Toyota :: Rust From Pipe Leaking On To Car Hood
Jun 14, 2014
I park in a parking garage for work. A rusted pipe leaked on to my car hood for a while apparently and now my hood is rusted. I took it to a body shop down the street and the serviceman said I needed to repaint and reseal the hood and front bumper.
I went to my garage ownership and complained and they said they will take care of it and gave me a number to call. The repairman made it sound like he wants to just "buff it out".
I'm not a car expert by any means. Does this seem like a "cheap" fix and should I argue more with my garage?
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I rented a 2010 Toyota Matrix with 29,000 miles from Hertz Rent2Buy and noticed rust in the engine compartment screw heads, hose clamps, battery clamp, and on top of the shock housing. The pipe before the muffler has it also. The inside smells fine and the car runs fine. I ran an autocheck report and nothing bad came up. I took it to a local Midas shop for a visual courtesy check and they said it looked fine and that it could have been from humidity or rain if hood was open. The car was registered originally in FL and then mostly in PA. Is this rust normal or should I be concerned?
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A little background info...up until about 6 months ago my 01 Ex V10 was a grocery getter for the wife; only got a few thousand miles a year for the most part. Since we moved from Washington state to Texas it has turned into my daily driver (after a 2500 mile drive towing 8k trailer).
A couple of weeks ago we were running errands and after we got home there was smoke coming from under the hood, but I couldn't pin point it. I let it be because I figure it would let me know when something was really wrong. A few days later it did it again but this time I found the problem; transmission fluid was leaking out of the bell housing onto the y-pipe. I did my research and come to find out it is most likely the front pump seal that got soft from overheating. So my buddy and I drop the transmission and replace the seal. Put it all back together and everything seems great.
Another week goes by and we have driven the Ex fairly extensively around town and even took a couple short day trips and everything is great. Then as we are turning onto an on ramp to get on the highway I give it gas to speed up and all of a sudden the RPMs climb like it dropped into neutral. I had enough momentum that I got over onto the shoulder and started to check thing under the hood. Looked like I was low on trans fluid; ok so I added a quart. Put it in "D" and still nothing. Then I try "1", "2", "R" and they all work fine.
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I got a small rust spot on a corner of the hood of my car (5 months old). The 3 year/36,000 mile paint warranty included with the purchase of the Elantra should take care of this, correct? It's small so I was gonna sand it down myself and use a touch-up pen, but now having second thoughts. Should I take it to the dealership instead?
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Picked up my new 2013 Sonata GL 3-weeks ago. Noticed a little surface rust on the front struts when I picked it up and when I was washing it for the first time last week I saw a rust spot where the chrome trim mounts on the hood. I removed the trim and took these photos...
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My 1999 Subaru Legacy has a couple of rust holes in the hood. Unfortunately it's from the back and not easily fixed without welding.
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I have a 2000 Passat with the 2.8L engine. The flexible pipe which is part of the catalytic converter is leaking and the only way to replace it is to replace the catalytic converter. VW refused to assist with the repairs because the car has 96000 mi on it. Emission warranty is 8/80000. How I can replace only the flexible pipe without the cat. because it's still good.
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Would there be much oil in the down pipe if the oil deal was leaking on the turbo? I broke it loose to look at it and not much there, one small area that looked like it has had on it..
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I have a 2004 with the 4.6l. The high pressure hose is leaking from rust. From other posts I have read, it looks like I should rent a puller and remove the pulley first, and then I'll have access to where the hose connects to the pump.
Question: The leak occurred while driving home from vacation today. Went we stopped for gas, we noticed a shutter in the steering. I added about a 1/2 quart to the reservoir - there was still some fluid but foamy. I made it home, and I when I checked again the reservoir was empty.
Should I go ahead and replace the pump while I am at it? I wondering it if could have gotten damaged from low fluid. The truck has 190k so it's not like the pump owes me anything. Will it make any of the repair easier to toss out the pump too?
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As shown in the photo, the metal pipe that runs behind the exhaust manifold is leaking coolant. I can't see the leak (obviously), but I can feel it with my hand (after getting burned on the exhaust!) It is NOT leaking from the right hand clamp of the metal pipe. How do I remove this pipe to inspect? Do I have to remove the exhaust to get to it, or simply remove the right side clamp and some bolts?
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I noticed liquid leaking from the area between the B exhaust pipe and the muffler. The B exhaust pipe is simply the long exhaust pipe that attaches to the A pipe, or center exhaust pipe near the front. I think the leak is water. It's a slow leak/drip that appears to be coming from the gasket. I have a 1.6L 1998 Honda Civic DX.
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I took my 2003 4Runner to the dealer and they sent pictures to toyota. I asked that the customer service rep contact me next time he was in the area. Toyota replaced the frame with me paying a 2500.00 deductible. Now I still have the car and will wait for the recall/class action suit that someone will file to get reimbursed. I hear it was due to the frames being dipped in Alabama.
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On the manifold there is a metal/steel pipe that the heater hose hooks to. That pipe is leaking anitifreeze. It has a small hole in it. Is this pipe replaceable or is it part of the manifold.
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I think I have a clamp or something loose as i am dripping coolant from a black and silver hose/pipe on teh drivers side of the motor.
I can't see any clamps, well clamps i can recognize. how is this black pipe connected to the aluminum pipe? at that seam is where it's leaking.
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I have a 2013 Highlander which I purchased new. about a month ago I noticed rust all over my third row seat when I opened it. As I looked I found rust all under the seats and not only on the third row but also the first and second row also. The car is garage kept and has had no leaks. My dealership tells me it is not a Toyota problem.
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I purchased a 2011 Toyota Rav 4 brand new less than a year and a half ago, and am now noticing that the rims are starting to rust. I am careful to get the road salt off and the car is washed often enough. I also noticed that some of the lug nuts are getting rusty. I am assuming that this should be covered as the car is still under warranty but I'm assuming the dealer will fight me on this. I have also noticed that this seems to be an inherent problem with the Rav 4 as I have seen it on others.
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I have a 2003 Highlander and noticed on when you open the door, there small spot of rust.
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I purchased a new 2015 Toyota Corolla this last June. While installing car seat covers this weekend, I lifted up the backseat and saw a good deal of rust on the hinges and bar that's bolted to the floor. The bolts are shiny and look new. I'm waiting for a call back from the dealership, but wanted to know if this is normal.
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I had a fuel starvation problem because Ford painted the inside of the fuel tank and the paint was coming off and clogging the filters and because I foolishly drove it I now have white smoke spewing out of the tail pipe and an engine miss.
I also explained that I thought that the white smoke did not smell sweet like antifreeze, but rather like diesel. (Hoping that a head gasket replacement is not required.)
I am in the middle of doing the Hutch Mod with frame-mounted Racor PS120-2 jar-type screen pre-pump filter and shortening my previous Harpoon Mod and paint stripping and powerwashing the inside of my tank. Next I plan to move on toward the engine issue.
This evening I was under the van with a flashlight and I noticed that there was a black liquid of some sort at the driver's side exhaust manifold where it joins the up-pipe. At first I was afraid to touch it fearing that it would be carbon-sooted water, but it felt and tasted like carbon-sooted diesel.
And since I haven't started the engine in two weeks and it has been routinely near or over 100F in Sacramento, water would have likely evaporated days ago.
Does it make sense if the fuel starvation problem caused an injector nozzle or its cup to crack or to stick open or to otherwise spew unburnt fuel into the exhaust manifold which would cause the white smoke? Obviously, the unburnt fuel must get from the affected cylinder(s) to the tail pipe somehow, which likely means out the exhaust valve, through the exhaust manifold to the up-pipe and through the turbo to the exhaust pipe and finally to the tail pipe.
See pictures at my CP. I can't figure out how to attach them or put them inline here because it still says I can't do attachments.
What is my next move? Remove the driver's side valve cover? If so, what should I look for, etc.?
2002 E350 extended body van 7.3 diesel auto trans converted to 4x4 (bought new)
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My son bought a 1996 Toyota Corolla as his first car. There is rust developing on the driver's side door panels, mostly around where the decorative strip is. I am wondering what we can do to stem the tide, so to speak. Hopefully, something simple can be done. We can worry about patching the small areas that have already corroded, but he would like to not have it get worse.
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In September 2012, I had all of my brake pads and my front rotors replaced. On at least two occasions since then, I have noticed grinding. I took the car back to be looked at in October and today and in both instances the mechanics couldn't find a thing wrong with the brakes. On Saturday, I was driving more than usual and they were grinding the majority of the time. I'm not sure why this problem comes and goes and whether it increases with use over the day. I find it easier to replicate when coming to a stop in the street rather than in the driveway at a low speed. Is there something I ought to have the mechanics test out? In each of these cases, they have test driven my car, but at the same time, I don't want to tell them "Try driving it for an hour".
I drive a 2007 Toyota RAV4 (about 56000 miles on it) and while I am aware of grinding due to slight rust build-up, that issue usually clears itself up after the first few brakes of the day (I believe that this is a common problem).
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