I noticed that in some cars (even new ones) the cooling fan stays on for a minute or two, even after the engine has been turned off and the key removed.
This caused me a little bit of curiosity —keep in mind I'm not very car-savvy— so I wanted to ask: Why is that?
Yesterday, I had to accelerate really really fast...ever since then, my fan does not turn off (when the car starts). I just started the car cold and it is running. I think the fan relay has gone out. I'm not sure which fan exactly...but when I opened the hood, I see that the fan behind the radiator is the one that is spinning.
Where is the relay for the fan is in the main junction box under the hood (near the front left strut)? Can I put the relay out (by hand) while the car is running? Can I also drive to work for a day or so with the fan on while I wait for a fan relay?
Toyota 2000 Corolla (CE 4-spd auto) with 60k miles.
My 05 V8 Phaeton radiator cooling fan is not running and hence engine overheats. The AC cooling fan works alright, it comes on when i switch on the AC. I have verified that the actual radiator cooling fan works by plugging it to the ac cooling fan socket. I have checked fuses and all ok. there are no dealers near me. I have also gone through all the cooling fan threads and all of them are for constant running fans, none for a non running fan.
View 4 RepliesBoth engine cooling fans on my 1986 Camry are running all the time; even when the engine is cold.
View 12 RepliesI'm at 47000 miles. Out of no where the fan began to run and its been running most of the time when i turn on the engine.
There's no CEL, engine temp gauge is normal at 200. Coolant levels above MIN.
What might be triggering the fans to go on? I'm suspecting it might be coolant thermostat sensor.
I have a problem with the engine cooling fan (driver side) - is not running. The other fan is working properly. On this arrangement driving on the high way the engine cooling is OK. Driving in the city the oil temperature is richening 215 -220 F (however the water temp. is OK at 200F) and the AC unit is stopping (I am assuming because of that). V8 Phaeton...
View 5 Replies2nd time happening to me: I started my car, backed up and drove few hundred feet before stopping at a traffic light.
While stopping there, I noticed the engine cooling fan was running at max and the temperature was going rapidly up (in less than 10sec the gauge almost hit the red line).
While the gauge was going up I shifted the gear stick to P and the gauge dropped to normal in less than 5sec.
I shifted back to D and the car drove normally ever since.
I'm having issues with my 2004 Toyota Corolla with 118K. Every few weeks, the car will go through a phase where it will stall out, run rough and hesitate on acceleration. Oftentimes it is accompanied with the rotten egg smell coming from the catalytic converter. When I decelerate to a stop light, the car will stall. When I start it back up, I have to rev the engine to 2000 rpm in neutral to keep it from re-stalling. Once I get up to about 10-15 mph, the car will jerk and sputter, and at 40mph, the jerking motion gets worse. If the car doesn't stall it'll run rough and have the rotten egg smell. I'm assuming the smell is from unburnt gas.
I find it happens more often when I don't let the car warm up for a few minutes. I've taken it to my mechanic, and i've gone through 2 MAF sensors, cleaned the throttle body. I changed the iridium plugs at 102K and am on top of maintenance with filters, oil and such. Of course when I bring it to the mechanic, the problems don't show up, and we are kinda blind to what could be causing the issue. Also, if I park it for a day or two after the issue occurs, the problems go away. What to look for?
How long should I let my engine cool down before changing the spark plugs? I have a 2003 Toyota Tacoma 4cyl 2.4l. My drive home from work is about 10 miles and I would like to change my plugs after work but I am not sure how long I should wait before working on the vehicle.
View 5 RepliesI removed my key and was about to go to the store but when i walked across my car, I noticed my engine was still running. I go to place my hand on my good and it is still running with my key in my hand. I go back into the car and realized some of the dash lights are still on. Key still removed. Gear shifter is locked. I step on my brake pedal to see if that will shut it off and it still doesnt work and is left on. Only way to turn off the car is to disconnect the battery.
View 1 RepliesI own a 2010 Toyota Corolla S the 1.8L 2ZR-FE engine. Today after work I started the car in a sheltered car garage and as soon as I started the car the after the initial start up sequence the check engine light stayed on and the traction control light stayed on and right next to it on the left side the "VSC Off" light kept blinking and flashing. I turned off the car and started it several times to see if that did anything and to no avail nothing happened.
While I was driving those lights stayed on and the VSC off light kept on blinking.
I also checked the brakes and the brake fluid and they all seem to be fine, I even checked the fuel door as well.
I am not sure what is wrong. I was looking at some of the complaint sites and most people say it happens when you drive through a deep puddle or if it is cold and wet outside. But that didn't make sense because I drove in the snow and those lights never turned on. The only time I used the ETS button is during the snow storms and I drive at low speeds.
I need to know why this VSC off light is blinking? Is it a bad sensor or is the ABS/ETS brake system broken or is it an ECU issue or is it because of an alignment. Since I was told to get an alignment soon.
See also: 2010 Toyota Corolla Question: Check engine light on and "VSC off" light blinking with the ETS light on.
This is a California car that won't pass smog tests with a lit check engine light. I don't know the specific code, but the description is that the torque converter is staying in the "off" position. Apparently the lock up torque converter is part of the emissions system in that if the torque converter does not lock up then the rpm's are higher and that produces more pollutants.
1st step was to flush out the transmission and the flush made sure all the fluid in the torque converter was removed and replaced. After that was done the trans fluid has stayed nice and clean and pink for about 400 miles. The CEL was turned off after this service but came back on in a few days at about 200 miles. Next, the solenoid that activates the torque converter was replaced. The CEL was turned off again, an this time the CEL came back on after a hour of driving on local errands.
Me and my generally good mechanic are hung up now. We were betting the solenoid change out would solve the problem. It seems that the torque converter is in fact operating properly. The tranny shifts smoothly and the rpm's drop at the proper times indicating the torque converter is locking up.
At a service station in NJ, my gas cap flew into the wind and the attendant replaced it. My check engine light came on a day after getting gas (not in NJ) so I took it in to my garage. Ends up that the (new) gas cap has a crack and a new one is getting ordered. Now, whenever I am filling up the gas tank, it keeps shutting itself off (very frequently . . . like every 1/2 gallon or so). This happened when the check engine light was on and after it was initially turned off by the mechanic. I asked a mechanic at the garage because it keeps happening and I can't fill the car fully and he said it happens with some cars and you have to hold it a certain way or something. This can't be fixed and I'll just have to get used to it until I get a new car. My question -- how could this have just started happening? Its a 2002 Corolla and I've had it for years without problems. Is it possible that when I get a new gas cap and the computer gets re-started, it will fix itself?
View 6 Repliesi just bought my 2nd hand 2009 corolla recently and i notice that my door remote is not working if the engine is in running condition.
let say i park my car in front of the mini store to buy something, i don't want to shut off the engine so that the inside of the car is still cold when i comeback after a few minutes. (by the way, i am here in saudi arabia...gasoline here are much cheaper that everywhere else).
the problem is, when i use my remote to lock the door...it wont work...unlike my previous cars, door remotes are working even the engine is on or off...
is there any settings from the computer or do i just have to do something from the inside of the car..
Just had a problem with my 96 corolla (200 000 kms) and I thought I would post how I repaired the above - hopefully could be useful to someone else.
Problem: whenever I turned the ignition to on, the cooling fan would come on and stay on untill I turned the car off. The car was behaving this way regardless of whether it was cold start or hot start.
In my case, the problem was the cooling fan switch (or some say sensor). It should test for continuity when engine cold. When the engine is hot, it should have no continuity. In my case, I had no continuity with the engine cold... so therefore the sensor 'tricked' the fan relay into thinking that the engine was too hot, hence the fan was always on.
Note that on this Corolla, there are two sensors (at least) for the cooling temperature. There's the cooling fan switch sensor and there's the sensor the sends the temperature to your temp gauge. That had me scratch my head a bit.... cause at first, I connected the car to an OBD2 and could see it was reading the temperature ok.... so I had initially ruled out the sensor... but a bit more research and I realized the fan has its own sensor.
How to fix it: The sensor is right underneath the distributor. Here's what I did:
1) empty about 2 litres of rad coolant into a clean container (you don't want coolant to leak when you take the sensor out.)
2) Unplug the sensor.
3) Pull the coolant overflow container out of the way. it's a slide in... just pull it up and out of the way.
4) Use a 17mm deep socket, remove the old sensor, pop the new one right in.
5) Reconnect sensor, put overflow container back on. Pour coolant liquid back in. make sure rad cap is on.
6) You're set. 30 minutes max.
Here's a picture of what the cooling fan switch looks like....
My engine just went out in my 2009 Corolla XRS. What vehicles have the same engine as a 2009 Corolla XRS 2.4L manual transmission?
Also, what would it take to put in the 1.8L engine? Would it bolt straight up? Would I need a new ecu/wiring harness/mounts/exhaust/trans etc?
I am considering putting in a rebuilt or used transmission at the same time because my syncros were failing.
The rattle appears as I rev the engine at a certain RPM. It happens in every gear. I had the car jacked up and the heat shields checked today when I had my tires rotated. Unfortunately for me my 2006 Toyota Corolla was NOT doing this when I was at the tire shop. I opened the hood and the sound is NOT coming from the engine. It sounds like it is coming from the middle of the car, or maybe the passenger side. I am stumped. I did all the maintenance on the car and everything.
View 4 RepliesI have a Toyota Corolla 96. The check light is on. I took it to AutoZone and the guy told me everything is Ok. I looked the oil level this morning and it was low. The temperature sensor is normal and the car runs fine. My car experience is almost zero....
View 13 RepliesI have a 1992 Toyota Corolla that will not start in the summers when the engine gets hot This is the 3rd summer it has happened as I attempt to run errands on the weekend and make several stops. After the 2nd or 3rd location, the car will not start. I must wait 30-45 min. for the car to cool down. I have called tow trucks before and by the time they get to me they are able to start the car. They always check the battery and tell me it is fine. I even bought a new battery just to make sure the first summer it happened. Obviously something is heating up, but what?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 Corolla LE with about 93,600 miles.
It was about 16 degrees Fahrenheit this morning and I drove on a cold start, and noticed the engine knock a bit when idling. Later noticed check engine light come on. After the car fully warmed up, 15 minutes later, the knocking seemed to subside.
I don't think I've replaced the spark plugs in the longest time, so could it be this issue?
Recently I had a new clutch put in my car (192,000 miles on it) at the toyota dealership. My car has never been the same. It has not pep to it and bucks now. I brought it back when the engine light came on and they said I needed new spark plugs (my husband replaced them with non toyota ones and the car ran fine) so I said fine. The light went off but car still didn't run better. The light has come back on, we found out how it get it to go off and put some cleaner in the gas tank. After 2 days the light came back on again and the car still runs poorly. I don't want to go back to toyota since they messed my car up in the first place.
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