Toyota - Highlander :: 2007 - Stuck In 3rd Gear And Doesn't Change Up Until A Minute Later
Jan 30, 2014
I drive a 2007 Toyota Highlander, 4 cylinder/automatic/116,000 miles. I've noticed that when it gets really in the Winter I have a problem. Here is what I've noticed: I will start up the engine and let it run for 1-2 minutes (at start up idle the engine has a loud hum and after a minute or two it finally levels off). Once I start driving and gets to about 3rd it seems to get stuck there and doesn't change up until a minute later, all the while emitting a loud hum. It will eventually change up to the next gear if I wait long enough, or if I slow down and start again from first gear, or when the engine finally warms up. Other than that the vehicle runs great. I just had the battery replaced a week ago. What should I have checked first?
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Inserted updated nav disc as directed in nav disc slot, closed door. Now the disc is stuck in the scan-disc mode and the load/eject button doesn't work on it. Wondering if there is a way to force eject the disc or other way to unstick it. You can hear the disc 'whirring' briefly as if it is trying to eject, but is stuck. It does this over and over. That's the only sound; none of the other buttons are responsive.
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Whenever I start up my 2001 Highlander it makes an awful screeching noise that sometimes lasts up to a minute or two long! It doesn't just happen when I start it too. Sometimes I'll be just driving along and it will start screeching like a bat out of hell and quite a minute later. Also, sometimes when I accelerate quickly it will briefly ( a little peep) screech. I thought it was my fan belts so I got both of them replaced about a month ago and it temporarily fixed the problem. About a week or so after they were replaced, I put the key in the ignition and Squeak...
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In my 2002 Highlander, the top cluster of my center console controls (clock, hazard lights, passenger seatbelt warning, cycle air button, A/C button, rear defrost) have not been working for about two and a half weeks. It's been on my radar, but I hadn't had time to take it in yet. Drove fine, A/C worked, all of that – mostly just the clock was an inconvenience.
Two weekends ago, my battery died. Took it in, Advance checked it out and topped off the fluids, cleaned corrosion and sent me on my way – said the corrosion might just be shorting it out (it was bad), but that while the battery was old (4.5yrs) it might still be fine, so to try that and come back in 100 miles or so before buying a new battery.
Worked fine that week, died this past Saturday. Went in to get a replacement battery, had it put in, all good. Chugged a little on the first start after the battery was installed, had them check the starter/alternator, they were fine. Started normal after the first time.
Went to leave, and noticed my air conditioning was now coming out of the defrost, instead of the forward setting I left it on. Long story short, now that dial doesn't work, and I can't change the airflow direction. (Something with the battery resetting the switch to the default).
The temperature control still seems to work – it doesn't get quite as cold as it did (not sure if that's a new issue as well, or just how the defrost portion works). I can also still change the strength of the air blowing out – basically, the other two A/C controls work, I just can't change WHERE it's blowing out.
My guess was that it would be fuse-related, but I checked all the fuses that I could tell from the manual might have something to do with the A/C (or the center console controls I mentioned), and none looked blown/broken. What I could look for?
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My '05 Highlander transmission seems to be geared wrong. When I slow down the car seems to slip into a higher gear and speed up. It is worse when the air conditioning is on.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Highlander (130K miles)Recently, the A/C stopped working.
What happens: 1) With the car running and A/C off, turn on A/C2) A/C starts blowing and begins to be cool3) About 10 seconds later, the LED on the A/C control knob starts to blink and stops blowing cool air
A few diagnosis items:
1) Between steps 1 and 2 above, putting a PSI gauge on the low side port shows about 40 psi, which I believe to be normal.
2) After step 3, the PSI gauge shows about 130 psi, which I think is way too high.
3) Replaced magnetic clutch relay with no improvement.
4) When step 3 occurs, a light grinding noise occurs but then stops.
5) No diagnosis codes on the OBD2 port.
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Driving a 2007 toyota highlander hybrid? this car has done well until just this last year. I think the auxiliary 12 volt battery and rest of engine has issues. I replaced the 12v battery in 2012 so it's still good, but when I go out of town for over 7 days and the car isn't started, it is dead when i return. So I charge it up but then the car won't move when started and put into gear. It acts as if a wheel lock is on it. I got a hold of an innovus code scanner and no codes appear. I don't know what to do. I have come across some posts on other forums where owners did have battery issues with these cars, not the fault of the 12v battery but just the car and how it's built, vis a vis the 12v batt. I had the ipm (inverter component) replaced on recall in march of this year. the above issue with the battery had just begun a month prior, so i thought that following the recall all would be well. but it isn't...
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The power brake booster on our 2007 Toyota Highlander is broken and needs to be replaced. We asked our mechanic whether there are any brake-related recalls for our Make/Model/Year, and he said 'no'. Is this just our particular bad luck, or have others experienced similar problems with this SUV? It was scary. My husband was driving on the highway and needed to make a sudden stop due to a traffic slowdown. The brakes didn't respond, and he needed to slam down the brakes several times to get the brakes to work. No warning, the brakes just suddenlt stopped working.
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Two days ago I had new tires put on my 2007 Toyota Highlanders and since that time my air pressure sensor light keeps coming on. The tires are the right size, I checked in the owners manual. I've taken it back to the shop that put on the tires twice. The first time they told me the spare was low on air. the second time they told me the batteries in the air pressure sensors are dying and need to be replaced. I thought that sounded like a lame excuse so left the shop and called the Toyota Dealer and asked if the air pressure sensors have batteries. The service department at the Toyota dealer laughed and said no, they run off the car's battery. I called the shop back to tell them I was very disappointed and unhappy that they tried to sell me something that doesn't exist and they stood by the batteries in the sensors story and claimed they would show them to me if I would come back to the shop. Who should I believe? Replacing the batteries in tire air pressure sensors?
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I have a 2003 Jeep Liberty V6 automatic 4x4- the car is getting stuck in neutral and won't change into gear. It starts up just fine and runs okay for about a mile before I notice a terrible hissing sound when I press the gas pedal just before it acts up and locks in neutral- dangerous on the highway as I have to pull over, shut it off and then restart which then resets but soon comes the hissing sound and again it locks in neutral... I tried adding Lucas transmission fix but this did nothing.
I purchased this car (2003 Jeep Liberty Lmtd. V6) the check engine light has been on for 4 years now- none of the mechanics I've brought it to have been able to figure out why. ( hoses changed and nothing) I have not had a smoke test done. I started having start-up issues. The radio and all the lights come on but the car won't start (rule out battery), eventually after a few tries, it starts up.
I've also noticed, when in reverse, sometimes it stalls, a few times it has shut off on me while trying to park in reverse gear, sometimes when driving it kicks as if it is having trouble shifting into gear (it's automatic)- and finally, the hissing and revving sound when pressing the gas pedal, it shifts into neutral and gets stuck there....
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This is what’s wrong with my 1998 Honda CR-V manual transmission. When it’s off, the gear stick works normally. However, when I start the car, the gear stick gets stuck and won’t move to change gears. It happened before a couple times and if I warmed the car up for about 10 minutes it worked normally again, and normally the next time I drove it. However, this morning, the gear shift would not work even after warming it up, except when the car was turned off.
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How does one change the gear shift light on a2001 Echo?
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I have a camry 2000 automatic transmission with 150 K on it. For last few months I am having this sporadic issue with it having difficulty to change the gear from lower to higher gear(from the first to second, i guess). It goes like this, when i start speeding up the car, its having difficulty to move to higher gear, it just revs up to like 5 - 6 K rpm and with a jerk it shifts the gear. And at the same time check engine light goes on. And during the time this check engine light is on, it does this same thing a couple of times or so.
Then after some time the check engine light goes away and the car runs just fine without any issues for some tine and then the same thing happens again and after some time the issue and the check engine light goes away and the car runs just fine again. this keeps happening every few weeks. So I took the car to the mechanic (check engine light has gone away at this time, who told the code was showing some "speed sensor" issue and they replaced this. After that the car ran just fine for a couple of months. But its starting to do the same thing again.
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Toyota celica 2000 GT automatic, has a problem on cold start, especially when the temperature is below 32 degree Fahrenheit. The engine starts and runs roughly, but most electrical devices do not work, the dashboard and car windows are power off and I can't change the gear so it can not move. Only after warming up for about 10 minutes then the dashboard will work, then everything is fine till the next morning. I sent it to a small garage but they found nothing.
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Original owner of a 2007 Toyota Camry XLE with 96,000 miles. Here's my problem.
Right about a month after I bought the car, I noticed that the car would jump/speed up suddenly when the car changed from 2nd to 3rd gear. Here are some additional symptoms of the problem.
-This only appears to happen when the car is shifting these gears for the first time of the trip. All other times of the same trip, the gears change finely.
-During the first few years of owning the car, this problem only happened when the outside temperature was cold. It wouldn't happen in the summer time.
-Over the years, the problem appears to be independent of temperature
-This problem hasn't caused me to make any repairs to the car and the car runs without problems.
-I'd like to understand what the problem may be so that it doesn't get worse. It seems like it's getting worse and more noticeable.
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My 2007 es350 is already warmed up, so I know its not a temp issue.
My VSC light comes on (i know it comes on with any DTC)
My traction control light is on
My engine light is on
Now, when driving, it doesnt shift out of first gear till about 4K rpm and thats at normal acceleration (not flooring it) and shifts out of range on all other gears.
I can hear a humming/winding noise coming from the left side of the car (tray side) and it does it and I can hear it very clearly when letting off the accelerator (more noticeable at high speeds)
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I just changed my corolla trans fluid for the first time. the owners manual said a drain and fill take 3 quarts of T IV trans fluid. I purchased 3qts of T IV but more than 3 qts came out so I am about 8 to 12 oz. short. All of the toyota dealers are closed to day so I can not buy any until tomorrow. can I drive it this way for one day without hurting anything or should I put some of the old trans fluid back in?
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I took my 2001 Toyota Celica GT in to have the engine re-built due to a connecting rod that was ready to blow. I have taken it back to them four times. First time not dropping into 4th gear car is automatic stays stuck at 3RPMs. Said it was a transmission problem. I said didn't have one when I came in and not having one on my way out.
Nothing wrong with transmission. Said they fixed whatever they came up with and still car not dropping into 4th gear and my hood shakes so bad I have to put it in neutral to stop the shaking/vibrating at every stop sign and red light. Said they changed out the non-detergent oil for thirty weight and the shaking stopped for a minute.
I told them the third time I brought it back that the hood was still shaking, still not dropping into 4th gear. I checked my oil and fluids a day later and found no oil in my car and the tip of my dip stick was black. No coolant in the car either. I told them that this car needs special spark plugs or it will run like it needs a tuneup with no power. I was pissed.
They said that I had two broken motor mounts and the engine wasn't sitting correctly and that is what was causing the the shake and the 4th gear from dropping down. I was astounded..... They replaced the motor mounts and the spark plugs. When I drove it home it drove great. I even took it out to the river to make sure it was running great because I am selling this car and they knew I was selling it.
My buyer took it to Toyota of Orange and had a test done on the car to the tune of $120.00. It came back with upper and lower power steering hoses leaking and that I needed a new power steering pump. And wait for it.... a new head gasket!!!!
Which tells me they never rebuilt my engine, they just fixed the connecting rod. I took the report into them from Toyota and told them that I want everything fixed on this report and I want my car back in three days or I will take you to court.
I talked to the owner today to ask him when my car would be ready and he said by tonight that he had replaced the head gasket. Which still doesn't tell me if they rebuilt the whole engine. I told him I wanted the power steering pump and hoses fixed as well or I would report them to the Bureau of Automotive Repair. With the engine vibrating and jumping all over the place couldn't that have caused the power steering pump and hoses to be damaged? And am I within my rights to make them fix these at no charge as well?
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My 2010 Santa Fe's transmission has been smooth since the TCM update except there's always a clicking sound when the speed first reaches 30 km/h. The sound only happens once during each trip. It seems like it only happens when the fluid is cold. Once it's warmed up, it's fine.
Yesterday all of sudden I feel something is dragging my car. I noticed RPM is over 2000 when the speed is only about 60 km/h. (not mile). And the ECHO light is not ON. So I shift to '+/-' mode and the display shows 4. I guess it means it's in 4th gear. I shift up to 5th gear and RPM drops right away. ECHO light comes back ON. So is this a symptom of 2010 Santa Fe transmission?
I also feel my brake pedal is very stiff when this happens. And the brake pedal has not much travel distance. If the brakes are dragging car down, can this cause the transmission stuck at low gear?
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Finding a solution to my problem with Santa Fe, the gear gets stuck up on the 3rd gear. I have changed all the solenoid and it is still the same.
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My transmission got stuck in 3rd gear on the way home recently. I tried disconnecting and re-connecting the battery and that didn't work. Looks like there's fluid around the casing, but I wasn't sure if that was already there or not. What it could be? '07 Santa Fe (3.3L)
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