Toyota - Highlander :: Dull Knock From Rear With Acceleration
May 19, 2012
My 2009 Toyota Highlander Hybrid makes an intermittent noise when I accelerate from a stop or decelerate to a stop. My best description of the sound is a sharp thud or a dull knock (maybe a dull pop). It happens almost exclusively when I accelerate from a full stop or from moving very slowly. A similar sound happens when I decelerate to a full or near stop. I'm very certain that the sound is coming from the rear suspension or drive train of the vehicle, but I have not proven it. When I'm moving along at normal speeds, I don't hear any sounds and the car feels solid. By pure luck, going over the right sort of bumps causes a somewhat similar noise, but that might be a read herring.
Trips to two separate Toyota dealers have not fixed the issue since it is not easily repeatable. The first dealer tried tightening some bolts. The second replaced one of the front(!) struts, tightened bolts and lubricated things. I have managed to reproduce the issue for the second dealer, but the noise wasn't persistent enough for them to track it down.
This type of SUV should be regarded as all-wheel-drive, but power is mostly delivered by the front tires. The rear tires are driven by an independent electric motor and differential. The front and rear drive trains operate separately; the only mechanical connection between them is the rest of the vehicle. I'm wondering if the electric motor could be slipping a little bit.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Highlander that sort of chokes. At random times while driving, the car hesitates on acceleration, chokes a little, and then continues to accelerate. It is an automatic transmission but it feels like I can feel the shift in gears. usually happens at low speeds (20 mph). no matter time of day or warm up period. I have been having regular maintenance at dealer. there was a caution note that I would need spark plugs replaced... is this it? a result o f needing new spark plugs? or something else?
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During very smooth acceleration at any speed, steering vibration is felt which seems to come from bad engine support absorbers. Dealer said this is normal due to powerful V6 engine. Also hear disturbing exhaust sound when accelerating. Wonder if these conditions are related to steering vibration?
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Purchased a 2010 AWD Highlander, There is a whining noise coming from the rear end, possibly the differential. Is this normal in all Highlanders?
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Ever since I got a brake job, my brake lights have come on, all 8 of them. Traction Control, ABS, Brake, etc. Every once in a while they will go off and be normal for a day or two then they will come back on. The service center that did the brake job said everything looks good, it must be a faulty brake actuator.
The brakes work fine although on starting I have to remove my foor from the petal and then reapply it to move the transmission from park to drive. When on the highway doing 70 mph or so, when I take my foot off the accelerator I hear a pop coming from under the rear of the car mostly on the passenger side. In about 5 minutes, I'll hear it again. It sounds like pressure is being built up than all of a sudden released with a pop.
Actuator replacement and I rather not go through the expense if it is air in the brake line of a faulty sensor.
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Just purchased a used 2008 HH - about 85000 miles. Seems to work perfectly except there is a very loud hum that sounds that it is coming from the rear. Starts to be noticeable at 30 MPH and gets louder up to about 55, and then isn't as noticeable, perhaps due to normal road noise.
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I have a 2005 Highlander that had repeated rear brake noise problem after the dealership serviced the brake in May this year. The sound was like dragging or grinding. After that, I brought my car back but the noise came up every time in 3-7 days. Here is the of the service record from the dealership:
5/31/2011: initial maintenance. Rotor resurfaced, pad replaced
6/17/2011: Adjustment and lubrication.
7/13/2011: Replaced the pad.
8/20/2011: Technician could not hear the noise during drive test. Ticket withdrawn.
8/26/2011: Tighten e-brake, lubrication.
Tech told me the left and right brakes were not balanced. I recorded the noise in the following Youtube video: [URL] .....
Turn volume up and notice the last two stops. What I should say to the dealership service? I plan to take the car back in a few days.
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So, I have a new neighbor that owns a 2010 Toyota Highlander (out of warranty). Recently, the vehicle has had a on and off "rattle" type of sound that comes from the rear of the vehicle. He has tried to get it into the dealership to take a look, but since it comes and goes, it's hard to duplicate it at times.
Anyway, we noticed that if you put the seats down (60/40 split) then push them up with some force the "rattle" stops for awhile. So, we are thinking that this sound is coming from the rear seats. What to check? Could it not be "latching" properly? It seems solid when you sit in it and rock, or if you push/pull on them.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Highlander. The rear right turn signal and break light don't work when I apply the brakes. When I use the turn signal or brakes while driving or parked there is no problem, but once I apply the break the back right side does not work. The light bulbs also burn out faster on that side.
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My 2001 Corolla w/80k developing a considerably loud spark knock/engine pinging noise under acceleration. It throws no codes but pings like crazy and it never used to. It's happened gradual over a long period of time. I've cleaned the throttle body and have done all regular tune up items with no improvement. It doesn't ping at all on 93 octane, does some on 89 and terribly so on 87. Why is this? Does the 93 octane just act a a richer mixture of fuel to alleviate the ping? Should this sign point me in the direction that it's definately a lean issue causing the pinging?
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It's now been just about 2 weeks with the new car! but I've noticed a few little things that I'll take it in for before the warranty runs out...one of them is a noticeable dull clunk in the right rear...it also hear it when i go over small the medium sized bumps on the left side...sway bar link? over big bumps i don't seem to hear it...
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I just replaced all 4 struts on my 04 Camry. The car has 87,000 on it. I went with the Monroe OESpectrum struts and new strut mounts (Monroe). Springs looked fine, the rubber spring seats were fine as well and the bellows, so reused those items.
I now have a noise in the rear end that I did not have before. It sounds like it is coming from the lower part of the car and is not metal sounding. It is a very dull clunk when going over bumps in the road and is coming from both sides.
I replaced the sway bar bushings a couple years ago. I checked those and there is no play and appear to be fine. Also checked the sway bar links and they seem fine to me, but not sure what makes those bad. Torqued what I could. Used an electric impact wrench on the strut nuts and could not torque that because the rod spins.
I am taking it in on Monday for an alignment and to have the shop see if they can figure out the noise. Is it possible that the new parts could be binding and the alignment may take care of it? I have doubled checked my work and everything appears to be on correct.
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I have less than 1000km on my new 2014 XTR SC. I had an AS 2.5/1.5" kit installed and a wheel alignment. There is a dull clunk in the rear when driving slowly over rough terrain(dirt roads n potholes). It happens occasionally when taking turns at lower speeds too. A friend who is a mechanic installed the kit and its the 4th kit he has installed for me. Never an issue.
The truck had to go to the dealer to have the remote start installed and they investigated the clunk and tightened up some nuts and bolts and its still there. They blamed the leveling kit and said its normal sometimes. This is definitely not normal! I've searched and can't find anything.
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About a year ago our headlights were getting dim . Our dealer referred us to a company that had a process to polish the lights and restore their brightness. Now after a year or so the lights are again cloudy and need attention. I purchased a kit but haven't tried it yet because of winter in Wisconsin.
I've also read that toothpaste can be used to clean and polish the lens on headlights.
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Looking to buy a used bmw x3 (75K miles) 2006 model versus a toyota highlander limited hybrid 2010 with 65K miles. The bmw is priced at 14K, while the highlander is priced at 26K. Both cars drive good, clean records. However the hybrid I fear has hidden costs.
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I am trying to replace the alternator. I have removed the top pivot bolt, the lower bolt going through the tensioning device, and the bolt that adjusts the tension. The thing still won't come out. I can move it up and down (like it is pivoting on the pivot bolt) but it won't come out from between the area that the pivot bolt slides into. Tried using a large screwdriver to pry it out but it doesn't budge.
Is there a secret to remove this that I haven't discovered?
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In January I purchased a front wheel drive 2010 Toyota Highlander with 23,000 miles. When driving just over 60 mph, there is a fairly loud humming sound at the back of the car (seems to be more toward the right rear). The dealership replaced the LEFT rear wheel bearing (they said the right bearing was fine) and performed road force balancing on the new Yokohama Geolander tires I purchased with the car. Unfortunately, the annoying humming sound has not gone away.
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Everything electric works fine, windows, radio and all. The car will not start. New battery, still no start, not even trying. Put a new starter on and still nothing, but when you arc it you can hear it free spinning next to the fly wheel.... what to do next? some people have said it needs to be shimmed, how would I go about trying that?
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I have a '06 Toyota Highlander that blows hot air from the vents when the controls are in the following positions:
- Temperature anywhere in the cool to cold range
- Fan on at any speed
- Diverter in any position
- A/C OFF.
The air comes out hot after I make a sharp turn in either direction. If I turn the fan off I get fresh, cool air from the vents regardless of the turns.
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I just bought (ten days ago) a 2009 Highlander Hybrid Limited, hoping to take advantage of the very good MPG advertised by Toyota. The vehicle has 70,000 miles and in pretty good condition.
The problem is that I have a terrible 13-14 MPG. I did some research and I can not find what is wrong. I do everything by the book. No abrupt acceleration or braking. No AC. I drive only in city.
The batteries levels are good according to what I can see on screen.
I am a little worried because even for a regular gas engine Highlander 13 MPG is pretty bad !
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Wife is 5' tall and can't see out the windshield sitting in the passenger seat. No ability to raise seat, can go back and forth but not up. We had a 2010 Highlander SE and did not have this problem. Now she hates this car.
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