Toyota - Prius :: Fumes In Cabin Whenever Use Fan (heat Or AC)
Oct 25, 2015
Our prius is 13 yrs old and the fan of the heat/ac broke. We had it replaced at the dealer and also had them replace the cabin airfilter. Since then, whenever we use the fan (heat or AC), we've been getting fumes in the car, a gas smell (even when there are no cars in front of us, so it's not from other cars). We brought it back to the dealer twice and they have not fixed it. They found a hole in the exhaust system and replaced the muffler etc. My questions:
1) Is there a way to measure the air quality in the cabin and find out what fumes are coming in and how dangerous they are?
2) What could it be and how can we finally get it fixed.
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I am getting fumes in my 1990 4Runner SR5 6 cyl. I believe them to be exhaust or oil burning, not fuel. The condition does NOT exist when the windows are closed or when the fresh air vent is open or closed (recirculate).The fumes exist in the cab only when I open a window (driver side), and is mitigated some when I open the fresh air vent. This may mean that the leak is not coming through the ventilation system. What could be causing this?My mechanic says it is worn valve cover gaskets, dripping oil onto exhaust system and finding its way into the cab, it does leak oil. This may be true, but how are the fumes getting into the cabin the first place? The fumes came on suddenly, after a rear window repair at the shop - unrelated?The vehicle has been inspected by a muffler shop, no issues with the exhaust or manifold system.The fumes are inscrutable, not strong enough to easily detect, but persistent exposure gives me a headache and dizzy feeling, and then I get polluted enough, that I cannot really smell it anymore, hard to trouble shoot.Interior smells of exhaust, even when parked.?
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I have a 2010 with 5k miles - bought <4 mos.
Last week, I started noticing a petroleum smell in the cabin. I've also had trouble with the inside windshield. When I tried it wipe it, it just smeared. Finally, I used some cleanser and it's clear. It took several applications to work.
I read in the Gen II forums about a loose oil filter cap. I checked mine today. I was able to turn it about 1/2 inch. Now, I'm getting headaches after I drive for more than 15 minutes or so. I've tried switching the circulation but I can't tell which way is better.
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I have a 1996 Volvo 960 station wagon which I love dearly. It's been a wonderful car, however something new has occurred that has me quite concerned. Whenever I turn on the heater, I smell gas fumes. This doesn't occur when the A/C is working or when I turn the temperature dial beyond the numbers to the red mark. I understand this is a different heat source than the regular heater. When I took my car in to the dealer for its 150,000 miles checkup I told them about this problem. They experienced it, but couldn't find the source of the challenge. They want me to bring it in again and keep it overnight so they have a lot of time to decipher the source of the problem.
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Well I started smelling Gas fumes in the cabin of my 11 GLS. The smell was intermittent for about a month now. Then last weekend it started getting bad. I found it only smelled when pulling fresh air through the HVAC, so it had to be under the hood. Pulled the engine cover to find the foam backing was soaked with gas. Started the car and could see the Hard fuel line dripping.
I saw from other post on the forum that this tube has one time use fitting on both ends and that a special tool is needed to torque the fittings. Dropped it off at the dealer yesterday and they are replacing the line today.
I tell you all this because the Dealer said that their records show my car had the short block replaced at 24000 miles. When replaced they probably didn't torque the line correctly causing it to leak.
The question I have is, Should I be more or less worried about the bottom end of this engine now that I know it has been replaced? The car has 44000 miles on it now.
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My mom has a 2000 Passat 1.8T Sedan. For the last six months the car has the distinct smell of engine fumes in the cabin. The smell becomes more prevalent whenever the fan is running (A/C or not). She has constantly been back and forth to the dealer but to no avail. The smell is there are idle or just driving around and requires a window to be opened for fear of passing out.
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I have been getting exhaust in my car cabin since last fall. It is worst when I first start up the engine. Once I get driving, it's not so bad. Switching off the heat or recirculating the air does nothing to change things. I used a CO detector in the cabin and the alarm didn't go off, but it still worries me that I might be breathing in carbon monoxide. And none of the shops have been able to diagnose it, let alone fix it. The first shop installed a new 'flex pipe'. The dealer thinks it's coming from a gasket near the flex pipe. The exhaust manifold is not cracked. A muffler shop said there was no leak. Is it possible that exhaust is somehow getting mixed into the air via a faulty valve or vent?
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After I start the car, warm up a bit then drive, there are exhaust fumes that get into the cabin as you can smell them.
It's happening more often now. I have spoken to my Phaeton tech who said that the car has a sensor that goes off and shuts down external air if it notices exhaust uses getting in.
I have been hearing a little bit of road noise on the driver side so I'm thinking some fumes are coming in from the door seal (although it looks fine).
Sometimes it's bad enough that you have to open the windows or you will feel sick. It passes within 5 minutes or so and the car is fine after that. It only happens right after ignition for a few minutes.
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About two years ago, I noticed the smell of exhaust fumes in the cabin of my 2000 Honda Civic any time the vents were set to pull air from outside the cabin. Switching the vents to recirculate would prevent the fumes. Looking under the hood, I found the exhaust manifold was cracked, so I replaced it along with the catalyic converter (actually one piece in this model) and two O2 sensors. Since the replacement, the problem with exhaust fumes remains. I have asked my mechanic to look at this a couple of times, and he could not find the cause. What to try next to diagnose the problem. We use the car frequently, and just have to leave the vents set on recirculate. This becomes an issue on rainy, humid days when recirculate causes the windows to fog.
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I have been having an issue with exhaust fumes in my 13 GT (16,000 miles on it). I am positive its from the exhaust. Its definitely the "rotten egg" smell, not raw gasoline. I don't hear any leaks though.
It only happens when going up a hill when the engine is under more load than usual or under heavy acceleration. I am going to call the dealer about it and have them look at it.
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My 2007 Prius has stopped producing cabin heat; the blower fan is working. I have no dash warning indicators. I am in an area where the are no Toyota dealers and need to drive 160 miles to home and shop. It has just turned cold. Why and if I am ok to drive to the shop?
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Newly acquired 2002 Accord.
At idle and while at a stop, the cabin receives a heavy dose of exhaust fumes (nope, not from the auto in front of me - I'm often alone at stop lights/signs)... what is the most likely culprit?
This did not seem to occur until AFTER I had the timing belt (package) replaced...coincidence
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I have a 2000 Ford Focus ZTS with about 135,000 miles on it with a fume problem. Once it's warm, I'm noticing what smells like exhaust fumes in the cabin when stopped or at low speed (not at highway speed.) It runs perfectly otherwise. I took it in a few months ago (before I noticed the correlation with engine temp), and the mechanic could not replicate the problem, and he said there was no exhaust leak, I now suspect this is because he only tested it cold.
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First background: G2 car has 215,000 mi and recently got P1121 scan code, so I replaced the coolant control valve. that's when high coolant temp and no cabin heat started.
on CCV top nipple connected to hose that had a dot on it and hose goes under inverter cover on right, next nipple down went to hose slightly to left of first hose, bottom hose goes to thermus can. initially ran car in diag mode with high heat, no heat in cabin.
so I got a Autel 519 scan code reader and I see now that the only code is a P0505 (idle air control malfunction)
taking car down my road for short test run, I turn off cabin heat completely and watched the ECT. after a while it climbs to around 220, then while engine is running quickly goes to 245F then 260F. At that point in time (around 245F) the high temp indicator lights up, temp stayed at 260ish so I return home. With car in park, cabin heat off - the temp returns back down to 220F. if I rev the engine temp again climbs.
I have gone through all suggestions, open radiator bleed valve, manually 'pumped' coolant hoses, turned on/off high heat in cabin and finally with car off removed and jumped the CHS multiple times for about 20secs.
Have purged the coolant system over period of days and coolant appears to be full as level is near top of radiator cap, no bubbling, no gurgling.
However 2 mentioned problems continue... I am starting to suspect coolant thermostat but it would seem strange that it would go at precisely the same time as coolant control valve.
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My 06 prius takes a very long time to provide heat to the cabin. In temps below 20 F it can take 20 minutes. Today in 16 F weather the red triangle came on, followed by a problem banner, followed by a thermostat symbol. The triangle and symbol turned on a off a couple of times over a 5 minute span. I had been driving the car from a cold start for about 15 minutes when this happened. The car did start to produce some, but not a lot, of heat at about 20 minutes into the drive. I was also forced to use the defroster intermittently for the first 15 minutes (blew only cold air). After parking the car for 20 minutes I drove 20 minutes home with no triangle or thermostat symbol. Most of the way home I had sufficient heat.
I do have the front blocked with pipe insulation. I have owned my 06 prius for over a year and it has 257,000 on it.
Could the thermostat and triangle be caused by a low engine temp? If so would a stuck thermostat be a potential culprit?
Can I assume that if my car is blowing cold air when I am asking for heat that the engine is not over heating?
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Can I use the remote climate control switch to heat the cabin during cold mornings as well as cool the cabin during hot summer days?
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My 2002 chevy venture does not provide any heat from the cabin air system..The engine reaches proper driving temperature normally.Can't heat the cabin or get any modulation of cabin temp when using A/C.
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I took the 2008 Santa Fe Limited into the dealer for no control over heat in cabin. It turned out to be a air mixing valve actuator failure. Since the car had 60714 miles on it I needed to convince the dealer, since this is a common failure, that Hyundai should stand behind it. Since it failed before I brought it in, it failed before the 60k mark. The dealer supplied the part and I the labor.
Before I brought it in I replaced the thermostat. An old school problem fix for insufficient heat. That did nothing. Upon disassembly i found it very difficult to get at. You need a lot of patients to do this task and reversible wrists and elbows due to its location.
Also, in looking up the control system in the Factory Repair Manual I discovered this Limited heat/AC panel has an internal self-diagnosis that you can trigger. It did indeed indicate a faulty actuator. The dealer was not aware of the self-diagnosis facility having not been taught it by Hyundai during training.
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Seems below 20 my car cannot defrost the windows or heat the cabin. It has been 0-10 the last couple days here in SE WI. The coolant temp gauge is straight up right in the middle. Some how coolant isn't flowing through the heater core. Could this be a design failure? It doesn't seem to matter what settings are on dash. I have tried with ac on and off, recirculation on and off, full defrost on, fan on all speeds, have also tried a combination of cracked windows open.
Are other people experiencing this as well? Is a call to the dealer in order?
For ref car is 2014 tdi se with 34,000miles.
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2006 Acura MDX w/160k miles running like new but cabin heat levels began to fall off. Service at dealer (who also performed all vehicles scheduled service) revealed 2 cracked cast iron cylinders in the motor allowing coolant to leak by and not reach the heater core. Leaking coolant fried two catalytic converters and remedy is a used engine replacement and new converters.
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2009 Impala, 6 cyl., 32k miles, with the engine warm and running below 1000 rpm I only get cool air entering the cabin. As soon as I rev up to 1000 rpm and above heat enters the cabin. The coolant level was a little low and I added about 2 cups. I haven't driven it since adding the coolant but I doubt that is an issue. Since the day I bought this vehicle (at about 16k miles) I could detect a whine sound coming from the engine compartment at start up. This may have something to do with this problem, but until just recently the heater did work fine. The A/C works fine. Thinking maybe a water pump?
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