Took my 2008 Corolla in for its 60,000 mile checkup. It was recommended that the front brake pads be changed as they were getting low. It is now one week later. Now the front brakes creak when coming to a full stop. I have noticed that the creaking seems to happen more on the way back home from work, and seems less pronounced in the morning.
View 3 RepliesWe have a 2005 Toyota Corolla whose brakes have been a problem since we bought the car four years ago. Every time our mechanic changes the brakes they squeak. They do not squeak for the entire time you hold the brakes, nor do they squeak when you slam the brakes.
They squeak once when you step on the brakes to come to a slow stop. This go around with the brake replacement, our mechanic has put two sets of new pads and shoes on. The first were the ceramic kind, this next one is the Toyota brand, the highest quality. Why the brakes are still squeaking.
First question, is this dangerous? The second question is, what the heck is going on? We have been back to him so many times.
It happens most often when the going over bumps and uneven roads, I tend not to hear when going over potholes (probably because the sound of the crash over potholes tend to overpower the squeaks.) It sounds like it's coming from the rear right-side.
So, it must be the suspension then, right? You would think so, except:
It sounds like it's coming from inside the car rather than outside. Since I have the windows all rolled up, the squeaks would have to be pretty loud for me to hear it, if it's coming from outside.
Did the bounce test, pushed it with most of my weight to hear if it makes any sound. It doesn't.
Car: 2007 Corolla.
I have a 2008 Pruis that acts like it has a plugged heater core but I wonder if there is more to it. I thought it had air in the system so I drew the cooling system down with vacuum and was able to get another half quart of coolant in it with a radkit plus vacuum coolant filling tool but it did not change anything. At idle there is no heat until you go up a hill at highway speeds when the heat starts to flow. As soon as the engine slows down or shuts off, there is no heat again. I was going to backflush the heater core but after I noticed all the valves and pumps in the cooling system, I stopped because I wondered if there could be a problem with any of those mechanical parts in the heating system. I don't think that there is still air in the system because the engine temperature is good and the coolant level is full when you remove the radiator cap. With the engine idling, all the hoses in the front of the engine are hot including to the heater storage tank. If you touch the aluminum pipes going into and out of the heater core, one is hot and the other is cold. Should my next step be to back flush the heater core?
View 18 RepliesFront driver side brake squeals on a stop and release. This is the only side that produces this noise. Brake clearance is still very good and this noise has been off and on since i bought the car in December. Car has about 25k miles on it and will be replacing brakes at 30k.
Brake issue - YouTube .....
I just noticed 2 rust spots on the back quarter panel in front of the wheel well on my Corolla. Then I looked on the other side, and found rust in the exact same spot. It looks like the rust is near some bolts that are holding on (what looks like) a small plastic mud flap (I'm not really sure if that is the correct technical name). Anyway, is that normal to have rust in the same spot on both sides, or is it defective? This is the only car I've ever purchased new so I was planning on keeping it, like, FOREVER. I think I've taken pretty good care of it so I plan to have it fixed. Just wondering if I should bring it to Toyota.
View 15 RepliesJust got a 2013 IS-F. Loving this car, but discovered an annoying issue. Grinding noise coming from front brakes when slowly coming to a stop below 5 mph. Is this normal?
View 9 RepliesFirst it was the RH now after replacing the rotors, calipers and new shoes. The LH is now doing it. It doesn't stop the truck just gets hot, the wheel, and u can smell it. The truck is a 97 f150 ext cab 2wd short box, had since new and has over 200,000 miles and going strange until now. I want to get 300000.0 before I let her go. Had to replace a rear axle brake line years ago, and do not think the lines were bleed right, the brakes never work just right.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 Corolla LE with approx 63k miles. The problem I am having is when approaching about 45 mph, a slight rattle begins to make noise and it gets faster/louder as my speed increases. It is a noise that sounds like something is vibrating on the inside of the dash/in the engine bay. I have opened up the glove box and replaced the cabin air filter, and even drove around with the glove box dropped down to see if the noise is coming from the interior. It sounded the same with the glove box dropped down. I have done research with the service bulletins and even secured the washer hose suspecting that was the problem but it made no difference.
It is very frustrating to me because it does not seem to be affected by anything but speed. After hitting 45 mph it begins and will go away after going below 45. Changing any of the AC/blower knobs makes no difference. It does not seem to change the way the vehicle performs in any way either. Just an annoyance more than anything!
I experience a jump or jerk when rolling towards e.g. a stop sign or traffic light, or even in stop-and-go traffic and the transmission shifts down into first gear. The jerk only happens when I stop slowly. If I break fairly hard, this problem does not appear. It even jumps/jerks when I roll down my driveway, breaking slightly. In some cases, I fear that I'll leave the gearbox on the street.
This, of course, does not happen every time, but frequently enough that I asked my VW dealer to take a look at the problem. They changed my spark plugs and said that this may have been the reason
Can not quite make this connection, and of course on my way home the same jump/jerks happen, as on my way to work this morning. I want to take my car back to the dealer, but hopefully with some more insight, since they appear to be clueless.
Symptoms:
1. As I'm coming to a stop the rpms drop to about 4-500 and the battery light comes on.
2. But instead of shutting off the car revs itself to about 1.5k and does this about 2 or 3 times. (bouncing between 500 and 1.5k rpms.)
3. Car then either settles at a normal idle, or it turns off.
This happens when I'm coming to a stop in neutral or 1st with the clutch pressed down. If I come to a stop in 2nd gear with the clutch down it either does nothing, or just 1 and 2 but doesn't shut off.
Recently i have been noticing a vibration that wasn't there a while back. I installed an Autotech insert about 5k ago, didn't notice it right away, but it's pretty pronounced now. Also have koni's, APR stg II, B&B TBE and APR intake if that's relevant...
The vibration is especially noticeable when i come to a slow stop, either in gear, clutch in, or in neutral. It's a relatively loud thumping that can be felt through the brake pedal, and through the car when foot not on the brake. Seems to get increase as I get closer to stopping, then lightens up a bit when stopped. If i take it off-idle while sitting still by a minimal amount, it completely goes away.
Also, from a gradual start, there is a brief but loud squeak / groan as the clutch engages. If i am a little more aggressive, it doesn't happen.
I do not beat on this car at all, don't launch it hard, or anything like that. Was thinking about taking the Autotech insert out to see if that changes anything, but my back isn't really feeling up to the task this weekend.
weird thing happens in my 2.0 manual jetta. every 1500ish miles, when coming to a stop, it feels like my car is about to stall but its not in gear.The trip milage will reset, radio will turn off, dash will dim, but no CEL. Since then key fob doesnt work (replaced fob batteries), and my DRL are off. still cold starts no problem (figure its not the battery), trying to figure out if i can get closer to what needs a fix before tearing into something unrelated.
View 3 RepliesMy DSG is great until I drive it for a while. Yesterday, for example, I left work and drove twenty miles, mostly freeway. Then I stopped at an all natural drive thru (sonic) and when I let off the break, from a stop, it lunged and sounded like it was going to die. When I pressed the accelerator to move even more the tranny was loud and jerky still. I parked it for a few hours and when I jumped into it, she was fine once again. So it appears that it is only after driving or warming up good that it acts this way. I have an appointment Tuesday to get it looked at, but I doubt they will take the time to drive it that long and say to me, "everything is fine".
View 20 Replies95 manual trans Subaru Legacy (lack of power), Everyday at least once my car will cut off when I come to a stop. Also, at least once a day it seems like there is no gas pressure. What I mean is I will just be driving along and no gas is getting to where it needs to be. I can pump the gas pedal and the gas engages again. There seems to be no rhyme or reason. It doesn't matter what the lay of the land is. I will say it has occured an increased number of times over the past 2 very warm days. It could be it's just getting worse.
View 2 RepliesBought my first Diesel few weeks ago and I am trying to figure out if something is normal. Its a 2004 F350 and the truck seems to jerk a little bit when I come to a stop and when I hit on the gas. Feels like a tug every time into gear.
I would like to say its first to second but it cant be because its basically only happens when I press on the gas and start rolling, unless I am going into second immediately thats not it. I know less than dick about this truck?
2000 toyota corolla feels like it has no brakesI had the brake master cylinder replaced a few months ago - so that's not itThe mechanic also replaced the shoes - so that's not itAfter I told him it still feels like the is low etc. he adjusted them or something - so that's not itIt still feels the sameWhat should I do?
View 7 RepliesWe have a 2004 Jetta with about 92,000 miles on it. We bought it used in October 2012 after 3 months needed rebuilt transmission, and many other problems but the most recent has been costly with no mechanic being able to repair. These are some of the problems that we are faced with. While in drive the vehicle feels like its gonna stall but starts to beep the clock resets and car continues to drive with no problems or the car won't start at all.
You open the car door no keys are in the ignition but the car is clicking and clock and miles are fading in and out, light on door panel blinking, you push flashers and it makes a strange noise but flashers are not blinking. You put key in and try to start the car and nothing the blinking and clicking stop and it does nothing turn key back in off position clicking and blinking start again.
Car just stalls when approaching stop signs. No mechanic has been able to fix problem or duplicate issues. I do have video of the interior clicking and flashing and noises it makes.
We have a 1998 Toyota Corolla with 170k miles. The brakes are squeaking and grinding often. In Feb. the front brake pads were replaced, but the noises continued. In May, they replaced the front pads again, within a week the grinding and squeaking continued. Finally, I took the car in late July and had the mechanic drive the car around. He said the back brakes were making the "grinding" noise and the front was squeaking. He said it was "cheap brake parts". When he looked at the brakes he said the back brakes needed adjusting and may not be working as well, therefore making the front brakes work hard. This caused the front brakes to get hot and develop a glaze. He adjusted the back brakes and scratched up the front brakes. The car was fine for about 2 weeks or so. The sounds have gotten progressively worse and I refuse to drive the car. The brakes seem to work, but the sound is so terrible like something is loose, or off and scraping metal. We have used this mechanic for years with a recommendation from our neighbors.
View 4 RepliesI have a 220k 1994 Corolla with I have come across a couple problems recently. It all started about a week ago when I decided to change my rear brake shoes. The old ones turned out to be all cracked and everything but were generally in pretty good shape in terms of wear. Anyways I put the new shoes in (my first brake job) and tightened up the e brake cable and went for a test drive. I walked away extremely satisfied, the e brake worked perfect which was my main reason for changing the shoes in the first place.
Basically the whole thing worked perfectly until 2 days later. I was driving for about 8 miles when my brake pedal suddenly fell through to the floor (or pretty close) at first I even thought I hit the clutch pedal! anyways after pumping the pedal a few times my pedal feel returned about 70% and after another maybe 10 seconds braking power was lost again until I pumped the pedal. So lucky for me my destination was a 1/4 mile away so I parked and checked the fluid level; it was at the max mark, then I check the wheels/drums and they were REALLY hot.
Also the driver's side drum had a faint smell of brake fluid. Anyways about an hour later I went for a short drive and the brakes worked fine so an hour after that I drove the 8 miles home and about 1/8 of a mile from home same thing happened; brake pedal basically goes almost down to the floor until pumped. My thoughts were that the new shoes were constantly rubbing and the old fluid overheated and caused failure so I flushed the system and put new fluid in and adjusted the shoes "in" with the click adjuster bolt. I had a really hard time getting the drums of to begin with. That and I loosened the e brake cable just in case.
So the next morning I drive about 5 miles without using the brakes pulled over to check that the drums were not heating up anymore (they weren't) so I thought I had fixed it. Well 3 days later (last night) I was experiencing the rear brake stickiness again. Basically when I was just moving from a stop where I had used the e brake to secure the car, I could literally feel that the rear brakes were stopping the car pretty aggressively and sure enough after a few more miles my brake pedal fell through so I poured water on the drums and they started to let off lots of steam, even after like 10 bottles!
So I limped to my friends house at 12:00 AM and jacked my car for a look. Again the drums really didn't want to come off and once we did get them off my friends dad inspected them and could find anything wrong with my installation. The conclusion that we came to was that the auto adjustor for the shoes makes the shoes too tight and they rub. So I am thinking maybe this is cause for the fluid to overheat and boil, causing the pedal to fall through. The pedal fell has gotten much worse since I bled the system 3 days ago so that may be an indicator. Did a test this morning for 5 miles and the drums were just below lukewarm.
My 2001 Corolla gurgles when I step on the brakes. It seems to be getting louder and louder. This has been going on for 4 months or so..... I'm afraid somethings going to blow.....This happens when the car has been running for a while. I went to the garage, turned the car off and waited for 10 minutes to talk to the mechanic.Of course when I turned it on there was no noise when I stepped on the brake pedal...the mechanic wants me to bring it in this week. What this could be?
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