Toyota - Matrix :: Manual Transmission Just Died Suddenly While On The Highway
Jan 4, 2012
2003 Toyota Matrix w/126,000 miles on it. Manual transmission just died suddenly while on the highway. I hear that this is common. This is not my first manual tranny, and car has been treated well. Web check & call to Toyota toll-free number reveal no recall. Toyota denies any knowledge of such a problem. They foisted me off, "Contact a local dealer for assistance." I await an estimate from a transmission shop. No longer trust Toyota. Will a rebuild solve this? Or should I seek new tranny? Are replacements any better? Or do they still use same lousy bearings/parts that made the original fail? Besides a new clutch, is there anything else one should repair/replace while car is taken apart? About how much should this cost, at most? Car is otherwise OK, do I repair & hope for another 75k miles, or do I junk the car? A friend suggests a 6-speed tranny.
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I have a 2006 Toyota Matrix. I want to change my manual transmission fluid in it. I have called dealerships and auto parts stores and keep getting different answers. I was wondering exactly what kind of fluid do I use and how much fluid do I use. I am not going to pay $219 for the dealership to do it but I want to make sure I put in the right kind and the right amount.
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Just purchased a 2009 Matrix XRS Manual transmission with 67,000 miles on it. I can't get the VSC Off and Traction lights on the panel to go out.
During our test drive, I had turned the system on and off to make sure it was working, and didn't seem to have any trouble with it.
I went to have it inspected yesterday. During the test, they hook up to the ODBII port to check emissions. The tech had trouble getting it connected the first time, saying the connection was going in and out. Eventually, they were able to get it connected properly and passed the inspection.
After they pulled the car out of the bay, the VSC Off and Traction lights were solid on, and they have been every time I've started the car since. Checking the manual, all I should have to do to turn the system back on is press the traction button, but that doesn't seem to be working at all. I also tried holding it down for 30 seconds or so with no luck.
The lights aren't flashing, so I don't think this is an error, I'm wondering if the computer got confused somehow with the ODBII port issues.
Stuff I've tried:
1. Followed these instructions for the Highlander Hybrid thinking maybe Toyotas will generally do this. That just caused most of the lights to flash on the panel and didn't bring up any VSC diagnostic messages.
2. I pulled the panel from the dash out to check to make sure the button was working, and I do get connectivity between the two outside pins while the button is pushed in.
how to get this to reset, or what the problem might be?
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I have Corolla 1.6 dual VVTi (year - 2009.), manual transmission, 1ZR engine, for about a year, ~50000miles on clock. About a month ago from a engine part it began to produce sound that can be heard on the accompanying recordings.
for these sounds is characteristic that:
- can be heard only while driving and depressing a gas pedal, its not heard when I am changing rmps while the car is stationary..
-only when engine is warm
-from about 1900rpm to 3000rpm.
-Toyota service is not useful, they fail to locate the source of the sound.
I submit sound recordings that I made by placing a microphone in the motor department.
[URL] .....
What is causing this and is it dangerous to drive this car?
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How to disable the auto door locks but I have the opposite problem. Mine were not enabled and I would like them to be. Looking for instructions for enabling the auto door locks? 2010 s, no smart key, manual transmission.
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We purchased a certified pre-owned 2009 Toyota Matrix (S--AWD) in January 2012, with approx 17K miles (a lease turn in). We purchased a platinum vehicle service plan that covers the car through 2017 or 100K miles. We had the oil changed at 22K miles (May 2012) per the recommended 5K miles at a private garage, not a Toyota dealer. This place had done work on my previous vehicle, a 1994 Corolla, for 6 years and had proven to be reliable and trustworthy, in my opinion.
Last Friday, my husband was driving our daughter to daycare, and 5 miles from our home, the oil and engine lights came on in close succession, and the engine seized and died. We had roadside assistance through the warranty, and it was towed to the nearest Toyota dealer, which is not the one we purchased the vehicle at. They informed me that the car had no oil filter and that therefore nothing that happened to the car was covered under warranty, and said it was clearly the fault of whomever had changed the oil.
Problem: The oil had been changed 4 months, and 4K miles before this happened.Problem: There is no evidence of an oil leak in our garage, our driveway, the driveway at my workplace: There is no evidence of a catastrophic oil dump along the 5 mile route before the car died: We cannot find an oil filter along this path either, we have been along it on bicycle looking in the weeds
So the car was in our garage with no oil leaking at 6:45 am, and somehow ended up out of oil, with no filter, in 5 miles, by 7 am. The car had been driving fine--I am the one who usually drives it. I actually drove it 80 miles on Tuesday b.c I had forgotten my laptop at home and had to make the trip to and from work twice (22 miles one way). Then my husband had Weds-Fri off and it was driven 12 miles to and from daycare on Weds and Thurs, and the 5 miles on Friday before it died. No lights were on when I drove it Tuesday, and he says no lights were on before the point that it died.
The guy who changed the oil says the he cannot see how they are at fault, b.c there is no way the car could go so far and so long with an improperly installed filter (it is the screw in style filter, not a cartridge), and that if it were loose, as soon as the seal was broken, oil would spray everywhere. He went and looked at the car at the dealer, and looked at the spot where the car broke down and said there is not enough oil there. There is about enough in spots that would cover an area around a foot in diameter. Toyota says it could have been a slow leak if it was not screwed on right--but where is the evidence for an oil leak? Shouldn't the oil light have gone off previously if oil was low? The oil change guy says there's no way there would be a slow leak, the oil would have all dumped out and killed the engine long before the filter somehow fell off. He keeps asking me where is the oil, and where is the filter? Which I would love to have the answers to those questions, but I don't. He says unless I can produce the filter to show it is the one he put in, and that it is banged up to show it came off the car, he won't pursue an insurance claim. Toyota says it sounds weird but since he is the last one that touched the car, it's his fault. Right now we are in the middle and it is looking like we are going to be stuck with the bill for a new engine.
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2 years ago I had the transmission and clutch replaced on my 2002 Echo. it has driven fine since then but three days ago we were on the highway and the clutch suddenly disengaged..I don't know if that's the right terminology but it was as if I had pushed the clutch in (I hadn't) and the engine was just revving but not accelerating...I tried all the gears with the same result...eventually my car slowed to a stop.
A day later I had it towed to the mechanic...when he drove it it was fine, and did not exhibit the problem at all. He checked out the clutch and said it looked fine, and said my description of the problem made it sound as if the clutch had overheated....but he said that usually happens with city driving, not on the highway. So he is stumped..the car seems to be fine now, though I haven't had it out on the highway yet.
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I accidentally drove my Toyota Matrix in third gear at highway speed for at least 50 miles. Did I do damage?
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Is this behavior normal: I test drove a 2010 corolla LE with 4-spd auto, 41K miles. Noticed that on level highway 60 mph that whenever I eased up on the gas that the RPMs would shoot down. Vehicle speed was barely decelerating since I was on level. As soon as gas reapplied (gently), then the RPMs would shoot up. I'm guessing the delta was like 300 RPM. I get the impression that at highway speeds the car is mostly in 3rd gear or shifting up and down a lot. I've read a lot about a TSB for 2011 corollas but nothing for 2010. And I think that problem is different. So my question is whether this is "normal" for driving at highway speeds?
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I have a 2010 Matrix with automatic transmission. 5.5 year old with only 44,000 KM ... The transmission jerks annoyingly when up-shifting from gear one to two. I replaced the transmission oil and had Toyota service confirm there is a problem.
I read that the accumulator should be checked and adjusted as well as the throttle which can be done without removing the transmission, but Toyota tells met hat everything is now electronic and there is nothing to adjust. How to proceed?
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I have a 2004 Toyota Matrix, 5 spd manual with 175,000 miles. It's been a great car, but about 4 months ago I noticed more noise than usual from the engine compartment. It sounds like someone dropped a noisy diesel engine in there! The noise is most noticeable on the highway when the engine is under greater load (e.g. up hill). The dealer told me it's the belt tensioner. I had that replaced, but the noise is still there, and it's getting worse. I recently had the car completely serviced, full tune up, transmission fluid changed, etc.
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Yesterday my transmission slipped as I accelerated from a stop off the highway exit ramp. It grabbed almost immediately and no problems till I got to my destination about 2 miles down the road.......fluid was dripping from the underneath the engine......reddish/pink fluid. Engine was not over heated (according to the gauge). Pulled car off driveway and down the road a bit and transmission was really slipping when trying to accelerate quickly (no issue with slow acceleration). Checked transmission fluid and it was not covering the stick. I thought maybe I burst a transmission coolant line but upon inspection no fluid on that.
So I added 1 quart of transmission fluid this morning and started the car to hope to find the leak. No immediate leaking the transmission case, seals or lines. But I did notice that when I started the car the coolant reservoir was "bubbling". After about 5 minutes to allow the engine to warm and the coolant gauge to come to normal operating range I noticed coolant reservoir/overfill spewing out a pinkish foamy fluid and then checking the transmission fluid level it was drained again (no fluid on stick when running). One last fact....the fluid temp coming from the overflow was cold, so was the radiator fluid after I popped off the radiator cap.....but the dashboard temperature coolant gauge was at the mid point/normal operating temperature of the scale.
So my question is......where do I take the car to have it looked at......a transmission shop, or a typical full service mechanic? Is the transmission fluid co-mingling with the coolant fluid and if so how does that happen?
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I'm about to do a transmission fluid change on my 2009 Toyota Corolla and couldn't find the transmission fluid drain plug. Google search revealed various answers - located on transmission pan - located on transmission itself. Looking for a picture of where it's located for a 10th gen Corolla?
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2004 accent manual shift. car drives well, but when i step on the gas, it sudenly pulls to left. when i release gas, it goes back to straight driving. motor mount??? anything else come to mind??
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I drove the truck a night before and all was well. 24 hours later no sign of power, completely dead. I jumped the battery last night and the truck started. I drove it around and came home started right up, this morning started without an issue.
What happened here, all doors were closed and dome was off. It is an Exide battery, I don't know how old the battery is, PO changed it.
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I have a 2004 Prius @ 150k miles that randomly shut down today at idle.
My girlfriend was driving the car at the time and I received a call saying that the car would not start and she was stuck under a bridge. Apparently she was at a red light when the car died and it wouldn't start, so some people pushed the car out of the intersection. When I got there, the car started up fine, but I did notice that the traction battery was just about fully drained.
She mentioned that the car felt like it was in limp mode and that when she braked the whole car shook. After the car died, she tried to start it but it would just click, and it showed the red triangle. I've been driving the car for a few miles on and off the highway and no problems now and the red triangle never reappeared.
Past history of the car is just a P0420 CEL which is either the sensors or probably the cat. I just had the CEL re-read and its now showing in addition P0171 and P0121. I'm not sure when the P0171 and P0121 came up, but I did clean the MAF less than 10k miles ago.
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Traveling approximately 40-45 MPH and my engine just quits. I was able to turn(very hard without power) to get off the road. I tried to restart the vehicle and it wouldn't crank over. After calling roadside assistance and the PD, I tried again and it stated. On the same day, I was driving home from appointment and it happened again, this time while accelerating from a stop and making a left turn. Same scenario, only this time the truck turned over a lot quicker than the first time. A couple days later, it happens again while accelerating after a stop and making a left hand turn. Now I call the mechanics and ask if this could have something to do with the module they replaced for my AC. They check out the truck and get a new module to install, which they did under warranty. We also left the truck with them to drive to see if it did it to them, it didn't. So DH takes truck and he drives it and it does it to him. Now though, with me and with him, the truck seems to start back up quicker than the first and subsequent times. We are going away for a bit and plan to leave the truck with the mechanics to drive to see if it does it to them since they still haven't had it happen while they've had it. I'm stumped. They were able to fix the ac very reasonably and a few other things have popped up, but this truck has been really good to me and I'm trying to drive it into the ground, so to speak, as it still has very low mileage for its age. Of course, the thought of it just conking out while driving is very disconcerting. I wait until the roads are completely clear to do u-turns and such, but in the back of my mind, I know it can shut off anytime.
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I have a 2001 Volvo S80 with about 200,000 miles and it died on me while driving. The battery is about 6 months old. The shop I took it to said the timing chain slipped and might have caused damage to the piston and head. Does this seem reasonable as the cause?
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Driving home tonight went to take an exit and was over come with great surprise when my car didn't move haha. The power steering has seem to have gone. I got home and opened the hood, but due to the antarctic temps couldn't use my fingers to open the fluid cap. The little black box with the fluid seems to have a tick ticking every few minutes. Any thoughts as to what it could be. How bad is it to drive it like this till Thursday when I can make an appt..
I plan on bringing it to a mineke on break just to see if they can narrow it down.
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Factory fog lights worked fine, had body off for the head studs recently, they worked fine after. One day they just don't work. Fog light indicator light still comes on. Fuse is good. High beam indicator still works. Where to troubleshoot next?
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New to the board- sold my b6 passat for '12 GTI manual.
Its been a few years since i've owned a stick so I'm not sure if this noise is normal or just because the car as 100 miles on it OR just because I'm a freak when it comes to hearing every little noise.
But when i'm say in 5th or 6th gear on the highway and give it some gas I hears some noise like a fluttering vibration noise for a second or two and then it goes away? It sounds like its coming from right underneath me. Its not a huge deal but on my first brand new car, I'd rather just have someone tell me its normal or if it needs to be fixed or a bolt tightened or something.
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