Toyota - Corolla :: 2004 - Loss Of Power / Dim Headlights And Radio Flickering
Mar 14, 2014
Recently purchased a 2004 Toyota Corolla in August. Last night coming home from a show (I'm a musician), the airbag light came on, my headlights seemed to be very dim.Eventually my car radio started to flicker and the mph and rxp meters as well as the odometer started to go up and back down and up while no juice from the gas peddle seemed to go to acceleration. Pulled over, car kinda sputtered like it was a dying battery. Turned it off. Waited tuned it back on and it tried to roll over but sounded like a dead battery again. The interior lights worked fine, all the of symbols (oil, battery engine) flashed but no ignition, radio or lighter charge .
After a long while tried again and it started with some coaxing, made it two more miles down the road and same thing happened, radio lights flicker, dim headlights, airbag light comes on, meters go crazy, lose acceleration. Waited a while, tried it, turned on, it turned on and we sat with it idling and same process happened while sitting there after just a short time. Dim headlights, Radio flicker, airbag light, meters crazy, slow lose of juice.
It has a brand new battery, it's a used car, I've been driving it with the check engine light on but have gotten it looked previously to disclose it was a sensor thing. Recently took it to the Toyota dealership for three recallsOne had to do with the airbags. After it was worked on the second time by them for two other recalls (one had to do with the door and I can't recall the other but am looking for the paper) my battery light came on. And has come off and on for about a week or two but with no trouble. Mostly in town driving. This trip I took was about at 40mi trip back and forth, it did fine up but coming home not so good. I'm not sure if it's any relation but that's the only "repairs" I've had done since purchasing the vehicle
Alternator? Bad battery? Electrical stuff?
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I've been experiencing power loss at random times while driving, idling, With almost always flickering headlights on my mkiv 1.8t gti. Also on what always seems like the exact same spot on the freeway I'm losing all power to the wheels and it feels as if my plugs aren't firing for about 10 seconds Which causes me to bog down. At which point I down shift and play the throttle until my motor then begins running normally again.
I've semi recently replaced my battery and terminals, due to corroded terminals and worn out battery. Is is possible a ecu reset could solve this problem?
Also when the power surges during driving my traction control and hand-brake lights on the tachometer will flash and the car will beep three or four times (same as when the hand-brake on beep).
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I have an '87 Toyota Corolla, automatic transmission, 4 door sedan with 80,000 miles on her. Recently have experienced a power and mpg loss. Top speed going uphill (30% grade) is 35. Recent repairs include replacing the timing belt, fuel/water pumps, flush cooling/transmission systems, and tune up to no avail!!! So what’s left? Could it be the catalytic converter? I do live in the mountains at 9,000 ft.
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I have a 2005 Corolla LE 5-speed with 101,xxx. I have owned it a year and last fall noticed that when it got cold and first started it up the car would idle hunt. While getting some warranty work done I brought it up to the dealership and they said the throttle body was dirty and they would clean it for 100. I found a local garage that will clean it for fifty. I think my new problem may be related.
I have noticed during the past week or so when I am in 3rd and 4th, haven't noticed in 5th yet, gear when I get around 3,000rpm and I punch it just a little bit lets say to pass someone I initially lose power before the car goes. It feels almost like an automatic that has a transmission slipping but it's a stick and it does not occur while changing gears. It is very brief. I lean into the pedal a bit and then the car loses power just a bit and then peps up and goes.
I am wondering if this may be related to the throttle positioning sensor having crud on it. There is also no check engine light on.
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Ok I got a 1995 toyota corolla 1.8l dx .... So this is my back up car I went out started it up let it set and warm up and took it around the yard to run it a little well it ran fine then all of a sudden it lost all it's power well I finaly got it back to the drive that was only 50ft away took almost 30mins just to get it there. I cut it off let it sit started it back up and still no power well now it won't even start it has new plugs.. Wires.. Cap button.
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I recently bought an 87 Toyota corolla fx 16 as I totaled out my other car hitting a deer when I test drove this car I had no issues on this car it had high miles at 197k but it seemed to purr like a kitten it wasn't until I started to drive it back and forth to work that I noticed the issue when the car is cold it runs and idles fine a little bit of shift hesitation but figured that might be a dirty transmission filter as the fluid appeared discolored however when the car warms up it shifts fine and begins to cut out and the Rpms dip under 1k every 20-30 seconds.
It becomes worse when the car is in gear driving down the road it randomly cuts out and seems to lose power while occasionally backfiring and if I come to a stop and leave it in gear it will die if I don't feather the throttle just right on takeoff or press it to the floor when I press it to the floor it's slow on take off and sounds like a mix of backfiring and missing and then suddenly takes off like a bat out of hell once I hit about 20 mph. When it dies the check engine light comes on but as soon as I start it it goes back off. I've already changed a bunch of the routine stuff since the car sat for a year such as fuel filter, air filter, plugs, wires, coil, rotor, valve cover gaskets, and replaced nearly all the vacuum lines trying to figure it out thinking its something simple.
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I have an 05 corolla XRS. I just had a sport clutch put in about 1 year ago. Whenever I shift into 4th gear and accelerate, the RPMs drop about 500 and I lose power for about 3 seconds before it starts going back up. Other gears are acting normal. Best part is that I let my friend drive the car earlier and since he did it's been doing this.
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Having problem with 2010 Toyota Corolla. Engine light comes on as well as VSC and traction control but the engine does not shut off. I loose power and engine runs really rough. I have to pull over and unplug my battery cable and the problem is gone until a week or two later same thing happens. My gas mileage is about 10 km for every 100KM city and Highway mix. The engine idle is also rough and sometimes when I try to do a U turn or get in and out of parking the engine shuts off.
Engine scanned shows P0010 and it could be three or for causes? My problem is that mechanics change one thing which costs an arm and a leg then if that did not fix the problem they say now lets change another part? I can not afford to fix them one by one and get charged for it as they replace one part at a time.
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I went to go fuel up my '04 Toyota and when I turned the car back on, the radio and lighter (and the heat at first - it's working now...) were dead. What this could mean?
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Just this evening I turned off my car (2000 Toyota Corolla), went inside and then came back out an hour or so later to discover that my radio, clock, and cigarette lighter still had power. Without the key in the ignition, I'm still able to listen to the radio, for example. This was never the case before. I had the battery replaced five days ago, but I doubt that makes a difference.... How I can fix this so that my battery doesn't drain.
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I just recently had the hybrid battery replaced in the my 06 Prius. Probably about 2 years ago I had my right headlight replaced because it kept going out. Well now my headlight is back to going out again. However no it's no longer just the right headlight. It can be either. It doesn't seem to matter if it's smooth road or bumpy. Seems to do it alittle worse on really cold days but it's also done it on a couple 40 degree days we had recently.
The left headlight has a habit of flickering alot. Some times it'll stop and stay on, other time's it'll flicker and then go out. When the right headlight goes out, it doesn't flicker, it just goes out. If I turn the lights off and right back on, both headlights come on. They may stay on rest of way to work after that or they may stay on 5 minutes. It is something I can check via navigation console? Is my only option to take it to a Toyota dealer?
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My friend has a 2008 Elantra, and she had me jump start the car the other day. The car jump started just fine, but then when it was idling, the headlights would flicker, as if there was an uneven of inadequate power supply. Then, when driving the car, turning the wheel and taxing the power steering would cause the headlights to almost turn off momentarily. After driving for 30 or more minutes, the car did not improve at all. I turned the car off, then went to start it, and immediately it was too dead to turn over again. I'm lost with the electrical, I don't think its the alternator.
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I will start out with a little history of the situation. A little over three months ago my original altenator died with over 200,000 miles on it. I took it in and had it replaced (they used a refurbished altenator) and about a 1-1/2 months later is when the issue started. The headlights and dash lights will flicker and whenever they dim, the volt gauge will go down.
When the lights come back to normal brightness the volt guage will also go back to normal. All this will go on for random lengths of time as I am driving. I took the vehicle back to where I had the altenator replaced and they replaced it again under warranty. About another 1-1/2 months went by and the same thing started happening. I took it back to the same garage and this time they put in a brand new altenator. Finally about a week after this last visit to the garage the symptoms came back.
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When I accelerate to merge onto the highway or pass my battery light blinks as well as my headlight flickering and a slight loss in power. My car has 140k miles on it, original battery which seems to test fine on my charger. I just change the spark plugs.
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Ford Focus 2004 manual 150K miles. Most days the car runs fine. Other days it will start and run until it warms up, then stumbles or hesitates at speed. When this happens the headlights and dash lights are also flickering. Sometimes i hear a clicking sound behind dash, left side. I have the sure cure: turn the heater fan to high. This works every time. When the engine is hesitating, i turn the fan to 4-high, the engine smooths out. Turn the fan down, engine again hesitates. Hesitates at 3, worse at 2, worst at 1. It seems to need the extra load.
But after few minutes of high heater fan, the alternator light comes on. I flick the heater switch down, endure the hesitation for a few seconds, the alternator light goes out, engine still hesitating, flick the fan to high, engine smooths out. A few months ago i could get it to fun smoothly with the fan on 3, didn't need 4-high. Now seems to need 4.On the days when it is always running smoothly, the heater fan can be on any speed, the alternator light does not come on.
Next few days or even weeks the engine will run smoothly, no hesitation, with the fan on or off or any setting.
The car has been to three shops in past year, one of them a major Ford dealer, who kept it two weeks. The problem has been diagnosed as battery (replaced), Battery connections (checked), plugs (replaced), fuel pump controller (replaced), fuel pump (replaced - ouch!), alternator (replaced twice - ouch twice), grounds (checked). Every time they "fix" something the car runs ok for a week or so.OBD shows P2004 (intake manifold runner stuck) but all agree it can't be the problem.
There have been a few times when i flicked the heater fan to high that all the dash lights died, fan went off, headlights off, turn signals didnt' work, but the engine ran smoothly. Not so good on the highway at night!There have been a few time, not recently, when the car wouldn't start. No dome lights, no dash lights with key turned to ON, no clicking or starter with key turned to START. It acted as if my battery was missing. The cure was to turn the headlights on. All normal after that.
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We are original owners of a 2004 Prius with 165K miles. We've taken excellent care of what has been a great family car. A couple of months ago, we got a check engine light associated with a catalytic converter error. We first replaced the oxygen sensor, which temporarily eliminated the error light, but the car really loses power, especially when a load is placed on it going up hill. The power loss is associated with a fluttering noise coming from within the engine and the battery display showing that it is not charging sufficiently.
We took it back to the dealer and they replaced the exhaust manifold gasket and suggested we replace the catalytic converter (> $2000) but also recommended a local exhaust specialist who could replace the catalytic converter for much less. The exhaust shop examined the car and told us the catalytic converter was fine and did not need replacement. There are no more error codes, and the dealership and their service department shows no interest in repairing our car.
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ok so the other day my radio suddenly cut out. the speakers are very quite and i can only pick up static. I need to know if i have to replace the antenna, radio, or both?
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My wife's 2009 Toyota Corolla is possessed and it's gotten her so frustrated she brought home a new puppy two days ago.
Over the last two weeks we've noticed a handful of times, after we've turned off the car and left it (with the interior headlight control in the off position) that we'd go out to the garage only to find the car's headlights on. (Keep in mind, it has a sensor that will automatically activate the headlights in dim light but this only is supposed to happen when the car is on.) It began having issues starting and yesterday it wouldn't turn over. Yet, when turning the ignition, it made a sound different than I've heard on the car when it has a dying/dead battery. Before calling the tow truck, I tried jumping it. The car did turn over -- and the headlights immediately came on (might have been the sensor in the dark garage, but they come on almost immediately rather than after a brief delay). Yet it died quickly after and wouldn't start again. My neighbor, however, smelled gas and suggested the engine might be flooded.
The car was towed to my mechanic -- who's a good guy. He just called and said the car turned on for him without a problem and he can't find anything despite running a battery of tests. He said he just doesn't want to swap stuff out without knowing there's an issue.
So, what could possibly be causing the car's headlights to go on when the car is completely turned off and the internal knob for the headlights is also in the off position? And could it be related to the car not turning over -- or did my wife flood the car when she tried to turn it over yesterday morning, creating a wholly separate issue?
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So I took my 2005 Corolla this morning to get it detailed at a Eco Detailing place. They use steam instead of water. When I picked it up it looked good and I left. On the way home I went to turn on the radio and nada. No lights, no sound. The rest of my dashboard was working fine. So I called the place and told the main dude what happened. He said this happens sometime when the doors of the car are left open for three - four hours. He said give it a couple of days and the radio would reset. I'm pretty doubtful. I have all the windows down in the car to dry out any left over humidity.
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All of a sudden my radio and clock stopped working, k-checked fuses 20A, seem fine- two days later, the door chimes stopped working, and then the lights are one-chimes stopped, then the key in the ignition, and when the door is ajar, stopped dinging---is this a computer malfunction or sensor-WHICH ONE? 1997 toyota corolla........
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Yesterday, I went to charge a friend's GPS in my 2008 Toyota Corolla. I discovered that a dime was stuck in the charging port (but why, by the way). I had to use a pen to carefully get the dime out, but in the process, I shorted out the car radio/CD player, clock, and the charging port. Everything else electrical works. How can I fix this problem?
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