Recently replaced 2 burned out brake lights on the drivers side. Discovered brake lights still don't work. Passenger side works fine. Exchanged bulbs but no luck. Brake lights still don't work. All running lights work as well as backup lights and turn signals. Just can't get the two drivers side lights to work.
View 4 RepliesMy 2004 Toyota Highlander with 84K miles has been diagnosed with a seized front driver side brake caliper with worn brake pad (1/32). I had recall work done a few days ago at the dealership and this was discovered afterward during the "complimentary" multi-point check-up. - You know, the long laundry list of recommended work they try to sell you on. Of course the brake work is actually necessary.
Since the vehicle was just inspected 2 months ago at our local shop, my husband suggested I take it back there to verify the diagnosis and see what that mechanic would recommend. That mechanic confirmed and showed me the seized caliper/worn pad, which, by the way, was functioning well in mid January at inspection, and measured 7/32. This mechanic recommends replacing both calipers, pads, turning rotors. There was no indication of a problem with the RF caliper, but he says it's just a good idea to replace it so we would avoid having another problem in the future.
I want to ask everyone's opinion regarding replacement of just the bad caliper vs. both. Are we getting ripped off as far as the estimate and is the flush necessary? Also, is this issue typical in the first place, and what causes a brake caliper to seize? We've had several other vehicles driven many more miles than my Highlander and never experienced a seized caliper.
History - So my A/C was going out about 6 months ago. It would come in and out with cold air until eventually it just stopped all cold air and was only hot. Then the control knobs broke. I took it in and they told me I had to replace the control unit and that would fix all the issues. Well I got it back and the A/C was still blowing hot air (even though the knobs were now working).
So I took it back in and they said they couldn't find anything wrong and it must be this hairline crack that was leaking freon. they said they couldn't find the crack but loaded it up with freon and said i would have to 'wait it out' could be years could be a few weeks, they just didn't know. well, it worked for awhile but here i am in 102 degree heat and when I turn on the A/C in the really hot car the passenger side quickly blows cold air and the driver side takes about 20 minutes before it finally gets cold. What gives? I do not have dual temperature controls.
We have a 2003 Highlander which was having trouble changing from cld to warm air. We found posts about the common problem of the broken wire on the control panel behind the temperature control knob. I believe I was able to repair that by replacing the three wires on panel. The temperature changes from hot to cold now. However the air on the drivers side is luke warm. The passengers side is cold. We have had the freon charged and that hasn't worked.
I have tried adjusting the temperature on the floor heat, vents, and defrost and the temperature is split in the middle.I even looked under the dash shining a flashlight into the evaporator box through the floor vent and can see the blend doors and actuators moving from hot to cold and floor to vent. My wife is not a fan of being hot and I am not a fan of my wife being hot headed. Could there be a blend door on the drivers side that is partially blocked or out of sync. Can I get to it without removing the dash or evaporator box.
The brake light on the driver side doesn't work. The center window brake light works as does the passenger's side brake light. My first thought was the bulb, but when I just have my tail lights on it works just fine. From what I can tell it's obviously the same blub so I don't know where to go from here. The fuse that controls the brake light also controls all of the brake lights so I don't think that would be it since only one side is out. Trying to avoid going to the dealership if I can.
View 7 RepliesLate last night as I was puling up to park in front of a dark restaurant, I turned off my headlights so I would not blind the people inside. This is a 2010 Prius III.
When I left and tried to turn them back on, only the drivers side parking light (the small white one above the headlight) and side marker light worked. Passenger side nothing works, however on both sides the high beams do work.
I'm on my way out and someone on the road just told me that my brake lights are both out. My rear running lights do work. Is this a fuse problem? What is the number where this fuse is located?
View 1 RepliesEngine light, VSC and TRAC off lights come on. Local garage says code P1201, go to transmission shop. My code book says Injector circuit open/shorted cylinder #1. Is this still a transmission shop issue? I am terrified of dealerships, can I drive it a few more days, short distances whilst I decide who will dupe me over more?
View 2 RepliesThe power brake booster on our 2007 Toyota Highlander is broken and needs to be replaced. We asked our mechanic whether there are any brake-related recalls for our Make/Model/Year, and he said 'no'. Is this just our particular bad luck, or have others experienced similar problems with this SUV? It was scary. My husband was driving on the highway and needed to make a sudden stop due to a traffic slowdown. The brakes didn't respond, and he needed to slam down the brakes several times to get the brakes to work. No warning, the brakes just suddenlt stopped working.
View 8 RepliesI have a Highlander 2013, for some reason I always use the Headlight switch on the Auto and today my lights were never turned on. I have to start using the switch to turn on the lights manually. I did not check during the day, but I also think that my daylight running lights are not working either? Does that have a fuse or something? What can I check?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2007 Toyota Highlander (130K miles)Recently, the A/C stopped working.
What happens: 1) With the car running and A/C off, turn on A/C2) A/C starts blowing and begins to be cool3) About 10 seconds later, the LED on the A/C control knob starts to blink and stops blowing cool air
A few diagnosis items:
1) Between steps 1 and 2 above, putting a PSI gauge on the low side port shows about 40 psi, which I believe to be normal.
2) After step 3, the PSI gauge shows about 130 psi, which I think is way too high.
3) Replaced magnetic clutch relay with no improvement.
4) When step 3 occurs, a light grinding noise occurs but then stops.
5) No diagnosis codes on the OBD2 port.
I have a 2005 Highlander that had repeated rear brake noise problem after the dealership serviced the brake in May this year. The sound was like dragging or grinding. After that, I brought my car back but the noise came up every time in 3-7 days. Here is the of the service record from the dealership:
5/31/2011: initial maintenance. Rotor resurfaced, pad replaced
6/17/2011: Adjustment and lubrication.
7/13/2011: Replaced the pad.
8/20/2011: Technician could not hear the noise during drive test. Ticket withdrawn.
8/26/2011: Tighten e-brake, lubrication.
Tech told me the left and right brakes were not balanced. I recorded the noise in the following Youtube video: [URL] .....
Turn volume up and notice the last two stops. What I should say to the dealership service? I plan to take the car back in a few days.
I have a 2002 Toyota Rav 4 which just hit about 58,000 miles. Never really had too many problems until about a week ago. For a while, one of the brake lights wasn't working and just a few days ago, both of them went out. The regular tail-lights work as do the reverse lights, just not the brake lights.
View 2 RepliesBrake and Revers lights not working on 1999 Toyota Corolla? I have checked fuses and wire connections with no results. My brake and reverse lights just stopped working yesterday and I don't know what else to check.
View 1 RepliesMy driver side brake light is not working. I noticed it yesterday after changing my front brake pads. The bulb won't light up. I changed the bulb and didn't fix it. I checked fuses and all were good. The running light and turn signal both work on the tail light and the passenger tail light is fine and everything works on it. A couple hours after I noticed the driver side tail brake light wasn't working the hatch brake light went out. Not sure if it was just bad timing for the bulb to go out or not. I think I may just need to get a new wire harness for it. Not sure.
View 1 Replies1994 Honda Prelude has 1 out of the 4 brakes that are working. Only the driver side brake is working. I used a IR thermometer and after 30 min of city driving the driver side was at 200+ degrees. The 3 other wheels were at 40-48 degrees. What could be wrong?
View 16 RepliesMy brake lights on the drivers side do not come on when braking, however, the regular nighttime lights are fine. Does this mean the probem is the brake light switch? The right side brake lights are fine. Where is the brake light switch and how do I access it?
View 2 RepliesThe driver side rear marker light, stop & tail lights as well as the front park light have stopped working...its not any of the bulbs..just wondering if it is a fuse or a grounding issue? i cant seem to locate a fuse for the driver side lights... Where to begin looking for a ground problem (assumed to be the issue)
View 2 RepliesChanged turn signal, Now driver side running lights and head light don't work. Never mind it was a blown fuse.
View 1 RepliesPassenger side brake light is not working. Bulb is fine. Seems that the "plunger action" in the socket may be lacking. I put some WD in there.....worked for a day or so....now not working. Can I replace this socket or do I need an entire lens assembly?
View 2 RepliesMy driver side headlight and tail lights are not working. The brake lights and turn signals still work. I checked all of the fuses and light bulbs nothing is blown. It did rain yesterday and it looks like some moisture got into the driver side headlight, not like a pool of water just some condensation on the lens.
View 7 Replies