I am working on a 2003 toyota matrix 1zz-fe automatic.
Replaced engine ran good for 20 miles, rough idle as if vacuum leak but no vacuum leaks to be found. If I disconnect and plug the vacuum hose that pulls from the air intake is smooths out and runs good.
Some reading suggests that it is the idle air control any?
I have a misfire in the 6 cylinder on my 98 Chevy c1500 5.7l 350 v8 2wd. I changed the spark plugs and wires, cap and rotor, and changed the spider injector i put the spider injector in from another engine I had. After doing all this the code still comes up. The truck runs fine and except it idles slight rough not bad at all and now it says I have a vacuum leak and while I'm driving you can feel the loss of power. I tried all the ways to do it like on YouTube. What is wrong with my truck?
View 10 RepliesI replaced my EGR valve vacuum check valve, but now started getting sputtering/rough idle. I'm pretty sure the direction of the vacuum check valve is correct, but I tried both ways to be sure and still got the sputtering at idle.
The old vacuum check valve didn't give me the sputter. I only replaced it because it was melted and I'm not sure it was working. I included a photo of it. It's orange and black.
Basically when the car is in D and when i am stopped with the brakes pressed on at a stop sign or a red light, the car starts vibrating and i can see the the rpm going down and then receiving back up and going down again something when the car is in R. its a 2009 toyota corolla le 90k miles. when the headlights are on, the rpm stays high so the car does not vibrate or anything. other than this the car runs perfectly fine.
View 1 RepliesI have a check engine light on the car and in the past it has been bad gas or a vacuum leak. Dealer says on toyota that is not possible.
View 3 Replies4601 DBP, just under 35k on it. At idle, i hear a slight whistling almost like squeaking. I took it to my independent tech and he showed me that if he removed the dipstick for a second while idling, the noise stopped, due to lack of vaccuum, so he believes its in the pcv system. I am still under powertrain and obviously federal emissions 8yr 80,000. Go start your R and listen at idle inside the car for a whistle or squeaking noise that seems like its inside the passenger dash.
View 13 RepliesMy wife has a stock 03 Passat 1.8t.
1. The car seems to shift too soon from 2nd to 3rd and i can hear the turbo drop pressure. It sounds like a quiet blow off 3 or 4 times when it shifts from 2nd to 3rd.
2. There is a vacuum control valve that sits on top of the air cleaner box and it ticks a lot. it has a electric plug going to it.
3. The car has a rough idle while in drive and sometimes shifts hard. I changed plugs, trans flush and filter change.
I would take the car to a VW dealer but the closest one is about a hour away and my wife needs the car.
I've been chasing a problem all summer. Began with crappy batteries dying intermittently. I replaced the batteries, FICM, finally cleaned EGR valve and replaced ICP with pigtail. The problem is still persistent. Basically a rough idle, puff of whit smoke on cold startup, rough running at around 1500 rpms( driving at 50 mph). The ICP was soaked in oil so i was confident replacing it would finally cure my issues. It actually got worse with the rough idle turning to a surging idle and quite rumbly at 50 mph speed. I guess its time to look to injector issues but i thought id check if after replacing icp/ cleaning egr. I also have a slight exhaust leak at turbo out that i can see. The clamp is not seated properly. This after turbo connection to exhaust.
View 1 RepliesI tugged on the little hose on the back pass. side of the engine,(5.4),...
and I could hear the vacuum leak that is apparently causing the erratic idle, and PO171 & PO174 to come up.
I know this hose is hooked to the Charge motion Control Valve on the back of the manifold,..I can't imagine what it does, as it terminates with some kind of plug or check valve??? Haynes say's to remove the entire manifold to get to the CMCV.
I can see it with a mirror,. I am thinking maybe long needle nose from Harbor freight,...bend the tip short,..maybe be able to change it out?????
It has been since the 80's that I have attempted to do any work on a vehicle. How do I find a vacuum leak and where is my vacuum canister. I am assuming that it is a vacuum leak for anytime my engine has a load on it the air stops coming out of the dash vents and goes to the defrost vents. I have an 2000 F150 with the large engine with about 112,000 miles.
View 11 RepliesThis has been on going for the past year. The blend works fine. Fan speed works correctly. The selection for ac, max ac, etc., will only allow air through defrost vents. Vacuum leak?
1998 4.6 auto super cab
I had my fuel system cleaned by the dealership last weekend and I feel like I gained 50hp+ ... Now its throwing a P0171 about a week and a half later. My computer also listed P0174 under the pending codes or whatever the section was.
2003 F150 5.4L ... I cleaned the MAF sensor a couple weeks back which stopped a rough idle and I have put some 300+ miles on it since. about 200 miles since the fuel system cleaning.
I got home and popped the hood and it sounded like a vacuum cleaner. Guess it is a vacuum leak. I might need to stop using this ford house. I swear this is the second time there was a vacuum leak(I think, first time they said it was spark gap issue). I'll be heading back in the morning now.
I have a 2003 Explorer with the 4.0 K motor. It has a vacuum leak and the check engine light will come on from time to time. My work buddy has a high end computer and it showed that the driver side bank was running lean. The computer showed the O2 sensors to be working fine, and I replaced the PCV valve. All other vacuum line appear to be in good condition and I tried the spray test with the break cleaner with the motor running. This is leading me to believe the air intake gaskets where due for replacement. Here is my problem, I can not get the last bolt out of the plenum. The one on the driver side up against the fire wall. I tried to remove the cowl in order to get a straight shot at it but I can not get the seem seal to break free.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 corolla s 1.8 liter. A couple months I started having a rough idle. It will drop below 600 for a second right at the point of stopping and then raise back up. While sitting at a light it will drop down and shake and then go back up. Had a couple people look at it including Toyota and they say it's normal. It did not do it a couple months ago so I know it's not normal.
View 12 RepliesIn the past, I've had the common issues of vacuum leaks causing issues as evident from the defrost/ac and then finding busted vacuum lines. Changed out and everything fine for a few years. Now, i dont have 4wd but i dont have the tell tale vacuum leak signs. Also, even if i manually engage the hubs, still no 4wd.
I try to listen for the transfer case to engage when i switch from 2wd to 4wd, I think I hear it engaging, but to be honest the 7.3 makes so much racket Im not positive that Im hearing it, or at least not hearing it the way I "think" that i heard it in the past. I seem to recall a distinctive clunk when engaging, now its barely audible if at all. Now when I switch to 4-Low, there is the distinctive sound, and it does goes into low drive, just that its only 2wd-low, still no front wheel action.
I have never had any issues before other than the vacuum leaks, have never had reason to dig into the transfer case for any reason. The only time it has ever been touched was last summer when i had the BTS installed and all they did was remove and replace.
Do I finally need to either rebuild or replace my hubs? Is it possible not to have 4wd even with hubs manually engaged? Or is there an issue with the t-case? Or is there something else going on? I have access to a lift to attempt "driving" while all wheels off the ground, its just not mine and its a tight fit and a pain to get my truck on it.
I'm getting the p1131 error on my 2000 xlt f150 5.4l. I know it's usually a vacuum leak on the pcv hosing, which I did have at the back and replaced as well as other softer joining sections(3 to be exact lol), but I'm still getting this error. Changed out my plugs and cops(as they needed it) and the back two plugs on both bank 1 and 2(plugs 4&8) were both white! Since this is an obvious indication of a lean burning cylinder can I make the assumption my most likely problem is dirty fuel injectors on those cylinders?
View 13 RepliesI've had this problem for a little while now, my 97' F150 V8 4.6L, has been running real loud and heavy. When it starts up it sounds like a race car. It finally shot me a code for P0171 - Bank 1 (passenger side) running too lean. From what I've read, this is most likely a vacuum leak but I don't know too much about it.
A couple of things I've noticed while driving it around:
1. If you are in the engine compartment while its running, you smell the excess gas on the passenger side of the truck.
2. The exhaust also smells really heavy
3. The loud and heavy running is mainly when accelerating, if I maintain a constant speed at for a little while it almost starts to run normal. Cruising down the highway its almost just as quiet as before the issue
4. Engine coolant heats up much more quickly, but doesn't get above operating temperature (read from tuner, never above 200 degrees)
In response to the problem I replaced both the O2 sensors closest to the engine and the PCV and elbow. No change. Have a fuel filter ready to install, but for some reason I don't think that is it either, as it would probably effect both bank 1 and 2.
Like I said I'm not too well versed in the vacuum system but if any of these symptoms stand out I'd love to hear your thoughts.
I am having problems with a 2003 Ford F 150 with a 4.2 L V6. The problem is that it is giving me code errors that would indicate bad O2 sensors. I replaced both the upper and lower O2 sensors, and still I get the same codes. I was told by the mechanic with the computer reader that this usually means a bad vacuum seal. He suggested looking for bad hoses, but did not offer much more than that. How to proceed?
View 2 RepliesLately I would be stopped at a red light and my rpms would drop to 600. And when I turn my headlights on the rpms go up and the rough idle stops. Should I check it out if so what should I check? My corolla has 49.5k.
View 1 RepliesI changed the battery this morning in my 2009 Pontiac Vibe GT with the 2.4 and ended up with a rough idle. I was not having any of these issues before the change. How to adapt the throttle body?
View 2 RepliesHow to diagnose a vacuum leak without a vacuum leak diagnostic tool.
My ESOF won't engage, AC/heat blowers default to defrost - classic symptoms. And while we can leave without AC/heat, we really need the ability to engage 4x4 low, especially as we get higher into the Andes and the roads become rough.