Toyota - Corolla :: 2010 - Tranny Downshift Very Hard When Using Cruise Control
Jan 11, 2016
The car is a 2010 Corolla S with about 85K miles, I bought used in Jan 2015. This problem mostly happens when I am using the cruise control. I will be going up a hill at about 65 and regularly but not always the trany will downshift with a very hard "bang" like running over a pipe. It will make the shifts in a normal smooth manner at other times going up hills in cruise control. This hard shift is very abrupt and startling if not ready for it. In can do this when not in cruise control if at highway speed in accelerate to pass but not as consistent. It has not done it at in town driving.
I took it to the dealer, as I had a warranty, and took the tech for a ride so he could feel it. I was told the next day the warranty company says this is "normal" behavior. I do not believe this to be normal.
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I installed an aftermarket cruise (Rostra) in my manual 2007 Corolla. Other than cutting the hole for the stalk the only real difficulty was getting my fat hands up under the dash to install the clutch disconnect switch. It certainly didn't involve any wire cutting or messing around with the ECM.
It's a long story, but through a sequence of events I have to opportunity to buy a 2010 base Corolla 5 speed at a pretty good deal. It also doesn't have a cruise control. I went tot eh Rostra website just to make sure cruise units are available and I looked at the installation instructions. Unless I read the wrong sheet, their instructions make it seem like installing cruise on a 2010 involves messing with the ECM wiring harness, moving connectors and a bunch of scary stuff like that.
It seems strange to me that the older car would be "plug and play" but a newer one would need changes to the main wiring harnesses. I'm not talking about a steering wheel mounted system where the clock spring has to be replaced, just a basic cruise.
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The cruise control on my 2013 works as I expected.
However the cruise control on my 2016 Sonata does not.
When driving at highway speeds (65 to 70 mph) in cruise control and the shifter set on "D" (drive) the transmission will down shift to 4th speed whenever I go down hill.
This might be intentional as a way to keep the car from exceeding the set speed, but I have never heard of this and it would seem to place more wear an tear on the transmissions.
Do the down shifting is engineered in or if it is a service problem that I need to have addressed...
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I'm at my wit's end trying to install cruise control in my 2009 Corolla. I thought it was a relatively easy install, but then after putting the airbag in place, I find that the horn no longer works. I test out the cruise control, and the green "Cruise" lights up on the dashboard..but it doesn't actually work.
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2010 Toyota Corolla, 5spd. I was trying to get it up a snowy/icy hill this weekend and, although I succeeded, the car made a very scary noise that I couldn't decipher. Here's what happened:
When the traction control engages, it makes a sound like the ABS engaging. That wasn't the noise that worried me. I was feathering the clutch and trying to massage the car up the slippery incline, and it started making a loud rhythmic banging noise. It sounded like what happens when you're parked and you think the car's off, but it's not, and you take your foot off the clutch. The clutch engages and makes a bang, and the engine stalls. (Not that I've ever done that before.) That's what it sounded like going up the hill, but about twice a second and very steady.
As soon as I heard it, I tried releasing the clutch pedal all the way, I tried feathering the clutch more, I modulated the throttle a bit, but honestly I was 3/4 of the way up the hill after 45 minutes of trying and I didn't want to stop! So I bang-bang-banged twenty feet up the hill or so, then when I stopped at the top the car seemed fine. I've since driven it another 300 miles of city and highway and no issues whatsoever.
Now, I've driven stick for twenty years and dozens of cars and am very comfortable in my own skill. This clutch has always seemed a little screwy since we bought the car, but the dealer mechanic told me (when I mentioned it early on) that it's normal. It's hard to describe why I think it's screwy but it doesn't feel like any other clutch I've driven, new or old. Including, every once in a while, when I'm pulling away from a stop sign in normal (dry) conditions, the clutch will chatter a couple times as I engage it. It's far from a consistent or reproducible problem, and I always wrote it off until this recent episode that sounded/felt similar but much much worse.
Could there be oil on the clutch plates? Could this have something to do with the traction control.
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My 2010 Subaru Outback recently surprised the hell out of me by simultaneously turning on the brake warning light, the traction control light, the check engine light and (just for a bonus!) disabled my cruise control while flashing the cruise control light. I pulled over, quickly surmising that all of those systems could not have failed at 70 MPH without instantaneous death to either me or the vehicle. Both apparently still being alive, I tried turning the car on an off to reset the lights. No go. Subaru was not going to miss this chance to get me to the dealership! (who I had avoided to this point!) As I was far away from home and the car being very healthy, it seemed, I decided to drive on. I proceeded to put a couple of hundred more miles on the car before I got back to town.
My car had 39,000 miles on it, 3,000 miles beyond the warranty end. I learned that I have an error code of P0171, "Fuel Trim Malfunction (Air/Fuel too lean)". So I guess I'm wondering about a few things...why would this sensor set off every light on my dashboard and disable my cruise control? Seems a bit overblown for running a bit lean. My gut tells me Subaru has a sensor/software problem they are not owning up to. I'm a big fan of conspiracy theories and this really smells like one...
Second, jeez, I'm only 3K miles over warranty, don't you think they'd cut me some slack. I mean I love my Subaru, or did anyway, until this happened. Now it's just another POS car that breaks for no apparent reason...
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I have a 2010 S with an auto trans and 68,000 miles. I've never replaced the fluid or filter. Over the last 10,000 miles or so, I've noticed the following in regards to shifting.
I will being on a merge ramp to the highway rolling along and waiting to pull out into the flow of traffic. I'll be traveling along at a constant speed, say 30 mph, with constant pressure on the throttle waiting for my opening in traffic. I will see my opening and floor it. That's when (sometimes) the car seems to get very confused. It doesn't shift back right away, it lingers in 3rd (or OD) and picks up a tiny bit of speed. Then, it hesitates with no acceleration, and then roughly shifts to 2nd or 1st. It feels more like it forces itself into gear and, once in gear, it accelerates like it should.
The biggest issue for me is that this whole process takes about 3 or 4 seconds. That's not very long, but when you're trying to merge onto the highway or cut into traffic, 3 seconds is the difference between being safe and a close call.
Transmission fluid appears to be full, is a nice red color, and doesn't smell burnt.
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While driving to Calif. from Ariz., on I 10, dropping down into Indio on a mild grade, at 75mph, when I came to the steepest section the transmission down shifted, rpm's rose and it felt like the engine was keeping the mph at the set speed, by providing more drag which it did. I have had many auto with transmissions and cruise control, been descending steeper grades, and never have had this happen. The vehicle is a 2014 Avalon. It would be a nice feature if it had been designed to do this auto braking, but I don't think that it ia supposed to do this?
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Ive had my Camry since around September of last year. It had between 100-110k miles at the time of purchase.
In the last 3 months, Ive started to notice that sometimes when I am on the road & switch on the cruise control, the setting appears to have trouble engaging. On some occasions the cruise control does not even switch on at all when I hit the "set" button, while at other times I can feel the setting turn on and off intermittently, while I feel the engine respond accordingly with more or less gas with each time it goes on and off.I can also see the cruise control light on my dashboard begin to flash on and off each time this happens.
This does not happen every time I drive, but I must say Ive never seen anything like this before in any other car Ive ever had, and I find whats happening here to be both very strange as well as very annoying.
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My trusty 1994 Ford F150 is starting to show her age, I think. I'm noticing a few issues:
1 - most concerning to me is she jerks pretty hard when shifting through the first few gears during relatively warm weather. The cold snap has abated the issue for now. Had the transmission fluid checked - mechanic said it's fine.
2 - This is a fun electrical issue. I'm driving down the highway when suddenly the cruise control shuts off, as does the speedometer and the digital odometer. The Tach still works, as do the rest of the gauges. Maybe 10 - 15 minutes later, they all come back on. It's done this a couple times.
3# - Really annoying but very minor; when I push down on the foot feed, there's a bit of a squeak in the engine. I'm guessing it's a tensioner pulley on the serpentine belt, but why it would only happen when I give it some gas?
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My Prius cruise control will intermittently not activate when I try to turn it on. One day it will turn on and work fine. The next day I can not get it to turn on. I took the panel off of the back side of the lever and the contacts look ok for the on/off button.
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I have a 91 735i, 4sp auto, 3.5lt. Usually around constant speed of 40-45 the tranny will downshift then up then downshift an sometimes it will downshift to 2nd which scares me thinking it might downshift to 1st an explode the engine or tranny. If I engage cruise control it does not downshift. This does not happen all the time but when it does it can be very severe with jerking and slamming into an out of gear. The trans has a dipstick and the fluid does not look bad. I replaced head gasket and it was doing great for about a month and then poof the downshifting started.
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So my 4motion downshifts going downhill while braking...it's annoying as hell! My DSG used to do the same thing but being a faster tranny it was actually NOT annoying... Is there a way to reflash the tranny software? Maybe with an older code because my 06 didn't do this but my 08 does...
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I'm worried about my beloved 02 Toyota Rav4. She's been a great car, we've driven all over the continent, never had a mechanical problem. Lately, particularly on humid days, my cruise control will stop working mid-trip and at the same time the RPMs start running high, nearly twice what they usually are. It lasts until I get home, next time I start her she's fine. The guys at the shop never find anything. The engine control module was replaced last year under an "extended warranty."
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Very strange issue today. While driving in stop and go traffic (Auto Sport Mode). I noticed the car was starting in 2nd gear. Next stop I switched over to M and it would still not downshift to 1st even with the paddles or shifter. Once I started moving I could manually downshift just fine. Car seemed to shift normal. Eventually got the VSC / CEL . Here are the codes:
Pending:
PO301 - CYL 1 Misfire
C3101 - no details
C3411 - no details
C3000 - no details
Historical:
P0A11 - DC/DC Converter Enable circuit open
All of the codes cleared and did not reappear while idling. I have not driven the car yet. It also goes back into 1st now while stopped although I haven't tested coming to a stop. Will do that tomorrow
One thing to note that was out of the ordinary today. For some reason I was absolutely freezing (which should be impossible this time of year in SC) so I turned the AC off before this started and the idle dropped very low (400 - 500) which I seem to remember being normal but I almost never run with my AC compressor off unless I'm in race mode and I'm usually not putting along in stop and go traffic if that is the case. Not sure if this has anything to do with it but perhaps the low idle caused a voltage issue which tripped the codes.
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My 01 tundra can bog down under load - going up a long hill or towing a trailer - with the speed and RPMs steadily dropping until it finally downshifts, and the RPMS shoot up to 4k or so, but I don't regain much speed. This is without cruise control. If I have the cruise control on the problem does not occur. The truck slows, but in a normal way expected under the circumstances. The CEL is not on. No codes are being recorded. The Tranny fluid is full and smells fine.
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Ok, today on my way to work, I got up to speed and turned on the cruise control. It worked fine. I then stopped on my way to work to get a bottle of water. I got up to speed and went to hit Set. Nothing would happen. I ended up getting off at the next exit and turn off the car completely. Restarted the car and got back on the interstate. Got up to speed, turned on the cruise and hit Set. It worked. On my way home, no problems. It was just strange.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Sienna. At first I noticed that the dashboard light showing the left turn signal was on would light up when I put on the headlights. A few days later, I discovered that the left turn signal stops working when I apply the break. Also, when I'm using cruise control and use my left turn signal, the cruise control stops maintaining speed.
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If i am driving say for 15 mins on the highway at 65-75 mpg with a few brakes and accelerations in between due to other cars around, is it better to use the cruise control (i have adaptive cruise control on my prius v) and let the car figure out the throttle and braking or is it better to just drive by myself without using cruise control? i read about the different pulse-glide driving methods.
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Won't turn on and if and when it does turn on it won't set.
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So my cruise is giving me issues, won't set the speed. Turns on and off no problem but set and resume do not work. However, turn off the car and then re-start it and the cruise works again. I know the radio is only up to 60k.
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