Toyota - Matrix :: 2006 - Remote Door Locks Fob Stopped Working?
Jun 25, 2014
The "lock" button of my remote door lock fob stopped working. 2006 Toyota Matrix... I went out to my car this morning and it was unlocked. Apparently been unlocked since I drove it 2 days ago.Someone went in it and emptied the contents of my glove compartment on to the floor and opened all the other compartments, except the one for change.Stupid thief could have heisted ~$2 in quarters. I never leave valuables in my car.I could still lock the doors with the buttons on the front doors, so I went researching the remote lock receiver (one of the many "black boxes").I found out it's expensive ($4-500 new) and buried behind trim in the back of the car.This evening I was thinking more clearly and calmly so I went out to pull the trim and have a look at this module.I tried the "hatch" button to see if the separate rear glass opening latch still functioned, and it did.I closed the glass and low and behold the "lock" button started working again! Problem solved!So the remote won't lock the doors if the rear glass is not closed securely.
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Car: 1996 Nissan Maxima
The car has an automatic antenna (up/down when you turn on/off the radio). I wanted to disconnect the motor to leave it in the up position. I followed the cables to the antenna (left the coax alone, of course), and cut the 3 conductors that were leading to "a box" under the antenna. NOTE: This area in behind a metal panel.
As intended, the antenna is stuck in the up position. The problem is that I also lost the dash clock, the remote to the door locks stopped working, and the radio memory buttons do not work anymore (the radio comes on in AM every time).
AND here is the mystery; I went back to the cables, spliced them together (correctly - they are color coded) but NOTHING CAME BACK TO NORMAL. The radio is still messed up, remote still not working, and the dash clock is still off.
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We've got a 2006 Civic EX Coupe, and the power windows and power door locks have both stopped working. If I can remember correctly, they kind of faded out over the course of a few weeks, working intermittently then not working at all.
All window and door lock fuses (interior and under the hood) are still good.
What this could be? Is it something DIY fixable? I've removed door panels for random stuff, but haven't really done much with power window electronics.
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2006 F150 5.4 2WD extended cab tow package 24k miles
My power windows have stopped working from all locations. I checked and the fuses are good. I can no longer use the exterior keypad to unlock the truck, yet my remote keyring switch will electronically open both driver and passenger doors. Neither driver's nor passenger's interior door switches work.
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Some background: New remotes programmed worked a month then stopped working, toyota dealer got it working for a month but only worked within 3 feet of door. Now not working at all. Could it be receiver for remote in the car? Where is it? How to fix?
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So, I have a 2005 Toyota Camry remote locks have not worked for a while. Also started having the issue with the two front doors where the manual electric locks worked intermittently. I replaced the little RC car motors in the door lock actuators today and got that squared away so that works great now. I also ordered a new remote to program. I programmed the remote and everything seems to go fine with that (The locks cycle when they are supposed to etc.). However, once I program the remote it just doesn't work.
So, trying to figure out what is going on here. Should I just return the remote and try to get a different one...but would it even program if it the remote where not compatible.
Also, read some about about a Door control receiver module. which that is basically a wireless receiver right? I would think if it could receive a signal and cycle the locks during programming then it should work normally??
I drove the car for years and just did not worry about it but have passed it down to my teenage daughter and would like her to be able to unlock the doors while approaching the car so she can just hop in and go without having to fumble around with keys.
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I, like many, have had issues with my aux jack and decided to have it replaced with an aftermarket device. My aftermarket device plugs into the rear of the radio in place of the OEM aux harness. After removed the old OEM aux harness and installed the new one and put everything back together i had a problem.
The new AUX also comes with a USB slot as well and it all works properly, thats not the issue.
The issue is that my keyless remote has intermittently stopped working. I got out to lock the doors with the remote and nothing happened. I had no time to fiddle with it so i locked the doors via the keyhole and left it. The next time to went to my car, i tried to use the keyless and voila it worked! it locked AND unlocked. I was releived that it worked. Unfortunately once i drove and parked and tried to lock again - it didnt work . Needless to say it doesn't always work, ususally if i lock the doors with the key and come back more then 30 minutes, it unlocks keylessly.
The remote LED light turns on when i press any of the buttons so i know the battery is fine. I already opened the remote and confirmed the contacts are working properly. The only thing i haven't tried to do is reprogram the keyless remote (which i dont think is necessary).
Random symptoms - there are 3 circular dials (fan control, fan speed, temperature control) in the centre console. Originally ONLY the center dials LED lights would turn on. Now randomly the 3rd dials LED lights turn on again. I wanna start checking fuses but would like to know where to start.
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I'm having a problem with my remote lock/alarm system in my 2010 Corolla LE. The driver door suddenly stopped locking and unlocking with the remote. The other 3 doors work fine, but the driver door won't work. When I lock the driver door with the key and press the lock button, everything locks and unlocks like normal. If I wait awhile and try to unlock the doors again, the driver door lock again won't work.
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Power door locks on my 2001 Aurrora have stopped working. It seemed to progress. First the rear door locks didn't work, now the rear and passenger door locks won't open or close with key fob or power switch on doors. I can still operate the door latches manually with the door lock lever. Also the interior lights and power windows to these same doors don't work. I examined the fuses under the rear seat and found nothing blown. What controls all these devices? The driver door operates as normal.
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe, recently all the door locks stopped working at once. When I use the Key Fob The Blinkers flash like they are supposed to but it does not lock/unlock the doors. The panic button also works. When I use the key in the door it only unlocks that door, meaning when I double turn the other doors do not lock/unlock. Now that this happened all at once I do not believe all the actuators broke at once. Is there a fuse or a relay that might of broke or blown?
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Last week my door locks just stopped working so I checked all the fuses and relays which all were good but still no power took door panels off and checked with tester and no power to switches or actuators, Checked wiring in between door and cab and no broken or bare wires. This truck does have remotes and they don't work either, what's going on ?
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I've searched the inter tubes, trying to find out if there is a fuse or relay or even circuit breaker that needs replacing. From all I've checked, I can't find a fuse, relay or circuit breaker labeled to control window and door locks.all 4 windows don't work (with exception to front passenger window occasionally goes down but not up.)finally figured i should have come to this fine forum first! (especially after hearing 'car talk' today)some other pages with similar questions had answers referring to fuse #12 or relay F (mine aren't identified that way). I'm heading out to get a test light -- just so i can see if i can test anything...
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I have a 2007 Accent SE Hatchback. The drivers door will lock but will not unlock with the remote. The drivers door locks and unlocks with the inside door switch and locks and unlocks with the key. The passenger door and hatch unlock on the 2nd click with the remote. The only issue with the locking system is that the drivers door will not unlock with the remote.
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I have a 2002 f150 supercrew, 4wd. The power door locks stopped working the other day and I am trying to fix it. So far I have checked the fuse in the power distribution box, good. I have checked the wires from the doors to the cab along the door sills to the rear doors , all good. I did find a couple of iffy grounds on the left kick panel and cleaned and repaired them. I am having a heck of a time finding the group of relays that control the lock and unlock functions. Remember , I have no power lock function at all. I would swear its not getting power to the relays but until I find them , I just don't know. Where they are supposed to be?
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i just bought my 2nd hand 2009 corolla recently and i notice that my door remote is not working if the engine is in running condition.
let say i park my car in front of the mini store to buy something, i don't want to shut off the engine so that the inside of the car is still cold when i comeback after a few minutes. (by the way, i am here in saudi arabia...gasoline here are much cheaper that everywhere else).
the problem is, when i use my remote to lock the door...it wont work...unlike my previous cars, door remotes are working even the engine is on or off...
is there any settings from the computer or do i just have to do something from the inside of the car..
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I have a jetta mkiv GLI. My key remote stopped working and it will not unlock/lock, open trunk, or panic button for a while, so ill just lock the door putting the key in the door and turning twice. Now i do the same thing to lock the doors, but now it honk like it used to, until i open and close the driver rear door?
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My door locks stopped working new battery in fob, I can hear them trying to work. 2000 f250 crew cab .....
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I have a 2002 Rav4, no key fob, just use a regular key. The driver's side door started to have unlocking issues and finally wouldn't unlock at all. The other two outside locks - passenger side and back door - were fine and were the only way I was getting into my car for a couple of weeks. Repair shop pulled the driver's side lock, pulled out the non-functioning tumbler, and had it replaced and re-keyed at a lock shop. Got the car back and driver's side door was working great, but that very day, I all-of-a-sudden couldn't unlock the passenger or the back door from the outside using the key (both will lock from the outside using the key). The shop (which I've been going to for a long time) thinks it is just a coincidence that both the other locks stopped working right after fixing the driver's side door, but that makes no sense to me. Is there anything in the driver's side door that could have been disturbed and is now preventing both the other doors from being unlocked from the outside? The repair shop solution is to just pull the other two locks and do the same thing as the driver's side door - pull any bad tumblers and re-key. I just cannot believe that this is a coincidence.
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The following have stopped working (at the same time if I remember correctly): power door locks, power mirrors, power trunk release and rear defroster. We are also getting a tire pressure fault warning when the tire pressure is ok. As far as other items located on the drivers door, the power seat adjustment and power windows are still working. I checked every fuse in the interior box and the the rely ant fuses unde the hood. I exchanged the big, square, grey fuse for the rear defroster with the one for the starter and still no luck with that issue.
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I have a 2005 excursion with about 112,000 miles and last week all 5 doors decided to stop working on me when trying to lock or unlock with the remote or the door switch. I do hear a sound like something is happening just right of the fuse box. I did a little research and found that this is a wide spread problem. I did order 4 of the 5 actuators and I replaced the drivers door but nothing yet. Do they all have to be replaced in order to work? Or is it most likely something else causing this? Just trying to figure it out before I install the other actuators or take it in to a shop.
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I had two 12" subs running in my 09 corolla. The front right door speaker and little tweeter speaker stopped working so I took the subs out. I figured the speaker was blown so I ordered new ones. When I installed the new door speakers, they didn't work.
I know for a fact it is not the speaker that's faulty because I tried them on the driver- side door and they worked. So my passenger side door and tweeter speakers aren't working. Do I need to order a new tweeter speaker as well? Like does the tweeter need to be working for the door speaker to work? And vice-versa?
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