Toyota - Rav4 :: 1999 - Knocking Noise From Front Passenger Wheel While Accelerating Around Corners
Dec 28, 2015
A couple weeks ago I started noticing a knocking noise coming from my front passenger wheel. It only happens in drive, while accelerating around corners. I checked the CV joints, all are fine, no cracked boots, moved the boots around and can hear the grease in there and no sign of a leak. The strut boot has broken however. Im thinking bad strut bearings? Since the boot is pretty much non existent it might be corrosion build up?
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My 1999 Camry 4-cyc started to leak oil about 3 weeks ago. Puddles of oil on garage floor. The valve cover gasket was replaced last week but I still see new oil on garage floor. The corners of the oil pan on the passenger side were wet with oil. Has any Camry owner experienced replacing the oil pan gasket to fix oil leak? I assume it will be at least $500 for a garage to drop the oil pan to replace the pan gasket. Is it a sealant used to form a gasket or is it a solid piece of gasket?
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It seems to be coming from the front passenger side wheel well area. It's only present during braking and coming to a stop. Seems to be also related to wheel speed. The brake performance doesn't seem to be impacted but it's very embarrassing creaking through a parking lot. The noise doesn't seem to be present on a cold start but once the brakes warm up it really comes to life.
I noticed with both wheels up off the ground that the front passenger side wheel (The side making noise) had more resistance than the drivers side when trying to spin. [URL]...............................
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I drive a 2006 Toyota Corolla, and I've noticed e a squeaky noise coming from my passenger side front wheel. The noise only occurs when I am accelerating the car and driving between 20-40 mph. As I accelerate, the squeaks increase in frequency. They disappear when I brake.
A mechanic replaced the front brake pads two years ago (15,000 miles ago) and also shaved the rotors. About a year later, the squeaks began. I brought the car into a different mechanic at that time (because I moved) and asked them to take a look. They checked the brakes and said they looked good. They attributed the noise to metallic brakes as opposed to ceramic and said the noise would go away in time. The noise has persisted, however, and is becoming more intense.
What is going wrong? Could this be a CV joint or wheel bearing issue? A rotor issue?
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So my girlfriends Toyota RAV4 (2005) is making a medium pitched whirring noise from the passenger side of the engine compartment. (Same area where the serpentine belt and the alternator and all those goods are located.) The battery warning light is on, solid. I have not had a chance to take my DMM and check voltage but I suspect this is going to be a bad alternator since it is a noise consistent with the RPM of the vehicle and visual inspection of the belt is that it is still in one piece, not frayed, flexible, etc. I didn't rev the engine because I didn't want to freak her (the gf) out. My plan is to test voltage before she does anything rash like take it to the dealership which she is already planning on doing but the noise concerns me since noises tend to come from things that move which is probably an indication of some sort of mechanical failure and that tends to cost money. Luckily it's her car.
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I just had new pads and rotors puton and I have a constant squeaking noise coming from the front end where the parts were put.
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Rumble whoosh noise (her description,,, I am currently in another State) coming from my wife's vehicle in the front of the engine compartment. Closer to the passenger side near the water pump. Noise has been present for the last six months, but would always go away after it was warmed up. During winter (In Tucson AZ so never gets too cold), it is worse due to the cold weather. Previously only happened at low RPMs and ended to be worse when turning a corner.Today it occurred also after operation for a quite beyond starting of the vehicle, and is starting to sound like the failure of bearings. Also a burning smell was occurring.Just replaced both the water pump and the alternator, and the front struts. The water pump is not leaking but the old pumps leaks are still evident. The current mechanic trying to troubleshoot is stumped. Motor mounts are getting close to failure, but still appear to not be a problem. CV joints are fine. What to look at?
2006 Toyota Rav4 4X4 4 Cylinder....
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I recently purchased a 1997 Rav4 (3F-SE Engine) with 162000 miles. Overall, it is a great car. The only problem (besides a clutch, which can wait) is that it hesitates/bucks between 1500-2100 rpm while accelerating. This happens usually on a shift change from 1st to 2nd, or while in 2nd and after decelerating to make a turn. This only happens after the engine has warmed up, i.e. the temp gauge is above 25%. When cold, there is no hesitation at all. It just passed emissions testing. Check engine light is off. I recently replaced the TPS (and adjusted it properly), with no change in symptoms. This car does not have a MAF sensor.
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We have an 07 Prius with around 150,000 miles on it.
A couple of weeks ago I noticed a slight knocking noise coming from the passenger front wheel area mainly when I was turning toward the right.
Question.......So when turning to the right, it first seemed to me that the right side would experience a heavier load. However, after further thought and applying some physics the inertia of the car would actually be putting a heavier load on the left side during a right turn. Which is correct?
Just trying to troubleshoot the noise/problem.
#1 when I apply the brakes, the noise doesn't change. I don't think it's brake related.
#2 the noise speeds up with speed, meaning that it's rotational.
#3 The noise does get louder when I am turning right but has know progressed into a constant noise going straight. During a left turn it subsided.
#4 I did take my floor jake and jaked the pass. front wheel up but didn't see anything broken or damaged. I couldn't rotate the tire though.
#5 I also had the tires rotated today and the noise got worse.
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Just recently purchased a used Toyota Camry , i love it. So far everything is great about it, only negative part is that i feel when i turn the steering wheel like a knocking sensation and you can also hear it. Its not the normal grinding sound other people are experiencing. It feels like theres something loose in the steering column. Also while I am driving i can hear like a thump on the right front suspension. normally this sound when i am going over bumbs. Is this like the shocks or something?
Just in case i have a 2008 Toyota Camry SE.
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Just picked up my BMP R32 last week. The car is MINT, only 25k on her, seriously probably one of the cleanest, stock mkiv r32's left. I got every single service record since brand new, all done by a Volkswagen dealer.
Only problem is, a knocking noise has just started to develop, coming from the front passenger area somewhere. It is only noticeable when I brake or let off the gas after accelerating, but definitely more noticeable when braking. At first I thought it was something rolling around in the door, but now it seems clearly suspension related, or a loose bolt or something?
[URL]..........................................
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2004 F-250 FX4 SB 5.4 V8 140k
Issue: rattling/clicking noise from passenger front wheel area at speeds lower than 15MPH, made worse under light braking and/or turns to the right.
Clicking sound is speed dependant.
Spindle? Hub? Balljoint? Sway joint? Rotor Issue?
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So i had air-ride installed into my R 2 weeks ago and lately, i've noticed a knocking/thud noise coming from the front wheel well almost. I feel it more at low speeds and when applying the brakes to come to a stop.
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I drive a 2013 4 door gti. Car has 4k miles. Just last weekend myself and my buddies threw my coils in. FK Silverline X plus'. I am not sure on the measurement from fender to ground but I am a finger gap in the front, and fingertips in the rear. After throwing my coils in on saturday, I had an alignment and the rear camber adjusted. Just today, sunday, while driving home I heard a weird clunking/knocking noise. Previously I drove a mk4 and I know the sound of sway bar on axle and this is not the sound. Its coming from the passenger side front.. and I can sort of feel it through my clutch and brake. After pulling the car over I checked everything I could. wheels are all tight, struts seem fine. The noise occurs continuously even on smooth roads. The knocking/popping is pretty loud and can be heard in cabin. My buddy had mentioned the guys the aligned my car might have forgot to tighten something so I am heading back to the shop first thing in the morning.
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I got my Sonata at 27k, its now at 76k and the cars been great although I had the following issues.
I've noticed sometimes when I startup and shift into reverse the car jerks a bit and its not a smooth transition. However other times the car is very fluid in switching gears. Should I take it in to have a look at it?
Also when I am turning onto a unleveled road (usually a higher road), I notice a creaking/knocking noise coming from the front of the car, also notice it when I reverse into a parking space sometimes.
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I have a 98 Toyota Rav4 4cyl auto. Started to leak water from somewhere into the passenger side floor when it rains. Started out only leaking during heavy/fast rain, but now almost every time. Thought it was the sunroof drain overflow, but no water on the seat cushion, and I reamed both drain tubes out with a stiff wire all the way to the ground and confirmed water runs out the properly. Now I think it's something in the firewall, like maybe the vent air? Tried taking the screen off the cowl and looking down into what I presume are the vent ducts, but didn't find any drain rail. How to fix this? Do I need to take the dash apart?
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I have a 2002 Rav4, no key fob, just use a regular key. The driver's side door started to have unlocking issues and finally wouldn't unlock at all. The other two outside locks - passenger side and back door - were fine and were the only way I was getting into my car for a couple of weeks. Repair shop pulled the driver's side lock, pulled out the non-functioning tumbler, and had it replaced and re-keyed at a lock shop. Got the car back and driver's side door was working great, but that very day, I all-of-a-sudden couldn't unlock the passenger or the back door from the outside using the key (both will lock from the outside using the key). The shop (which I've been going to for a long time) thinks it is just a coincidence that both the other locks stopped working right after fixing the driver's side door, but that makes no sense to me. Is there anything in the driver's side door that could have been disturbed and is now preventing both the other doors from being unlocked from the outside? The repair shop solution is to just pull the other two locks and do the same thing as the driver's side door - pull any bad tumblers and re-key. I just cannot believe that this is a coincidence.
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2003 Toyota RAV4, approx 130K.
A month ago I put a new set of Goodyear tires on my RAV. I drive on the highway 35-40 miles each way to and from work every day. Immediately after the new tires go on, I notice a vibration from the steering wheel at highway speed, above 60 mph. I took the car back to the tire shop (an independent tire shop, not a chain) and asked them to rebalance the tires. They did, and I took the car home. Drive to work the next day, vibration is worse. Next day, my dad and I switch cars so he can take it in. The tire shop says the front end alignment is off, and adjusts it. Small improvement, but vibration is still there.
I took it in for the 3rd time this weekend, and they swap the front and back tires at my request, thinking this might isolate the problem. The shop also checks my struts and says they are ok. (I don't even know what struts are, but apparently they are ok.) Now the vibration has moved out of the steering wheel and is coming from the rear and the floor. It does not happen when I apply the brakes or am on city streets. What this would be? Bad tire or tires? Something else going on altogether? What should I ask them to do?
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It makes knocking noises from all four corners, but mainly, when I make a hard right turn and it knocks it feels like the guts is going to fall out of it. It leaks tremendous amounts of oil from one side of the car to the opposite under the engine, but on checking the oil level, it does not require much topping up. Sometimes when making a hard turn, it's like there is no power steering. After spending copious amounts of money on it, and the problems not going away, the mechanic said to get rid of it. Also, when unlocking the doors manually or by remote, the back left passenger door makes a loud electrical buzzing noise that only started happening after the mechanic fixed the warning lights that kept coming up. That door no longer opens from the outside which means it won't pass a warrant. It was suggested it might be the solenoid? After getting into the car, you can hear a buzzing coming from around the radio area, and I haven't even inserted the key yet. It's such nice looking car and when it drives right, is awesum..
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I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee that, upon starting in the morning, has a knocking noise coming from the front passenger-side wheel area. It only knocks when the car starts moving, and stops once I get up to 15-20 miles per hour. It ONLY does this when the car is cold. The noise does not occur throughout the day, only when I start it each morning. Is it something to do with the wheel bearing, but that does not seem to be the case.???
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Concerning my recently purchased '99 GMC Sierra 1500 2wd 4.8L...
There is a seemingly undiagnosable, not that noticeable, rubbing noise that seems to come from the front passenger wheel - one rub for every revolution of the wheel. It is fairly subtle and can be felt (subtle) in the steering wheel between 30mph and 45mph. I don't think a lot of people would notice it and anyone that did would probably just turn up the radio at this point. After all, this truck has a very solid drive train and runs amazingly smooth for its age and mileage (172K)
Here are the repairs I have made that you might be about to suggest:- New front bearing/ hub assemblies on both sides within the last year. No play in any of the wheels.- New tires from Firestone within last month.- New tie rod ends and alignment. - New rotors, pads, and flex lines on front. Refurbished caliper on passenger side front.- New pads, calipers, and flex lines on rear. (one of the calipers had seized and I thought I had finally found the problem... not.) (one of the flex lines was the wrong part and was rubbing up against the rim... I thought that was the problem... not.)
Here are the things you are about to suggest I check:- Transmission, rear axle bearings, etc checked out by my trusted transmission shop. - Wheel well shields are firmly attached.
Things I haven't yet fixed : tail pipe bracket, evap emission solenoid assembly, blower fan resistor thingy, crappy door latch.
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