Toyota - Highlander :: Air Compressor Blows Fuses Frequently
Dec 7, 2013
I have a 15 amp air compressor that does a terrific job keeping my air pressures to recommended levels however it frequently blows fuses in both my 2010 Highlander and my 2006 LS 430 Lexus. It appears that a direct connection to the battery is the only recourse. Are the adapters that permit direct connection of the compressor mail cigarette connector to the battery via a female cigarette lighter connector safe and a reasonable alternative to stocking up on 15 amp fuses every time I want to top off my tire pressures?
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In driving my 2004 Toyota Highlander, fan blows hot and then cold on "cold" setting. Just hit 85,000 miles. Thermostat?
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I bought auction car, a/c just blowing warm air. a/c light blinking. this highlander limited no manual dial. I have checked relay and working fine, the compressor is not spinning no matter what i try.
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Whenever I use the a/c on the 88 camry it blows hot air unless you driving very fast when the vehicle is idling it seem to heat up again you can hear the compressor cycle on and off so that would mean the compressor needs replacing right? And also when I replace it do I need to get a new receiver dryer and filter for it?
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Horn recently stopped working. I checked the fuse, noticed it was blown. I replaced with a new fuse. Pressed the horn and it had a very short sound and then blew the fuse. What could be causing this?
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Compressor seems to cycle to frequently, every 5 Seconds. Morning and Night the ac is freezing. During the Day it's cool but not cold.
Hooked up gauges and the high side is around 150 and the low side will go up to 45 and drop to 25 ( this is when the compressor engages and disengages.)
Ambient temp is just under 80. Where to go from here? 2003 Sport Trac...
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My 2000 Toyota RAV 4 has had an oil leak problem for some time. So far, we have just been checking the oil frequently and adding oil as needed. The problem seems to be getting worse. I have taken it to more than one person and have received more than one recommendation. The car does have 244,000 miles on it so I realize that it would use more oil than a newer car. The last time the oil was checked it was after the car had been driven 136 miles. We added a little over a half quart of oil. Is that extreme? Should I be thinking of getting rid of the car?
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I have a 97 Camry that looked like it had a small oil leak coming from the head gasket. It needed oil added every few days or so, so I changed the head gasket and now it overheats!
I changed the T-Stat, no luck. I took the radiator out and flushed it. It seemed to flow great too. I had the garden hose on full blast going in the top and it was coming out of the bottom just as fast with no back pressure out the top. So I think the radiator is good.
I'm pretty sure the fan was kicking on at the correct time but just to be sure I hard wired it so it's always on if the key is no, still over heating. Compression test shows 200, 209, 209, 211. That's pretty good right?
Just to be sure that the exhaust was not leaking through the new head gasket and heating up the coolant I did a liquid block test. Where you suck air out of the radiator cap and then it goes through a chemical which will change color if it contains exhaust gases. Not only did the liquid not change color, it was very hard to get any air out of the radiator, indicating that the system is tightly sealed correct?
The car is not loosing any coolant. I changed the coolant gauge sensor as well, still shows overheating.
Before I changed the sensor out I bought a thermometer and put it in the radiator. I was able to leave the cap off even after it started to get hot. The coolant did start to rise a little but I just bled it off from the drain plug at the bottom as it got higher, making sure to leave it full and not get any air. And the temp stayed below 200. This made me think that it was not overheating and thus the new sensor. This was not the case though. I realized that the coolant coming from the engine was very hot and then going into the radiator where it could cool down via my always running fan and then go past my thermometer.
The heater works great and even cool the engine down. This means that the heater core is not blocked and that the water pump works correct?
So after all of this I decided that there must be something blocking a coolant port. SOOO I took it all apart again only to find no blockages. I can see very well down into the block and fairly well through the cooling ports on the head and everything looks fine.
I also checked out the water pump and that looks great. Still in great shape and the bearing is not worn at all.
There was only ONE thing that was wrong on the engine (that I found) and that was the throttle body gasket. It was put on the wrong way so as not to fully block that air passage that I believe is pulled from the block into the throttle body. this could cause overheating?
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About a year ago our headlights were getting dim . Our dealer referred us to a company that had a process to polish the lights and restore their brightness. Now after a year or so the lights are again cloudy and need attention. I purchased a kit but haven't tried it yet because of winter in Wisconsin.
I've also read that toothpaste can be used to clean and polish the lens on headlights.
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Looking to buy a used bmw x3 (75K miles) 2006 model versus a toyota highlander limited hybrid 2010 with 65K miles. The bmw is priced at 14K, while the highlander is priced at 26K. Both cars drive good, clean records. However the hybrid I fear has hidden costs.
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I've been having frequent problems with my car.
Here's the information about it:
200,000 miliage
engine light is on when key is in ignition, but goes off when car starts up
Four cylinder engine
Here's the problem:
Car stalls intermittently
when it is about to stall, when i slow down, car putters a bit, and RPM gauge shakes wildly
when coming to a complete stop, car shuts off completely, and when trying to start back up, engine chokes.
Temporary solution:
I put the car in neutral and floor the gas pedal, then the car works again.
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I am trying to replace the alternator. I have removed the top pivot bolt, the lower bolt going through the tensioning device, and the bolt that adjusts the tension. The thing still won't come out. I can move it up and down (like it is pivoting on the pivot bolt) but it won't come out from between the area that the pivot bolt slides into. Tried using a large screwdriver to pry it out but it doesn't budge.
Is there a secret to remove this that I haven't discovered?
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In January I purchased a front wheel drive 2010 Toyota Highlander with 23,000 miles. When driving just over 60 mph, there is a fairly loud humming sound at the back of the car (seems to be more toward the right rear). The dealership replaced the LEFT rear wheel bearing (they said the right bearing was fine) and performed road force balancing on the new Yokohama Geolander tires I purchased with the car. Unfortunately, the annoying humming sound has not gone away.
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Everything electric works fine, windows, radio and all. The car will not start. New battery, still no start, not even trying. Put a new starter on and still nothing, but when you arc it you can hear it free spinning next to the fly wheel.... what to do next? some people have said it needs to be shimmed, how would I go about trying that?
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I have a '06 Toyota Highlander that blows hot air from the vents when the controls are in the following positions:
- Temperature anywhere in the cool to cold range
- Fan on at any speed
- Diverter in any position
- A/C OFF.
The air comes out hot after I make a sharp turn in either direction. If I turn the fan off I get fresh, cool air from the vents regardless of the turns.
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My old 1996 Camry with 2200 cc 4 cylinder engine, frequently keeps losing power to the spark plugs. I have changed the fuel filter and the ignition coil. That did not work. I also noticed that the car was starting when I unplug and replug the primary wire plug to the ignition coil. So I have replaced the primary power plug with a six inch pigtail and a used plug purchased from a salvage yard. This is not working either. The Toyota dealer near my house want to replace the igniter and the Engine Control Module just to be sure that these are not the sources of problem. The dealer did not test these parts. So I refused to replace the parts without a proper test. I would like to test these parts. Is there a test available for the igniter and ECM that could be performed. I have access to a lot of tools. I need a schematic and/or test to test these components.
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I just bought (ten days ago) a 2009 Highlander Hybrid Limited, hoping to take advantage of the very good MPG advertised by Toyota. The vehicle has 70,000 miles and in pretty good condition.
The problem is that I have a terrible 13-14 MPG. I did some research and I can not find what is wrong. I do everything by the book. No abrupt acceleration or braking. No AC. I drive only in city.
The batteries levels are good according to what I can see on screen.
I am a little worried because even for a regular gas engine Highlander 13 MPG is pretty bad !
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Wife is 5' tall and can't see out the windshield sitting in the passenger seat. No ability to raise seat, can go back and forth but not up. We had a 2010 Highlander SE and did not have this problem. Now she hates this car.
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I have a 2013 Highlander which I purchased new. about a month ago I noticed rust all over my third row seat when I opened it. As I looked I found rust all under the seats and not only on the third row but also the first and second row also. The car is garage kept and has had no leaks. My dealership tells me it is not a Toyota problem.
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I am trying some troubleshooting based on various things I found for my 2010 Toyota Highlander blower motor. The issue is that my blower motor operates intermittently. Here are the symptoms and what I've done so far:
-Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. It seems to be dependent on weather (in the sun for awhile and doesn't seem to like that), although lately it doesn't really seem to matter. Had it in my garage yesterday and it just works some times and not other.
-If it works, all speeds work (full range). That makes me think it doesn't have to do with the resistors, although I can't find the electrical schematics for the car.
-All fuses are fine
-I have jiggled all wires and can never get it to work (if not working at the time) or to not work (if working at the time), so I don't think loose wires are the issue.
-I put a multimeter across the leads going to the motor and always get voltage. When the car is on, it's about 13-14V, and when it's not running just above 12V.
-The rear blower motor works perfectly, 100% of the time
-Light physical agitation of the motor doesn't make it come on or go off
My main question is what is the 3rd lead going to the motor? The two bigger leads are the voltage, but that seems to always be there, even with the car off. I'm guessing the 3rd lead is some control signal for the motor but not sure. I can't ever get a voltage on that lead, but I'm not sure I'm even supposed to. When the motor was supposed to be on and it was working, I unplugged it and checked the voltages, but got the same readings as when it wasn't working.
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Purchased a 2010 AWD Highlander, There is a whining noise coming from the rear end, possibly the differential. Is this normal in all Highlanders?
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