I recently got the EGR system in my 1998 Rav4 working (replaced VSV) after driving with it non-functioning for several years. Without the system functioning, the engine ran great, but fuel efficiency suffered. Now, when the engine is warm only, the engine knocks and lugs between 1000 and 2000RPMs. This usually occurs right when I shift into 2nd gear. There are no engine trouble codes.
View 8 RepliesMy V8 is "sputtering" between 1000 - 2000 RPMs. Not only can you feel it, but you can see the tachometer bounce up and down as well. No problems accelerating or putting the engine under load - it's only between that RPM range where there seems to be hesitation. The car is not giving any fault codes, and I just recently had all plugs and coils changed. (The car ran great for 2000 miles following the plug and coil change.) It started on a road trip, and I took it to the local dealer. They thought it was bad gas. (I've since run several tank fulls through it...)
My suspicion is a mass air flow meter beginning to go, but until it triggers a fault, I can't say for sure. The dealer wants to check the MAFs values and to do a fuel tank pressure test to see if it's the fuel pump. I do have the Real Driver warranty, but they will not cover investigative costs. I'm not too excited about throwing money to test a bunch of different things.
I have a 1998 Toyota Rav 4 with apporximately 140,000 miles. When I fill the gas tank the check engine light comes on, the engine runs rough (like a misfire). Diagnostic code comes back a "lean mixture,bank 1". When the tank reaches approximately 3/4 of a tank the light goes out and the engine runs smooth and fine. Then, when the tank reaches just belwo hal a tank the light once again comes on and starts running rough again. Have drained the tank, used dry gas, Startron to counter the ethonal etc. Nothing seems to work.
View 1 RepliesMy 2000 Rav4 has 120,000 miles on it- engine timing belt and everything with done at 60,000 miles. About a year after this work, i noticed an engine noise that only shows up when the A/C is on, or the engine is under lots of stress, and only sporadically. It sounds just like a thin metal blade being stuck in a fan- and it's very loud. It disappears immediately after I let up off the gas, and does not always reappear when I reapply the gas.
It is consistent though in that it starts close to the 3000 rpm range. I've checked for interference on anything with the belts and cooling fans, but don't see anything there. Other than the noise, engine has been working great. Also checked the motor mounts, they seem okay. The only conclusion I can draw is that something is interfering with a rotating part, maybe by the flex of the engine under stress, but I can't point a finger to anything.
I have a '00 RAV4 I bought from my Mother. It was having loss of engine power and it would stall while driving and then turn off while driving. The car was taken to 4 mechanics, non could figure it out changed the sensor air fuel ....worked then did it again sent to the Toyota dealer changed the same part ....the problem seemed to be fixed....I've had for a couple of weeks and the problem came back...what I notice was a low idle, loss of power....then the car started stalling while driving, the rpm idle dropped to 0 and car shut down took to mechanic said the throttle body was dirty . They cleaned it they said that it fixed the problem ....2 weeks later it happens again to 2x .....I don't know what to do ...
View 1 RepliesI have a 1998 Toyota Camry , whenever I start it after its been sitting for 3 or more hours the rpm's shoot up to2,000 and stay there for 3-4 minutes straight, if I hit the gas they don't go down, if I turn my heat on they come down a little bit.
View 3 RepliesReconditioned engine 5,000 miles ago. Last maintenance check at dealer found nothing wrong. 2000 Honda CRV.
View 4 RepliesI'm worried about my beloved 02 Toyota Rav4. She's been a great car, we've driven all over the continent, never had a mechanical problem. Lately, particularly on humid days, my cruise control will stop working mid-trip and at the same time the RPMs start running high, nearly twice what they usually are. It lasts until I get home, next time I start her she's fine. The guys at the shop never find anything. The engine control module was replaced last year under an "extended warranty."
View 6 RepliesI have a 96 Rav4. When I am driving on the freeway it will get stuck at 3000 RPMs for a good 20 miles. It doesn't do it all the time, but it does it a lot. The car will only be going 50 mph, but its stuck at high RPMs. The mechanic has no idea what is going on.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2005 Chrysler 300C ( original owner )Mileage 172,000 and I take care of my car. I use full synthetic oil and change it every 5000 miles. I noticed a hesitation between 1000 and 2000 RPM's. It disappears after 2000 RPM's. The Chrysler dealer kept doing repairs and claimed the problem was gone and it is still there. The dealer did a full tune up, induction service and also replaced the EGR valve, gasket and seal. The problem gets worse in higher mountain altitudes.
View 3 RepliesSo lately my 2000 Jetta GLS hasn't been running that smooth I can tell when I'm changing gearing and when I start the car and the car idles around 1000 RPMs. I think it may be the engine miss firing because some times I can feel the car shaking but I have no check engine light. Lucky... Also the coolant is leaking idk what the exact problem is but everywhere I go there is a puddle of coolant under my car.
View 2 RepliesI leased a 2015 Honda CR-V AWD LX on March 11, 2015. The following day I noticed a rough vibration/shuddering/chattering that appeared to be coming from the transmission when the rpms ranged between 1,000 and 2,000. The roughness was evident at any speed (mpgs) when the tachometer reading was between the previously stated range. The service technician reported feeling the same roughness, but noted that the problem was characteristic of the CRV with a CVT transmission. On Tuesday March 17, I went back to the dealer and discussed the problem with the service manager. He also stated that he was aware of that particular problem and that it was peculiar to the 2015 CRV with the CVT transmission. He took my car for a test drive and admitted feeling the chattering. It was also evident to me as I sat in the passenger’s seat. He then took out another new CRV and it too exhibited the same characteristics.
View 18 RepliesI have a 98 Toyota Rav4 4cyl auto. Started to leak water from somewhere into the passenger side floor when it rains. Started out only leaking during heavy/fast rain, but now almost every time. Thought it was the sunroof drain overflow, but no water on the seat cushion, and I reamed both drain tubes out with a stiff wire all the way to the ground and confirmed water runs out the properly. Now I think it's something in the firewall, like maybe the vent air? Tried taking the screen off the cowl and looking down into what I presume are the vent ducts, but didn't find any drain rail. How to fix this? Do I need to take the dash apart?
View 7 Replies98 Rav4 (130,000 miles) starts fine, idles fine, runs fine for 30 seconds then the accelerator no longer has any effect. I can put the pedal to the floor, but there is no gas getting to the engine, it will idles but doesn't go. Until it warms up to operating temperature and then it is just fine.
This gets worse the more times I stop for an hour then try to go again - it is better when it is starting from being completely cold.
The check engine light does not come on, two different mechanics have tested it - no codes are produced - the computer thinks everything is just fine. One of the mechanics called his buddies at a Toyota garage in California but none of the 12 mechanics there could figure it out.
I have a 2000 b5 wagon with a 2.8 5spd with 200k on it .... Its slammed on coils and i get this squealing in reverse i dont know what it is i just rebuilt the front end ie control arms... also have a nasty vibration from 1000rpms to 3000 rpms could that be engine mounts/snub mount?
View 7 RepliesMy 2001 BMW 325Ci has an occasional "surging" idle problem. When coming to a stop or at idle, the engine will rev between 500 and 1000 rpm's. Sometimes it will correct the problem and idle normally, or keeps surging until it eventually stalls. When restarted it works fine. Tried fuel injector treatment, fuel stabilizer treatment, and replaced thermostat. Still surges about 50% of the time. Had it to a dealer, and computer says its running fine.
View 1 RepliesMy 2000 Toyota RAV 4 has had an oil leak problem for some time. So far, we have just been checking the oil frequently and adding oil as needed. The problem seems to be getting worse. I have taken it to more than one person and have received more than one recommendation. The car does have 244,000 miles on it so I realize that it would use more oil than a newer car. The last time the oil was checked it was after the car had been driven 136 miles. We added a little over a half quart of oil. Is that extreme? Should I be thinking of getting rid of the car?
View 16 RepliesIOur 2003 suburban often gets a "reduced engine power" displayed by the computer and the RPMs drop to below 1,000. The vehicle will not accelerate and will not go above 1,200 RPMs no matter how much gas it is getting. Flooring the gas pedal has absolutely no effect and the truck continues on its merry way at about 20 miles per hour.
I have been told by various amateurs that it is the gas lines or electronics that regulate the gas flow. The reduction in engine power seems to happen randomly, but most often if the vehicle is idling for too long (and I'm sure the 110 degree heat doesn't work). I can get it fixed much quicker if I know what the problem may be.
Car is a 2000 Corolla CE.
When going at the desired speed (say 40mph) and there is lots of coasting room, I just let go off the accelerator and the car basically coasts. The engine RPM drops from 1600-1800 down to 900-1000 and it actually can coast a long way. Sometimes, I need to go faster (if I'm initially started at a slower speed) and when I press the gas pedal slightly, the tachometer shows the engine rpm jumps from the coasting 900-1000 to 1600-1800.
Is the tachometer (add on by ScanGuage) reporting it correctly? Is this a bad form of acceleration for the engine?
My 2000 alero was WAY low on oil so I added a quart then drove for about 45 mins at 40 mph the car seemed fine. the following morning when I went to start it the car turned over but would not start when it finally started the engine knocks and it is putting out a lot of white exhaust. obviously I need to see a mechanic but what might be wrong. my neighbor said one of the cylinders isn't doing what ever it is supposed to do he said it passed a compression test but I don't know what that means...
View 3 RepliesI have a 1997 Saturn, and have noticed for the past couple of months that when the car is idling at a stoplight, the engine seems to rev or almost skip a little bit. The RPMs go from about 1000 down to 500 for a couple of seconds, and this will happen once every 10 seconds or so. Otherwise, it runs fine...but this is happening more and more frequently than it used to.
I had the transmission rebuilt over the summer and its still under warranty. What might be causing this?