Toyota - Corolla :: 2002 - Ticking Valves At Past 50 MPH While Motor Is Unloaded?
Oct 12, 2015
I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla CE with 160,000 miles on the odometer. While driving at highway speeds (50+ mph), if I let off the gas ever-so-slightly, an audible ticking (like the sound of a sewing machine) begins. It immediately goes away as soon as the motor begins to decelerate or accelerate again. It ticks the loudest while the motor is directly in between accelerating and decelerating, while I am trying to maintain the speed I am traveling at. The sound started 6 months ago and was almost unnoticeable, but has gotten steadily louder the more I drive it. From what I have already researched, I believe it might the valve lifters needing to be changed, but wanted to get a second opinion.
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I have a 02 celica gt with 120,000 miles and when the engine is on I hear a ticking noise by the valves, is it normal...
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95 corolla 250K miles. CEL light on for 7 years or so at 150K miles. Dealer said clogged EGR valve.
I didn't get it fixed as car was already old at the time.
Is it worth fixing now? Or has the damage already been done or not done?
The car almost never pings, mostly highway driven.
Mechanic said even if you just replace the valve (which costs hundreds) it could still necessitate cleaning passages and such and could cost more.
I wondered if it is just possible to "clean not replace" but he said there's no guarantee it can just be cleaned and even so, cleaning alone can cost hundreds if it's all gunked up.
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Last February I got my car battery replaced. It was less than 2 years old and went dead if I didn't drive my car in at least the past day. I brought it to Sears and they replaced the battery and gave me a discount for the short life of the previous battery.
About 4 months later, it started happening again. Now it's down to only about 6 hours of non-driving. I had the battery tested at Sears, another garage where I was getting other work, and by my father, who has all the meters and is a former machinist.
Everyone says the battery is in good shape, the cables are secure, and the battery is taking a charge. It's a 2002 Toyota Corolla ....
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Three days ago, my 2002 Taurus ses, 144k, auto, 3.0 v6 motor, started "ticking" after I drove it to the local grocery. It is coming from the top of the motor, but does not make noise when it is first started, cold, only after it is warmed up. Oil & filter has 2500 miles on them, all other fluids are good.
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I recently took my 2010 Corolla CE to my dealership and had some minor work done on the brakes (rust cap cleaned, calipers machined as well)
The new problem now is that I hear a ticking sound while driving as if something is touching.. The Technician at Toyota said there was still 70% on the pads and 80% left on the rear shoes.. Encountered a ticking sound while driving along?
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I have a 2009 toyota corolla le (japan made) 66,000 miles on it that is making a ticking sound from the passenger side of the engine toward the front. we have taken the car to both a dealership and independent shop and have been told 2 different things. dealership says alternator needs to be replaced (which really doesn't make sense to me because it is a newer car with only 66,000 miles on it) shop says ac compressor clutch needs to be replaced but actual compressor is fine. ( down side to this is for this year make and model they do not make just the clutch so no matter what we would have to replace the whole compressor) the ticking noise does quicken when car is accelerating and sometimes completely goes away when driving 50mph +. we did recently have the drive belt replaced as well, don't know if this could be related to the ticking sound. also when starting the car the belt does squeal a little but i am figuring that is because the belt is brand new?
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I have a little vibration from the motor mounts which disappears with an extra soft touch on the gas pedal at idle. If I would keep the car I would change the mounts, but there are a lot of new parts already....I cleaned inside the plenum.....
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My son's 2010 Toyota Corolla S made a "rattling ticking sound at idle" twice this week.
I can't duplicate it, the oil level is fine and everything is working.
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Here's a bit of background on the car itself:
It's a 2003 corolla, 180k miles, and was sitting an entire year. About a month ago, I replaced my battery, and did an oil change. After the oil change, I started getting a few random symptoms:
loud ticking sound in my engine
check engine light with code P1349, VVT System (but it's disappeared since)
oil light on and off, intermittently.
With a bit of research on the error code, people have said to replace the VVT-i actuator. Do you think this solenoid has a large potential as the source of the issue? I purchased one for around $100 from Autozone, but am having a tough time removing it from the engine.
If you think this is the issue, how can I remove the solenoid? Do I just unbolt the one bolt I see on there and yank? Or is there something else I'm missing?
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2014 IS350 ... having issues with loud ticking from engine? Sounds like it's coming from the engine valves. Lose valves maybe? My car only has 16k miles. But the ticking is annoying. I cant imagine the valves ticking that loud with such low miles. And it ticks even after warmed up. The oil is within normal range and still looks clean. I'm not due for an oil change for another 2k. (i change the oil every 5k). I am considering switching to sightly higher weight oil for the summer time.
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Any explantion for how a "bad" starter motor can crank the engine, but use too many amps in the selenoid circuit?
I had this problem when I installed a rebuilt starter motor in an early 1990's Toyota Corolla recently. It was one of those offshore rebuild starter motors. When I installed it, and turned the key to start, nothing. ARRG .. I have to take it back, and it takes me about 2 hours to install it, and another 1 hour to remove it! It's not like changing a lightbulb!
Anyway, first off, before removing it, I checked the voltage (that comes in the smaller cable from the ignition switch,not the one in the thick cable direct from the battery) right at the starter selenoid, and it was only 8.6 volts. At first I thought it was a weak battery, but the battery voltage was 11.8 volts under the same load at the battery. And the voltage at the ignition switch was 11.6 volts. It was loosing 3 volts in the wiring path from the ignition switch to the starter motor! Then I noticed the wiring harness was getting warm that held that wire. Oh Oh.
For the life of me I couldn't figure out what was wrong. Unwilling to throw in the towel and remove the unit, I decided to completely bypass the ignition switch and the entire wiring harness, so I wired it up with my own switch I bough at Radio Shack and my own 16 AWG (the wire in the harness is 18 AWG) wires clipped direct from the battery to the starter selenoid. This is all from the front of the car. I just wanted to see if I could get it to turn and crank the engine. It worked, it cranked ok and everything, but the second time I tested it with this experimental configuration, it melted my 10 Amp Radio Shack switch! The switch was supposed to be able to handle 10 amps! Remember, this is the selenoid circuit, not the main power circuit from the battery.
So I then DID throw in the towel, and took it out, took the starter motor back to the auto parts place. ( I had a little dust-up with the parts place manager; he at first refused to refund my money. He wanted me to take another rebuilt one, but I'd lost trust in their rebuilt units and I just wanted my $$ back. We compromised on a voucher for future purchases.) Anyway, the parts place tested the problem starter motor I had returned to them, and they said it tested "bad". So the one they sold me was indeed no good. (Why they didn't test it before they sold it to me is another question.)
But here's the mystery: If the rebuilt starter motor tested "bad", and it indeed was "bad", how could it have cranked the engine with the experimental heavy guage wiring ? Any explantion for how a "bad" starter motor can crank the engine, but use way too many amps in the selenoid circuit?
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The air conditioning blower motor stopped working this past summer (worst timing ever). I took it out, put it back in, and it worked again for a day before dying for good. So, I ordered a new one and replaced it. The replacement was working fine for about 5 months, but it then began exhibiting the same problem as the original: it wouldn't come on until after I'd been driving for a while. The new unit never made any unusual noises while running (the old one got noisy just before I replaced it), but now it isn't coming on at all. I find it hard to believe that the replacement blower motor has failed after only 5 months. What else should I check?
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I have a 2011 Toyota Corolla S 5 speed manual and after 15000 miles I noticed a ticking noise in my engine bay and goes away once I push down on the clutch, but once I get off the clutch the noise comes back. Is this a normal thing or should I be concern? I have 75000 miles on my car now, is it covered through the extended manufacturer warranty coverage of 120000 miles?
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My sister was driving my '02 Corolla (120K miles) this morning when the RPM's started to fluctuate between 1500-2500 for a few seconds. Did it on the highway (60 mph) and then again on a city street (45 MPH). Then back to normal. Had a tune up etc less than 2 months ago.
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Just as the title says, 214k great shape just wont get going more you mash the less it goes.... fuel pump already replaced, can undo battery and take a while to reset feels to do fine then goes back to bogging down... TPS ? idle air control?
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When I stop for a few minutes, such as at a light, or making a left hand turn, my car hesitates. The place I take it to cannot find the problem and they have replaced a lot of things in it, but still no change. It is a 2002 car, so it is a little older, but I have always kept it in good shape, it has 65,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla. On a hot day (the first in a while), I got a check engine light for P0125. I'm going to clear it and see if it comes back. I think it is a false alarm for insufficient engine coolant. If the code and check engine light come back, what should I do?
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Wierd thing happened this morning to my 2013 Corolla. Put key into ignition switch and put it to "ACC" but wasn't paying attention and went just past the detent. So then a sound like the radiator fan under hood started. Turned it to "IGN" and it went away.
I can recreate this. If you go to "ACC" and slowly keep turning eventually a relay kicks and the fan (not AC, but a loud noise like radiator fan) comes on. Going to either "ACC" or "IGN" will stop it? This normal?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla CE with about 115,000 miles.While I was traveling on the highway my car started shaking, losing power, and the check engine light started flashing. I drove a mile or two to a rest area because I didn't want to pull over on the highway. I had it towed home. It starts and idles, but I'm afraid to get it out on the road.
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Had the oil changed today; before doing so, I saw that the check engine light had come on. Have been told by 3 professional car maintenance people that there is no connection between needing oil / oil change and check engine, that it would have been the check maintenance light.
Will take it in for diagnostic test by dealer. Also, was told by the oil change guy that he heard pinging which could mean that the car needs to have the valves adjusted, and that the check engine light is due to needing something or other with the gas tank filter which could have a leak/crack, etc.
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