Toyota - RAV4 :: 2005 - Squealing When Brake Applied?
Jun 25, 2011
I have a 2005 Rav4 Sport. I've been taking it to the same mechanic for years and have never had a problem. After my last visit (65K tune-up and new brakes), the car squealed when applying brakes driving forward or in reverse. The mechanic took it back, changed brakes and there was a small improvement. They next took it to Toyota who changed brakes and rotors and there was a bigger improvement. Now the squeal only happens when reversing out of a parking space while turning the wheel. It is back at the mechanics. They said they've taken it apart and can't find anything that would cause the problem.
View 9 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2012 Rav4 and I have been hearing a creaking/groaning sound coming from the front left brake when I apply it lightly. It gets worse as it heats up. It sounds exactly like the brake in this youtube video.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2002 Toyota Rav 4 which just hit about 58,000 miles. Never really had too many problems until about a week ago. For a while, one of the brake lights wasn't working and just a few days ago, both of them went out. The regular tail-lights work as do the reverse lights, just not the brake lights.
View 2 Replies
Looking at buying an 05 rav4. Everything looked great until I checked the tranny fluid which was grey/pink. It was a trade so no service records but a very clean carfax. I really like the car and it shifts fine including accelerating up a hill. I'm hoping it just needs changing. I'm in need of replacing my 99 CRV with 230k and needs a new head.
View 18 Replies
2005 rav4 tire pressure light is on. The tires are over size. All are up to pressure (29lbs) It says 29 on the door. I can reset the pressure light but it comes back on.
View 9 Replies
I have a 2009 RAV4 and it has only 40,000 miles. Three weeks ago, I took it to a local Toyota dealership for oil change and tire rotation. The service manager told me that it needs the drive belt to be replaced and the oil in the four-wheel drive system needs to be replaced. I accepted his recommendation and have the job done. After paid almost $700, I took the car back. The next week, the engine lost power and did not respond to the gas pedal for a few seconds while I was driving on the highway. This problem occurred on and off while I was driving.
In addition, the brake light was on after I had the car fully parked and the car key was out. I took it back to the dealership. After diagnosed, the service manager told me that the "brake switch" has gone bad and it caused the engine lost power because it has a "break safe system". After paid about $130 to replace the "brake switch", the problem of engine lost power and won't respond to the gas pedal was gone. The next week, however, the engine light was on and the warning light of four-wheel drive was on. I took the car back to the dealership again. After diagnosed, this time they said the O2 sensor has gone bad and it caused the engine light on and the four wheel warning sign on. I took the car back again. So I paid another $450 to have the O2 sensor replaced. Now the car seems to be running normal.
View 19 Replies
In September 2012, I had all of my brake pads and my front rotors replaced. On at least two occasions since then, I have noticed grinding. I took the car back to be looked at in October and today and in both instances the mechanics couldn't find a thing wrong with the brakes. On Saturday, I was driving more than usual and they were grinding the majority of the time. I'm not sure why this problem comes and goes and whether it increases with use over the day. I find it easier to replicate when coming to a stop in the street rather than in the driveway at a low speed. Is there something I ought to have the mechanics test out? In each of these cases, they have test driven my car, but at the same time, I don't want to tell them "Try driving it for an hour".
I drive a 2007 Toyota RAV4 (about 56000 miles on it) and while I am aware of grinding due to slight rust build-up, that issue usually clears itself up after the first few brakes of the day (I believe that this is a common problem).
View 6 Replies
My 1987 toyota celica brake pedal is going to the floor when I apply the brakes but not all the time,i checked the pads and shoes they are still good i also bled the brakes, I am thinking it is the master cylinder or maybe the master cylinder needs to be bled.
View 1 Replies
A few months ago I did some work to my rear wheels. I replaced the drums, shoes, springs, etc., and (though this probably isn't important) the strut assemblies. All is well. Within the last few weeks, my right rear wheel has been squeaking and squealing when I brake and just today it is so bad I am afraid to drive it. It even started to squeak (just slightly) while I drive after I let off the brakes. I just pulled the drum off and it all looked fine. I did not see any metal rubbing the drum nor did I see any unusual wear on the shoes. What the noise could be?
View 5 Replies
The driver side brake light does not come on when you apply the breaks but the light comes on when you turn them on.
View 2 Replies
My 05 Avalon Touring rear brake sequel quite loudly when reversing any time of the day, after that no sound throughout the whole day going forward or reverse. It only happens if the car is parked for a while, as in 5 hours or more. I checked out the breaks and the pads still have quite of life left in them, and the rotors are still in great condition. I also took them to sears auto center (only place I can actually trust), they said I don't need any brake services for a while and everything is great.
View 2 Replies
Here's my issue, after a full break job my right front brake began to grind. Curiously it wouldn't grind initially after breaking soon after start up. I could go on and slow break for quite a distance, but soon after a hard brake or just slow breaking long enough the grinding begins. I've taken the car back to Firestone three times and even after a few adjustments or cleaning the problem persist... I've starting to feel bad for Firestone and embarrassed to be holding on to this 99 Chevy. I can't continue to drive this small car that sounds like a MTA bus while braking.
But I digress... I did notice, purely by accident (or it may be a mere coincidence), a few times the ABS light came on and during those periods the grinding was less abrasive. This leads me closer to believing the issue is with the caliper.
View 11 Replies
I bought my 06 Corolla LE last week and just started hearing a nasty squeaking sound whenever I applied the brakes. I took it to the dealer today and 4 hours later he calls me and tells me that he had to readjust my back brakes and lube them up and it should be fine..About a half hour into driving the car around town I start hearing this noise again. Now he's telling me to bring back in the morning to see what the issue is.
My question is besides the brake pads and rotors which were checked by another mechanic that said they were good what the hell could be the issue?
View 3 Replies
I have been doing my own brakes for years. I have had some that were not easy to keep from squealing but this one has me wanting to get rid of the car. We have a 2008 Dodge Magnum R/T package. Roughly 38K miles on the car. When the car reached around 10K miles the rear passenger wheel would squeal when you applied the brake. Rotor surface was smooth as glass. I took off the rear rotors only and had them turned. Problem went away for about 5K miles. Then the fronts started squealing.
I replaced the fronts because hte factory did not leave any material to be turned and noted that Dodge glued the pads to the calipers like they would never need to come off. Problem went away for a little while. Then it came back with a vengeance. I replaced the pad material on the fronts with ThermoQuiet pads from Raybestos. Problem is coming back again and now I cannot tell which end of the car it is even coming from because it it so loud. My wife drives this car very carefully. My thought is she is polishing the rotors too smooth and this is our source of noise.
We are at the point of squealing again and I am at my wits end with this. If I light foot it, no noise. If I stop like I think it should be stopped, not killing it, the noise is there. If I stop very quickly about 3 to 5 times in a row the noise is gone for a little while until the pads cool and then it is back even if I am on the same journey.
View 4 Replies
So I have a 2003 Passat wagon. While driving down the road with no brake pressure applied the front right brake makes a squealing noise. As if the caliper doesn't release pressure....what should I do? Any hints?
View 6 Replies
I have a 1962 ford falcon ranchero. The driver side brake light, goes out when brake pressure is applied, but is on when lights are fully on, but even then brake pressure is applied and goes out. Right brake light is fine. And turn signal on right works. But driver side back light goes out when brake pressure is put on and when turn signal is put for left side. Right makes a turn noise left side doesn't. I recently replaced the turn signal switch. So its brand new. But older wires every where else. No cuts anywhere on wires. Fine. And replaced the bulb also.
View 8 Replies
I have a 2008 Toyota Rav4 all wheel drive that has 80,000 miles on it. It's been having a lot of problems lately, namely the water pump. I got it replaced at our local mechanic's about 3 weeks ago and all was fine until I tried to turn on the heat last night. Only cold air blew out and then came on intermittently and then just stopped again. The fan works fine, it's just not blowing hot air. Not sure if this is related to the water pump being replaced? Do I need to flush the heater core? There is no leakage. I am really getting annoyed with all the issues the car has been having lately and don't want to spend a lot more money to fix it at this point. How much would it be to replace the heater core?
View 7 Replies
My 2004 toyota rav4, manual transmission, 70,000 miles has been problem free. Now when i turn the key , nothing, no sound , dead. sometimes the 2nd or 3rd try 'it'll start right up, and run like nothing's wrong. other times will not start at all. 2 hrs later , try it and starts right up,. the battery has been replaced and it changed nothing. The mechanics are stumped and say they can't do anything till the problem repeats itself, and it starts fine, at their garage. I've been stranded and don't want that to happen again. What's wrong? The clutch switch?
View 4 Replies
I have a '05 Corolla with around 80,000 miles on it.I've noticed for the past few weeks that it makes a weird noise when I brake. It's what I would describe as a gurgling or almost groaning sound coming from under the hood. This only happens about every other day, and only when I've slowing pressing the brake to coast to a stop or slowing on a downward slope.
Took it to one mechanic who couldn't duplicate the sound and gave up.The brake pads are relatively new and the sound is definitely not coming from the tires.
View 3 Replies
We have a 2005 Toyota Camry, had it since 30K miles/2008, now has 94K miles. Since we have owned it, the brake pedal feel has not been great, kind of mushy. It is the way this generation Camry's are. It gets driven mostly on fwy, so not much brake use. At 92K miles I changed the front pads and rotors, pads still had 30% left on them. The rotors were somewhat warped. Brake fluid has been gravity flushed every 2 years since 2008, last one in 2012.
Now, the problem is when wife drives it, twice at a lengthy red light, she has noted that the brake pedal "almost" sinks. It did not go to the floor, but the level went lower. The car did not move during this events. With the newer ABS brake systems, on all my three cars, after a full stop, I can push the pedal down further, almost close to the floor. The Camry is the same way, just with a baseline of mushy pedals. My wife only drives one of the other ones (Dodge Caravan,)and has not complained about that one.
The brake fluid level is solid/steady, no leaks at the wheels either.
Now looking at whats involved, seems I can change the master cylinder myself. The question is do I need to? I don't mind paying a mechanic to do a diagnostic too, just not sure what they are going to do. I believe, just as a defensive measure, they will go ahead and change the MC (which then I might as well do it myself). I could also continue to drive it, but don't want to be stupid here.
View 10 Replies
Noticed radio LCD getting distorted. Today my LCD just went wacko, does not show the station number but some square marks and slightly visible compact disks numbers.
View 30 Replies
