Toyota - Highlander :: At Start Up Screeching Noise For A Minute Or Two
Sep 2, 2014
Whenever I start up my 2001 Highlander it makes an awful screeching noise that sometimes lasts up to a minute or two long! It doesn't just happen when I start it too. Sometimes I'll be just driving along and it will start screeching like a bat out of hell and quite a minute later. Also, sometimes when I accelerate quickly it will briefly ( a little peep) screech. I thought it was my fan belts so I got both of them replaced about a month ago and it temporarily fixed the problem. About a week or so after they were replaced, I put the key in the ignition and Squeak...
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I drive a 2007 Toyota Highlander, 4 cylinder/automatic/116,000 miles. I've noticed that when it gets really in the Winter I have a problem. Here is what I've noticed: I will start up the engine and let it run for 1-2 minutes (at start up idle the engine has a loud hum and after a minute or two it finally levels off). Once I start driving and gets to about 3rd it seems to get stuck there and doesn't change up until a minute later, all the while emitting a loud hum. It will eventually change up to the next gear if I wait long enough, or if I slow down and start again from first gear, or when the engine finally warms up. Other than that the vehicle runs great. I just had the battery replaced a week ago. What should I have checked first?
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Everything electric works fine, windows, radio and all. The car will not start. New battery, still no start, not even trying. Put a new starter on and still nothing, but when you arc it you can hear it free spinning next to the fly wheel.... what to do next? some people have said it needs to be shimmed, how would I go about trying that?
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My Highlander with only 72K miles has an intermittent problem. I start it and it immediately dies. To get it going, as soon as engines starts I push and hold accelerator at about 1500 rpm for about 3 minutes, then ease off accelerator and generally no problem for the rest of the day. Been to regular mechanic with it twice, but car doesn't do it then. May go several weeks without this happening, then will have a series of these episodes. Not battery. Not throttle body. Mechanic doesn't think it's the type of gas being used.
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Purchased a 2010 AWD Highlander, There is a whining noise coming from the rear end, possibly the differential. Is this normal in all Highlanders?
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I have about 72k miles on my Highlander, which we purchased certified through a dealer in May. At the time of purchase, we noted an intermittent rattling noise, but didn't think much of it. It has increased in frequency and in volume since that time. I have had it to the dealership four times now to have it fixed. They have replaced the heat shield on the exhaust, tightened my license plates and today replaced my catalytic converter (at no cost to me) Imagine my dismay upon driving home and again hearing the rattle. When they decided the rattle was related to the catalytic converter, they were essentially banging around my car with the handle of a hammer and trying to replicate the rattle...needless to say, I am a little concerned that the techs are unable to determine the root of the problem, much less fix it. It seems to be correlated to some degree with a certain RPM. It sounds as if something is loose somewhere, but that place is a mystery to at least four different techs (all of whom I have driven around so that they could hear the sound and who still cannot identify it).
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I have a highlander 2004. When I bought the car (used) I did not noticed a noise coming from the top (more) from top driver side Windshield. the sound is more of "fffff" as I drive faster the noise is more, and seems to be of closer to wind sound. But when you put hand against it, you do not feel any wind. And there is no leak/water coming in. Toyota mechanic looked at it, and came up with no obvious answers. Concluded that it is not Toyota windshield.
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When I put my 2008 Highlander in reverse and put on the brakes, it makes a very loud and obvious clicking noise. What this might be? I'm very concerned.
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I have a 2005 Highlander that had repeated rear brake noise problem after the dealership serviced the brake in May this year. The sound was like dragging or grinding. After that, I brought my car back but the noise came up every time in 3-7 days. Here is the of the service record from the dealership:
5/31/2011: initial maintenance. Rotor resurfaced, pad replaced
6/17/2011: Adjustment and lubrication.
7/13/2011: Replaced the pad.
8/20/2011: Technician could not hear the noise during drive test. Ticket withdrawn.
8/26/2011: Tighten e-brake, lubrication.
Tech told me the left and right brakes were not balanced. I recorded the noise in the following Youtube video: [URL] .....
Turn volume up and notice the last two stops. What I should say to the dealership service? I plan to take the car back in a few days.
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I bought a remfg denso starter for my 2000 toyota tacoma prerunner 3.4L V6. I spent hours without success trying to get the old starter out. Brought it to a shop and had the new one installed. When I do a cold start, there is a screech at the end when the engine catches that sounds exactly like starting a car that is already running. This happens on cold starts only. Warm starts work fine. Due to the fact that I bought this part separate, having to pay to have a new one installed again is annoying to say the least. I spent another 4 hours today trying to get it out without success. See YouTube link for video of the noise. It's actually the quietest one yet.
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So, I have a new neighbor that owns a 2010 Toyota Highlander (out of warranty). Recently, the vehicle has had a on and off "rattle" type of sound that comes from the rear of the vehicle. He has tried to get it into the dealership to take a look, but since it comes and goes, it's hard to duplicate it at times.
Anyway, we noticed that if you put the seats down (60/40 split) then push them up with some force the "rattle" stops for awhile. So, we are thinking that this sound is coming from the rear seats. What to check? Could it not be "latching" properly? It seems solid when you sit in it and rock, or if you push/pull on them.
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When I start my 2003 SC430 I hear this screeching noise. It sounds like it is coming out of the dash but it may be under the hood because my neighbor heard it outside the car.
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My jetta started making a loud screeching noise on initial start up, it only last a split second and sometimes it doesn't do it, I read it maybe my bushings need greased, but I didn't know if maybe it was something to do with my flywheel bc with my window down and at idle I can hear a faint tapping noise, I push the clutch in the noise goes away, car starts up fine with no hesitation and also shifts smooth...
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I just got a VR6 Jetta 2001. Everything was fine until I didn't drive the car for like 2 days and it started doing this noise at start up. The noise disappears after a minute or so. What it could be ?
[URL] ....
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I've got a 2004 1.8T 4motion passat and when it starts cold in the morning it makes a loud noise for a minute or so then it stops and is normal again, I'vev been told by a local autoparts store that it is possibly the auxiliary/secondary air pump that needs to be changed to fix this poblem. if it is the air pump how hard is it to change and do u need any special tooling to do it or is it fairly straight forward to change?
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I recently pulled the stock tp38 off. The reason for rebuilding is the turbo started making an awful screeching on start up and shutdown when the compressor is at a low rpm and starts to wobble.
The shaft has 1/2 in and out play with 1/8 in every direction. the compressor has some wear marks but no chips, the turbine has some good chunks missing. from what i can see there are no marks on the housings.
What should i put in it as far as new compressor and turbine/shaft. nothing that requires machining. I am not looking to run more boost or anything, just looking to reduce spool up time if possible. Any specific rebuild kit? what turbine and compressor should I go with?
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About a year ago our headlights were getting dim . Our dealer referred us to a company that had a process to polish the lights and restore their brightness. Now after a year or so the lights are again cloudy and need attention. I purchased a kit but haven't tried it yet because of winter in Wisconsin.
I've also read that toothpaste can be used to clean and polish the lens on headlights.
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Looking to buy a used bmw x3 (75K miles) 2006 model versus a toyota highlander limited hybrid 2010 with 65K miles. The bmw is priced at 14K, while the highlander is priced at 26K. Both cars drive good, clean records. However the hybrid I fear has hidden costs.
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I am trying to replace the alternator. I have removed the top pivot bolt, the lower bolt going through the tensioning device, and the bolt that adjusts the tension. The thing still won't come out. I can move it up and down (like it is pivoting on the pivot bolt) but it won't come out from between the area that the pivot bolt slides into. Tried using a large screwdriver to pry it out but it doesn't budge.
Is there a secret to remove this that I haven't discovered?
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In January I purchased a front wheel drive 2010 Toyota Highlander with 23,000 miles. When driving just over 60 mph, there is a fairly loud humming sound at the back of the car (seems to be more toward the right rear). The dealership replaced the LEFT rear wheel bearing (they said the right bearing was fine) and performed road force balancing on the new Yokohama Geolander tires I purchased with the car. Unfortunately, the annoying humming sound has not gone away.
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I have a '06 Toyota Highlander that blows hot air from the vents when the controls are in the following positions:
- Temperature anywhere in the cool to cold range
- Fan on at any speed
- Diverter in any position
- A/C OFF.
The air comes out hot after I make a sharp turn in either direction. If I turn the fan off I get fresh, cool air from the vents regardless of the turns.
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