I have a Toyota Corolla 2003. I need to replace the expansion valve and the evaporator of the AC. I have been told I have to remove the whole dash to do that. Is that true? and if so, where I can find a video or a step by step guide in how to do that?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Toyota Corolla with a leaking timing chain tensioner. I was able to locate a procedure for replacing the tensioner but it didn't say whether the no. 1 cylinder had to be @ TDC or not. What is the proper procedure for this repair?
View 1 RepliesI am looking at replacing my A/C compressor but in order to keep the warranty on the new compressor it states that I have to replace the expansion valve (and desiccant). My current compressor hasn't eaten itself yet so I am fairly confident that the expansion valve is still good. However, being a $30 part, I have no problem replacing it if it is fairly easy to access. According to the maintenance manual it is not as it instructs to literally rip apart the whole dash. I just wanted to know if any way to access it without doing all of that work?
View 4 RepliesI replaced the PCV valve (with OEM). The old one looked dirty, but still rattled when I shake it. However, now with the engine at idle, I can hear a metallic clicking coming from the area of the new PCV valve. It's difficult to verify, because it's behind the intake manifold, but since I just replaced the PCV valve, what else could it be? The clicking also seems to sync up with the engine cycling..
My corolla has been burning 2 quarts of oil every 5000 miles since 80k miles. It's at 100k now. I guess worst case is there's a broken valve seal and I'm getting high pressure in the crank case. I also heard it could be a vacuum leak. I'm going to try and check the vacuum pressure, but is there anything else that I should be looking for?
I rigged a gauge from a brake bleeder pump into a tee in the vacuum booster line and it ran pretty steady at 20Hg. Accelerated a little and it hit 25Hg and came back down. It flutters a little at around 1 Hg, but I'm wondering if my vacuum rig is a bit leaky itself.
Here's a recording of the clicking: [URL] ....
Car is 2000 Corolla with 60k miles that sometimes has a low idle (sometimes) when driven for the first 15 minutes early morning. Especially when accessories turn on, the RPM drop suddenly to 600 and recovers to 623 then back to 650rpm. After 15 minutes, everything works fine (normal 650 rpm)....my guess is the IAC Valve/throttle body needs cleaning.
What exactly do I need to tell me mechanic? That both the IAC Valve and throttle body needs to be clean? Also, after "cleaning it using a spray"....should he wait till the "spray dissipates"? What happens if it goes inside the engine?
I just had my oil changed and was told that my rack and pinion was leaking also my valve cover leaked I had the gasket change about a year ago an the leak is so slight it wont even show up in my dip stick, is it possible the valve cover leak is getting on the rack boot. Also can I change just the boot car has 15000mi in great shape an well maintained.....
View 7 Replies95 corolla 250K miles. CEL light on for 7 years or so at 150K miles. Dealer said clogged EGR valve.
I didn't get it fixed as car was already old at the time.
Is it worth fixing now? Or has the damage already been done or not done?
The car almost never pings, mostly highway driven.
Mechanic said even if you just replace the valve (which costs hundreds) it could still necessitate cleaning passages and such and could cost more.
I wondered if it is just possible to "clean not replace" but he said there's no guarantee it can just be cleaned and even so, cleaning alone can cost hundreds if it's all gunked up.
My uncle has a 1997 Corolla that has been sitting on his garage for about 2 years. We jump started the car and after a while recharging the battery, we saw fumes coming out from the engine. I then noticed that there was oil all over the front of the engine.. From what I have found in google it seems that this is a valve cover leak. How serious can these be? Are they easy to fix? because my uncle is thinking on calling the junkyard.
View 13 RepliesI replaced my EGR valve vacuum check valve, but now started getting sputtering/rough idle. I'm pretty sure the direction of the vacuum check valve is correct, but I tried both ways to be sure and still got the sputtering at idle.
The old vacuum check valve didn't give me the sputter. I only replaced it because it was melted and I'm not sure it was working. I included a photo of it. It's orange and black.
I'm putting a new evaporator into my '87 F250. The manuals I have give conflicting numbers on how much oil I should add to the system. How much oil is needed in this replacement? Also, do I add the oil to the accumulator or pour it into the new evaporator?
View 3 RepliesMy a/c was blowing but the air wasn't cold. No freon, so the dealer loaded up with freon containing a tracer. After a week, the tracer is coming out of the evaporator drain only, which implicates the evaporator as the source of the leak.
I just hit 150K miles and was extolling my repair free existence, when I had to do the front struts, brakes, and new tires (again); followed by this. Can't find a reference to evaporator leaks anywhere (a lot of mold maybe, but nothing requiring replacement. Did my luck just run out, or is this more common than I think?
I have a Matrix XR 2010 with front bumper sporty look . I like to change the front bumper to regular bumper and the reason is that for the last two winter seasons I have broken the spoilers and basically wreck the bumper.
View 2 RepliesI bought a brand new Toyota Corolla LE, took it for a ride, then went jogging and while jogging I lost one of the master keys. Now, I got me a replacement key/fob and I have been able to program the buttons to lock/unlock the car , however, I have not had any success programming the chip to start the, local dealer here in the Bay Area want a lot of money that I currently don't have.
View 2 RepliesI have had a problem with my car idle hunting for about the past year. Last week my car threw a code and my code checker said that all 4 cylinders were misfiring. So I am still under warranty and took the car to the dealer. They said the intake manifold was leaking.
Two questions come to mind: Has to engine suffered any damage from leaking for over a year? and Do they automatically change the oil when changing out the intake manifold/gasket?
I did have an oil analysis last year (5/11) through Blackstone Labs and no antifreeze was present in the oil but the silicates were mildly high. Car is a 2005 toyota corolla with 102,xxx miles. The dealer also did the head gasket and a couple other engine gaskets 1 year ago.
I recently had my gasket replaced and 24 hours later, there were several oil leaks in my driveway and oil dripping from my 99 Toyota Corolla every time I parked. I brought it back to the shop this am since they were no open on Saturday. My question is they stated it might just be a loose filter and/or a bad filter.
View 4 RepliesReplacing the evaporator? I am just curious how big of a job it is. I have the a/c equipment to service the system. Its on my 01 f-250 with a 7.3.
View 6 RepliesYesterday my 1995 Toyota Corolla (which runs well otherwise) started making the loudest rumbling exhaust sound I've ever heard whenever I stepped on the gas pedal. It also felt like it had trouble accelerating when I would try to get going after a stop. I took it to a mechanic right away, who says it needs a new catalytic converter and resonator pipe.
My boyfriend says this is a repair he could do. He has done some car repair and worked with a mechanic before, so I am considering trusting him on that, but I don't know what types of repairs he's done before and I know he has never worked on this model. What would you take into consideration whether or not it would be safe to attempt this repair at home?
I seem to be having a leak occuring from somewhere within the engine compartment, as I see beads of water dripping into the driver side and passenger side carpets. It only occurs when I turn the fan/A/C on.
This is leading me to believe that the evaporator drain is clogged, the only issue is: Where is it exactly located? I'm looking near the passenger side firewall within the engine compartment for a small black rubber hose, but I can't seem to find it. Is it further down underneath the firewall?
To add insult to injury, the VSA, traction control and check engine light both turned on today. I'm not sure if this is the result of persistent water leaking and causing something to short (I don't really know how water has been leaking for) but what could've caused that?
I recently bought a 2003 VW jetta 1.8T with 150,000 miles on it. After the purchase I got about 20 miles down the road and it overheated. I noticed there was oil in the expansion tank. I replaced the head and head gasket on the vehicle. As i was taking everything off I noticed that there was green coolant in the car. WhenI took the head off the pistons were glazed over and a lot of things were charred.
So I cleaned everything and put the new head and gasket on. After everything i cleaned the expansion tank of the oil and put new coolant in. After I drove it around for a little bit and everything seemed fine and there was no oil mixing with coolant. So I left got another 20 miles down the road and it started steaming and the overheated light came on. I checked the engine and there was no oil in the expansion take but the coolant was just pulsing it wasn't a constant flow.
I have a 2003 Toyota Camry with 210,000km on it. Today I popped the hood, noticed the coolant was slightly low in the over flow reservoir so I looked around the engine bay. Now I know generally coolant does not go up that far and it's just oil... But this has got my head turning. There's a crusty coolant residue drip that looks to start at the valve cover. At first I thought maybe the water pump was leaking, and the pulley was spinning it farther up, or spraying back from a rad leak when driving. but the fact it's crusty and A clear line that looks like a drip that's a slow leak and has crusted over time makes me wonder.
I mean generally coolant wouldn't come out of the valve cover unless it was right full of coolant, causing enough pressure to push it out... Am I wrong ? Once I get to the shop on Monday I'm going to pressurize the cooling system and pull the spark plugs and the valve cover to look at the head, The highest spot I see the drip start is the valve cover, only thing I could think of is the intake leaking, and traveling over there but even then, it doesn't make sense to me. The thermostat housing is about 2.5" under so it can't be that... It's such a small leak, the reservoir is only down about maybe half an inch and the oil looks clean as can be.... There's some pictures below that you can somewhat see it.
2003 Golf GTI Turbo... New to VW, I'm a jeep guy and bought a GTI for my wife to try rally cross in. It had some problems that I knew about when I bought it, had to replace CV shafts, control arms, fix broken trans mount, etc. I'm on to the last piece of the puzzle now.
The expansion joint on the downpipe from the turbo is basically exploded. Not a big deal, just buy a new downpipe and biky everything together right? Not so much. Bought one the other day, it showed up and has 3 bolts on turbo side, mine has 4.
When I look at the other stock turbo downpipes, it looks like they have 3 bolts as well. What's going on? Did the previous owner put a different turbo on this? I just need the damn downpipe, but can't figure out which one to order.