Toyota - Echo :: 2004 - How To Remove Arm Without Compromising Threaded Shaft From The Motor
Mar 30, 2012
2004 Toyota Echo 5-door hatchback (Canadian): Trying to replace the rear wiper arm assembly (VERY expensive)... Struggled - and finally succeeded - to remove the corroded nut that secures the arm in the motor shaft, but apparently the arm mount "cylinder" is similarly corroded to the motor shaft...
How best I might free this arm and remove it, without compromising the threaded shaft from the motor? I believe the threads are only at the top, where the 10mm nut secures the arm to the shaft.. and that the shaft itself is smooth (as is the inside of the blade "cylinder" that slide down over that shaft).
This vehicle shares the identical rear wiper arm assembly/motor with the 2004~2006 Scion Xb models.
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I have a 2001 Toyota echo 2001 210.200 km and my output shaft bearing makes noise and I cant know the level of my transmission fluid bcoz I don't have dipstick and i bought trans 75w90 oil os that ok and how can I add this?
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How to change a 2003 toyota echo blower motor.... Looking for a step by step directions ....
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I currently have summer washer fluid in my 2003 Toyota Echo's windshield washer fluid tank. I need to replace this with winter washer fluid within the next few days before the temperature goes below freezing.
When I pop open the hood, I see that the bottle is located on the left hand side of the engine bay. The bottle has a black cap with a picture of a fountain (wiper spray).
I have no experience working on the mechanics of a car. However, I would like to know the easiest way of replacing my summer wiper fluid with winter wiper fluid. The tank is currently full with the summer washer fluid.
a) How do I go about emptying the bottle completely without removing it?
b) If I need to remove the bottle and then empty it completely, how do I do this and what tools do I need?
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I've always find solution to solve my little issues with my Toyota Echo 2004 Hatchback. Since last summer, my car seems to have a lot of problems to idle well with the fine rpm. Here are all the events :
-it all started last summer, when the motor would start to idle really high for a couple of minutes, before getting back to normal. When this happened, a p011 check engine would light up. I switched to synthetic oil, and it greatly reduce the number of time this happen, but it didn't solve it entirely. It usually happens when the motor is warm, but still not hot.
-Only once, during a long ride, I got a check engine. When I left the highway, my motor wouldn't stop idling high. stop/start the motor wouldn't change anything. I checked the check engine codes, if I remember well : p011, p016 and misfire. With a friend, we checked the crankshaft sensor, and it was really dirty, so we washed it, and it solved the problem! A few days after, I also change my spark plug because they were starting to be old.
-A few weeks ago, I started my car and it was idling high as usual to heat up faster (it is winter now). But then, the rpm suddenly drop really quickly. The rpm was really low for may be 2 seconds, and it nearly chokes, but just before it went up back to normal. Then low/high/low/high until the motor was hot. No check engine. I disconnected the battery for a few minutes, and when I reconnected it, the problem was solve. I also checked the air filter, but it wasn't dirty.
-Then, sometimes when I start my car, idling is fine but suddenly at a red light the motor start to run really low with a lot of vibrations and a bad smell. Stop and restart the motor solve the problem! But only until the next red light, or until the motor is warm enough. Still no check engine.
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I've noticed a leak (oil or coolant?) that seems to be dripping from the left half of the passenger foot well. What could be the cause of this leak...
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how to remove the headlights from an '02 echo? I'm trying to paint the headlight bezel, and can't seem to get the headlights out.
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I have a 2002 Echo sedan. I'd like to remove the rear seats completely for more storage (I am a musician). I was able to get the bottom foam off, but the seat "backs" are more stubborn. I see there are two bolts on the floor frame in the middle of the seat backs, and one bolt on each side of the seats where they meet the doors/frame. I tried to remove the bolts on the metal floor, but they do not budge... One socket wrench sheared right off while trying to spin it loose, and when I used a socket bit on my drill with an impact wrench attachment, it still wont budge... Are they locktitied in?
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I have a 1999 F-250 super duty 7.3 4x4 and the rear drivers side axle seal is leaking. My question is how do I remove the axle shaft? my last truck a f150 had c clips in the diff that released the axle shaft but I did not see those on this truck. How to remove the axle shaft?
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I'm trying to remove the throttle body on my 2002 Echo. However, the transmission dipstick tube is in the way of one of the throttle body bolts. How can I remove the transmission dipstick tube so that I can remove the throttle body?
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If I lift the carpeting on the left side of the trunk and lift the panel, there is a black box with a threaded stud sticking up. There is no fastener on this stud. This may be the mount for the flux capacitor, an option I chose not to get.
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I am in the middle of replacing the timing chains on my 1998 4.0L SOHC 4x4 Explorer. I was going to ignore the balance shaft chain but a piece of the broken jackshaft chain tensioner broke the balance shaft chain tensioner too. Now I have to pull the upper pan/ladder frame.
Of course, the manual says I have to pull the motor to remove the upper pan/ladder frame on a 4x4 but I have heard there may be a way around this. How to avoid pulling the motor and still be able to replace the balance shaft chain tensioner?
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I have a 2004 4-cylinder Camry. Saturday I changed the passenger side motor mount which was broken and the front motor mount, which did not appear to be broken, but there was more play in it than in the replacement. I had to take the battery out and the air intake in order to have enough room to remove the front mount. To remove the front mount, I jacked up the engine with a 2 X 4 underneath the oil pan so as not to damage it. The passenger side wheel rose several inches off the ground. After everything was back together, the car ran rough at first but eventually got better. The only symptom that remains is a noise and slight vibration when the car is in drive. In neutral and all other gears there’s no noise or vibration. They noise seems to be slightly less when the car starts to roll, and after a few seconds in motion, I can’t hear it. What’s causing the noise? If there a third motor mount that I may need to replace?
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In driving my 2004 Toyota Highlander, fan blows hot and then cold on "cold" setting. Just hit 85,000 miles. Thermostat?
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2001Toyota Echo 1.5 Liter Automatic 213K miles
My car will start fine but when I start driving it will periodically sputter, particularly when I push on the pedal. If this was my old car I would immediately change the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. But it has electronic ignition so has no wires, cap and rotor. I just changed the plugs a year ago, less than 10k miles ago, so I doubt if it is that.
So, moving to the fuel system I thought I would change the filter, but the filter is integrated into the pump which is in the tank, and it like 125$. And it seems like to me that it is unlikely for that electronic pump and filter to need to be replaced hardly ever. I could be wrong. So, what else can I test? There are no codes, so I doubt if it would be mass airflow sensor or something in the air intake. Could it be a leak in the air intake?
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My Echo screeches when the AC is on. If I hit the gas, the sound will go away. Also, sometimes when I'm slowing down the screech starts with the AC on. Occasionally, the sound goes away after I've driven about 20 - 30 miles; it appears that the car at idle then is idleing a little higher. And, lastly, on very rare occasions, the screech will start when the AC is off and I turn a corner.
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My daughter has a 2000 (or 2001) Toyota Echo. It has 160,000 miles. The transmission is dead. On the other hand, the engine is in great shape. The mechanic in Georgia has given her a price of $2800. I'm trying to contact them to find out exactly what is going on. Her question: assuming is can be repaired, should she sink the money into it? She asked my opinion, but I'm not a car person by any means.
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I have a Toyota 2001 Echo and after about 5 min of driving, it starts to stutter when I step on the gas and shake back/forth. It gets worse going up hills. Once it starts, it continues at any speed and doesn't have the normal power but doesn't die. Stepping on the gas harder doesn't increase the RPMs like it should. Thinking it might be the spark plugs, I removed the cap on one plug and found the well with about 2 cm of clear, yellow oil. Is this bad? if so, how bad?
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I own a 2001 Toyota Echo. When I turned on the air conditioner, the fan would run, but there was no cooling. I took it to the Toyota dealer for repair, and the problem was a bad compressor. The compressor was repaired and the a/c worked. Twelve days later, the a/c would not cool. I took it back to the dealer, and the problem was "Found clutch melted to AC compressor." Fortunately, the repair was still under warranty, so there was no extra charge. I had never heard of the "magnetic clutch assembly" melting itself to the AC compressor.
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We have a 2005 Toyota Echo, manual 5 speed, with 160K miles. Everything works fine except for when you are accelerating (can happen in any gear) and mainly uphill. I assume the primary condition is when the car is being pushed or under more load than just cruising, anyway, it will will make a low grumbling noise and simultaneously shudders as if it is going to stall. This happens in a jerky fashion and doesn't last very long but consistently under aforementioned conditions. We have 3 Echo's by the way, all manual shift (Echo friendly)...
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Just bought little Echo and it's blowing hot air when the ac is on if I turn the ac off with the selector in the blue it's still hot. I used the gauge off a old ac recharger can and its showing the right amount of Freon and the compressor clutch is spinning. I am really wanting to fix it cheap , since I got it for 1200.
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