Toyota - Corolla :: 2004 - Steering Wheel Violently Shakes Occasionally
Aug 29, 2011
I occasionally experience steering wheel vibration no matter what speed I'm traveling. It starts out as a small shake and eventually becomes nearly impossible to hold onto the steering wheel. On two separate occasions, the brakes have gone out.The car has passed PA state safety inspection and I have taken it to 3 different mechanics and no one can figure out what the problem is. I have had new tires and spark plugs installed, keep up with regular oil changes, etc.
2004 Toyota Corolla S, 4 cylinders, 1.81 l engine, 240,000 miles, manual transmission..
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My steering wheel vibrates when I stop or when i turn on the AC...
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I have a 2000 Corolla CE with 48k miles that I bought 2 months ago. I took it in for an alignment and balance because it was pulling to one side and the steering shakes slightly at 70mph.
The before measurements was this:Left Front:Camber: 0.0Caster: 1.2Toe: 0.17
Right Front:Camber: -0.7Caster: 1.6Toe: 0.28
Front Total Toe: 0.45Steer Ahead: -0.06
Rear Left:Camber: -1.0Toe: 0.50
Rear Right:Camber -0.7Toe:-0.04
Rear Tota
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My 2004 Acura TL with 6 speed manual transmission has an issue. When the RPMs go between 1200 and 2000 the car shakes violently as if the engine isn't attached or is trying to get away. At idle it's silky smooth and after 2000 RPM it feels fine too. The gear I'm in doesn't matter and this shaking happens whether I'm standing still or driving... it just happens in the 1200-2000 RPM range. Again, this is not a small amount of vibration, I'm talking about seriously shaking the whole car.
This is what I've done so far:
1. Replaced the three engine mounts two days ago, and double checked the transmission mounts and they seem fine. At the same time my mechanic discovered a few bolts on the subframe that were loose, and we tightened those.
2. Replaced O2 sensor that was causing check engine light and it's fine now.
3. Timing belt, clutch and power steering was done by previous owner maybe 3-4 months ago.
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I have a 2000 Corolla CE with 48k miles. When braking hard, the pedal vibrates and the brake performance was not that good. So I had the mechanic replace the front calipers (L&R), both brake pads on front, and rear drums.
After that, when braking, the pedal vibrates...but not that much. So I had the mechanic replace the front rotors (L&R). Now, when braking, the performance is good and it does not vibrate.
However, if I brake really hard...there is a little bit of pedal vibration AND shaking steering wheel. My car also needs an alignment since it pulls to the left (will get one on Friday).
Do you think the shaking steering wheel and the slight pedal vibration is due to the alignment or maybe the rear rotors need to be replaced? When traveling at 70mpg, sometimes the steering wheel slightly (very slightly) shakes....my guess this the tires need to be balance/alignment.
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I have a 98 Toyota corolla and every time I am moving and then I step on the brakes, the steering wheel starts to vibrate. I have changed the rotors, the break pads, the calipers and even changed the brake master cylinder...but still vibrates when I step on the brake pedal and I have done wheel alignment and balancing...
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My 75 Corolla wagon (2T-C 4 speed, rear wheel drive) has developed a terrible shimmy that can be felt in the steering wheel and shifter, as well as the whole car. It only does this when I am in 3rd or 4th gear doing between 35-45 mph. Over the past few months this has gotten worse, and instead of being an intermittent thing (once a week or so) it happens every time I am in the 35-45 mph range.
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So I have a Toyota Corolla 2004, and 117000 miles. Just this Saturday (2 days past) I got an oil change and a tire rotation (at a Valvoline drive through service station). This morning, once I was going 50-60 miles an hour on the highway, the steering wheel began to shake (left and right, fast). The vibrations come in waves, where maintaining a constant speed, it will shake, then the shaking will smooth out, and then it will start to shake again, in ~30 second cycles.
I'm assuming that this problem has something to do with my tire rotation, since it's the first one I did in recent memory, (Thought they do this as part of where I got my care inspected?) .. What should I do?
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My car is a 2000 corolla with 51k miles that I bought a couple of months ago.
It had the following problems:
Creaking noise from front drivers side when going over bumps
Steering wheel vibration when braking
Steering wheel vibration (slightly) at certain speeds
Very out of alignment
In august, I replaced the rotors, did a tire balance and alignment. The shop used a Hunter RoadForce balancer. They said that the front tires were bad so they put them in the rear.
After that, the steering wheel still vibrated slightly at certain speeds. Also, the front end would vibrate when the steering wheel vibrated. Also, when braking hard...the steering wheel would vibrate even though the rotors and pads were replaced.
Yesterday, I replaced the front struts/spring/mount...yet the drivers front still creaked over bumps. The strut change also caused the alignment to pull slightly to the left (only very slightly).
Today, I replaced the rear struts/spring/mount, both front ball joints, both front sway bar links.
This fixed ALL of the problems. The steering wheel is now perfect (even when braking), the creaking noise is completely gone. And best of all, the alignment seems to be correct as it no longer pulls from yesterday's front strut change.
Do I really need to replace the tires or even get an alignment? The alignment might be slightly out of spec but it does not pull to any side.
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Looking at a 2011 Toyota corolla, noticed that it has a new steering wheel with a flat bottom. Was just wondering what the flat bottom does? is it just for looks or does it have a purpose?
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Years and years ago, I had an issue with my trusty '02. The steering wheel would shake VIOLENTLY back and forth. I went round and round with Toyota, but at the end of all the angry phone calls and emails the issue never got fixed, but they paid for an after market steering rack. I wasn't about to pay the 4-5K to get the issue fixed, so I just pulled the PS relay, and have been driving merrily along with no power steering for about 90K miles. I'm now at about 195K.
About a month ago, I noticed some symptoms.
1) some play in the steering.
2) when I went over some bumps, I could really feel the bounce, and it felt like metal bumping into metal.
3) when I punched the accelerator, there was a delay and a "thunk" feeling.
I was coming up on a major servicing, so I took it in to the dealership. They sorted out a few things that I knew were overdue (wheel bearings, battery coolant, transaxle lube), and came to the decision that the steering problem was that I needed a new rack. I told the gobsmacked mechanic that I just happened to have one, and they put it in, and they recalibrated the steering sensor paddles so that I would again have power steering. When I started the car up in the dealership lot, VIOLENT SHAKING. They took it back in, and declared that was because my ignition battery was marginal (which it was), and that a new battery would sort this out. I thus spent far too much money on a new battery. Two days later, wheel starts shaking, and again I pull the relay. All is normal again.
The questions are these:
1) Can that kind of shaking be repaired?
2) Could it really have been a battery issue? (the battery reads a nice even 12.6 and has a wonderful warranty)
3) Was my issue just tie rods the whole time?
In the meantime, I'm going to get 238K (distance from earth to moon) if it kills us all.
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I have a 2004 F150 SCrew 4x4 with the 4.6 (260K)... My steering wheel occasionally 'clicks' when turning - It sounds and feels like a bearing is bad in the steering column.
When it happens, it feels like one in the bearing is binding- the steering wheel slightly binds, then there's a 'pop' like the ball snapped back into place. This only happens occasionally. Sometimes it will pop with every revolution of the steering wheel, other times not at all.
Originally, I thought it was a U-joint, but it seems like the noise is coming from the bottom of the column...
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2000 Corolla - "growling" noise on the passenger side of the engine / stops when I turn the steering wheel - no loss of PS fluid (I also flushed the system) - which bearing(s) might be bad...?
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So I have come into ownership of a 2003 Prius and now I'm having issues with the power steering. I contacted Toyota and they told me the recal for the pinions was completed in 2012. Now own in the car I've noticed the steering wheel will start to violently shake and just last week while driving I got the warning triangle and the PS symbol and I lost all power steering. All this happened while driving on a highway. Toyota wanted to charge me 150 to diagnose the problem which I declined and took it to my well trusted mechanic. He told me the rac needs to replace. I've done a lot of research on this problem and have found many people complaining that even after having the recall done, they still had a problem and also were told the rac needs to be replaced.
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5 speed stick shift, first thing in the morning no problem, after driving a while it shakes in reverse and does not want to move, going forward is no problem, clutch and cv joints were replaced 4 years ago, 170k miles.
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The car is a manual transmission 2005 Toyota Corolla with around 90,000 miles. I'm not the only owner. The car was bought used. It appears that the car was in a front end accident that doesn't appear in a carfax report. This can be identified by the poor clearcoat paint job on the hood flaking off and the absence of the air conditioner, as well as some rather pathetic body, work with noticeable bends and a few missing screws. Most of which I consider cosmetic and irrelivant to the car's operations.
The tires are bald and the car has had an alignment about 2 years ago after I replaced the struts. I wasn't notified of any bad ball joints, but that doesn't mean thats out of the question. The car has a bit of a shake at high speeds. Sometimes the shaking is violent enough to reduce speed. I noticed that more often the shake is really bad above 60 and quite scary above 70. This isn't always the case. Sometimes the shake isn't as noticable by comparison.
At low speeds the car seems to have a wobble or repeatative hop. The steering wheel has a rythmic pattern moving back and forth a few degrees. Enough to make holding a full cup or soda not a safe choice unless the desire is to wear the drink. The wobble appears to be a little worse when the car is cold. Winter mornings seem to bring out the worst in the wobble.
I would like to do as much work on my own as possible to save $, but I realize I may need professional service equipment to diagnose some of this. Can car tires be diagnosed for having bulges with some sort of test aside from visual inspection alone? Is there a tool that can be used to verify the metal of the wheel is true and not the source of the wobble? Do wobbles and shakes derive from bad tie rods and/or ball joints? What is the most common problem that produces symptoms similar to mine?
I enjoy the car's money saving potential, but it lacks an air conditioner which is vital for defrost operations and keeping the insane summer heat tolerable. If the repairs will cost me more than the car is worth I may choose to invest that money into a 2005 model as a replacement since I've grown tired of the lack of radio and no air conditioner. I'm trying to keep 5ish years behind the curve as not to waste money on the politics of new car value depreciation.
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when Im going down a hill or when I hit a certain speed my steering wheel shakes and I don't mean a small shake I mean my arms are grabbing the steering wheel to keep control and they are violently shaking with the wheel. Now in the begining I heard that if alot of snow got packed into your tires the wheels would shake but theres no snow I check everyday before I leave and if there is I get it out. So then I think maybe it could be my tires aren't balance right but no less then 2 and 1/2 months I got new snow tires put on in a shop so they SHOULD'VE balanced them right? so that can't be the problem so then I thought alingnment! but the thing with that is if I let go of the wheel when I'm going under 50-60 miles an hour and it stays pretty damn straight then it can't be that either..
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I drive a 2003 Honda Accord and it shakes violently whenever I'm accelerating between 55 and 65 mph. If you put a shaker on the passenger seat, you'd have a martini. Approaching 55, it's fine, and then it shakes as I go up to 65 and then smooths out when I pass 65. If I am cruising, but not accelerating in between 55 and 65, it stops shaking, but once I hit the gas, it shakes.
The same phenomenon occurs in both third and fourth gears, so it doesn't appear to be related to what part of the power band the car is in. This model Accord had a recall on the engine mounts, which I had replaced at no small cost already.
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I recently bought an 87 Toyota corolla fx 16 as I totaled out my other car hitting a deer when I test drove this car I had no issues on this car it had high miles at 197k but it seemed to purr like a kitten it wasn't until I started to drive it back and forth to work that I noticed the issue when the car is cold it runs and idles fine a little bit of shift hesitation but figured that might be a dirty transmission filter as the fluid appeared discolored however when the car warms up it shifts fine and begins to cut out and the Rpms dip under 1k every 20-30 seconds.
It becomes worse when the car is in gear driving down the road it randomly cuts out and seems to lose power while occasionally backfiring and if I come to a stop and leave it in gear it will die if I don't feather the throttle just right on takeoff or press it to the floor when I press it to the floor it's slow on take off and sounds like a mix of backfiring and missing and then suddenly takes off like a bat out of hell once I hit about 20 mph. When it dies the check engine light comes on but as soon as I start it it goes back off. I've already changed a bunch of the routine stuff since the car sat for a year such as fuel filter, air filter, plugs, wires, coil, rotor, valve cover gaskets, and replaced nearly all the vacuum lines trying to figure it out thinking its something simple.
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I have 2009 Honda Accord with approximately 66,000 miles (I drive 70 miles r/t to work every day). I had service done on my car the other day to get the front brake rotors replaced and four new tires. Upon receiving my car and driving to Boston the car began to shake at highway speeds (50+). I took it back to the mechanic and they re-balanced the tires. I drove to work the next day and the car still shakes (albeit now at 60+). Today the mechanic rotated the tires in case there was a bent rim in the front causing this. However, on my drive today the car still shakes (though it's not as violent or noticeable as the trip to Boston).
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I remember the days when we experienced flat spots on our tires. I have been told by several dealers that it no longer occurs. well then there is something else wrong then. Starting the day for about 15 miles the front end shakes-sometimes violently. after 15 miles or so then things are ok. the dealer cannot reproduce the problem. he is 25 miles away.. i have 30 thousand miles on the tires-they are original..need an answer-really don't weant to buy new tires..my car is a 2012 Hyundai santé fe
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