I used a fluid pump to suck out 1 gal of trans fluid thru the fill tube. I refilled. Started car, have engine miss. Flashing cel, comes and goes. I literally touched no other parts under hood. Yes, the fill tube is within 1 foot of maf. Perhaps I touched maf? What the heck? Life is not fair. Can't find my code reader.
View 18 RepliesI have a 1999 Toyota Corolla. 4 cylinders.
I was on the road about 2 hours from home when my check engine light came on flashing. It stopped flashing so I kept driving. Three more hours of driving at highway speeds and it only came back on once. I then took it into autozone and the code reader told me I had a Cylinder 3 Misfire. The guy told me to change my spark plugs and I would be fine. It was time for a spark plug change anyhow so I drove home and did it. After I changed the spark plugs the car did not start at all. It would cough and sputter and try to start but not actually start. Changed the spark plug wires and then the car stopped even coughing and sputtering. It just didn't start.
I then noticed that my fuel line that feeds directly into the engine was rotten right next to the engine and if I pushed it in I could get the car to try to start. (Try and fail, but at least try.) The fuel line is a molded piece of rubber that flares at each end. It was one of the flares that was rotten and didn't seem to be sealing anymore. The hose is 7 mm inner diameter in the middle and about half an inch on the ends. I took some 3/8 in fuel line and used it to cover over one of the flares. The car tries to start now but wont. 3 of the four cylinders crank. I don't understand how I could break my car on such a simple repair job.
Today I started up my 2013 Passat SEL up and it started shaking and idling very strange. A few seconds later I had a flashing CEL so I decided to turn her off. I waited about 5 minutes (after cursing for about 4.5 if those minutes) and tried again. This time the car started and everything was fine, no CEL, no other issues. I drove for about 10 miles, shut off the engine and re-started about 5 more times with no issues.
I just had the car in for the 50K mile service at VW and everything checked out ok. I copied the VAGCON report below and I also sent it to my service manager to get his opinion. What I should do?
Saturday,02,January,2016,17:24:51:53498
VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows Vista x86
VCDS Version: 15.7.3.0
Data version: 20151216
[Code] ....
2008 GLS AWD, 2.7L w/ 66500mi. This happened on my way home from work this AM. Vehicle cold started normally, but I noticed a stumble as I idled out of my parking spot after a 12hr shift. All gauge indications looked OK. A few hundred yards down the road (and deep in the hood no less) I can feel an intermittent vibration/stumble and now I get the *FLASHING* (misfire) check engine light.
5am Sat morning and I'm already on the highway for my ~35mi ride home. The vehicle behaved OK, but you could feel a definite power loss, indicative of not firing on all 6. I hated to, but I had to drive it the whole ~35miles with the flashing CEL. I couldn't smell rich exhaust, nor did I notice any black smoke, etc.
Now I'm SOL. I have no warranty since I'm a subsequent owner (3rd owner of vehicle). Of course I lent out my generic code reader 2yrs ago and never got it back. My garage is currently upside down, tools packed away..etc. We just had a baby a few weeks ago and moved to a new house. Perfect timing.
I'm having an issue with my 2003 Silverado, current engine is LS1 from a WS6 Trans Am, mostly stock, stainless headers, no cats, stall converter. I replaced fuel pump a few weeks ago and last week i took a road trip and when I hit the interstate the CEL started flashing. I pulled over and used my scanner and saw that it was P0307. I cleared code and continued on. The only noticeable problem was that it was not shifting into overdrive. After a while the light quit flashing and eventually it shifted into OD.
This happened several more times on a 750 mile trip. I had a mechanic friend check it over and he couldn't find anything, wasn't throwing codes at that time. He check sparked plug, swapped the coil to #5 and still had the issue. Didn't get a chance to check the fuel injector. The trip home it did the same thing. IF it were indeed a bad injector, wouldn't the problem be ongoing instead of coming and going? Took to local chevy dealer thinking they could diagnose it but since it didn't throw a code they couldn't find anything.
I drove a hybrid prius for the second time ever this past Sunday and drove a whole 22 miles on open roads. This is earmarked to be the parts car, but I believe is actually in better shape than the principal car. Regardless, I'm trying to ensure the motor will be suitable for swapping into main car when needed prior to me pulling it out so I'm tinkering/driving it this next week.
The engine has a misfire, and I suspect that is the reason for the flashing orange check engine light. But what I'm not used to is that the light goes off and doesn't stay illuminated. The light comes on and flashes when any significant demand is placed on the engine-- when I nurse the throttle pedal, I can hear the engine running (I think) and there's no miss. But when I give it throttle the engine starts to miss and the CEL starts to flash. When I slow back down, the engine stops missing and the light goes off.
1) How/why the CEL flashes but then turns off?
The only background I have on this car (2008 at 225K miles) is it was taken out of service with the following writeup:
P0300 Random misfire, 0301 Misfire #1, Po302 Misfire #2 and P0101 Mass Air Flow Stored in ECM. Intermittently car only runs on 2 cyls. Suspect problem with intake due to the fact there is a recall for newer vehicles with the same condition. #1 spark plug continually getting wet with oil. Possible valve guides or ring issue allowing oil in to combustion chamber. To correct engine replacement or rebuild will be necessary.
2) What is this maf recall and might that issue apply to this 2008?
Truthfully, I only need the car to function for ~ 400 miles on a racetrack. I've been reading about the pcv valve replacement and MAF sensor cleaning. I'm considering venting the pcv line into a catch can or into the exhaust stream (to reintroduce a vacuum to the crankcase) and plugging the opening in the throttle body so there's no chance the throttle body is sucking in crankcase oil that's fouling the plugs.
Just dug out my 2004 2.0 Jetta after sitting buried for 4 months. You can see a corner of the wheel there lol, its been a LONG winter. It is my car but my brother normally drives it, and while he is away at uni it just sits.
Anyways, dug it out to start it. Started right up, however after a bit the MIL began flashing. It was running a little rough. Took out my code reader and engine misfire cylinder 4 came up. The rpms are varying by 75~100 every few seconds, however nothing rough. It seemed to rev fine.
Before I put it away I got my brother to put some fuel stabilizer in the fuel. He now tells me that he put some in the oil too since it said "oil stabilizer" as well. It was a seafoam type brand... Not impressed with him there.
My question is could this just be the car waking up? Should I let it run for an hour or two to see if things work out?
My Azera has developed a misfire. Upon leaving work today it ran rough ass soon as I started it. CEL flashing.. I could feel it skipping as I was driving home. Skip never let up.
When I got home, I hooked up the Scanner to it. DTC P0300 was set. Which I think is random misfire. I checked underhood. Nothing appears amiss. With engine off I clear the code and restart the car, This time it set DTC P0301 cyl. #1. I think.
I do not have all the factory service manuals yet. so I need to know what the firing order is on the 2006 3.8 L VIN F Engine. And where the #1 cyl is located. I am suspecting a bad coil at the #1 Cylinder.
I have a 2002 Elantra with 123k on it. It has been having issues with poor acceleration, rough idle, surging, and the car just overall shakes sometimes when driving. The check engine light started flashing on and off periodically today, so I coded and it and it gave me P0303, which is a cylinder 3 misfire. I checked the spark plugs, and the cylinder 3 spark plug was pretty bad, so I went ahead and replaced all 4. The wires were in mint condition, so no issues there. I also put fuel injector cleaner in just for good measure. When I went to test the car, startup and acceleration/reverse were better, but the other symptoms still persist. What I should check next???
View 14 RepliesStarted with trouble starting right after a fill up. Right before I was to replace the evap purge valve, I filled up and on my way home, the MIL starts flashing and the car starts to misfire significantly. I replaced the purge valve, but no change in performance (though my car now started up right away after filling it up!). I would drive the car and it would misfire while idling at a light, backing up out of my driveway, accelerating on flat and inclined roads, etc. Codes were 300, 301, 303, and 337 (misfire, misfire, misfire, crankshaft position sensor low voltage)
So, I replace the crankshaft sensor with OEM (this is my 3rd one and this sensor going bad has caused different symptoms each time. First my car would cut out and die while turning, second it would not allow the car to start, and now presumably rough idle). Now the car starts up with less cranking, but still runs rough and misfires (only 301 this time).
So, next I replace the plugs with NGK V's gapped at .044. Better, but not perfect. I noted that the plug in cylinder 1 was darker than the rest.
I read on thread here about regapping to .035, so I tried that. Again, I noted that cylinder 1 plug is slightly darker, while 2-4 have a slight white coating. After the regap, runs great, no misfires, smooth acceleration, perfect...for 24 hours.
On day 2 I start to feel a slight misfire going up a hill, and sometimes at a red light or accelerating from a stop...but not all the time.
Now its day 3 and similar to day 2. Not since I regapped the plugs has the MIL been on, so the misfires are hard enough to feel, but not enough to trigger the MIL.
Not sure where to go next. The coil packs were replaced last year (35,000 miles ago). The car has 137,000 miles on it.
Just bought a 2011 GTI certified Preowned with 12k miles. drives perfect the first week I have it doesnt make a noise, like a brand new car.
I get in the car about an hour ago to go get my daughter some tylenol and when pulling out I feel the car almost like Die and then the CEL starts flashing and the car starts smoking horrible. no power at all so I limped back the 500 ft to my parking spot.
I am new to MKVI but had a MKV GLI previously. my guess would be coil packs but wasnt sure about the horrible smoking.
Ok. Im going to keep this as short as possible. I bought my 05 passat 1.8t AWM TIP used in 09 with 44k
At around 90k I started getting a Random misfire only at idle. And it would be a different cylinder, not always the same would come back after clearing. The RPMs would be very low like around 840. And i think it should be around 920-960. That seems to be one of the main issues. Everything on the car is stock.
So basically, If my CEL starts flashing, and I clear it, I could drive a million miles with no misfires, but as soon as it starts to idle they come back ( I do have vag-com) and know how to use it for basic functions.
This is what has been done:
July 2011:
Engine rebuild (bad piston rings due to clogged cat converter)
Timing belt Kit (Timing was off 5 degrees!!!)
brand new turbo KO3, and Oil feed line
DV
N75 valve
Fuel Pump
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pressure regulator
MAF sensor
ECU swapped out (old ECU would not go through all steps for Throttle body alignment)
So, after all this and 3 weeks later, I get the car back and it ran great the whole way home. Put it in park waited 5 seconds, and the random misfires came back. So it went back to the shop the next day.
September 2011
These things were done:
Crank Position sensor
Cam position sensor
Compression test ( to make sure he didn't make a mistake while rebuilding motor) Results were Perfect
Leakdown test
Map sensor
Another MAF
2 O2 sensors
Upgraded DV
Fuel injectors
Removed engine wiring harness and OHMed every single wire. Nothing wrong
OEM Coilpacks
3 sets of copper plugs
Throttle body was swapped with 2 others from known working cars.
Trans pan replaced fluid flushed and new trans filter
I have heard this is a fairly common thing on the B5.5 models...
I have a 2009 VW GTI 6spd (42k miles) that has been misfiring at idle for about a month now. I can feel the engine shaking and see the CEL flashing at 900 RPM and eventually an EPC light comes on and makes the car run very sluggish. The EPC light turns off if the i turn the car off and back on. The car runs fine and without any misfires after start up which has me stumpted as to what it could be.
I've taken it to San Tan VW in Gilbert, AZ 3 times.
1st time they said it needed a 40k mile service to correct the misfire which included oil change, fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, fuel injector clearner and a tire rotation They said spark plugs was causing the misifre so i replaced the plugs but the misfire was still there.
2nd time they said the injectors have carbon build up and recommended to run 2-3 bottles of fuel injector cleaner + octane booster per tank for about 2 tanks and that will fix the issue. That didnt work either.
3rd visit they came to the conclusion that it had massive amounts of carbon and needed a "walnut blast". They recommended to look else where for cheaper labor rates on the blast.
Also, need to understand why the car only misfires at 900 RPM if there is carbon deposits at all times.
Driving the other night I ran drove over a pot hole going about forty pulled up to the stop light and my car starts to make funny noises, barley got the car moving again but managed to get home. I hooked my computer up to it and it says misfire at cylinder 2 and 4.
View 14 RepliesI got a 2002 and its giving ma a po301. I know that means a misfire in cylinder 1. I replaced the Coils, Plugs and wires, and now its still there but the check engine light is flashing. What next?????
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 Hyundai Accent that is giving me one heck of a headache. I keep getting a code for number 1 cylinder misfire. When you start it up it runs fine for a while then the CEL will flash and it will start running rough. As soon as I shut it off and restart it, it runs fine. I even experimented with it this morning on the way to work. It started running rough doing 60, I put it in neutral, turned the car off and then right back on, put it back in gear. It ran fine the rest of the way to work. I have swapped coil packs, fuel injectors, spark plugs, and have even hang tested another ECM. Still number 1 cylinder misfire.
View 8 RepliesI did not get the specific cel code but its what the guy told me at autozone.
Long story short. Washed engine, let sit for about 30 mins. Car started with flashing CEL and was "puttering" and very rough idle. Drove home took intake off and replace with stock, took spark plugs out and they were not wet. Then let it sit for about 15 mins. Started just fine. No CEL at all.
The accent saved the CEL and the guy told me that Cylinder 1 had a misfire.
My question is, should I do anything now even though the car seems to be running ok?
Been awhile since I've been able to post but I've got a serious issue with my 2006 Ranger XLT 4L V6. So last night about 2 miles from home my check engine light started flashing like it was a at a rave and my engine wasn't acting right, also had the STRONG odor of raw gas, no other lights from the dash, no fluids leaking, oil was good n nothing in radiator but coolant. Was able to baby it to my current home but all my tools are in storage so had to wait to get my ODB scanner to see what's up. Scan came back as 'cylinder #3 misfire' & 'O2 sensor reading rich'.
Go cylinder #3 spark plug out and it were fouled bad. Got ride to the store and got a whole new set. Got back n got'em changed and fired ut up, idle still rough and check engine started flashing again and white cloud coming from exhaust pipe and STRONG odor of gas. Check and now have 'multiple missfire', 'cylinder #2 misfire' and 'cylinder #3 misfire'.
Shut it down go and double check ALL spark plug wires are connected and TRY to start, get about a turn n a half then starter spin. Try again and the engine won't even turn over. "Great I've seized the engine!" Was able to put a socket on the crankshaft pully and manually turn the engine over "whew didn't seize the engine", did this a couple of times and tried to start, was rough but eventually it fired up, still idling rough and again check engine light flashing, while it was running I pulled one plug wire at a time from the coilpack to see/feel the lighting and there was spark for the 3 I pulled, didn't affect engine idle.
Run codes and 'cylinder #3 misfire', so now that the engine is was warmed up I pulled out my ohm meter and started checking wire resistance. Cylinders #1, #2 were at .012, #3 was .011 and #5 was .009.
I've figured that the raw gas is due to cylinder #3 not burning and just pushing gas into the exhaust. So to the brass tacks, do I invest in a new set of wires? Or could it be the injector being stuck open and just flooding the cylinder? No when I originally pulled the #3 plug fuel did not spill out. Haven't pulled #3 again due to it being May in Arizona and had to take a break. I'm going on the assumption that the engine wouldn't start after a short run do to "hydraulic lock in cylinder #3", my manually turning the engine over cleared this and allowed the engine to start.
Having an issue with my wife's 2007 camry V6. We got the car new and the orig battery lasted over 3 years until a trip NY where the intr light was left on for a couple of days. After several tries, the battery took a jump from a tow truck and got us home. The car ran for a few days then we had starting issues as well as the dash lights would flicker and the speedo neelde would jump along with the RPM gauge. So we changed out the battery.
Now we only get about a year per battery. We also noticed the drained batteries are typically accompanied with misfiring and a bad coilpack. Not sure how that fits into the equation but we have changed 3 of the 6 coil packs. The most recent batt swap only lasted 7 months. The flickering lights and jumping RPM n Speedo needles happen last firday when my wife called me to say "its at it again" driving rough, ABS light, Ck eng light on and flashing.
She got home late and parked it in the garage. The next morning i went out to inspect and it wouldn't start. Fast clicking sound of a dead batt. I changed the battery (Costco batt fitment 24f i believe) yesterday (Monday). She called this morning and the car is still riding rough and the ck eng light is on. My guess is another coilpack.
So my 96 blazers cel started flashing and the truck started running extremely rough. I changed the catalytic converter and the o2 sensor that is in the pipe. Made no difference. So I knew my intake manifold gasket has a leak so I changed the gaskets and put knew bolts in. I wasn't thinking and took my distributor out and forgot to mark the timing. So played like heck getting it in timing again. Took a bit cause I didn't realize there was two timing marks. So got it started again was running really rough so thought 180 off turned it nothing. So put it back started it up still running very rough and flashing cel so put a new crank sensor and cam sensor in and a ignition coil in. No dif still. Could it be the egr or ECM?
View 12 Replies2002 Montana code P0304 light was flashing now solid, swapped coils no change, new plug and wire no change, found air box plugged solid from hibernating mice cleaned out thats when light went from flashing to solid still misefire. I've been told its the injector.
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