Toyota - Highlander :: 2003 / 4 Cylinder Won't Stay Running
Feb 22, 2013
This past summer on humid days I would occasionally have problems with the car idling. Usually after filling the gas tank. Had the car towed into dealership twice but no codes and it never acted up for them. Once the season changed and got colder I have not have any more significant problems. Occasionally the car would act like it was going to die after start up but if you gave it gas for a few seconds it was ok to put it in drive. Last weekend in Cleveland (very cold) I started experiencing more problems with the idling (note the car starts but you have to keep your foot on the gas or it will die). Took it to a private mechanic and he has spent the last 4 days scratching his head. Again computer shows no problem. He has cleaned the choke and throttle and cleaned spark plugs. All parts look fine. He's checked the IAC and the mass air censor. He has checked his "expensive" computer program and cannot find any other answers.
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We have a 2003 Highlander which was having trouble changing from cld to warm air. We found posts about the common problem of the broken wire on the control panel behind the temperature control knob. I believe I was able to repair that by replacing the three wires on panel. The temperature changes from hot to cold now. However the air on the drivers side is luke warm. The passengers side is cold. We have had the freon charged and that hasn't worked.
I have tried adjusting the temperature on the floor heat, vents, and defrost and the temperature is split in the middle.I even looked under the dash shining a flashlight into the evaporator box through the floor vent and can see the blend doors and actuators moving from hot to cold and floor to vent. My wife is not a fan of being hot and I am not a fan of my wife being hot headed. Could there be a blend door on the drivers side that is partially blocked or out of sync. Can I get to it without removing the dash or evaporator box.
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My Highlander with only 72K miles has an intermittent problem. I start it and it immediately dies. To get it going, as soon as engines starts I push and hold accelerator at about 1500 rpm for about 3 minutes, then ease off accelerator and generally no problem for the rest of the day. Been to regular mechanic with it twice, but car doesn't do it then. May go several weeks without this happening, then will have a series of these episodes. Not battery. Not throttle body. Mechanic doesn't think it's the type of gas being used.
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So I did a cylinder contribution test and a buzz test today. It buzzed evenly on all cylinders. Then when I did the cylinder contribution test I got these codes,
P0269 cylinder 4 contribution balance
P0284 cylinder 8 contribution balance
It has been running a little rough lately but not smoking. Seems to be chattering more than it was too. I did the FRx, HPx, CVDs and banjo bolt mods about 500 miles ago and it was a lot quieter and ran better. Just recently started running rough and a little louder. Could these injectors be bad? I did new injector O-rings about 800 miles ago. I ran the test with the engine cold and with it warmed up and got the codes both times. It seems to have a little bit of throttle flutter when holding it about half throttle while driving.
As far as I know the injectors haven't been replaced and they have 186K miles on them.
2001 F-350 Lariat Dually Supercab 6-spd manual 7.3 Powerstroke Turbo Diesel 186,000 miles....
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ok,up to yesterday, my wife's car started and ran fine. but we had not driven it in about 3weeks, and it was on empty. well, my kids would listen to the radio and, i think, starting it while we were at work. anyway, they ran it out of gas. so put gas in it, 3gallons, turned the key on and off a couple of times to get a good prime. started it up, died, i figured not enough fuel, yet tried again. started, but started spitting and sputtering and idling really ruff, had to hold to the floor to keep it running. removed the maf. it started and did the same. finally, i held down the gas and brake at the same time, took off to the store, got gas, but it died half way there. got it to the pump, put more gas thinking that's the problem. nope, the same. got it home, but when i let off the gas, it idles like it's not getting fuel and dies. so, any clue what it is? remember, 3 weeks ago it ran fine.
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ran fine the day before, fuelled up that night, next morning it did this. cleaned the IAC, tried a different TPS, cleaned mass air flow sensor. check vacuum lines. put couple bottles of gas line anti freeze in.
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Got a buddy with a 98 white f150 with the 5.4 motor. It will start up and idle fine but if you try to drive it it has no power what so ever. What it could be?
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My 2003 F250 started to sputter and died. Won't restart the rest of thw day. Go out next morning will start right up for about 1-2 min and dies like you shut thw key off. Won't restart. Cranks fine.
Oil pressure showing 1300lbs while cranking,ipr is 43% while cranking, but when koeo ipr is 97% which is weird. My excision shows 23% koeo.New oil,oem filters,fuel pressure is at 50 lbs while cranking. Seems electrical or something. Oil pump maybe but why 1300 lbs while cranking of that?
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This truck has been running fine then as my son was getting off the interstate it started acting like it was running out of gas then died. I went to tow him in and it cranked right up and never had another problem for a week. Yesterday he drove 80 miles away when the same thing happened shortly after he got off the interstate. He replaced the fuel filter which it probably needed but still won't start and stay running. It cranks right up the immediately dies.
First time this happened it was throwing codes PO171 and PO174. Now it is not showing any DTC's at all and none pending. We see no frayed or bad wires and all vacuum hoses seem fine. He cleaned the MAF with no change in behavior.... If it were an outboard motor or some kind of boat I'd say the problem is in the ignition switch except it does run a very short time before dying. If I immediately try to restart it won't stay running. If I let it sit for a while then it will run for about a half minute.
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What's up power stroke fam. I have a 1999 F250 Super Duty 7.3 liter this is what happen, was leaving the job site the truck started just fine ran for about 3 city blocks stopped at a stop sign and it started to run ruff like it was out of fuel but had a half tank then poof it shut off. After towing the truck home and trying to start it I could hear a relay clicking very sporadic the service engine light came on then when off and the truck started and the exact same thing happened started running ruff and shut off. Where should I start other than taking it to the shop?
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2000 XLT ext cab 4.6 4x4 auto .. Having a couple of problems in below freezing weather when temps are below 30 deg F.
1. I have the usual P/S whine, but when starting up a cold engine, the whine is extremely loud and the motor won't stay running. It starts and immediately dies. I have to give it a little gas to keep it running. It only takes a few seconds until the whine dies down, then it idles fine. Should I just replace the P/S pump or is there something else I need to look at?
2. Again, with a cold engine, when I start driving, the OD light on the column shifter flashes. It flashed for quite a while. The tranny worked fine, though. No problems shifting. I was told that I have to have the dealer read the code and it can only be done when its flashing. Is this true? I'd rather not spend the $$ if its something I can take care of myself. I did change the tranny filter and that worked some. Now the light flashes for about 2-3 minutes then it goes away.
Like I said, these problems are only on days when its below freezing and once the truck is warm, everything works fine.
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About a year ago our headlights were getting dim . Our dealer referred us to a company that had a process to polish the lights and restore their brightness. Now after a year or so the lights are again cloudy and need attention. I purchased a kit but haven't tried it yet because of winter in Wisconsin.
I've also read that toothpaste can be used to clean and polish the lens on headlights.
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Looking to buy a used bmw x3 (75K miles) 2006 model versus a toyota highlander limited hybrid 2010 with 65K miles. The bmw is priced at 14K, while the highlander is priced at 26K. Both cars drive good, clean records. However the hybrid I fear has hidden costs.
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126000kms on 03 explorer 4.6 truck started. Running rough at idle and under load.... Code came up for cyl 8 injector. Replaced injector... problem still there. Switched cop and plug with another cyl and plug.... same code and cycl 8 is definitely not working. Would a generic problem always affect i cylinder. I even checked wire clip on for injector... it appears ok. There is power to injector wire clip.
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I just bought a used Toyota Avalon with 135,500 miles on it. They sold it because it was smoking and didn't know what was wrong with it(they were an old retired couple). They were the only owners and it has never been driven hard or abused.... Anyway. I read online that unhooking the vacuum hose from the pcv valve may make it stop smoking. I unhooked it and plugged the vacuum hose and they were right. It stopped smoking after I got the rest of the oil out of the hose. I thought maybe the old pcv valve was messed up so I got a new one and hooked it back up but then smoking was back. So I am getting too much blow by in it for sure. I don't think the valve seals are leaking because as soon as I unhooked the vacuum from the pcv valve the smoking stopped. I drove it for 2 days with no smoke whatsoever. What could be causing the blow by to be so strong? It was strong enough to spit oil out of the pcv valve without the vacuum hose sucking it out(there was oil on the engine).
The check engine light is also on so I hooked it up to a computer at an auto parts store and it said I had a misfire on 2 cylinders(2 and 6). So I changed all the spark plugs and re-hooked it to the machine. This time I only got an error code for cylinder 2. Each plug has a coil so I switched the coil from cylinder 4 to cylinder 2 to test if maybe the coil was bad, but it still gave me a misfire on cylinder 2 only. I even swapped the plug from 2 to 4 to make sure the new plug wasn't bad. Still a misfire on cylinder 2. It is still smoking(ONLY WHEN VACUUM HOSE IS ON PCV VALVE) and check engine light is still on and error code says cylinder 2 misfire.
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I am trying to replace the alternator. I have removed the top pivot bolt, the lower bolt going through the tensioning device, and the bolt that adjusts the tension. The thing still won't come out. I can move it up and down (like it is pivoting on the pivot bolt) but it won't come out from between the area that the pivot bolt slides into. Tried using a large screwdriver to pry it out but it doesn't budge.
Is there a secret to remove this that I haven't discovered?
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In January I purchased a front wheel drive 2010 Toyota Highlander with 23,000 miles. When driving just over 60 mph, there is a fairly loud humming sound at the back of the car (seems to be more toward the right rear). The dealership replaced the LEFT rear wheel bearing (they said the right bearing was fine) and performed road force balancing on the new Yokohama Geolander tires I purchased with the car. Unfortunately, the annoying humming sound has not gone away.
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Everything electric works fine, windows, radio and all. The car will not start. New battery, still no start, not even trying. Put a new starter on and still nothing, but when you arc it you can hear it free spinning next to the fly wheel.... what to do next? some people have said it needs to be shimmed, how would I go about trying that?
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I have a '06 Toyota Highlander that blows hot air from the vents when the controls are in the following positions:
- Temperature anywhere in the cool to cold range
- Fan on at any speed
- Diverter in any position
- A/C OFF.
The air comes out hot after I make a sharp turn in either direction. If I turn the fan off I get fresh, cool air from the vents regardless of the turns.
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I just bought (ten days ago) a 2009 Highlander Hybrid Limited, hoping to take advantage of the very good MPG advertised by Toyota. The vehicle has 70,000 miles and in pretty good condition.
The problem is that I have a terrible 13-14 MPG. I did some research and I can not find what is wrong. I do everything by the book. No abrupt acceleration or braking. No AC. I drive only in city.
The batteries levels are good according to what I can see on screen.
I am a little worried because even for a regular gas engine Highlander 13 MPG is pretty bad !
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Wife is 5' tall and can't see out the windshield sitting in the passenger seat. No ability to raise seat, can go back and forth but not up. We had a 2010 Highlander SE and did not have this problem. Now she hates this car.
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