Toyota - Rav4 :: 1998 - Water Leakage At Passenger Side While Raining
Jun 3, 2014
I have a 98 Toyota Rav4 4cyl auto. Started to leak water from somewhere into the passenger side floor when it rains. Started out only leaking during heavy/fast rain, but now almost every time. Thought it was the sunroof drain overflow, but no water on the seat cushion, and I reamed both drain tubes out with a stiff wire all the way to the ground and confirmed water runs out the properly. Now I think it's something in the firewall, like maybe the vent air? Tried taking the screen off the cowl and looking down into what I presume are the vent ducts, but didn't find any drain rail. How to fix this? Do I need to take the dash apart?
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I have a 2002 Rav4, no key fob, just use a regular key. The driver's side door started to have unlocking issues and finally wouldn't unlock at all. The other two outside locks - passenger side and back door - were fine and were the only way I was getting into my car for a couple of weeks. Repair shop pulled the driver's side lock, pulled out the non-functioning tumbler, and had it replaced and re-keyed at a lock shop. Got the car back and driver's side door was working great, but that very day, I all-of-a-sudden couldn't unlock the passenger or the back door from the outside using the key (both will lock from the outside using the key). The shop (which I've been going to for a long time) thinks it is just a coincidence that both the other locks stopped working right after fixing the driver's side door, but that makes no sense to me. Is there anything in the driver's side door that could have been disturbed and is now preventing both the other doors from being unlocked from the outside? The repair shop solution is to just pull the other two locks and do the same thing as the driver's side door - pull any bad tumblers and re-key. I just cannot believe that this is a coincidence.
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So my girlfriends Toyota RAV4 (2005) is making a medium pitched whirring noise from the passenger side of the engine compartment. (Same area where the serpentine belt and the alternator and all those goods are located.) The battery warning light is on, solid. I have not had a chance to take my DMM and check voltage but I suspect this is going to be a bad alternator since it is a noise consistent with the RPM of the vehicle and visual inspection of the belt is that it is still in one piece, not frayed, flexible, etc. I didn't rev the engine because I didn't want to freak her (the gf) out. My plan is to test voltage before she does anything rash like take it to the dealership which she is already planning on doing but the noise concerns me since noises tend to come from things that move which is probably an indication of some sort of mechanical failure and that tends to cost money. Luckily it's her car.
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I have a 1998 Dodge Dakota in very good shape. I bought it from my brother who has owned it since 2000. I drove the truck from Reno, NV to southeast Alaska where I live, and all along the pacific coast. It rained a LOT and I noticed pooling of water on the floor at my feet, soaking the carpet completely and pooling up. I thought I was tracking water in the truck from my boots. BUt I have had it here in Alaska for 7 months now, and it is still HORRIBLE! It rains here all the time and I can't get rid of the puddles. There are no plugs in the floor for drainage and I can't figure out where it is coming in. The windshield looks good, and the door seals look good also. I cannot figure out where the water is getting in so I can stop it. THe truck is going to rot and rust if I can't fix it! And here's the thing, the water is pooling on BOTH sides of the floor-passenger and driver. I am baffled. No one ever sits on the passenger side so its not coming from boots! there is no way for water to flow from one side of the floor to the other.
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Leaking A/C water onto the passenger floor problem. If you’ve gone on a long trip and ended up with a pool of water on your passenger floor, you know what I’m talking about. It seems to be a common problem, especially if you live somewhere hot and have to keep your A/C on the coldest and strongest setting nonstop like I do. This is a very simple job and takes about 20-30 minutes.
All you need is: duct tape, a wire hanger, a few towels, and a wet/dry shop vac. (If you don’t own a shop vac, borrow one or rent one if you must, but it is a good investment if you don’t own one already).
Step 1: Remove the plastic cover under the dashboard. This piece just pops off, there are no screws, so give it a good tug down and outward and it should come off easily.
Step 2: Once you have that piece out of the way, reach up to the left corner of the carpet and pull it back, you don’t have to pull it very far to see the A/C drain tube.
Step 3: Pull the tube out from the hole on the firewall, and look at the end. If there’s water dripping your clog probably isn’t that bad. Take the wire hanger, bend it straight, and stick it as far up the tube as you can, wiggling it around and pulling it out to wipe off any gunk on the wire. Try to reach the metal pipe that the other end of the rubber tube is connected to if you can, but do NOT pull the rubber hose off the pipe, it will be hard to get back on. Also, be sure to have your towels ready because you may have up to a liter of water pour out the end when you unclog it.
Step 4: Turn your A/C on (make sure the car is fully on) and wait a minute. Look at the end of the drain tube. If it is dripping water quickly, and you don’t see much water coming from anywhere else under the dash, then you are done. I would suggest to still continue with the next steps just in case, but it’s up to you. If, like mine, the tube is fairly dry and you still see water dripping from further towards the inside of the dash, then your clog is further up the pipe and not in the tube itself. In this case you’ll need the shop vac.
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My 2002 Sienna has water pooling in the front passenger side. We pulled up some of the front carpet and it's soaking beyond the passenger side. We need to find out where the water is coming from. It correlates to rain, but we tried hosing the passenger door and front windshield but didn't see any water coming in.
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I have a Toyota Aygo which leaks water into the passenger side foot space, so that when it rains, about 2 inches of water collects where the passengers feet would be.
It's been in to the dealer three times to fix, they replace the door seals but it seems to me that the rain isn't coming in via the door or window, but up through the floor somehow, ie seems to come up through the carpet suggesting it's coming in from somewhere else!
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My husband has water on the rear floor board on the passenger side of the car when it rains. This happens if we drive or park the car during a heavy rain.
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After three repairs of a leaky sunroof that produces a puddle of water on my floorboard and a wet headliner I was told by the dealership and the toyota consumer complaint department that the leak was due to debris in the overflow tube. Their solution for me "don't park your RAV 4 under trees. They tell me it isn't a warranty issue or a design flaw. How can that not be a flaw? Shouldn't they sell them with a disclaimer stating if you live in the country and don't park in a garage your sunroof just might leak? Wait for it..............don't drive your car outside if it is going to rain!!!!
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Clear water comes into car my Corolla 2011 on drivers side and both the passenger and drivers rear floor panels. I checked and not coming from the body. Think it's from A/C but it's a lot of water. Front passenger side is bone dry. Looks like it may be coming from the center console and spreading out. Could the A/C evaporator drain be plugged. If so where do I find the hose?
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I have a 1998 Toyota Rav 4 with apporximately 140,000 miles. When I fill the gas tank the check engine light comes on, the engine runs rough (like a misfire). Diagnostic code comes back a "lean mixture,bank 1". When the tank reaches approximately 3/4 of a tank the light goes out and the engine runs smooth and fine. Then, when the tank reaches just belwo hal a tank the light once again comes on and starts running rough again. Have drained the tank, used dry gas, Startron to counter the ethonal etc. Nothing seems to work.
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I had the timing belt, water pump and thermostat replaced on my '97 RAV4. The next morning while braking at a red light I heard a rapidly repeating sound that sounded like metal on metal. The car never made that sound again but now I'm hearing a noise coming from the passenger side of the engine (timing belt side). When the engine is cold I don't hear it. After driving a while its starts, then once the engine warms up it generally goes away (except for this morning which was the coldest morning since this started, temps in the 40s).
I was only hearing the noise when the car was stopped either in drive or reverse (reverse sounded louder) if I lightly let up on the brake pedal (there's no pulsing in the brake pedal). Once under way the sound goes away. This morning it was making the sound virtually every time I came to a stop (once the car warmed up) even with my foot firmly on the brake pedal. I recorded the sound Saturday while standing still with the car in drive and my foot slightly easing up on the brake pedal. The sound starts at the 20:30 mark, what it could be?
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I have an 00 Monte, it leaks when it is raining, after several days of hard rain, an electrical buzzing noise occurs. It reamins on consistently when the car is off, when in drive the noise is intermittent. Passenger side . I have pulled out and replaced fuses, but buzzing persists. It corrects itself after about 3 days.
I am assuming that the wires are getting wet somewhere. I cannot trace the leak up past the glove box. How to protect wiring when you can't pin point or stop a specific leak. How to shroud the components in the dash and along the post? Water comes in along post and also behind the glove box.
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98 Rav4 (130,000 miles) starts fine, idles fine, runs fine for 30 seconds then the accelerator no longer has any effect. I can put the pedal to the floor, but there is no gas getting to the engine, it will idles but doesn't go. Until it warms up to operating temperature and then it is just fine.
This gets worse the more times I stop for an hour then try to go again - it is better when it is starting from being completely cold.
The check engine light does not come on, two different mechanics have tested it - no codes are produced - the computer thinks everything is just fine. One of the mechanics called his buddies at a Toyota garage in California but none of the 12 mechanics there could figure it out.
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I recently got the EGR system in my 1998 Rav4 working (replaced VSV) after driving with it non-functioning for several years. Without the system functioning, the engine ran great, but fuel efficiency suffered. Now, when the engine is warm only, the engine knocks and lugs between 1000 and 2000RPMs. This usually occurs right when I shift into 2nd gear. There are no engine trouble codes.
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Discovered a water leak on the A pillar driver's side (note right-hand drive)? We had a down pour today and my car has never exhibited this before. I got in my car today and noticed that there was a wet spot at the top and a wet spot under and to the side of the tweeter. This seemed to be quite soaked as pushing on it you could feel it was wet. I checked around the A-pillar and it goes up a little into the roof lining (about an 1/8th of the way on the top of the door ). Today , I heard a small gush of water, but that was about it. The car was on level ground. How do I take off the A-pillar so I can see if something has jammed up or something?
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2003 Hyundai Accent 4 door. Well its been raining here in Portland Oregon non stop and this morning I went to get in my car and smelled a mildew odor so I took out the drivers floor mat and the carpet was soak. Then I laid back the carpet and that grey spongy covering thats under the pedals was soaked to the bone like a sponge.
I did a test with a water by putting the hose on top of the roof of the accent and turning it on full bore and nothing leaked in the car. I sat in their for a good 5 minutes with the hose blaring down the windshield and door sides. I even took a jack and lifted the car up too see if there was any cracks or a rusty hole underneath but nothing. So Im completely stumped on this I do have A/C and the drain hose is clear since I have been using my defrosters and the A/C pump kicks on.
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I can't seem to figure it out. I've been having a water leak in my gti. Here's the facts
-rear drivers side floor is soaked wet, nowhere else.
-I pulled up the carpet and carpet pad and wiped the floor dry.
- poured water in sunroof drains and didn't see any new moisture, water ran out of the drains on all 4 corners.
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I have a 2013 Rav4. I can adjust my left mirror but the right side is inoperable.
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A couple weeks ago I started noticing a knocking noise coming from my front passenger wheel. It only happens in drive, while accelerating around corners. I checked the CV joints, all are fine, no cracked boots, moved the boots around and can hear the grease in there and no sign of a leak. The strut boot has broken however. Im thinking bad strut bearings? Since the boot is pretty much non existent it might be corrosion build up?
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I am getting what seems to be a leak from around the cv axle near the transmission on the passenger side. It only does it after driving and stops shortly after the car stops. How do I check the fluid on the automatic transmission.
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