Toyota - Corolla :: 2007 - Change Trans Fluid?
Jul 31, 2011
I just changed my corolla trans fluid for the first time. the owners manual said a drain and fill take 3 quarts of T IV trans fluid. I purchased 3qts of T IV but more than 3 qts came out so I am about 8 to 12 oz. short. All of the toyota dealers are closed to day so I can not buy any until tomorrow. can I drive it this way for one day without hurting anything or should I put some of the old trans fluid back in?
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Car is 2000 Corolla 4-spd auto at 65k miles (bought used 3 years ago). Replace CV axles about 1.5 years ago.
When I backed out today, I saw a red fluid in the snow. Also, my trans fluid has been slowly declining (I've been adding more in).
Where is it likely to leak from? Is the only place the output shaft seals? Would the mechanic be able to spot it out easily?
I saw some posts where the entire gearbox had to be removed (but i think that was for a manual trans)..I hope that doesn't apply to autos.
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I recentily bought a 05 prius with 153k on the speedo I asked the dealer about if fluid should be changed out, they said they have never done one, what should I do and if I do it how?
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What is the interval when trans fluid gets changed? I need to take a trip....round trip will be about 4600 miles I probably have less than 1500 on the current fluid now.. and before that had changed it 2 other times within 1000 about 8 mo. apart just to rotate the fluid. I am planning to do it as soon as i get back.
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Doing trans fluid change on the 2009 -2012? Is it the same as myCD4E drain 4 refill? I know its a different fluid probably buy from Ford.
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In the "Old days" I could pull the one-and-only coil wire and trigger the starter motor to rotate the converter so the plug was at the bottom. How do ya do this with COP engines so the engine does not start?
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The trans fluid appears to need to be changed. I do not know if it has been changed in the past as this 2001 F150 with a V6 truck is new to me and has 88K miles. I am wanting to drain the torque converter as well as drop the pan and change the filter. I am willing to take the risk of having to rebuild the transmission if the flush junks it up.
Three Questions:
1. Is there any issue with mixing the synthetic with ATF fluid as there would still be ATF in the cooler and other places unless I take it someplace and have it mechanically flushed?
2. Is there a way to determine if my 4R70W trans has a drain plug in the torque converter with out getting under there, looking thru the inspection port while some one is clicking the starter?
3. Is there any reason not to put a drain plug in the pan while it is uninstalled?
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I had a small leak on the side cover of my trans so I decided to replace the gasket and take the opportunity to drop the pan and change the fluid and filter. However now I seem to have a pretty significant leak from the trans pan itself. The side cover seems ok.
The filter and gasket kit I purchased was a Wix brand. I don't have a torque wrench, so I just tightened to Germain torque spec (gutentight). However now I worry that maybe it's not the right spec, either too tight or too loose. The kit came with new spacers for the gasket and I cleaned the pan, especially around the lip where it interfaces with the rubber.
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Is it necessary to change the transition fluid every 60,000 miles?
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I'm trying to change my trans fluid on my 2010 Toyota Prius I, but I go under there and look, and there's NO drain plug and NO filler plug! It's just completely solid, with a black electrical thing on the front (looks like an electric pump or sensor of some kind). I've watched videos, read articles, read manuals! I would just hate to have to take it in to the same dealer who's telling me "it's good way past 100k miles..." .
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Raised car on jack stands. Totally level. Opened up the check cap, the one with the allen key.
5.5 cups of black fluid came out (car only has 25K miles on it).
After it finished draining from the check plug, I opened the drain plug. 4.5 cups came out.
Total of 10 cups. So it appears the trans had a little more than .5 qts too much. The shocker though is that the check plug let more than half of that drain out, so it appears tube inside the pan is defective and I'm going to have to make sure to put just the specified amount of fluid back in and hope for the best.
I'm wondering if I should just put back exactly the amount that came out which would be 2.5 qts rather than the specified 1.9 qts.
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At least that's when I notice it,... right in that range, seems the car hesitates and then starts up again and hesitates,... and you can see the tachometer go up to around 2 k and then down to 1600 rpm,.. but I am not accelerating with the gas peddle. Thoughts on what is causing this..
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I am going to change the coolant in my 2009 corolla 1.8L. The service manual instructions tell me to open the "cylinder block drain cock plug" and I can't find it. The picture in the manual is not very clear, but it points to a spot on the engine just above the throttle body.
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I have a 2007 3ld with 195 000 miles so about 300 000 km - I think it may be beneficial to change the transmission fluid as I have no plans to change the car.
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Had the oil changed today; before doing so, I saw that the check engine light had come on. Have been told by 3 professional car maintenance people that there is no connection between needing oil / oil change and check engine, that it would have been the check maintenance light.
Will take it in for diagnostic test by dealer. Also, was told by the oil change guy that he heard pinging which could mean that the car needs to have the valves adjusted, and that the check engine light is due to needing something or other with the gas tank filter which could have a leak/crack, etc.
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I have had a problem with my car idle hunting for about the past year. Last week my car threw a code and my code checker said that all 4 cylinders were misfiring. So I am still under warranty and took the car to the dealer. They said the intake manifold was leaking.
Two questions come to mind: Has to engine suffered any damage from leaking for over a year? and Do they automatically change the oil when changing out the intake manifold/gasket?
I did have an oil analysis last year (5/11) through Blackstone Labs and no antifreeze was present in the oil but the silicates were mildly high. Car is a 2005 toyota corolla with 102,xxx miles. The dealer also did the head gasket and a couple other engine gaskets 1 year ago.
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My windshield washer tank is leaking, need instructions on how I can fix it myself? Does the phone bumper have to come off, or is there a simple way to remove/replace it?
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I just found out there is no dip stick/fill tube for my 07 Expedition 6spd 6R. How to refill after service without using a flush machine. I also can't find any spec sheet on how much to refill or how to tell when it's full.
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So I have a Toyota Corolla 2004, and 117000 miles. Just this Saturday (2 days past) I got an oil change and a tire rotation (at a Valvoline drive through service station). This morning, once I was going 50-60 miles an hour on the highway, the steering wheel began to shake (left and right, fast). The vibrations come in waves, where maintaining a constant speed, it will shake, then the shaking will smooth out, and then it will start to shake again, in ~30 second cycles.
I'm assuming that this problem has something to do with my tire rotation, since it's the first one I did in recent memory, (Thought they do this as part of where I got my care inspected?) .. What should I do?
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I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla, mileage app. 106,000. Check engine light first came on when driving to destination 40+ miles away (most of my driving is shorter, around-town trips). My mechanic said code is P0420 and so they reset it and said if it comes on again that I need a new cat converter. It did not come on until about 6 weeks later when I was on a longer trip again (had driven about 40-50 miles). Can you tell me if the P0420 code absolutely means that a new cat. conv. is needed or if it could possibly be a sensor or something else hopefully less costly than a new cc?
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I've recently bought a 2002 toyota corolla wagon. I noticed the transmission fluid of the automatic gearbox has been overfilled. This measurement was with a cold and switched off engine and on a level ground. Is this something I should be concerned about and can it cause damage? Should I have it drained to the normal level or is it ok to keep it this way? I didn't come with a manual so I'm not sure if i measured correctly.
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