OK, so the front end of the car is on jack stands. The rear is planted on the ground. The car is in park.
Yet, I'm able to spin the front wheels with my hand.
Wouldn't putting it in park lock the wheels via the transmission?
The car is a FWD 2007 Corolla....
I've been noticing bad gas mileage over the last few months. I changed the spark plus, that didn't work. then I noticed the prob when I was checking my mail one day, on a slight incline and the car didn't roll back. so I took it home and checked each tire to see if it spun freely, and the two front ones do not, the drivers side being the worst. I don't here any noises coming from either tires, and have actually replaced front right wheel bearing last year.
View 21 RepliesThe car is a manual transmission 2005 Toyota Corolla with around 90,000 miles. I'm not the only owner. The car was bought used. It appears that the car was in a front end accident that doesn't appear in a carfax report. This can be identified by the poor clearcoat paint job on the hood flaking off and the absence of the air conditioner, as well as some rather pathetic body, work with noticeable bends and a few missing screws. Most of which I consider cosmetic and irrelivant to the car's operations.
The tires are bald and the car has had an alignment about 2 years ago after I replaced the struts. I wasn't notified of any bad ball joints, but that doesn't mean thats out of the question. The car has a bit of a shake at high speeds. Sometimes the shaking is violent enough to reduce speed. I noticed that more often the shake is really bad above 60 and quite scary above 70. This isn't always the case. Sometimes the shake isn't as noticable by comparison.
At low speeds the car seems to have a wobble or repeatative hop. The steering wheel has a rythmic pattern moving back and forth a few degrees. Enough to make holding a full cup or soda not a safe choice unless the desire is to wear the drink. The wobble appears to be a little worse when the car is cold. Winter mornings seem to bring out the worst in the wobble.
I would like to do as much work on my own as possible to save $, but I realize I may need professional service equipment to diagnose some of this. Can car tires be diagnosed for having bulges with some sort of test aside from visual inspection alone? Is there a tool that can be used to verify the metal of the wheel is true and not the source of the wobble? Do wobbles and shakes derive from bad tie rods and/or ball joints? What is the most common problem that produces symptoms similar to mine?
I enjoy the car's money saving potential, but it lacks an air conditioner which is vital for defrost operations and keeping the insane summer heat tolerable. If the repairs will cost me more than the car is worth I may choose to invest that money into a 2005 model as a replacement since I've grown tired of the lack of radio and no air conditioner. I'm trying to keep 5ish years behind the curve as not to waste money on the politics of new car value depreciation.
I took my A/C tensioner pulley (the pulley that is on the upper left of my crankshaft/harmonic balancer) off and when I took it off, the plates and washer fell off and I wasn't 100% positive how they went back on. I mean I thought I was 100% positive until I tried putting it back on. There are two plates, one on the front of pulley and one on the back. I'm guessing the smaller 1 has to be on the front because it has marks from the nut that goes on the front. The other one in my mind obviously has to be the back 1. The thick washer "seems" to go behind the back plate. It has stain marks on it that line up with the mounted bracket behind it, that is why I say seems. The actual bolt goes in from behind the bracket. The problem is when putting the pulley back on, I tighten the nut (I can't find the torque specs anywhere) in the front and the pulley won't spin freely at all. When I loosen the nut to the point where the pulley can slide side to side it will spin no problem. Something just ain't right but what it is. Are there more parts to this thing that might have rolled off into the abyss? Did I put the parts on wrong?
View 4 RepliesWent to change the front brake pads on my 2010 F150 today which has 80,000 miles on it and is 2wd. Prior to taking the wheels off we noticed that it takes both hands grabbing the wheel and a significant amount of umph to get them to spin. As soon as you let go of the wheel it stops moving.
While changing the pads we didn't see anything that seemed misaligned or incorrect. The pistons compressed with ease on both calipers. However we did have to fight to remove the inside pad on both wheels.
After re-install wheels back on, they are still just as hard to try to spin. Is this normal if not what could be the problem and could this be affecting my MPG which i get 18.0....
On my '92, 302, I have a failing compressor. It is "catching" after 1 - 3 turns. The clutch doesn't want to spin freely, not cooling well at idle and local shop advised me to get a new everything, if I want it to last.
My question is if I can pull a compressor from the JY, from same year/model, replace orifice tube, run a cleaner thru, evacuate the system, and fill with appropriate refrigerant. The reason I'm not doing the full repair with new compressor, new condenser, new drier, is I'm going to be pulling the engine at some point with a newly rebuilt engine I'm working on. I know the old system have R-12, but isn't there a way to just get by with the 134 retrokit's?
Noticed that both rear wheel hubs don't spin freely, they rub or grind. 2013 Elantra sedan gets about 10% worse MPG than a 2012 Elantra we traded in for it, two identical cars yet 2012 got much better MPG and now we notice a rubbing noise on the 2013.
2013 Elantra has 19000 miles but has always had reduced MPG, markedly worse than the identical 2012 we traded, but dealer could never find a problem with 2013.
Wonder if this rubbing on the wheel hubs is to blame for the lower MPG? I can't think it works. Not sure if its the emergency brake, the power brakes, the wheel bearing or something else.
Is this rubbing noise normal? Rubbing happens with the hub only or even with the wheel attached to the hub.
My car is pulling to one right slightly so I did the alignment. But it didnt eliminate the problem. Ｉ jacked up my car and try to rotate the front wheel. I can hear slight noise of the caliper rubbing the disk and the wheel does not spin freely if I stopped rotating it. However, the noise is subtle so I don't know if it is by design or I have a brake drag.
View 7 RepliesI have a 99 f250 7.3 4x4. The problem is in 2wd I can spin the front drive shaft freely and the driver side axle will turn but not passenger side. I've pulled both hubs off and both are in auto position and spin freely. Even with the hub off on the pass side the axle won't spin freely.
View 1 RepliesI just bought an FX4 and pick it up tomorrow. When you are in 2wd does the whole front end spin like the axles? Or does only the wheels spin when you are in 2wd? Reason I am asking it seems like with chevy the whole front end spins in 2wd.
View 8 RepliesI read about Prius will not spin its wheels? if it loses traction, it somehow disengages the drive or otherwise does not power the wheels until they stop. Once they stop, the wheels can receive power again.
That's sure going to make it hard to do burnouts in the grocery store parking lot.
More importantly, it could make it hard to impossible to get unstuck on sand, gravel, mud or snow. It could also be hard to take off on a slippery incline.
Sure, this isn't an off road vehicle, but off the road ain't far from on the road and road conditions can get pretty rough.
I know the RX350 isn't a real SUV designed to go off-road, but after the recent blizzard on the East Coast I am really disappointed by the AWD in this car. My driveway is plowed by a truck so it is very clean, but the city plow leaves maybe a small 5 inch high pile that about 1 feet across after it goes by. My RX350 couldn't through that the front wheels just kept spinning. I tried snow mode and even push the 4 Lock which I think does nothing. The back wheel didn't even spin once it seemed like I was driving a FWD car.
Our older RX330 a 2004 model got stuck also, but when we jabbed the gas after a few seconds the car made this weird screeching sound and you could see the back wheels spin as it climbed the driveway no problem albeit slowly. Its a bit disappointing to see an older RX has better AWD then the newer models. I mean the back wheels didn't even spin on my 2010 the front wheels just spun. I tried turn traction control off, 4 lock, and snow mode no luck. Also when going up the 2010 kept sliding sideways on my 04 the steering felt washy, but at least it was sliding off the driveway.
I also had A6 before this and it has never gotten stuck and its a lower car so its not like a drive my car through snow bank. We ended driving the older RX everywhere this weekend as the 2010 is not very assuring when it snows.
I just recently bought a used 1993 Toyota Corolla LE from a private individual. The guy said the vibration was caused by a crack in the front bumper but I think it is much more than that. The vibration is present all the time, but much worse when the car in in park or neutral. It has an automatic transmission. What could be causing the vibration?
View 4 RepliesI get a creaking/clicking noise coming from my front wheels when braking at slow speed. can be rhythmic at times which makes be think it may be a ball joint or bearing.
Also it may be related or unrelated... Between 70-80km/h my front driver side wheel gives off a "Hum". I thought it may have been unbalanced wheels since it started when I put the summer rubber on, but the tire shop said they are balanced and thats not it. The Hum goes away when driving at any other speed.
Just last month I had my brakes done (a couple weeks prior to changing my rubber).
Front: New Rotors, Pads, Shims
Rear: Machined rotors, New Pads & Shims
Brake Flush Performed.
My 2010 Corolla has been driving normally until yesterday. Suddenly, when I started the car, the ABS, Steering, Brake and Tire Pressure lights all lit. I couldn't shift my car out of park without having to resort to the override option. When I used the override option, I was able to back up for a little bit before the steering became even tighter.
The rest of the electric seems to be working correctly; the radio was working, all the brake lights were working.
When I go out in the morning to my c430 and start to reverse always on full lock either right or left the wheels seem to slip or slightly spin - it only happens for a second but it's strange and doesn't always happen.
View 2 RepliesI own a 2010 Jeep Liberty and this is my first RWD vehicle (when set in the normal 2WD mode of course). I notice that whenever I accelerate from a stop, on even a slightly wet road, the rear wheels spin and I get the traction light on my dashboard. I then need to take my foot of the gas and accelerate ohhhh soooo slowly. I've never had this kind of wheel spin on my previous AWD or FWD vehicles. Is this a known "feature" or RWD vehicles? Or maybe my one year old tires are inadequate? With my Liberty I could try switching to 4WD LOCK mode before attempting the acceleration to see if this works.
View 19 Replies2001 Toyota Sequoia LTD, 115,000 miles, replaced cal & discs & steering rack bushings early last year. Lately after 20 to 30 minutes of hwy at 70mph touching the brakes to shave off 10 to 15mph causes heavy vibrations from the front brakes like the wheels aren't round. No lights, ABS or VSC, no noise from the ABS unit. Same in 2WD, 4WD, VSC on or off. Touch the brakes from 70mph and it feels like slowing/stopping on washboard??? Tech checked, no codes present . Brakes function fine around town as does the ABS & VSC, alignment good.
View 1 RepliesI have an automatic '95 Toyota Corolla wagon that over the past year has had intermittent problems dying after turning on the ignition. It happens mostly when starting for the first time in the morning in our carport (which is generally flat) [are there enough red herrings yet?]. However, we can go for weeks without problems. Our battery is relatively new (1yr) and the car starts-- however, sometimes the car dies unless the gas pedal is depressed for long periods of time in neutral or park. If I can pull out of the carport without having the car die, we've never had any problems on the road.
View 7 RepliesWell its been almost 2 weeks since I've had the Ex (has 103K miles). Planning on new V code springs, Bilsteins front and rear , and rear Hellwig bar going in this weekend. Once I see how that that works I may also upgrade the rear springs to B code.
When I had it up yesterday I noticed the front right wheel does not spin freely. I can hear what appears to be the brake pad dragging.
Right not everything wrong with mine seems very common:
- very poor ride, 3/4" clearance between the front bump stop and suspension
- 4 door locks don't work (that's after the suspension fix)
- drivers heated seat not working
While driving the other day and making a slow sharp turn, like a u turn, I felt my wheels binding like they were in 4WD. I got under the truck and I could not turn my front axles freely. I jacked each side up independently and I could spin each tire and the axle would turn as well.
I thought being out of 4WD that the axles would turn freely? Mine do not.
I have ESOF and my hubs are turned to AUTO.
Is this normal or do I have an issue with my hubs or transfer case?