On my way back from the coast today, the trucks RPM's started going up and the engine was reving up, but I was losing steam. It started only when I was climbing long steep hills, but by the time I got home, it was doing from a dead stop in first gear, barely moving when I applied gas and released the clutch..
View 19 RepliesI have a 1994 Toyota Pickup DLX 3.0 V6 5spd. I love this truck to death since I inherited it from my grandfather.. however, I have a small problem. Whenever the truck sits for about 3 days without being driven; when I go to drive it the next morning, the clutch will go straight to the floor when I press it. Sometimes it'll even stick. After pumping it about 20 times (it's hydraulic) it'll be fine. It hasn't always done this. The clutch fluid level is fine.
View 4 RepliesMy avante/elantra model is 1.6GLS year 2012.. last friday, it stalled. Saying, i had a low fuel, no digits on fuel tank, one bar left and linking with fuel light on. took the car to petrol station about 200metres. fueled up and drove few 50metres and engine lost power and jerking and died. I could start the car easily, engage gear to D, and able to accelerate , BUT it goes stalling or lost power when accelerate more than 15KM p/hour... it just cant go more than that... engine dies off. check engine ON. Start engine back on again, REV engine continuously, and it slows down above 3/4 rpm with a loud sound like revving without air filter.
So I called up mechanic, he change plugs, still same. he plugged OBD, and gets a KNOCK SENSOR reading on screen, he resetted it, and now the engine has a knocking kind of sound when rev and still can't move.
I woke up and drove to a stop sign. When I tried to pull away the transmission raced like crazy, HIGH RPMS! But was barely moving. After about 8-15 mph it would finally catch 2nd gear. I check fluids frequently, and topped it off a few weeks ago, and when I finally got where I was able to stop, I looked and there was no fluid registering. So I put 2 quarts in to fill.... Then started the car and it would not go into any gear completely. I'd just feel a small thump, when I shifted. It will actually drop into gear after a while going straight, but it's stil revving HIGH and it won't completely go into reverse. Weirdest thing, the "Anti-Lock" light came on while all this was happening...
View 3 RepliesIt happened again this morning while putting the tranny into reverse and backing into my slanted/graded driveway about 60'. After the clutch has been released all of the way, a BEEP...BEEP...BEEP. aural sound comes from either the engine bay or under the dash. It's not happening when driving out fresh in the morning. It only occurred when I was backing up and on a grade. First, I had thought that it was my clutch telling me - Or, maybe it was the Hill Assist actuator in conflict when the car is actually moving. No smoke or burning coming from underneath nor any idiot lights flashing on the Dash.
I left a message for the Service Manager at the VW Dealer that I purchased the car from. I haven't heard back yet if he has ever heard of or witnessed this freak of nature event. Today was the second time in a week that this "Anomaly" has occurred.
I had to stop quick today. My ice water spilled into the gear shift lever. A mile down the road my rpms went up high and the car barely moving.
2006 Hyundai Sonata...
A couple of years ago I bought an older used pick up to pull our camper and do any general hauling I might need. It is an '04.5 (they made some changes mid model year) Dodge Ram 2500 turbo diesel. It was high miles when I bought it (hence the reason I could afford it) with upwards of 300k but that is about midlife for this type of truck so I wasn't worried. It has been a great truck over all with only odds and ends that you would expect from an older high mileage truck.
However, it has one issue that started not long after I bought it and persisted for about the first year I had it. When I apply the brakes the pedal hesitates before moving. The brakes work fine other than this but it is a bit unnerving when you hit the pedal and it doesn't move for a full second. It is only about a second and then it releases and works fine.
I thought the problem had gone away when it started braking normally for something like six months but lately it has started doing it again. I know it does this and plan accordingly so I have not had any close calls but still, I would like to fix this. I cannot find any data on this problem.
I've done a bit of research both here and on other sites. I originally thought that I had a bad flywheel but I'm not convinced. First I'll give a little backstory. I just installed steel shift forks because one broke and got jammed in the gears. None of the gears are damaged and I assumed that when it slammed to halt, the flywheel got messed up. So anyways, the complaint is that when the clutch pedal is released I start to hear a knocking sound which becomes more rapid with RPM. When the pedal is depressed the sound goes away. This sound seems to be coming more from the driver's end of the trans. The car still moves in all gears so I can't imagine that I put it together wrong.
View 6 RepliesI was sitting at a red light and the car shuttered and the rpms dropped but went back to idle. Then when the light turned green I released the clutch to start like normal and the rpms dropped and stalled. It cranks but won't start. I'm getting fuel to the fuel rail and I replaced the coil pack about a year ago.
View 2 RepliesIn every other manual transmission vehicle I have ever driven, the clutch pedal engages/disengages within an inch of the floor. Is it normal that the clutch in my 2002 Hyundai Elantra engages when the pedal is so far away from the floor? When I say far away from the floor I mean within an inch of the pedal being fully released.
View 21 RepliesI have an 00 Accent 1.5 liter 5 speed with about 192000 miles on it. I have put about a tank of gas through it since I've owned it, so I can't give a lot of background on it. When I got it the previous owner told me it was popping out of fifth gear and the clutch fluid leaked.
Upon driving it around a while I noticed it would pop out of fifth and third gears almost at random, but seemed to happen more when I applied throttle. I assumed it was an issue with the shifter not fully engaging the gears, and checked out the bushings under the hood and in the console. All looked good, and I didn't see any extra play.
I drove the car for about 30 miles straight and had to downshift and wasn't able to get the car to go into any gear but fifth. I was moving about 20 mph when this occurred. I was able to limp along to a parking lot where I let the car sit for about ten min and I shifted through the gears when stopped. I headed back home with this problem throughout the trip. There is a sound that happens on occasion (that stops when I press the clutch pedal) that sounds like a bad bearing in the clutch area.
When I'm stopped with the car in neutral and I release the clutch the car stalls like it's in gear. I was able to get the car to move some, but it really doesn't want to it acts like there is something jammed in the gears and popped really loud when I backed it up.
There is fluid for the master cylinder, and I can see the slave cylinder moving when the pedal is pressed. I jacked it up and removed the plug to check for gear oil, and it came pouring out, so I think it has fluid in the gearbox. I'm pretty sure it needs a clutch at the least. I think there may be some internal damage in the tranny, and I'm only into the car for the time it took to power wash a house and don't want to get involved in a big mess.
Last night when I turned my car on (cold engine start so let it warm up) and by accident when i was starting off on 1st i released the clutch to fast and not adding much gas causing the rpms to drop down and the car jumped and not sure if it shut off cause when it turns on it beeps once due to my tpms needing service and i heard the same beep but instead of shutting off the rpms jumped to 2k as if i was revving the engine and i began driving. What gives?
View 4 Replies2000 v6 manual wagon with +-90k. Brutally lowered with KW coils. First thing I noticed was the clutch pedal slowly getting lower and lower to the floor when fully released. Besides the pitch getting shorter, it seems to work fine, no slipping at all. It now sits a couple inches closer to the floor than the other pedals.
I am also getting a couple other things that may or may not relate to the clutch. It started out as a vibration under acceleration, getting worse over about a month or so. Now it is also starting to clunk when pressing or releasing the gas while the clutch is released. It also clunks when moving from a stop, although I can regulate this with the clutch.
I am thinking it is a motor mount causing the clunking and vibrating, and maybe the engines movement has caused the clutch to come out of alignment?? I am unsure where to start, which mount to check, etc.
I also just had my oil pan replaced after slamming the ground recently. Although the problems were starting before this, I am sure this wasn't exactly good for the motor mounts....
My Grandpa has an 88 Ranger 2wd with the 2.9l V6 and a 5 speed, I believe, M5od. I was driving down the highway when I heard a noise. I tried throwing the tranny in neutral but when I pressed the clutch pedal in, I had no pedal whatsoever. Engine took awhile to restart. It'd turn over a little almost as if a rod was bent or something of the sorts. Eventually the engine started and would stay running as long as the clutch was pressed in (disengaged).
The engine dies no matter what range the transmission is in,neutral included unless the clutch pedal is depressed. It Will die when the clutch is released in any gear with no forward movement that is noticeable. I can spin the tail shaft with the driveshaft installed and all gears in neutral but the input does not spin at all. Input shaft wont spin at all, period. I originally thought the slave cylinder was KIA but now I am very confused on what the problem could be? Is there a bearing the input shaft rides on that may of seized?
I pulled the tranny last night and took the top cover off. Yes, I made sure it was in neutral when I removed the cover. I can manually shift the collar to all gears by hand, 5th and reverse included. I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place here and where to go from here. I have bought a new clutch assembly and slave cylinder. This truck was bought by my Grandpa brand new in 1988. It has 98,000 miles and everything is original. I did forget to mention that there was very little oil in the trans when I drained it and it appeared to be gear oil vs ATF.
Title should say Throw-out bearing aka Release bearing.
I have a 2010 5 speed Corolla CE. Having problems with their Throw-out bearings. At around 8000 miles the sqeaking/chirping noise of the bearing was too much so I brought in it to the dealer to fix. They agreed and made the repair.
Now it is only at 10000 miles (22000km) and I can hear it starting again. Just wondering if it is a common problem?
Noise comes and goes as the clutch pedal is released. If you push it in it will go away. It also will happen in all gears but easiest to hear in neutral.
My car makes a clunking sound when the clutch is released, it's not the throw out bearing or the pressure plate, as they have been replaced twice already???? Have dual mass flywheel go bad, what were the symptoms?????
View 10 RepliesBeen having trouble shifting into any gears on these chilly mornings in VA now... The clutch has been sticking on its way out when I release it and the gears don't want to engage unless I really push hard on the shift knob.
View 11 RepliesIt appears I have stumped my mechanic. My '06 Toyota Sienna with 78k miles started making a rattle noise (my toddler says he hears a helicopter) every time I take my foot off the gas. It is most obvious between 25-60mph. The sound continues when the brake is depressed, but stops once the brake is fully engaged. My mechanic doesn't know what is making the noise, but suspects something inside the transmission, and wants to replace the transmission (which is $5600 I'd rather avoid spending if possible). 78k miles is pretty young for a new transmission, especially on a Toyota, right? Where to look next?
View 9 RepliesMy brake pedal squeaks when I release it, for the last two weeks. Does this mean I need maintenance, repair, or some oil?
View 6 RepliesThe transmission is a Six-speed MQ350 transmission in an MKIV 337 GTI.
I was driving last week and ran over a large snow chunk, heard it hit the underside of my car. A mile down the road my foot is resting on the clutch pedal at a stop light, and the clutch slowly went to the floor. It was still drivable, barely. The clutch came about an inch off the floorboard, but still caught. So i pull into the parking lot ahead of me, and was barely able to move the shifter left to right nor would the shifter go into gear. There were no fluids coming from under the car, nor could i see anything that looked wrong. I turned off, back on again. nothing. I then pulled the clutch pedal up from the floor and it went back to normal. Everything seems normal now, but the shifter seemed a little sticky yesterday from left to right.
I have a high-mileage 1984 Toyota Landcruiser that has the 2F engine, 6-cylinder, carburated. It's also got a manual 4-speed transmission in it.
Problem 1: When I'm driving the vehicle down the road and the engine is at temp, it kills on me as soon as I push in the clutch and take the load off the engine. I'll push in the clutch and start coasting to a stop and I'll watch the tachometer go from 2500 rpms or so and drop to the idle range (900 rpm or so) and then it will just continue on down to zero as the engine kills. Fun fact: the engine doesn't do this when it's cold! Another fun fact: when I first bought the vehicle 6 months ago, it didn't do this. I had to replace the power-steering pump right away, and in replacing it, my wrench slipped and snapped a vacuum valve. I drove it with no problems with the broken valve for a week or so before this issue started. Once it DID start, I quickly fixed the valve, and the problem has continued to get worse and worse and worse ever since then.
Problem 2: Since this thing lives off an excessively complicated vacuum system, I immediately suspected issues with the vacuum lines/valves. I went over each and every one of them, replacing old, worn, and cracked lines, and 2 bad valves. I also discovered (through my handy Haynes maintenance manual for the vehicle) that I had a HUGE vacuum leak in the form of a long metal vacuum tube that runs along the engine which was rusted completely through on one end. I sealed that up with JB Weld and let it cure...and ever since I sealed up that line, the damn thing won't hardly run. It's got NO power, it backfires, coughs, spits, and barely runs.
I had a compression check done and found low-compression in cylinders 3 & 6. I also notice a tiny little bit of coolant (antifreeze) leaking down the side of the engine block from up near the head gasket, and I've also noticed lots of steam/water vapor coming out the tailpipe, even when it's up to temp. I'm beginning to think that I have a bad head-gasket. I'm also suspecting that it could be a bad fuel pump that's cutting out...but it seems a bit beyond coincidence that it's doing it every time I take the load off the engine when it's warm!
I rebuilt the carburator, changed all the filters, did numerous repairs to the vacuum lines/valves, changed the thermostat (since that's what powers the vacuum system), verified that the fuel pump is working, etc. No luck so far.