Toyota - Corolla :: 2004 - Shifter Hard To Move From P
Feb 2, 2012
Corolla '04: I have to press the brake pedal extremely hard to get the shifter to move out of the Park position.
View 5 RepliesCorolla '04: I have to press the brake pedal extremely hard to get the shifter to move out of the Park position.
View 5 RepliesI've got a 1.8T 2004 automatic and the problem I'm having is the shifter is harder to move since the weather's been colder. It shifts very well and is responsive, it's just that I have to pull it harder to select P, R, N and D. D is especially hard (no pun intended you sick minds! ) to select, the shifter kind of stays in neutral but shifts after a bit. Is there anything I can do to fix this?
Side question: is the rear defrost supposed to turn off after a certain period of time? My 2002 golf does it but the jetta doesn't.
So after owning my R for just over a week I've noticed that when I accelerate hard or let off the throttle the shifter seems to move quite a bit. Is this normal with the stock mounts or is it something I should have looked at? I know the stock mounts are rubber to aid in isolating the vibration of the engine but it seems like the shifter moves a little more than I would expect.
View 1 RepliesGot in to go to work this am, and the gear shifter was difficult to move. What to check?
I drove 70 miles to work and didn't seem like any issues with the transmission shifting.
Got in to go to lunch and it seems even more difficult to move...
Shifting back and forth in the selector seems to loosen things up a little.
A friend move the selector while I looked at the linkage and the bracket that support the cable is flexing while shifting between gears....More likely a transmission issue or something with the linkage?
This morning as I get in to drive my kid to school (2005 2.7 2 wd auto) as I go to put it in reverse I noticeably have to pull it with some force. I have never had to "force it" before, it had always switched gears with ease. This time it felt very stiff but had no issues going into gear. After I dropped my son off at school I went through the gears up and down and it felt very stiff (at this point i have no issues with starting it or P).
At lunch I go out to get something to eat and when I go to start it up it won't start. I try and try and nothing. All the lights came on, it's not a battery issue at all (brand new). But after 10 tries it starts, so I'm pretty happy. Then I go to put it in gear (reverse) I can not press in the button on the side of the gear shift. It will not go in. I press with all my might and it wont budge. But again, after about 10 good tries at it goes in and I can then select my gear but still feels very stiff.
After stopping again I didn't shut off the engine and dicked around with the shifter basically figured out that my car is not recognizing Park. On the instrument panel each gear lights up but not P. It gets very stiff when trying to put it in P but it doesn't actually go into P. If I put it in P (or really the further up it will go) and shut off the car, it won't start again. I can start it up in N and only N.
My cousin has a 2007 Ford Taurus with the pushrod 3.0L. It has the console shifter and it is hard to move the shift lever into Park from Reverse. The shifer moves out of park and to every other gear with normal effort. The gear indicator correctly displays the shifter position. It drives/shifts perfectly fine. The only problem is that it is hard to move the shifter from Reverse into Park. It feels like there is a rubbery, or somewhat mushy threshold/resistance that needs to be overcome with a moderate amount of effort to get the shifter into park. Once the shifter is in Park it feels normal meaning you don't have to hold or force the shifter to stay in park.
It is frustrating because it seems most other people have a problem with the shfiter being hard to move from Park to Reverse or Neutral, but she is having the opposite issue. Will it hurt the car to keep shoving the shifter into park when necessary without getting it fixed?
My 75 Corolla wagon (2T-C 4 speed, rear wheel drive) has developed a terrible shimmy that can be felt in the steering wheel and shifter, as well as the whole car. It only does this when I am in 3rd or 4th gear doing between 35-45 mph. Over the past few months this has gotten worse, and instead of being an intermittent thing (once a week or so) it happens every time I am in the 35-45 mph range.
View 8 RepliesMy 2004 expedition wont go into any gear the shifter will not move I changed the stop light brake switch and a 30 amp buss fuse I found blown and also the check engine light is on now too this was after I parked it I also changed a 30 amp buss fuse I found blown out but it still don't work the only way I can get it into gear is to push the little button under steering wheel...
View 2 Replies5 speed stick shift, first thing in the morning no problem, after driving a while it shakes in reverse and does not want to move, going forward is no problem, clutch and cv joints were replaced 4 years ago, 170k miles.
View 6 RepliesFiguring out automatic shifter problem, the car only has 56k miles & it has problem (since 30k miles) shifting out of Park or stuck in Park, often I had to use the mechanical override to release it so I can put it in Neutral to start the engine. When placed in Drive, it kind of "floats," does not have the normal confident in-the-gear feel & sometimes it slips out of Drive to Neutral with the slightest bump of the gear shifter when driving or when stopped. When I shift, it does not have a free easy movement, it feels like the cable is restricted by corrosion or dirt, but everything looked good & seem shielded. Took it to a shop & they suggested that I just drive it... I've since put over 20k miles & its getting worse at finding Neutral to start the car with.
View 2 RepliesI'm having trouble with my 2004 Ford F-150 5.4 Triton V8 starting, when i try to start it i have to move the shifter all the way down and up multiple times with the key open in order to start the truck. I don't what it is I think it may be the Neutral Safety Switch or Shifter cable.
View 3 RepliesOur 98 Corolla has recently become hard to start. Usually two or three starting attempts for a few seconds before starts and then idles roughly for a few seconds, then drives fine like it always has. Has 51k miles, oil changed regularly, 100k-mile tuneup/spark plug replacement not yet reached (maybe another 18 years, in 2034? Anyway, has performed great always until recently no longer starts immediately. Replaced battery, no change. Have BlueTooth OBD scan tool connects to Android phone - cool display, no codes, what to check, do next?
View 18 RepliesMy wife's '01 Corolla is having trouble starting. It doesn't turn over. At first I thought it might be the alternator, but when I prime it by pushing the gas, it starts right up. I'm thinking fuel pump or fuel line. It was also having some catalytic converter / 02 sensor issues, so wondering if that could be it too.
View 10 RepliesMy '96 Toyota Corolla has difficulty going beyond 45 mph on the freeway, especially when the temperature gets down to zero. Normally the car shifts into 3rd gear at 45 mph. Instead it has excessive engine noise. I just keep my foot on the gas, and it goes past 50 mph, but with considerable effort. It sounds like I have the car in 2nd gear when driving at 50 mph. Eventually it "lets go" and shifts to 3rd. There is no CEL on, fuel filter replaced, transmission flushed, spark plugs checked last fall. From other issues I've read, I'm guessing it might be a bad thermostat? The car heats fine. Gas mileage is more than normal. No gas smells when I park. Once the engine warms up, I have no problems with the gears shifting. I had this problem a few years ago. Don't know what my mechanic did to fix it. My budget is pretty tight right now, so if I can fix it myself, I'd really like to do so.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2005 Toyota corolla with a little over 200,000 miles on it. My car was struggling to start (but would start after several seconds of turning the key. I figured it needed a new battery because the other battery was old. I had the battery replaced and they cleaned the terminals because they told me they were corroded. With the new battery though, the car is still struggling to start. What could be the issue?
View 9 RepliesMy 94 Toyota Corolla has about 190,000 miles on it and lately it has had a hard time shifting between 20-30mph. It finally does reach it and does not have trouble shifting at any other speeds. This only happens in the heat of the afternoon (Never have this problem in the morning). Also, my O/D light has been flashing when this happens, or at least around the time it happens. Could these two problems be linked? I took it to my mechanic in the morning and he checked the transmission fluid and it seemed fine, he also had no problems driving around when he tested the car. He said my transmission is going and that I should make "long term" plans. Is there any hope?
View 1 RepliesAbout a month ago I went to get into my car and it would not start. It tried to but after testing things with my neighbor there didn't seem to be consistent spark. So I bought a new distributor. Got it installed and the car worked great. Then after about a week we had a heavy rain while I was driving. The car shut off and wouldn't start. After the rain was over for about an hour I went to look over the car and it started. I thought with the heavy rain something got wet. Then things really went down hill. A day or so later when I went to start the car it didn't want to start and when it did it would misfire. Later that day the car started fine but would only run right if the engine was warmed up.
I tried covering the car completely with a tarp, no change. My cousin who is a skilled mechanic said he was pretty sure that the issue was the new distributor. So I got a used one, not wanting to pay another large amount again. Put that in the car and no change. So I pulled the plugs on the car. Plugs 1 and 4 had a heavy carbon build up on the tips with pitting in the carbon. I had had them replaced, with the wires back in October. So I replaced the plugs and coated the wires in liquid electrical tape. Car started fine like it does in the afternoons. Nest day it was raining and I went to see what the car would do. It started! I drove it that day with no issue at all. The next day I went to start the car thinking my issues where over. The issue has returned. I changed out the plugs with new ones that night. Car started fine that night. Next day the car is still not wanting to start and misfires when it does. It has been damp but covering it doesn't change anything.
I bought a 2011 Toyota Corolla brand new and the last several winters in the snow the traction has been terrible. Even at very slow speeds, it is difficult to get the car going and keep it straight on snowy roads. I have a 2007 Corolla also that was bought new and never had these similar issues with that car. The current tires on the 2011 car are Bridgestone Insignia SE with about 20k miles on them. But even with less miles, traction has always been an issue.
View 19 RepliesLife long fan of Toyota cars. Drove all cars above 250 K miles. The only way I lost them is through minor accidents or just donated them. Just got a 2004 toyota Camry with 165 K miles( it may sound a lot for others , for me its just beginning) . The Shifter light is out. How to replace it.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 corolla ce with 51k miles I bought recently.
While going to work this morning, I had to hard brake from 50mph. The car slid several feet but came to a safe stop.
Now when I'm driving, my right wheel is clicking....like a light clicking noise. Could hard braking have damaged the wheel bearing or cv joint?
I have a 98 Toyota Corolla, manual transmission. When I come to a hard stop, or make a hard turn, the engine either stalls or almost stalls. I've had it serviced lately with new plugs and wires, oil change and fuel system cleaning. The engine idles fine when you start it and are just sitting there. The problem seems to come with stopping hard or turning while quickly slowing, when the clutch is engaged. If I am able to hit the gas I can keep it running and then it runs fine.
View 2 Replies