Toyota - Corolla :: Cooling Fan Keeps Running
Sep 11, 2014
Yesterday, I had to accelerate really really fast...ever since then, my fan does not turn off (when the car starts). I just started the car cold and it is running. I think the fan relay has gone out. I'm not sure which fan exactly...but when I opened the hood, I see that the fan behind the radiator is the one that is spinning.
Where is the relay for the fan is in the main junction box under the hood (near the front left strut)? Can I put the relay out (by hand) while the car is running? Can I also drive to work for a day or so with the fan on while I wait for a fan relay?
Toyota 2000 Corolla (CE 4-spd auto) with 60k miles.
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I noticed that in some cars (even new ones) the cooling fan stays on for a minute or two, even after the engine has been turned off and the key removed.
This caused me a little bit of curiosity —keep in mind I'm not very car-savvy— so I wanted to ask: Why is that?
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I'm having issues with my 2004 Toyota Corolla with 118K. Every few weeks, the car will go through a phase where it will stall out, run rough and hesitate on acceleration. Oftentimes it is accompanied with the rotten egg smell coming from the catalytic converter. When I decelerate to a stop light, the car will stall. When I start it back up, I have to rev the engine to 2000 rpm in neutral to keep it from re-stalling. Once I get up to about 10-15 mph, the car will jerk and sputter, and at 40mph, the jerking motion gets worse. If the car doesn't stall it'll run rough and have the rotten egg smell. I'm assuming the smell is from unburnt gas.
I find it happens more often when I don't let the car warm up for a few minutes. I've taken it to my mechanic, and i've gone through 2 MAF sensors, cleaned the throttle body. I changed the iridium plugs at 102K and am on top of maintenance with filters, oil and such. Of course when I bring it to the mechanic, the problems don't show up, and we are kinda blind to what could be causing the issue. Also, if I park it for a day or two after the issue occurs, the problems go away. What to look for?
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Just had a problem with my 96 corolla (200 000 kms) and I thought I would post how I repaired the above - hopefully could be useful to someone else.
Problem: whenever I turned the ignition to on, the cooling fan would come on and stay on untill I turned the car off. The car was behaving this way regardless of whether it was cold start or hot start.
In my case, the problem was the cooling fan switch (or some say sensor). It should test for continuity when engine cold. When the engine is hot, it should have no continuity. In my case, I had no continuity with the engine cold... so therefore the sensor 'tricked' the fan relay into thinking that the engine was too hot, hence the fan was always on.
Note that on this Corolla, there are two sensors (at least) for the cooling temperature. There's the cooling fan switch sensor and there's the sensor the sends the temperature to your temp gauge. That had me scratch my head a bit.... cause at first, I connected the car to an OBD2 and could see it was reading the temperature ok.... so I had initially ruled out the sensor... but a bit more research and I realized the fan has its own sensor.
How to fix it: The sensor is right underneath the distributor. Here's what I did:
1) empty about 2 litres of rad coolant into a clean container (you don't want coolant to leak when you take the sensor out.)
2) Unplug the sensor.
3) Pull the coolant overflow container out of the way. it's a slide in... just pull it up and out of the way.
4) Use a 17mm deep socket, remove the old sensor, pop the new one right in.
5) Reconnect sensor, put overflow container back on. Pour coolant liquid back in. make sure rad cap is on.
6) You're set. 30 minutes max.
Here's a picture of what the cooling fan switch looks like....
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My 05 V8 Phaeton radiator cooling fan is not running and hence engine overheats. The AC cooling fan works alright, it comes on when i switch on the AC. I have verified that the actual radiator cooling fan works by plugging it to the ac cooling fan socket. I have checked fuses and all ok. there are no dealers near me. I have also gone through all the cooling fan threads and all of them are for constant running fans, none for a non running fan.
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I'm working on 07sonata 2.4. The cooling fan is always on when key is on. I used to be a hyundai tech and remembered seeing something about the engine room fuse box and I have access to wiring diagrams. So in essence you go to connector jc01 pin 2 pink and connector je01 pin 25 pink. Cut the wires and connect them together bypassing the fusebox all together. But that didn't work this time. One thing I discovered is that if I touch my power probe to the heatsink of the fan control module I have battery voltage available. I first discovered this because I was removing said module and my 10mm touched it when it slipped a touch.
Is this 'hot' heatsink evidence of a shorted module? No codes in system. Ect tests good when hot and cold. A/c is not commanded on. Being that I used to be a tech for Hyundai I also know the engine fuse box can be touchy as well...
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03 Santa Fe, 2.7 L engine. No cooling happening. Compressor not running. Jumpered both sides of the triple pressure switch. Jumpering Low/high side resulted in slight increase in engine rpm, Jumpering medium side and something turned on (didn't get a chance to investigate) but still no clutch operation on compressor. Wondering what to try next other than disconnecting and dropping compressor ?? Checked AC relay on the bench and the coil operates and contacts close, so that's good. Also10A fuse before relay contacts is OK.
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Having this issue? Should I have it look at? Or is this normal?
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I can usually find what Im looking for with a quick search but I have had no luck with this issue.
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Both engine cooling fans on my 1986 Camry are running all the time; even when the engine is cold.
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Went outside to start my '99 V6 and nothing! No interior lights, no door chime, no annoying ding ding with the key in the ignition. The car ran great yesterday but I noticed it sounded like the cooling fan was running long after the car was turned off in my garage.
I tried using a car starter/charger and charged it up for 3 hours - was reading a positive charge on the gauge- but it won't start. When I get ready to crank the car with the charger attached to it, the fan noise kicks in again but it isn't coming from the radiator fan- it sounds like it is coming from under the air intake for the air filter.
When I attempt to start the car,I can best describe the sound as a machine gun like cranking noise that lasts as long as I turn the key. I am hoping it isn't the starter. The battery is less than 2 years old with about 10k miles on it.
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My Lincoln engine / coolant fan is running high about 90% of the time but the car is not overheating or heating up prior to the fan issue. This is a new situation. I'm trying to avoid a $1200.00 new fan purchase ( it only comes as a one unit option - fan, shroud, motor ).
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I'm at 47000 miles. Out of no where the fan began to run and its been running most of the time when i turn on the engine.
There's no CEL, engine temp gauge is normal at 200. Coolant levels above MIN.
What might be triggering the fans to go on? I'm suspecting it might be coolant thermostat sensor.
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I've decided the first issue w/ my new-to-me jetta I want to focus on is the cooling fan constantly running. I suspect this is potentially related to the temp gauge not reading anything, which I suspect might be because of the coolant temp sensor.
So basically, when I turn the key to on (I'm pretty sure it's on, not start), one of the cooling can comes on. It's the fan on the right side as if you are sitting in the driver seat. I've been looking at the wiring diagram for this issue as well, and the only other thing I can think of that isn't a computer involving issue would be the thermo switch. But it seems like both fans should be coming on in that case, and it's definitely only the one fan that is coming on.
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I have a problem with the engine cooling fan (driver side) - is not running. The other fan is working properly. On this arrangement driving on the high way the engine cooling is OK. Driving in the city the oil temperature is richening 215 -220 F (however the water temp. is OK at 200F) and the AC unit is stopping (I am assuming because of that). V8 Phaeton...
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2nd time happening to me: I started my car, backed up and drove few hundred feet before stopping at a traffic light.
While stopping there, I noticed the engine cooling fan was running at max and the temperature was going rapidly up (in less than 10sec the gauge almost hit the red line).
While the gauge was going up I shifted the gear stick to P and the gauge dropped to normal in less than 5sec.
I shifted back to D and the car drove normally ever since.
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I have a 93 pontiac grand am 3300 V6 with auto tranny. My problem is cooling fan starts running as soon as car is started. AC not on or defrost. In turn doesn't allow engine to reach normal operating temp. I have replaced both the ect sensor & gauge sending unit. I've noticed there's a red light with temp symbol in lower left hand corner of instrument panel that stays on & won't allow ac to come on. Also if I unplug fan relay & allow engine to come up to operating temp the light hoes off. Until the engine drops below 200degrees then it'll come on again. It has just the one fan & I have ruled out the fan relay cause I replaced with a new one. Also, looking for wiring diagram for the rest of relays on firewall & as to what they control.
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Just bought a 2013 GS 350 FSport. Noticed the cooling fan runs kinda loud. Seems to run a little louder than prior cars. Had the car inspected at a Lexus dealer before purchase. They didn't say anything about it.
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We're on our 3rd hybrid. Our new RX450h traction battery cooling fan under the back seat seems to run consistently after the car is driven for a few minutes. Our previous Prius and CT200h did not exhibit this. Is this typical of the 450h?
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Have a 2001 Subaru Legacy GT, 5 speed manual, 194,000 miles.
A few months ago, I started noticing that my cooling fans are running more often. Even when it is cold out and the temperature gauge was at normal temperature. The fans would turn on, and just keep running. Obviously, they would turn off when I shut the car off, but if the car is on, they will stay on. However, I found a trick to get them to turn off. If I am in neutral, and I race the engine up to around 3000 RPM's or so for about 10 seconds, and let it come back down to idle speed, the fans are now off. Works almost every time, not just a coincidence.
I know my car, and this has never done this before. I know it is not normal. I have replaced the following- thermostat, coolant temperature sensor, flushed the system, changed the fan relays, and most recently, I put a brand new Subaru radiator in. All of this, and the issue is still there. I am beginning to wonder if it is the water pump. Coolant not circulating fast enough, so the fans come on to cool down, but when I race the engine, the water pump works harder circulating coolant faster? Also recently, the temp gauge starts to climb going up long steep grades. If I pull over and race the engine, the temp gauge drops almost immediately back to normal. The pump is not leaking or making any noise, so I'm not sure if it could go bad any other way.
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99 lumina. Ac was not working. I added a few oz's and the compressor clicked on but cooling fans were not running. After 10 min of idling the fans did come on but went off after 1-2 minutes. It seemed like they were responding to coolant temp more than ac pressure. Do the fans run when the hi pressure rises to a certain point where the computer will turn on fans?
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