Toyota - Hilux :: Brake Light Keeps Coming - Handbrake Sliding Out
Jul 19, 2011
After I release my handbrake and drive off, the vibration of driving causes my handbrake to slide out just enough to trigger the brake light to come on. The brake works fine I checked at the drums. It just slides out enough to trigger this light. As I drive I have to keep pushing it in, the light goes off but after a bit it goes on again and I keep pushing it in, evidently it keeps sliding out enough to keep triggering the light. I tried spraying the release and down the chute, sliding it in and out, with 3 and 1 oil and WD 40 but nothing seems to stop this annoying problem. I know there's nothing wrong with it but I can't get it to stop and I know it's just the vibration of driving that causes it to slip out just enough to trigger it.
Next month I have the NJ State inspection, and if they see the light, they're going to fail it when there's really nothing wrong with it.
1986 Toyota Hilux half ton 5 speed stick with the 22 R engine over 225K
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I have a 1994 Toyota Surf Hilux. Lately the manuel gear has quit shifting while the car is on. I can correct it by shutting the car off and then it shifts perfectly. This started out as an intermittent problem but is getting increasingly worse. It happens every day now. Trust me, this is very dangerous not to be able to shift while in African traffic. I don't want to take it to a mechanic here because they aren't usually trustworthy - they will fix all kinds of problems that I don't have and I can't afford to have my car tied up for weeks with no results. I have a friend who might be able to fix it if we can ascertain the problem but it is pretty confusing as to what the problem might be. The clutch was replaced a year ago.
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I bought a Toyota Tercel and the handbrake cables were seized so I changed them both, but they're still not locking the wheels... I've tried to adjust them with the nut beside the lever but it didn't work. I changed the brakes on both rear wheels.
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I've been trying to locate the source of the noise that is coming under the car. Specifically below the handbrake. Like something is lose, took the car to a shop to have it inspected, checked the exhaust, and there was nothing there, all clamps there and screws.
It only happens most of the time when the car is cold and it feels all the way from the hand brake to the stick shift. Sounds like a rattle like something is about to go off from the car but I cant imagine what could be. Couldn't replicate the noise at the shop, only when you are driving and the car is in inclined it rattles really bad until the car gets back to the normal position. Specifically in 1st gear .
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The issue is I drove a few km's with the handbrake engaged in my moms 2nd gen matrix. I reasoned that it was showing me the exclamation mark and beeping to tell me the fuel was REALLY low, so I assumed it was going so hesitant to go to save gas...............
I drove a few km's slowly, and when I got to my street I stepped on the gas as a "hell yeah I made it", only to come out the car to see the rear brakes smoking all over the place.
Only about 20 minutes after I came home I realized what happened, (don't even ask what my reasoning for breaks smoking was this time) went and disengaged the handbrake, but now about 5 hours later I just saw my mom leaving in the car and there was a slight creaking sound coming from what seemed to be the rear.
Could the handbrake being engaged for another 20-30 minutes after the breaks getting so hot from all the friction potentially WELD the drums to the other part of the brakes? I hope I didn't mess up the wheels or the parts they are sitting on.
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What the problem is? still drive-able?
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I having the ABS and handbrake light on at dashboard all the time and I had sent my car to scan error code and error code as follow:
1) C1200
2) C2308
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I have a 99 Toyota Sienna with an automatic sliding door that has failed. Cost to repair is high $$$. Would like to disable the motor and automatic mechanism and make it a regular manual sliding. Can it be done? If so need a repair shop?
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I have a 2007 Toyota Sienna and the passenger sliding door will not slide on its own. You have to tug on the door to get it to engage. The repair shop said the door needs a new actuator. How hard is replacing the actuator on sliding passenger door?? My brother thinks he might be able to do it???
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I have a 2002 Toyota sienna XLE, 95k miles. A few weeks ago I replaced the battery with a DieHard. Immediately after this, the right sliding door stopped working. A few days later the left side stopped working. Neither sliding door works in the manual mode, child proof feature is disabled. Fuses are good. Both doors click when any associated switch is activated but don't open. It was suggested by an owner of an older Sienna that the auto door computer needed resetting. Worth a try. His procedure involved disconnecting the negative side of the battery, waiting 3-5 minutes, reconnecting battery, use the key fob remote to open a door and then close it using the fob. Wait 10 seconds open and close same as before, doing this a total of 3 times. It didn't work, door clicks won't open. Tried again same results. This makes sense and my thinking goes that perhaps the sequence is different for a newer model.
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I been hearing a clicking noise coming from the back right side when I brake. The mechanic said this is not the case and has replaced the right wheel hub, and front axle, and the struts. He is searching for the noise as the noise seems to shift- it really is odd. The mechanic did pay for the axle as it is driving him crazy not to find the problem. I have ABS brakes and this is a 4cyl with almost 200,000 miles.
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The brake lights come on in the rear after i park the car. it appears the brake pedal is not springing back for enough to disengage the brake lights. It does not do this all the time, but seems to have start doing this at night when it gets colder. I can look outside and see my brake lights on, then go off, then come back on. It has made the battery go dead twice in the last week. is this a easy fix or something more complicated. this has nothing to do with parking brake, i normally do engage parking brake since i park on a flat surface road in front of my home.
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05 Toyota Tacoma without traction control but has ABS. A few weeks ago I noticed the brake pedal felt mushy. I had my wife step on the brakes with the engine running. I could hear a swoosh of air coming from the rear of the engine near the firewall but more towards the passenger side. I did the following tests:
With engine off pump brake pedal and it built preassure and stayed firm.
With engine RUNNING held foot on brake and turned engine off. The brake pedal moved slowly to the floor.
Check the check valve in the brake booster and its good.
So, I replaced the Brake booster, bleed the air out of the master cylinder and bleed the brakes. Now it feels great for about the first 20min of driving but then goes soft again. and I'm still getting the swoosh of air escaping from somewhere in the same place as before.
I'm wondering if I have a vacuum leak somewhere before it goes into the brake booster? the connection is good where the vacuum hose comes from the engine to the brake booster. OR should I replaced the master cylinder?
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Car came out of the car wash and when I turned it on it started to beep rapidly and brake light came on. I moved the car but brakes were not working. I had to get the car towed. First time I ever encountered the problem.
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I have a 1997 toyota tacoma. The truck runs great. Last year I replaced the front calipers and breakpads. I drive the truck maybe 3,000 miles per year. The issue I have is that the brake light will not turn off. I checked the hand brake and it works fine. The switch on the handbrake is fine too. The really unusual thing is that randomly it will turn off. usually around 30-40MPH or when I have slammed on the brake. The brake fluid is fine. Is there a sensor in the rear on the rear pads that I may need to replace?
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I've recently noticed that the right brake light on my 2003 corolla is not working. When I turn on the light, all the bulbs in the rear right seems to light up (except turn signal of course). when I pressed on the brake, the right brake bulb doesn't get brighter like the left one. Two questions:
1. Am I crazy when I see the brake light bulb turn on with other bulbs (i.e. is it suppose to be on when light is turn on and just get brighter when brake is pressed)?
2. Is this a burnt out bulb that I can easily replace myself or potentially a wiring problem that I may need a mechanic for?
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I have a 1996 camry and the break light don't come on non of them. I change the switch under the break pedal and it didn't work. I change the fuse but when I did so it spark and blew the fuse. Is there a reason for this? where should i go next with this issue.
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I own a 2005 Toyota prius and when I turn on the car, all the lights on the dashboard turn on but when the e-brake won't turn on when I put the e-brake on.
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I was driving when my 1993 Toyota Pickup's brake and battery light came on simultaneously. As far as I could tell, nothing changed in the way the car was handling, nor any smoke, smells, or sounds. I was about an hour from home, so I continued on my way. After about half an hour, the check engine light popped on. I still didn't notice any change in the car.
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Recently I had a new clutch put in my car (192,000 miles on it) at the toyota dealership. My car has never been the same. It has not pep to it and bucks now. I brought it back when the engine light came on and they said I needed new spark plugs (my husband replaced them with non toyota ones and the car ran fine) so I said fine. The light went off but car still didn't run better. The light has come back on, we found out how it get it to go off and put some cleaner in the gas tank. After 2 days the light came back on again and the car still runs poorly. I don't want to go back to toyota since they messed my car up in the first place.
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I have a 2002 Toyota camry and for the last few or so, the check battery light has been coming on and off. it stays on for a day and then goes off for a day or so. I have had my mechanic check the battery, the alternator and he couldn't find anything wrong with either of them. the alternator is working good, the battery tested at 730cca and 13.5volts. what is wrong and is it safe to keep driving this car?
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