Toyota - Matrix :: 2005 - Shutters And Stalls After Warming Up
Jul 14, 2014
We have a 2005 toyota matrix with 152k miles. In the heat of the afternoon, or after driving 25-30 min the car begins to shutter. Slight hiccups when at speed, then stalls if idling, like at a stop light of the exit ramp. It starts right up, then dies when put in drive. We have taken it to toyota, TWICE. On the second trip, the car died on them and they still found nothing. The check engine light is not on. There are no fault codes. Toyota said replace the spark plugs, which I did. Still has same issue. The ECM was replaced under warranty a couple years ago.
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Posted earlier with my escape randomly stalling at idle. Getting a code po446 along with po511. Only stalls at idle after warming up and letting it set a while. When you go to recrank it that is when it won't idle or if it does its at 500 rpms or less. Also after driving it today it smells like rotten eggs. Replaced the idle control valve with no luck. What could cause this?
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My 2003 ranger, 4.0l, 5 spd manual with 295K miles has no power on acceleration. Engine shutters/stalls. The following have been replaced in last 20k miles; fuel pump, plugs/wires, mass flow sensor and fuel filter. Last week left for work and could not go faster than 50 mph. Condition has gotten worse (barely goes past 40 mph).
Changed filter with no improvement.
Checked fuel pressure - constant at 65 psi.
Changed coil - no change.
The tank of gas I put in just before problem was from station with tanker dumping while I pumped. That tank is out of truck; filled from different station. Also put can of seafoam in tank. No change.
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While driving, idling, accelerating, or braking the engine of 2010 Toyota Corolla XRS (2.4L) will be running fine but then have a shudder, evening stalling at times.
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I have a 2002 F250 7.3 4WD automatic with 313,000 miles. A week ago it started stalling after it idled for 10 minutes. It acted like it wasn't getting fuel. It would sputter a few times then just quit. I changed the fuel filter and the truck ran fine the rest of the day. Since that day, it has acted the same way every morning at 1st startup. It idles fine for 10-20 minutes (depending on how cold it is outside), then hesitates a little, then stops. After going through 3 new fuel filters (thinking I had bad fuel), I stopped putting in a new filter every morning, and found that if I just waited 4 or 5 minutes, it would start and run fine after that. It then runs fine the rest of the day.
After it stalls, it will not start right away. I need to wait a few minutes. I've tried draining the fuel filter bowl also. No luck. I tried a new Cam Positioning Sensor. It seems to be related to temperature. It's been getting down to 30 degrees Fahrenheit the past few mornings. It starts fine and idles fine until the temp gauge just starts to move. Then, the stall happens. My fill-up just prior to this happening was with B20 Bio Diesel. I suspected that for a while. But, I've ran all that fuel through plus 4 or 5 regular diesel tanks through, so I no longer think it was related to that. It do see the check engine light when it stalls. I had a shop read my codes and the only code was bad KAM memory. The mechanic said that code shows up all the time on these engines and not to worry about it.
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My 2005 Toyota matrix started having a lazy start as soon as I had the timing belt changed, and has even failed to start then gone back to lazy starting routine. Is changing the timing belt likely to corrupt the engine timing? Should the mechanic have checked the timing as part of the belt replacement job?
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2005 Toyota Matrix. I know, bad year. Occasionally, I turn the keys in the ignition and I can hear the starter initiating, but the engine doesn't turn over. It's a seldom occurrence, sometimes lasting 5 minutes, sometimes 30, usually 2-3 times a week(car driven 4-5 times daily). Usually best practice for me is to walk away from the car for a time and come back later to try it. Shorter trips and rainy months tend to increase the problem. Took to Toyota dealer: replaced EMU(three times), oxygen sensor and fuel pump. None of which made any impact on problem. Dealership as never actually SEEN the problem, despite holding it for an entire week. Where should I have them poke around next?
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I have a 2005 Toyota Matrix with 250k on it. It has run like a champ so far, with the only problem being an ECM recall last year. I have noticed a few problems recently; the heat blows cold air for quite awhile, and the temperature gauge, while not reading hot, sort of fluctuates between normal and a little warm. When the ECM was being replaced, the dealer said the serpentine belt was overdue for replacement, and I know he's probably right about that. He also said the water pump needed replacing, although I have never seen any signs of leaking. This car has been a champ, and I'd like to try and get another 100k out of it if possible. I'm pretty handy around a car, I've replaced an alternator and radiator before, and I'm working on a limited budget, so if any of this is doable by me, I'm up for it.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Matrix. The radio volume control knob does not change the volume. The volume is just constantly stuck at a set volume (luckily a reasonably soft one). I pulled the knob plastic cap off and sprayed some contact cleaner in there but nothing changed. What caused this problem and what I can try? I have taken the radio out and opened it (changed led bulbs) before so I feel comfortable doing that and tinkering around.
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I have a 2010 Corolla. I am not sure what the problem is but the car shimmys and shakes when i slow down and almost stalls. Its not a brake issue but the brakes need to be replaced. The engine light comes on , stays on for 3 days then goes off then comes on again and there is sometimes a loss of power. I checked the coil packs but they are good . I'm wondering if it's a MAF sensor issue.
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I have a 2012 Corolla CE (base model in Canada) that is completely stock. Took delivery in Dec 2011. Manual transmission. I am finding the car stalls from takeoff way too easily. Have had many manual trans cars before, and have experienced nothing like this.
Can be driving around town all day, no problem, then pulling away from a stop sign or light, and bam, I stall it. The clutch is a at a good peddle position - not too low, not too high.
Taking off on hills is a bit of a nightmare. Will stall easy there too. So I have to over-rev it to make sure I pull away from any stopped position. Passengers have noticed and said, "What are you doing! And I have to explain that if I don't over-rev from a takeoff, it may stall.
Case in point: at a car wash, aiming into the wheel slots to get into the track, at a very slow crawl in 1st and the car encountered resistance when the front tire rubbed the guide, and bam, it stalled.
After 7 months of driving this Corolla, I still can't get the hang of the clutch !! Does it sound like something is not set up correctly? What to check. Basically, it looks like I can't drive a standard.
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2003 Toyota Celica GT-5 speed. I live in South Florida and last summer, when the temp got above 90 and the car was driven for about an hour and half, it would act as if it were out of gas. After pulling over and waiting for about and hour, the car would start up and run fine for about another hour, and then the same thing-stalled. I had fuel filter cleaned, injectors cleaned, did not work. Next mechanic- said the gas cap was bad, replaced it-3 times! Did not work. 3rd Mechanic- Replace coil packs. That was in September. The car ran fine. Drove it to Denver, Pennsylvania-twice and various other road trips. Ran like a champ. Thought, great, its fixed. Didn't think much about it again until two weeks ago.
Was driving to PA and the temp spiked 90 in Virginia and here we go again. 4th Mechanic- replaced the catalytic converter $1,000.00 Assured me 100% that was the problem. Picked it up earlier this week. Drove from Virginia to Jacksonville- 8 hours, no problem until it got hot out and again it began to sputter. I nursed it to the side of the road, sat until dark and drove it 6 hours home in the dark at 80 mph and no problem. It's only when it's hot out and I'm driving further than an hour. I just dropped it off at Mechanic 5. I don't want to replace more parts and continue to have the same problem. Codes read gas cap problem?!?!?
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Every now and then (1-2 times a week) it stalls when I come to a stop. If I catch it before it stalls and rev it over 4K then it is fine. If not, I just need to restart the car. What is causing this sporadic problem?
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I have a 1992 Toyota Camry EL that has been running fine - up until about 3 weeks ago. It has developed a problem of stalling when idling, sometimes, not always. My mechanic has replaced the vacuum hose to the idle air control after finding it was cracked. It kept on stalling after that. Then he replaced the exhaust gas recycling valve assembly, but it still will stall at times. I have noticed that sometimes the engine will rev way up then way down while I'm sitting at a stop light. This morning it stalled while I backed out of a parking spot. Only 95K miles on this car, and I would like to keep it going if possible.
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My camry with 87,00 miles stalls when I take my foot off the break at stoplights. Three certified Toyota mechanics say they can't fix it until it happens again. No one is interested in checking for clogged sensors.
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We have a 2008 Toyota Sequoia with 60k miles. We purchased 100k mile warranty when we bought the car new. The past year or so, the car will stall just after starting. There is no rhyme or reason as to when it will do it (hot, cold, morning, day, night, etc.). It will stall after starting and won't start after several attempts. You wait approximately 10 minutes and it will start just fine. This happens about 2x monthly, sometimes more sometimes less. Toyota has no idea what it is, they tried cleaning up the carbon buildup.
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I have toyota avalon 2001 xls. 3 years ago I had problem with fuel injector and mechanic change it, since than I had problem with stalling car on and off. When ever it is hot or cold or sometime pulling out from drive way. It starts good, just doesn't keep idling. And as I take of foot from gas it stalls. In order to get going I have to use both foot tachnic. One on gas one on brake, for stopping I use brake and keep pressing gas padle, so it doesn't stall. After 2-3 minutes it works fine until next time car sets somewhere for few hours.I did two three times fuel system flush. Change all spark plugs.
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Every once in a while I'll go to start my car and it will stall right away. I'll try again and it will continue to stall. If I give it gas as soon as it starts I can keep it running. Yesterday it did this when I left from work. I held the rpm's at about 1500 and after about 10 seconds the rpm's jump about 200 or 300 and it idled. Sometimes it even idles really low. About 500 rpm. I've done plugs and wires (oem), air filter, PVC, ecu coolant temp sensor, fuel cleaners every 3 or 4 months. This has happened about 6 times in the passed 4 months. Runs great otherwise b
1998 Toyota Camry, 2.2l, Automatic, 125,000 miles
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my 88 camry will start and idle fine however whenever you attempt to accelerate the vechicle the car trys to stall and hesitate badly and will not move. i have changed the fuel filter the spark plugs and plug wires i cannot figure it out. also this started out of nowere the car was driving i had been driving for about ten miles stopped at a red light and that is when the car started doing this.
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I drive a 2002 Toyota Camry. Mostly runs great! If I drive on the freeway at 60-70 mph for 30-45 minutes, when I get off on surface streets the engine starts to die. I have to keep one foot on the brake and one foot on the accelerator to keep the engine >1000rpm. When I park at my destination and park the car for 1-2 hours, everything is fine when I start up again. Happens repeatedly - not always, maybe 95% of the time. Two mechanics can't figure it out and are unable to reproduce the problem after they drive the car on the freeway.
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My beloved 2000 Toyota Echo has started to stall intermittently. It has worked with no problems for the past 100k miles that I've owned it (purchased used with 40k already.) What happens is that while driving I hear a little click, everything shuts down for a second or so, the red idiot light lights up for a few seconds then clears. It's never lasted more than a few seconds and everything goes right back to normal. And it's only happened maybe a dozen times in the last three months. But it makes me nervous since I have to travel over major bridges and through tunnels regularly where I live.
The stalls usually seemed to occur after the engine has heated up, but I just had an exception this morning. Since I noticed the fan never goes on after long trips anymore, I just had the thermostat replaced but that didn't fix.
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