Toyota - Corolla :: 2010 - Horrible Noise While Climbing Up Icy Hill With Traction Control?
Feb 4, 2015
2010 Toyota Corolla, 5spd. I was trying to get it up a snowy/icy hill this weekend and, although I succeeded, the car made a very scary noise that I couldn't decipher. Here's what happened:
When the traction control engages, it makes a sound like the ABS engaging. That wasn't the noise that worried me. I was feathering the clutch and trying to massage the car up the slippery incline, and it started making a loud rhythmic banging noise. It sounded like what happens when you're parked and you think the car's off, but it's not, and you take your foot off the clutch. The clutch engages and makes a bang, and the engine stalls. (Not that I've ever done that before.) That's what it sounded like going up the hill, but about twice a second and very steady.
As soon as I heard it, I tried releasing the clutch pedal all the way, I tried feathering the clutch more, I modulated the throttle a bit, but honestly I was 3/4 of the way up the hill after 45 minutes of trying and I didn't want to stop! So I bang-bang-banged twenty feet up the hill or so, then when I stopped at the top the car seemed fine. I've since driven it another 300 miles of city and highway and no issues whatsoever.
Now, I've driven stick for twenty years and dozens of cars and am very comfortable in my own skill. This clutch has always seemed a little screwy since we bought the car, but the dealer mechanic told me (when I mentioned it early on) that it's normal. It's hard to describe why I think it's screwy but it doesn't feel like any other clutch I've driven, new or old. Including, every once in a while, when I'm pulling away from a stop sign in normal (dry) conditions, the clutch will chatter a couple times as I engage it. It's far from a consistent or reproducible problem, and I always wrote it off until this recent episode that sounded/felt similar but much much worse.
Could there be oil on the clutch plates? Could this have something to do with the traction control.
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I had a very strong burning rubber smell coming from under my Prius tonight after climbing a moderate hill at 40kph/25mph for approximately 3 to 4 minutes. The car had been driven for about 50 minutes through regular traffic, outside temp was 7C/44F and I drove up to a scenic outlook. When I pulled into the parking lot, we put the passenger window down and the burning rubber smell was very strong.
I searched all around using a small flashlight and couldn't see anything touching the exhaust, but it's difficult to see anything under a Prius with it's low ground clearance. The burning rubber smell was strongest under the car, but was getting pulled into the HVAC system when we stopped. I have smelled it before, but passed it off as other vehicles. After tonight, i'm sure its coming from my car. I drove the car home for 50 minutes through stop and go city traffic, so the engine was not always running. After parking, I checked under the car again and the smell was very light almost non-existent.
I have 13000km/8000mi on the car, and I have had it for 11months. It has been driven in hills and very hot weather last summer, so I don't think this is paint burning off or the car getting hot for the first time.
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Here is the deal I have an autocross event coming up this weekend, and a 2010 corolla with traction control. How can I disable the traction control for more than just a few seconds? It is strange that when I hit the button after about 15 seconds the traction control comes back on.
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Ok...not sure were to go with this or how to explain it, while climbing a steep paved hill at 5-10 mph I get a rumbling vibration and noise. If I were to guess almost like axle wrap is causing the U Joints to bind or something. Runs and drives fine other then that. If I put it in 4x4 it does not happen, only seems to happen when wheels cant slip while climbing hills at LOW speed.
Don't notice it if climbing a dirt hill. There is a hill at the kids baseball fields that is steep and paved that its really bad on, way to busy right now to play on it to see what's happening. Tranny was looked at and oil changed.
New BDS 4" lift - had same issue prior to lift, though stock springs were worn.
Searched the form but really didn't come up with anything at this low of speed. While in Wisconsin the resort we were at the paved hills were so steep it felt like something was going to break. Put it in 4x4 and it was fine. This was with stock leafs.
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The car is a 2010 Corolla S with about 85K miles, I bought used in Jan 2015. This problem mostly happens when I am using the cruise control. I will be going up a hill at about 65 and regularly but not always the trany will downshift with a very hard "bang" like running over a pipe. It will make the shifts in a normal smooth manner at other times going up hills in cruise control. This hard shift is very abrupt and startling if not ready for it. In can do this when not in cruise control if at highway speed in accelerate to pass but not as consistent. It has not done it at in town driving.
I took it to the dealer, as I had a warranty, and took the tech for a ride so he could feel it. I was told the next day the warranty company says this is "normal" behavior. I do not believe this to be normal.
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For some reason, when I go up/down driveways, pull into parking lots with sloped curbs, etc, my traction control will engage and there is a grinding noise in the back on the back brakes. I don't know if this is normal or not. I had all the brakes replaced recently but that didn't stop the issue, so I don't know if this is just normal or what. Is this normal and if not, what it might be?
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My wife has an 08 with a little over 50k miles. When under load (climbing a hill) with the AC on, the engine "rattles". This sounds like classic detonation to me. It stops when I turn off the AC or she lets off the gas. I have tried running several tanks of super unleaded with no improvement. I have searched here and checked a few things others have mentioned as well, such as a loose hood prop rod with no success.
The car just started doing this around 3-4k miles ago. Last week I changed the spark plugs, even though they are way under the mileage where I should change them. The plugs looked normal, a light tan color, with no unusual deposits or anything out of the ordinary. . Last night I checked and the engine coolant was a little low, so I topped it off. This had no effect as this afternoon on the way home I heard the same clatter when climbing a long hill. All this started back in march when the outside temps were still in the mid 80's... I wonder if it is possible that the pistons already have carbon at this low of mileage ?
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Today I was 160 miles into a 250 mile drive and things were going well. I was cruising at about 75-80mph and approaching a fairly long hill of moderate grade. As I climbed the hill, my rpm was dropping, as expected before a downshift. The downshift never happened. I kept pushing more pedal and eventually, at maybe 40mph, it downshifted, but still no power. Engine being held at around 2500 rpm. No power no matter how much I pushed. Down hill I was able to resume speed but as soon as the next uphill, same thing, no power, no shift. Pulled over, it was raining hard. Checked for wet fuse box, control modules, pcm, wiring harnesses, everything dry. Checked all fuses. Disconnected battery in hopes of forcing reset, no change.
Checked trans fluid, it was clean, red, full, and unburnt. No visual wires broken or chafed. No odd smells or sounds. Nothing noticeably hot. Truck hits 45mph max on flat ground. I limped it this way for 20 miles. If I push my foot to the floor to really force a downshift, engine will rev freely up to redline with no resistance once it downshifts. If I let the rpm drop down, it will catch and lock back in. Now when I come to a stop the truck has a very lopey and rough idle and will stall once I come to a complete stop. It will stay running if I give it gas. In neutral and park the engine still has a lopey idle and is rough. Will possibly die at times. Sounds smooth and perfect when you rev it in neutral or park. Reacts as it should with no hesitations. No check engine light and no flashing OD light. Will shift into all gears, just moves through them with no power. Let truck sit for 3 hours, issue remains.
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Decided to try a new wheel to see if I can stop the surge during hill climbing with our 5er. Old wheel looked great with no dusting or nicks. New wheel sure has a whirl when it spools up, but sounds cool. Haven't pulled trailer since swap yet. Truck still only has 85k on the clock.
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2006 fx4 f150 5.4 flex 52,000 miles ... Just got home from a 800 mile round trip vacation, seems I've developed a miss or a tranny problem. The truck runs/idles fine, shifts fine, everything is as normal. Except maybe 12 times while under a load, like climbing a hill, the truck would "bump" that's the only way I can describe it. I only noticed it in Drive/Overdrive. I hoped I had water in the gas so I added gas treatment at 2 fill ups, still seems to do it occasionally. Where to start? I'm going to get a fuel filter today, the one that's on it only has about 12k on it....
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I have a 99 explorer that stops blowing air when I get on the gas or climbing a hill. The motor is still blowing but it stops air coming out the vents. What could be causing this? It works fine other than that.
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I've got an 09 XRS. Every time I slide it in a corner the thing beeps to tell me I've slid and the traction control (or whatever they call it) has engaged. I know I can turn it all off but sometimes I don't want to come to a complete stop and sit there holding the button for 5 seconds, I just want to drive and don't really care if I slide around and get "saved" by my car. This morning I was driving in about 6" of fresh pud (heavy snow) on the road and it was driving me nuts. All I really want to do is make it stop beeping, it keeps waking my wife up. Is it possible to shut the damned thing up?
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My 2010 Subaru Outback recently surprised the hell out of me by simultaneously turning on the brake warning light, the traction control light, the check engine light and (just for a bonus!) disabled my cruise control while flashing the cruise control light. I pulled over, quickly surmising that all of those systems could not have failed at 70 MPH without instantaneous death to either me or the vehicle. Both apparently still being alive, I tried turning the car on an off to reset the lights. No go. Subaru was not going to miss this chance to get me to the dealership! (who I had avoided to this point!) As I was far away from home and the car being very healthy, it seemed, I decided to drive on. I proceeded to put a couple of hundred more miles on the car before I got back to town.
My car had 39,000 miles on it, 3,000 miles beyond the warranty end. I learned that I have an error code of P0171, "Fuel Trim Malfunction (Air/Fuel too lean)". So I guess I'm wondering about a few things...why would this sensor set off every light on my dashboard and disable my cruise control? Seems a bit overblown for running a bit lean. My gut tells me Subaru has a sensor/software problem they are not owning up to. I'm a big fan of conspiracy theories and this really smells like one...
Second, jeez, I'm only 3K miles over warranty, don't you think they'd cut me some slack. I mean I love my Subaru, or did anyway, until this happened. Now it's just another POS car that breaks for no apparent reason...
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My current 08 duty was bought with what I believe to be a procomp 6" lift modified to an 8" lift. The 100 mile drive home after buying the truck showed a tiny "hop" in the rear. I ditched the 37s for some new 35s. Still a tiny hop, mostly noticeable while under a load like climbing a hill. I pulled the rear driveshaft and had it fully rebuilt with a new carrier bearing as well. Still gots the hop? The truck has a carrier bearing drop bracket but I think it may be insufficient for the lift.
The rear driveshaft still has a slight bend in the middle of where the two driveshaft pieces connect. Are the 2 piece driveshafts on your 8" lifted trucks sitting straight with each other or do they have this bend as well?? I am thinking if I get a bigger drop bracket it may cure this slight hop I have? Lots of lifted trucks where I live but they are dam near all shortbox with 1 piece rear shafts so I haven't been able to find one to compare. By the way, my truck also has pro comp rear traction bars..
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Alright so I have an 09 Corolla sport and cannot find the traction control button. I feel extremely stupid but I just can't find it..
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So I'm having a problem, which I'm pretty sure is the switch. The traction control light won't turn off no matter how many times I've pressed the button. The orange light is really annoying now and I need to get it fixed. What should I do?
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My Abs traction control vsc off (keeps flashing) and brake light went on in my 2010 corolla....
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Was climbing a steep hill at 35 mph just before truck down shifted to 2nd, I was hearing a pinging sound. Sounded like only I cylinder was doing so. What it could be. I am currently running a 1/4 tank of Fppf fuel injector cleaner. Is this a injector noise. No knocking just a slight pinging.
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Just purchased a 2009 Matrix XRS Manual transmission with 67,000 miles on it. I can't get the VSC Off and Traction lights on the panel to go out.
During our test drive, I had turned the system on and off to make sure it was working, and didn't seem to have any trouble with it.
I went to have it inspected yesterday. During the test, they hook up to the ODBII port to check emissions. The tech had trouble getting it connected the first time, saying the connection was going in and out. Eventually, they were able to get it connected properly and passed the inspection.
After they pulled the car out of the bay, the VSC Off and Traction lights were solid on, and they have been every time I've started the car since. Checking the manual, all I should have to do to turn the system back on is press the traction button, but that doesn't seem to be working at all. I also tried holding it down for 30 seconds or so with no luck.
The lights aren't flashing, so I don't think this is an error, I'm wondering if the computer got confused somehow with the ODBII port issues.
Stuff I've tried:
1. Followed these instructions for the Highlander Hybrid thinking maybe Toyotas will generally do this. That just caused most of the lights to flash on the panel and didn't bring up any VSC diagnostic messages.
2. I pulled the panel from the dash out to check to make sure the button was working, and I do get connectivity between the two outside pins while the button is pushed in.
how to get this to reset, or what the problem might be?
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I have had my 2002 Toyota 4 Runner SR5 for a few years now and it's been a vRttery. But now they are coming on within each fill up and within the first 100 miles of driving. So I had this Mobil Mechanic come by a couple of times and tell me that his little gizmo says that it is the Catalytic converter. Of course I'm skeptical because the Trac and VSC lights are on as well as the Check light. I'm thinking that maybe he has a cheapo little gizmo and that maybe it has something to do with the brake system.What do you think?
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I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla with 75,000 miles on it. Over the last few days, I have noticed that there is a rattling noise occurring in the front passenger side of my car around the glove box area when the heat is on. As soon as the heat is turned off, the rattling goes away. It's a relatively faint, whistling noise. The rattling does not change loudness or frequency if I drive faster or slower. It only changes with the heater being on/off. I'm thinking it is either something with the car heater or maybe there is some debris stuck somewhere?
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