Toyota - Echo :: 2001 - Oil Over The Spark Plug
Mar 20, 2011
I have a Toyota 2001 Echo and after about 5 min of driving, it starts to stutter when I step on the gas and shake back/forth. It gets worse going up hills. Once it starts, it continues at any speed and doesn't have the normal power but doesn't die. Stepping on the gas harder doesn't increase the RPMs like it should. Thinking it might be the spark plugs, I removed the cap on one plug and found the well with about 2 cm of clear, yellow oil. Is this bad? if so, how bad?
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my wife drives a 2008 toyota camry 4cyl. she has about 86000 miles so i figured i would do a little tune up. change plugs, filters, injector clean, etc. while changing the plugs i seem to have broken 3 of the 4 pressure tabs on the plugs that plug into the coil. for the time being i have the pressure tap electrical taped very tightly onto the plug. What I should do? or is that common to for those to break off. I didn't even really use a lot of pressure either.
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I took my 2003 Toyota Matrix with around 148K miles to a local shop for the 150K work. This is the first time I have not taken it to the Toyota dealership because I wanted to use a local shop that works on Toyotas. I live in Asheville, NC. I spent over $800 for this service, rotating and alignment, plugs changed etc and they checked a engine light and told me I needed a new catalytic converter. I took the car in on November 2nd. On December 23rd I was driving on the interstate and heard a pop and a coughing noise. I was stranded on the side of the highway in Knoxville, TN. I got a tow to the a Toyota dealership where I learned that "the spark plug shot out like a rocket" through the header. I ended up getting a used motor for $4400. I have since spoken with other mechanics, all who have said that this is a problem with Fords. All have said the plug must not have been installed properly. They said it could have been a faulty plug but they don?t know how.
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I would like to do a coolant flush so finding the engine drain plug would be nice. Where it is or if there's a pic of it somewhere?
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My 2003 Toyota Matrix xrs blew spark plug, totaled engine. My husband had trouble with it stalling, the next day I drove it about 60 miles. I did have some trouble with it stalling but on the way home it got worse and was glad to make it back.
Took it in and they said pieces of the spark plug got in on top of the piston and got so hot it cut into the piston and won't hold compression. Hence totaled engine. The shop is willing to take car in payment of work done.
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I have a 22R sitting in my celica and my problem is that when I was driving home from school I stopped at a stop sign..... Well I started to take off from the stop sign and as I did Spark plug three blew out of the cylinder... (WTF) well anyways I started it back up and drove it 2 blocks to where I live and it backfired and now I have no spark to any of my wires or spark plugs I checked the Main Engine Relay works just fine, For fuel problems anyways.. other than that I believe my timing skipped during that bad backfire so Woohoo for that but any other problems that could have caused "no spark" like my igniter blew out or my coil.. I would like to know where the fuse is (if any) for the igniter.
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How long should I let my engine cool down before changing the spark plugs? I have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma 4cyl 2.4l. My drive home from work is about 10 miles and I would like to change my plugs after work but I am not sure how long I should wait before working on the vehicle.
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I've never replaced those and I have about 250K miles on a 18 year old car. I do replace spark plugs every so often. I've heard that if the o2 sensor goes it can screw up the catalytic converter very quickly.
If the cat WERE screwed up, would the car still run or would it also need to be replaced? If so, I would think that an o2 sensor would be kind of a maintenance item, ie spend regularly to avoid a huge expense if the converter goes. or maybe catalytic converters aren't that expensive on this car?
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2001Toyota Echo 1.5 Liter Automatic 213K miles
My car will start fine but when I start driving it will periodically sputter, particularly when I push on the pedal. If this was my old car I would immediately change the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. But it has electronic ignition so has no wires, cap and rotor. I just changed the plugs a year ago, less than 10k miles ago, so I doubt if it is that.
So, moving to the fuel system I thought I would change the filter, but the filter is integrated into the pump which is in the tank, and it like 125$. And it seems like to me that it is unlikely for that electronic pump and filter to need to be replaced hardly ever. I could be wrong. So, what else can I test? There are no codes, so I doubt if it would be mass airflow sensor or something in the air intake. Could it be a leak in the air intake?
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I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 that I bought used a couple of years ago. About every 20k miles (120k miles on it now) I get a check engine light and upon diagnosis it's the 4th cylinder spark plug fouled out, every time. I change the spark plug, but the old ones are always identical in damage. The porcelain has cracked on the spark plug.
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I somehow managed to kill my 04 Santa Fe 3.5 while doing the dreaded spark plug change and looking for pinpointing and rectifying the problem.
A quick rundown of the car... My mom bought her new in late 03, decided to get a BMW X3 a couple of years ago. I bought her with 65k miles. I just recently had the timing belt replaced by a reputable shop at 79k (yes I know I let it go too long.) I just hit 80k and decided it was also time to do the plugs as I had noticed a decrease in performance and gas mileage of late. Other than the recent dip in performance the car has been extremely reliable and has had no previous issues.
I researched as much as I could knowing that the 3.5 isn't the easiest engine to work on. I bought the recommended Champion plugs that came in the car from the factory as well as the oem Hyundai wires. I also replaced the plenum gasket.
I took my time replacing everything but despite my best efforts, I accidentally cracked the plastic on the radiator reaching over to the back bolts on the plenum. Other than that mishap, the only other issues was the #5 plug sticking which finally came loose after some begging and pleading to the car Gods. Unfortunately, my begging and pleading was enough for them to allow the car to start.
After reading a thread on here, I believe the problem is that I removed the TPS sensor to get to the bolts on the EGR valve, I know now that this was a big mistake. I checked and double checked every connector and can not find one that was missed or disconnected. The car would try to start but would not crank over. I was unable to get any OBD2 codes from my code scanner.
I decided to try a TB from a junkyard and swap it on to see if that was the issue. After swapping it on, the car started and ran like crap for about 15 seconds and stalled out. I was however able to pull some codes in this short time.
The codes I received are:
P0102: Mass Airflow Circuit Low Input.
P110 & P1172: ETS Improper Motor Current.
P1192: ETS Limp home - Target Follow Malfunction.
P2127: Throttle Pedal Position Sensor "E" Circuit. Accelerator Position Sensor 2 Voltage Too Low.
I'm not sure if these codes are left over from before I swapped out the TB or not. I reset the codes after I wrote them down and researched them to see if they reappeared but the car will not start again so I can't get the codes to reappear.
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I own a 2001 Toyota Echo. When I turned on the air conditioner, the fan would run, but there was no cooling. I took it to the Toyota dealer for repair, and the problem was a bad compressor. The compressor was repaired and the a/c worked. Twelve days later, the a/c would not cool. I took it back to the dealer, and the problem was "Found clutch melted to AC compressor." Fortunately, the repair was still under warranty, so there was no extra charge. I had never heard of the "magnetic clutch assembly" melting itself to the AC compressor.
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I have an 01 f150 with 5.4 triton. This has been great truck, never really had to do anything to it. It has 195k on it. Week or so ago it started running rough. So I replace the plugs and coils. I noticed some of the plug wells had oil in them. Got done and the truck is running like new.
Not sure where the oil is coming from. Not the piston as the plug was dry on the tip and truck not smoking any. I has began using a quart or so between oil changes. I have always changed it every 3k. Is it just time for new motor. Like I said it is running like new.
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my mechanic thinks there is a problem with the car's frame. Alignment testing showed the front right wheel sitting just behind the position of the left front wheel. He thinks he can fix it. Is that why the struts are leaking so quickly? or could there another reason?
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Just replaced the drive belt on my 2001 Toyota Echo, 100k, AC. First replacement as far as I can remember - don't know if a shop ever did it in the past, but doubt it, and did this change myself. I opted to replace because,
1) it seemed about time, and
2) I was getting some belt screech before the engine warmed when it was cold and damp out.
But, now I have an even worse screech. I've only noticed it happening at night (alternator resistance from the headlamps?), when it's cold and there's dew on the windows. It's intermittent, but increases in volume under load (initial acceleration from stop, or downshift to engine brake). I thought it was connected to the dash fan being on, but apparently not, as the sound is present (again, only on cool, damp, nights) when the fan is off, both AC on and off.
One last detail - I may have a bit too much tension on the belt. In this car the tension comes from pulling the alternator away from the engine, and I had a hard time getting a good reading on my tension indicator. I'm likely at the high end of the recommended tension but may be exceeding that to some extent.
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I found a leak today on my 2001 Ford F150 Super Crew, 5.4 engine. In the picture, it was leaking to the right of the spark plug, behind the hose. It was bubbling up from the metal. It hasn't been overheating except when I got home and idled with the AC on. What I'm facing?
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My son has a 2001 F150 with a 4.6L V8 that's blown a sparkplug from # 3 cylinder. The plug looks as if struck by lightning and has a burn groove as deep as a kitchen match stem the full length of the threads.
How difficult is an engine swap/change using another 4.6L? Neither of us have extensive mechanical backgrounds but plenty of aptitude.
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I have a 2001 ford f250 6.8 v10 with just about 183,000 miles on it my wife has been driving it and she told me it was running kinda rough so I took it for a drive and she was right so I pulled #1 COP and found it was full of oil and the same with#2 and #3 had a little bit of oil not as bad. What is causing my plug holes to fill with oil?
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So my 2000 F250 has 182k and I am not sure when plugs were changed. Its got the 5.4. My 2001 Excursion has 102k on the v10 and I've read a few threads about blowing plugs and now I am scared out of my mind. Do I need to worry about breaking them or stripping anything?
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How do you remove a right rear 2001 Toyota echo tail light assembly?
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is it possible to install an analog temperature gauge on a 2001 Toyota Echo? I live right on the Canadian border here in Mn. and it gets very cold. I have plenty blast from the heater fan but I don't think it's running warm enough. I had a new thermostat installed but it didn't seem to make any difference.
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