Toyota - Matrix :: 2004 - Headlight Wiring Harness Damaged
Apr 11, 2011
Today I picked up my son over at his girlfriends house, and her father was in the garage. He said he replaced the headlamp bulb, but did not insert it back in place before starting the car ( I guess to check it). The bulb and harness must have touched metal and caused a short at a wire into the harness. The bulb would work if you wiggled the wires.
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I have been tracking down my ABS light and found that the left front wheel speed sensor has had the wiring harness ripped off from behind the front wheel. I have about 2ft of the harness coming off of the actual sensor.
Question is, since I cannot locate any wires that this seems to be able to be connected to, can I simply cut and splice these wires directly into the Tan/Black + Tan/Lt Green wires going straight to my ABS controller?
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My car was blowing heat all the time and after reading some of the intel on this site and running a few checks I decided it was the DCCV. I bought a new one and while changing it i noticed that the old DCCV was burnt up and so was the wiring harness plug. I went ahead and installed the new one hoping the harness would still work. Well it worked great for about a half hour then the ac compressor stopped coming on! I checked the freon and it is good. I believe it is the harness (and yes I checked the fuse). On the harness was a tag with the numbers 3W4T-18C463-BC ...
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I plan on moving the engine/drivetrain from my 1986 F350 460 to my 1996 F250. I also want to move over the 1986's ignition system with a Duraspark 2 setup.
Although I could just cut in the easiest places to remove the wiring for later reuse I am looking for where to make the cuts, what to take and what to scrap. Alternatively I am also asking if there are aftermarket or OEM replacement sets out there are aren't a ton of money. The current harness in the 1986 has been sprayed with engine oil and cooked for 27 years so I am looking at alternative options if there are any.
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A squirrel chewed through some wires in my 2009 Toyota Corolla. My left headlight went dim and my airbag light came on, all within a matter of days. I had the wires repaired and the airbag light never went off. I waited for months until I found out that my airbags won't deploy if I am in an accident. I did some research and from what I gathered until the problem is fixed the light will remain on, (Problem cannot be reset).
I took it to the same guy who fixed the wires .The code that came up was a faulty module. He said since my bags did not deploy the module most likely tripped and he could try to reset it. He tried to do it manually and by the SRS reader with no luck and told me I should go to a shop with a more advanced reader so they could try to reset the module and if that doesn't work go to Toyota.
Can this problem be reset? If it is reset how do I know there still is not a problem that needed to be fixed?
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Any COMPLETE headlight switch wiring diagram? Everything I find online only shows 2-3 wires in each sub connector, nothing with all wires and colors, and what they do. and of course the factory service manuals no longer work on my new computer. the switch and associated wires went up in smoke 2 hours ago, and this truck is my only means of transportation rite now. what i need is headlight wiring with colors so i can temporary hook up a toggle switch to have lights until the new switch and connectors come in next week. I went to pull the switch and connectors out of the parts truck, but of course that does not have fog lights so it uses different switch and connections.
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I will be getting the DDM HID kit and wondering about the necessity for a wiring harness as it seems many are running without it. I am concerned the not having it will somehow damage the car (based on researching HID's in general) but loving the plug and play idea of running without one.
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I have a 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 liter/6 cylinder that has 164K miles. I've kept it in pretty good shape with tons of new parts over the past 3 years or so, and don't want to part with it. However, lately it's been getting horrible gas mileage (about 10 MPG highway), has been running roughly, and smells bad.
Finally took it to the dealer after several attempts by my local, independent shop. Dealer said that the car has been dripping oil down onto the ECU wiring harness for so long that the oil corroded the wires and harness plugs/sockets to the point that they are un-repairable. He said this harness is no longer made, and even if I could find one in a junk yard, it would be "pure luck" to be able to use it and have it work.
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My daughters '09 Corolla was shaking and misfiring occasionally. When she took it to the shop the mechanic had it for a couple days and after many attempts finally reproduced the issue. After several diagnostics tests they determined it to be a damaged cylinder. We had the option of
1. replacing the engine
2. retooling it
I called around to a couple other mechanics and they told me the same thing. One particular mechanic (no affiliated with Toyota) told us that he had heard this happening on both the Camry and the Corolla. Sound like a manufacturer issues if it's been seen frequently.
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The driver's side low beam lamp on my 2006 3.6L stopped working. I bought an H7 from the dealer, but it did not light up. How hard is it to change the wiring harness, and how much should I expect it to cost for the dealer to replace? A local garage said it'd cost $115 to just run a diagnosis on the wiring.
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The AC stopped working on our 1020 Prius. No mechanical problem with the compressor. It turns out that the wiring harness connector to the AC compressor is so badly corroded that the pins are gone. The car has 48,000 miles on it. It has spent it's life in the Seattle area so no harsh weather or a bunch of winter salt on roads to deal with. The dealer says it's due to the humidity here combined with the low miles. The theory is that moisture has the chance to build up in the connection because the car is not driven enough to regularly heat it up and drive the moisture out. Our 2004 Subaru Outback has lived in exactly the same environment since 2004 with pretty much the same rate of miles per year and no electrical issues at all. If that theory is correct, seems like a serious design flaw to me. The dealer's repair estimate is close to $4000!
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Since Toyota didn't have the replacement wiring harness in stock and it took nearly two weeks to get it, and I didn't take a picture of the old one before I removed it, I don't remember where these wires attach!
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Early 2000 vs 2001? Looking for info on replacing wiring harness under the dashboard?
Is there enough clearance to pull the harness without removing the dashboard?
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Transmission fluid migrating into the wiring harness? Just looking for a little education on the issue, solution, and prevention.
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So my haldex stopped working, I found it to be caused by the wiring harness connector on the back of the diff was internally corroded badly... I want to repair this correctly with both a new male and female connector and im going to need new pins for the wire that shorted in the connector.
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the warning light went off in my car, so I took it to Autobarn in Evanston (where I bought the car). people are nice there.
I was told that I need to replace the harness for the fuel injectors. it is all under warranty, so it's fine. but I really would like to know how long should it take? the car is there from yesterday morning, and it's not ready yet. should it take more than 2 days to replace?
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What is that called? Mass air flow sensor wiring harness? I google 2011 vw gti MAF wiring harness, and i get nothing, or crap thats almost not related to what im looking for. While I was installing my intake, I accidently cut half of the wire to my MAF located behind the battery. Why I was cutting, dont ask, i was impatient. Anyways, what is it called? I want to replace my MAF and the wiring that leads to it.
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I have a '09 SE Hatchback. A while ago the switch that tells the car the rear hatch is open stopped working. The trunk light no longer comes on and the factory alarm doesn't know when the hatch is open or closed. The switch and accessible wiring are fine. The lower left tail light and the left license plate light have also stopped working. Both bulbs are fine. This leads me to think that there is a break in the wiring harness somewhere between the front foot well and the rear of the car.
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I don't know where the wiring harness is for the front turn signal.
Im able to get to the bulb (from under the front fender) I took the bulb out and I notice the harness is not on the back cap of the bulb....
Where's the harness???? I need to install the load resistors.
This is for the 1157 flashback bulb
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Where does the 3rd brake light wiring harness plug into on a 2000 GP ? It's just hanging down and I don't see where it plugs into. I'm talking I'm the trunk area.
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My wife's Subaru just died on us. 98 Outback Legacy with quite a bit of miles on it. It was running fine, she took it to the store and then it would not start. It would crank but not fire. Internet searches led me to believe that it was a cam or crankshaft sensor. I go to pull the plug off and the weather beaten wires just snapped....
Turns out my option is splicing a new plug on or replacing the wiring harness. Now, SHOULD we decide to just replace the wiring harness. Is that a rip off?
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