Toyota - Corolla :: Whopping Noise From Open Rear Windows
Aug 22, 2011
I've learned I can't drive with my rear windows open because it generates this whopping noise that's so bad it hurts your ears and shakes the car a bit at highway speeds. Sounds like a helicopter sitting on top of the car. I'm thinking it's caused by the air waffling in the rear window/deck space, since it's only slightly better since I took off the rear seat headrests. It happens at speeds over about 25 mph, and is unbearable at speeds over 50. 2010 Corolla LE...
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When I'm driving and I open just the rear windows - I get a buffeting, choppy, shaking noise - kinda like the whop, whop of a copter blade. The first time it happened I thought I had a flat tire. Is it the cover for the cargo area?
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My passenger side front and rear windows dont work. Both driver side windows work, just not the right side/passenger side.
Also when I press the master door lock/unlock switch on the driver seat, every door except the rear passenger door works. It stays unchanged so I guess it is not receiving a signal or something is not letting the signal reach the lock.
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I've had some noise while doing slow turns for the past 9 months or so, seemingly coming from the rear of the car. It's sort of a rrrrr ----rrrrrr -rrrrr noise, but it has a slight buzz to it too, like something is vibrating. It's hard to say which side it is coming from. It only occurs when turning to the right. But recently it sometimes occurs when going straight, but slow, like when approaching a stop light. Braking seems to have no effect. The other symptom is the left rear tire has very definite cupping. There are easy to see flat spots on the surface of the tire. The tire isn't perfectly round in other words, but more like an alternating sequence of flat spots. The other 3 tires don't have this cupping, they show a normal wear pattern.
I jacked up the rear of the car and tested each tire to see if I could detect anything wrong. I pulled, pushed, twisted. I could detect no play at all in either tire. I spun the tires by hand, and there was no unusual noise. They both just spun quietly, freely, with no apparent wobble or anything unusual. The service manual says the rear wheel bearing is bad if there is 0.2 mm of axial play. I doubt I could have detected 0.2 mm of play the way I did it, just pulling on the tire.
The only other thing I noticed is that the (rear) toe-in adjustment is different on the left than on the left. By this I mean the eccentric bolt-gadget is set on different marks on each side. The right one looks like it is set to have more toe in that the left. The right one is 4 marks positive toe-in, the left is 1 marks positive toe-in. I'm assuming these marks are just for reference, and don't represent the actual toe-in, just that's the setting it took to get the rear wheel alignment correct when the car was built.
Do I have a rear wheel bearing problem? A rear-tire alignment problem? Something else?
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I'm wondering if my 2010 Toyota Highlander has a feature that my old Lexus and my old Infiniti had.
When you pressed and held the "unlock" button, it would first unlock the door and then it would start rolling down the windows and sunroof - an excellent feature in hot, humid Florida.
I called the Toyota dealership where I bought my Highlander and they told me 1) they didn't know, and 2) I could bring it in and they could hook in to the computer (at their hourly rate) and let me know. In other words, I can pay them to find out what their technicians should already know about the vehicle.
On my Lexus and Infinifi, it was set by a key fob button press sequence so I was hoping that 1) the feature deos exist, and 2) it's an easy and free setting change.
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I have a few questions...
1. How do I stop the rear seatbelts from rattling when I have the windows open?
2. What can I buy to replace the ugly, black plastic 12V plug in the center console?
3. What should I use to replace the dealer license plate frames on my black GTI? What looks good?
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My electric rear vent windows seem to have a problem opening when the temperature is cold outside. They work almost perfectly when the weather warms up, with the exception of an odd little glitch here and there. Generally summer is good, winter is a no-go. I understand this is a common problem ???
Even at the times when they don't open I can clearly hear an electronic click near the back pillars, with each push of the control switch up front, so I assume the current is making it at least that far and there is no problem with the wiring up to that point.
I have recently removed two used actuators (R+L) from a donor vehicle, and will likely be installing those into my van in the very near future. Although I believe they came from a close but different year windstar which did not have the exact same "rivets" through the window as mine does. External arms etc that can be seen do look identical as does the pivot ball.
#1. is replacement of the actuators a likely solution to the problem ?
#2. by chance, is it merely just an issue of dirty connections with my present actuators ?
#3. can / should I do anything such use dielectric grease on the connections of either my present ones or the donor ones upon replacement, to alleviate future recurrence ?
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I have just purchased a 2009 Ford Crown Vic Interceptor a few weeks ago. One of the few things I would like to fix is the rear doors. I want to have people in the back have the ability to roll down their own windows and open their own doors. I have plugged the wires, that were in the armrest back into the button but still doesn't work. I am assuming the fuse might also be missing from the fuse box but I have not looked yet and when looking through the owners manual I could figure out which fuse it would have been or its place.
The other issue with the doors is people getting out on their own rather than me feeling like their limo driver or something... Iss there a kit I can buy to get the doors in full working order? If I take it into a ford dealership will/can they fix it?
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I have 2001 EX with the 7.3 and my rear vent windows stuck open and I am stumped as to what might be the culprit. There isn't any power getting to the switches in the overhead console.
I replaced the relay 204 in the engine compartment, I believe that is the correct one.
Where the actual fuse is located for this and its number? Because both of them are stuck open not just one side.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Camry that we purchased 14 months ago. When purchased it had bad brakes so the dealer replaced the rotors and calipers at their expense. A month ago I took the car in for a routine oil change and was notified that my rear calipers were stuck open and that my rear brakes were not working and rusted. The rotors look hardly worn, the one on the passenger side has some deep grooves in it and the driver side is pitted. We feel that we had poor work done when the brakes were replaced and that the back never worked. After the brake job was done we would get some "chinging" noise in the back brakes and I had them inspected twice and they said everything was fine. But now we find out they weren't fine.
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I have bought a new 2008 Passat about 4 months ago. about 2 months ago, this weird pressure could be felt from the inside similar to having the sunroof opened or the rear windows opened. I took it to my dealer twice and they say that they don't feel/hear anything. I went on a 200 mile trip and regretted taking the passat only 20 miles into it. the pressure/noise thing is unbearable! I seriously am thinking of crashing this thing and making my insurance switch cars. it was never like this when i got it. I would never buy a car like that! I checked to see if the tires were the problem but found nothing. i am so frustrated at the dealer and with this car that it just sits there not being driven because i can not stand driving it. Again, it makes a weird pressure/noise feeling as if the windows are opened but they aren't!
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I had the belts changed on my 2004 Infiniti G35 6-Speed Sedan according to the mechanics advice (they were cracked quite a bit). Now that they're changed they make an annoying squeaking noise which is particularly awful when idling with my windows open. When I took it back, he said the pulleys need to be replaced and they are already at maximum tension. They did not squeak before the replacement. Is he right? Or did he just put in a belt that's longer than it should be?
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I have had that car, the best one I have ever owned, since shortly after Nine-One-One, a date some of you may remember.
I never open any door but the driver's door with the key. Several months ago, for some reason it occurred to me to try and see if they worked.
Nope, both the rear hatch and passenger's door lock would not open with the key. I assumed that the mechanism corroded up over lack of use over the years.
I thought, Well, crud. But, since I haven't used those door locks in over 12 years, I can probably get by.
I thought I had lost the spare car key when I was in Texas in December. To my surprise, I saw it on the key rack in the kitchen here in rural Mexico. I took it out to the car to check it out, and it opens all the doors.
I compared the keys, and one of the 'vanes' on the key I use all the time is a very tiny bit smaller than on the spare key. My guess is either that key never opened those two doors and I never noticed it. Or, it has worn over 12 years.
So, I guess when I get back to the States, I will have a copy made of the spare key. I am also going to post this on Sienna Chat for obvious reasons.
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Rear window was replaced now the defogger does not work.
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Car is a 2000 Corolla with 62k miles. My rear brake light (driver side) went out (pretty sure it is the bulb). 2 months ago the blinker relay went out and I replaced it.
Do most mechanics have the bulb on hand?
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A few months ago I did some work to my rear wheels. I replaced the drums, shoes, springs, etc., and (though this probably isn't important) the strut assemblies. All is well. Within the last few weeks, my right rear wheel has been squeaking and squealing when I brake and just today it is so bad I am afraid to drive it. It even started to squeak (just slightly) while I drive after I let off the brakes. I just pulled the drum off and it all looked fine. I did not see any metal rubbing the drum nor did I see any unusual wear on the shoes. What the noise could be?
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When the rear windows are open without any of the front windows open, the wind buffeting noise is deafening.
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It happens most often when the going over bumps and uneven roads, I tend not to hear when going over potholes (probably because the sound of the crash over potholes tend to overpower the squeaks.) It sounds like it's coming from the rear right-side.
So, it must be the suspension then, right? You would think so, except:
It sounds like it's coming from inside the car rather than outside. Since I have the windows all rolled up, the squeaks would have to be pretty loud for me to hear it, if it's coming from outside.
Did the bounce test, pushed it with most of my weight to hear if it makes any sound. It doesn't.
Car: 2007 Corolla.
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I just bought a Toyota Corilla (2005). The rear window defrost works in a way but it does not melt the snow/ice. Is it normal? I used to have American cars, and the defroster always melted snow quickly.
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I have a 2002 Corolla with about 180,000 miles that has been well maintained, but I know very little about cars.
Over the past months, I've noticed the engine noise on acceleration sounds a bit louder than I would expect it to, and it seems to be getting louder over time. It's slow changing, so I'm a little unsure. And occasionally I wonder if I don't hear a sound that shouldn't be there, though I couldn't describe it yet. Mechanic said the acceleration noise is normal at start-up for older cars until they get warm, but this happens even after I've been driving a while. Worth the $100 for an engine checkup?
Also, the A/C doesn't seem to be the strongest and has a high pitch noise when I run it. Normal?
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I am almost 100% I have found the source of the rear wind intrusion that some of us are hearing. From day one, I have had a wind hissing noise from the rear door windows. After taking it to the dealer and them saying it was "normal", I have been on a mission to find the source of the noise. Well it is coming from a location that I never thought it would come from.
After trial and error, I found it is coming in around that shinny black triangle part in the rear door. There is a gap between the rubber and that plastic shinny triangle part. I used shinny black pinstripe that I got from an auto parts store to cover the gap. I test drove several times at speeds above 65mph and did not hear the noise. Unless you were looking close, you'd never know the pinstripe was there.
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