Toyota :: Power Steering Leaking - Replace Return Line And Top Off The Tank?
Oct 20, 2014
Someone stopped by the shop today with a problem with the power steering leaking. I checked it out and the return line from the rack to the pump is rusted through and needs to be replaced. The pressure line looks just as bad and will develop a leak soon too, if not replaced. While chatting the customer revealed that while stuck with no power steering, he put motor oil into the reserve tank because that's all he had. It did get him home. My plan is to replace the pressure line first, then cut the return line below the car (where it can be accessed better). Then use my evacuator.
hooked to the return line from the rack. Start the siphoning and fill the reserve tank with the proper fluid to flush everything out. I figured that it would flush the reserve tank, pump, pressure line, and rack. Then replace the return line and top off the tank. Will I have to have the engine running while I flush, and do I need to work the steering wheel left and right too.
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New to me early 99 (4/98) f350 7.3 6 speed. Truck started acting up a few days after I bought it. Return line at fuel bowl was leaking, so started there and found a bad seal on the Fpr (unrelated to the fuel leak due to disentegrated compression sleeve). Fast forward through a bunch of parts swapping that still resulted in miserable lift pump pressure readings, I pull the sending unit out of the tank, expecting to find a plugged screen.
Well, there was in fact a plugged screen... Attached to the bottom of an in-tank pump. How did that get there?!? Everything I've read says there should only be a pickup tube??? Should I get a new sending unit from a junkyard and do the hutch mod or???
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My HPOP was leaking so I pulled it our last weekend along with the fuel bowl and put all new seals in. All my previous leaks are sealed but now this stupid fuel bowl is being a major PIA.
The return line coming off the FPR will not stop leaking! It was slowly dripping when I first replaced the bowl and I thought the leak was between the fuel bowl and FPR housing. I ordered new rings and put it back together.... still leaking.
I wrapped a towel around the fuel fitting and realized that is were the leak is actually coming from. I went to the parker store today and got 3 new 60VL5 sleeves. The first one tore while sling over the fuel line (I was using 2cycle oil as lubricate). The second one leaked even worse.
In a desperate attempt to stop the leak, I slid the sleeve onto the fuel line as far back as it would go. I inserted the fuel line into the bowl and then put a thin coat of rtv on the exposed fuel line. I slid the sleeve over the rtv and then put a light coat of the outside of the sleeve. I tightened the nut up and am waiting for things to dry before trying again.
Why is this fitting giving me such a hard time? I've pulled the FPR housing and it is not cracked so I don't know what the deal is.
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I have a 2003 Santa Fe that had a corroded leaking power steering return line. I want to replace both the high pressure and the low pressure lines coming from the steering box. The high pressure removed quite easily. I cannot get the low pressure out. Everything is broken free. Is there a trick to this? I want to see how it comes out so I can put the new one in same way.
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Looking for the instructions on how to remove the lower power steering belt and replace it. We recently discovered the leak and I can't find any information on it.
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My 2002 Elantra (about 276,000km) had some kind of leak in a power steering return line. A mechanic looked at it, said I needed to order the replacement part from Hyundai. Got the part, the mechanic (not Hyundai) took 2 hours and fixed the line.
Driving away from the mechanic, I noticed the front right turn signal was blinking abnormally rapidly. Left turn signal is fine. I call the mechanic, tell him what's happening, and ask if it might be related to the power steering line fix (after all, they're both in the right front side of the vehicle). He swears up and down he touched nothing having to do with the turn signal.
Okay, maybe it's just a coincidence. I buy a new signal light and put it in. Same thing with the front right turn signal blinking too rapidly. While driving back from replacing the bulb, a car cut in front of me and I went to lay on the horn....nothing happened!! No sound. To top it off, for a while now, the dashboard lighting has been dimming slightly at certain times.
What could be causing all this? The alternator is fine, someone tested it.
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I have a problem. I have a nylon return fuel line that is SHOOTING out fuel at the quick connect at the fuel pump. See video: [URL] ....
How do I repair? I think the o-rings in the quick connect went bad. I'm thinking to dip the connector in hot water to soften up the nylon, take the old connector off, and put a new connector on. What size connector I need?
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I have a 1989 Ford mustang 4 cylinder. The return line tofuel tank is leaking. I am wondering if I need to treat the return line as a "high Pressure line" or if I can repair with regular rubber fuel line and hose clamps.
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Either one of my power steering hoses or the gear box is leaking on my 93 Ranger. It appeared the return hose was leaking where the rubber meets the crimp. So I decided I would go ahead and change the return and pressure hose to see if it stops the leak. It was a disaster. It's 2.3L manual transmission 4x2. I got the return hose off ok. I put the wrong size wrench on the pressure hose fitting at the pump but thought it was loosening but it was rounding the nut off. So I couldn't even change that hose. I installed the new return hose and retightened the pressure hose at the gear box.
Well it was a pain getting the flare fittings of the hoses into the steering box so I could tightened the flare nut down. I finally got them tightened, I think, but then when I started the engine fluid shot out of there like a water hose. It's coming from the fittings at the gear box that I thought were tightened. I reloosened and retightened them again and still it's shooting out everywhere. There is so little room getting a wrench on the hose fittings, it was slow going. What do you need to remove in order to get a good straight shot and installing these flare nut fittings and tightening them down right? If I remove the pump will it be easier to install the hoses on the gear box? I have to remove the pump now to change the pressure hose.
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I picked up this 2004 Chevy Venture for my daughter and it has a power steering fluid leak coming out of the power steering cooler line that runs along the frame in front. I know that the procedure to replace this line calls for disconnecting the intermediate shaft of the steering and lowering the subframe to gain access to the line connections on the rack. My question is, is it possible to replace that line without lowering the subframe? I ordered the new line and it's on its way. I wanna do the job right.
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I bought my RS a little more than a month ago. Low and behold about two weeks later my drivers side footwell and behind the drivers seat collected about 2 inches of rain water.
I have searched far and wide and perhaps I'm missing something...My leak is not in the rear which I have seen plenty of info and a couple awesome DIY's. My leak is coming from the panels by the fuse box and hood release. The original owner had done the service to it where the nipples are cut and drained. When I poured a cup of water in the front left drain in the sunroof water comes out of the nipple as well...
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Brought my 2011 Limited (6.2 so old school hydraulic power steering) in for its 45K service, and they found a weeping high pressure line. $100 special order part + 3 hours labor. This seems a little soon (to me) for PS components to be failing already, or is this a common repair? They said I could leave it alone for now and monitor it but could lose power steering while driving (safety risk).
Any history of high pressure power steering line leaks at such low mileage/age before? Does 3 hours labor sound about right?
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I have 2002 F150 5.4L gas 4X4 Lariat FX4. Last winter when it got to -30C here in Manitoba one of the lines near the power steering cooler began to leak. I had just bought this truck and upon investigating found that the original line had been replaced and reattached with hose clamps. I had this "farmer fix" redone but then this winter when it hit -30C it blew apart. Obviously something happened to this line before I got it, so I am curious if there is an issue with these power steering cooler lines when it gets really cold. Should I just get factory lines installed and hope for the best?
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Have a 2007 V10 and I want to put in a Magnafine tranny filter. Instructions say to plumb it in to the return line. Which one is this, top or bottom?
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2003 XL 5.3L with a leaking fuel line between the tank and filter. Mechanic says that this line is only available in a kit that includes all fuel lines for the truck. Hard to believe you can't just get the one line.
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I am rebuilding the oil cooler and noticed since its removed I have great access to this fuel line pair from fuel bowl to soft lines below. How these disconnect at the soft lines? I happen to have a new set waiting to be installed. Is there a tool required ?
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Ok. I have a 2015 6.7 power stroke and my fuel return line clip keeps falling off. And goes into limp mode. It has happen twice and in come up with code p0088. And I push it back on start the truck and it is fine. But idk why it is doing it
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My 2006 Toyota Camry LE (4cyl) is in the shop today for its 120,000 mile maintenance. The Toyota shop says my power steering rack (or boot?) is leaking, the whole thing needs to be replaced, and this is a $1200 repair. I had an accident in this car on 01/03/13, I was hit on the front passenger side tire, pushing it in and under, along with damage to the front lower corner of the door and the whole fender. I got the car out of the repair shop last week and immediately noticed a lot of banging and bumping that was not there before. I called the repair shop, they said bring it in and they will look at it, I was planning to take it in tomorrow. Meanwhile my car was due for an oil change and the 120,000 mile maintenance, so I dropped it off this morning and you know the rest of the story. I asked Toyota if this could have happened in the accident - they said while it could be that the banging and bumping noises are the boot rattling, it was not likely this would have happened in the accident. What do you think, is it possible or likely the power steering rack could have been torn in the accident or in the ensuing replacement of parts on the undercarriage?
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1990 f150
I have a leak in my rear fuel tank, the front tank has been blocked off and is not used, The leak is at the seam of the two part tank, once removed is there a way to seal this? or should I just replace it?
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We have a 2005 Camry XLE, with 102,00 miles on it. It has been very well cared for, and only serviced by our Dealer. We would like to keep the vehicle for another 50,000 miles. We have had an assessment of the vehicle done by the Dealer, because our brakes were very soft.
He found a great deal of air in the lines and flushed them out. He also found:
1.) Leaks in the power steering rack, which he graded as a level 8 severity on a 10 point scale. Repair estimate is $1100 to replace and align.
2.) Both front struts are cracked and graded for severity as an 8 on a scale of 10.
What do you think:
A.) Are these safety issues ?
B.) What are the consequences of delay ?
C.) Are these problems indicative of other likely problems ?
D.) Is it better to have a Dealer perform the repairs ?
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I have a '96 Camry and the gas tank has been leaking. I tried fixing it with putty, which seemed to have worked until the weather became milder again and gasoline started dripping again. Does this mean I should be okay through the winter and reconsider my options only when spring comes around again?
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