thinks it is the NEC (?) switch but he said he is not really sure. Spending all that money and then finding out it is not fixed would not be worth it. It also is dangerous what if I am on the expressway?
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My '98 Tacoma automatic has had a intermittent hesitation for 5 months. I've had it to 3 mechanics who cannot get it to hesitate when they are driving it. I left it for 2 nights at the last auto shop and let them drive it when it's cold and they couldn't find anything wrong with it. It hesitated 3 times this afternoon as I was driving it home from the shop.
Everybody has told me to wait until it gets worse to bring it back to be fixed. I have a new catalytic converter, o2 sensor, fuel filter and none of that has worked. The check engine light has come on briefly once, but went off before I could get it diagnosed. What I can do to get it diagnosed and fixed before I get stranded somewhere?
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I have a 1998 Camry V6 with 165000 miles. I had brake pads and rotors replaced on all four tires. Two days later, I noticed a flapping/knocking noise apparently coming from the rear of the car. It only happens after the car as been driving for 5-10 minutes. The noise increases in frequency as the speed of the vehicle increases and is unaffected by braking or bumps and gets louder the longer the car is driven. I took the car back and they re-checked all the brake installations and said everything was fine and the noise was nothing to worry about (of course I had to convince them that there really was a noise). They also said they inspected the tires and didn't find anything wrong. I have jacked the car up and looked under all tires and don't see anything close to the tires that could be hitting them. It sounds like a strip of rubber hitting a metal pan. I see no loose plastic guards or mudflaps. The tires were all replaced less than 2 years ago and they have been rotated regularly and visually appear to be in good shape.
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Some background. I have a 1998 Toyota 4Runner V6 2WD with about 150,000 miles. A few months ago the check engine light was flashing when I am travelling over 70mph. The dealership said nothing is wrong when I asked them to look into it. But I didn't get any codes from it. I read on-line that it could be a possible misfire so I changed the plugs and wires.
A few weeks ago, the check engine light came on and stayed on. I took it to a dealership to diagnosis the problem, they came up with Mass Air Flow sensor was shot. I replaced that, and reset the computer. It still comes on and flashes at highway speeds. I bought a low end computer to read the codes.
I got P300 (Random/Multiple Misfire), P302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire) and P305 (Cylinder 5 Misfire). Cylinder 5 has the coil-pack and Cylinder 2 has the wire coming off the coil-pack for Cylinder 5. So I replaced the coil-pack. The light is still coming on and flashing. How to stop the light from flashing. It comes on only when I am travelling past 70MPH. I have tried just rev'ing the engine up to the same RPM's as I am running when doing 70, but the light doesn't flash then.
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In my 2003 Toyota Sienna, the ABS system comes on at low speeds. Since I will be trading in shortly, don't want to pay for costly sensor repair. Looked at fuse box to remove ABS fuse, and found 3 fuses that are labeled as ABS. Which should I remove?
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My Sienna's Got the Shakes! At around 30mph and higher, my 2004 Toyota Sienna starts with a constant vibration coming from the front end. It gets faster as the speed increases and it only happens when I'm accelerating... when I take my foot off the gas it goes away. I unknowingly bought the car with this problem, and I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to fix it or sell as is, but I'm getting stumped about the cause. A couple mechanics thought it is from bad motor mounts. I replaced the front mount because it was the easiest to access and could clearly be seen as cracked in the rubber. However, it didn't seem to change the vibration at all, and my mechanic then wasn't convinced that spending money on trying to replace the other mounts was going to do the trick. Another person took a look at it and didn't think it was the motor mounts either, but thought it was something in the drive train which would need to be checked out by the dealer which would be fairly costly. I would love to get it fixed because the rest of the minivan is in good condition.
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I bought a brand new 2005 Toyota Sienna and since then have nevered got any warm air to come through the rear vents. Only the front passenger and driver gets the heated air. The back rear get only cold air.
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I looked up the service history of a Sienna 2006 (have been planing to buy the minivan) and found that it had a few incidents with AIR BAG ON. When I initially searched for 2006 Sienna I mostly hit the door latch problems. Looks like the airbag issue has been reported on several blogs and there is no recall yet on this issue.
My question is, if I buy extended warranty, whether this would cover the repair cost or not. Or, should I stay away from 2006 Siennas? If so, which models/years should I avoid?
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