Toyota - Corolla :: 2000 - Trans Fluid Has Been Slowly Declining
Feb 24, 2015
Car is 2000 Corolla 4-spd auto at 65k miles (bought used 3 years ago). Replace CV axles about 1.5 years ago.
When I backed out today, I saw a red fluid in the snow. Also, my trans fluid has been slowly declining (I've been adding more in).
Where is it likely to leak from? Is the only place the output shaft seals? Would the mechanic be able to spot it out easily?
I saw some posts where the entire gearbox had to be removed (but i think that was for a manual trans)..I hope that doesn't apply to autos.
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I just changed my corolla trans fluid for the first time. the owners manual said a drain and fill take 3 quarts of T IV trans fluid. I purchased 3qts of T IV but more than 3 qts came out so I am about 8 to 12 oz. short. All of the toyota dealers are closed to day so I can not buy any until tomorrow. can I drive it this way for one day without hurting anything or should I put some of the old trans fluid back in?
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I have a 2005 Toyota Corolla. It's in great shape, except that everytime I slowly press the brakes, I hear what I would describe as a gurgling/ bubbling sound coming from under the hood. It doesn't happen when I quickly step on the brakes or come to a more sudden stop, only when I'm gently easing into a stop. I took it to the dealership and they just said that I might need new brake shoes, but couldn't explain the gurgling sound (which I'm assuming is caused by some type of fluid).
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2000 Excursion 7.3 unk transmission
Quick run down on the situation. It has been terribly hot here bumping 105 degrees. I was told by a man he could see fluid leaking and it was trans fluid. I checked it and filled it up and got it to the shop.
Next day they said it was not leaking and that it probably overheated. They recommended an after market trans cooler. They put it in and off I went. 60 miles later I got fluid all over the rear of the truck. I filled it up again and got it home. Shop says I need a new trans.
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My 2000 4x4 4runner just after it starts up tends to have a funky idle. It rarely goes above 2000 rpm but it ranges from 300-1500 when idling after start. Also when I drive home from work it tries to idle as low as it can then if I don't rev the engine it usually dies in the middle of traffic. Once it's going it's fine though. I've already cleaned the IAC and the Mass airflow sensor. Maybe one needs to be replaced or just a tune up?
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At least that's when I notice it,... right in that range, seems the car hesitates and then starts up again and hesitates,... and you can see the tachometer go up to around 2 k and then down to 1600 rpm,.. but I am not accelerating with the gas peddle. Thoughts on what is causing this..
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It's a '00 zr2, usually after 15-20mins driving I see smoke blowing out rear at highway speed. If I'm driving slow same results with smoke just rolls out from hood. Smells like trans fluid although doesn't seem like the level is any lower yet.... Guessing gasket when under pressure, I would guess passenger side hitting manifold but I haven't seen obvious leaks don't know where to start.
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I drained the transmission fluid on my 2000 f250. I measured the fluid at about 6 quarts. I refilled with 6 quarts. I drove until the engine was hot and checked the fluid while running in park. Each time I check it I get a different reading on the dipstick. I wipe off the dipstick each time but sometimes I pull it out and it reads low. The next try it shows about 1/2 inch over full on the dipstick. Can't get two consistent readings. Is it harmful if it is a little over or under full?
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I've recently bought a 2002 toyota corolla wagon. I noticed the transmission fluid of the automatic gearbox has been overfilled. This measurement was with a cold and switched off engine and on a level ground. Is this something I should be concerned about and can it cause damage? Should I have it drained to the normal level or is it ok to keep it this way? I didn't come with a manual so I'm not sure if i measured correctly.
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my toyota solara v6 SE 2000 has as i think trans problem it won't reverse yesterday as i took it last week to semeone to do engine oil change but instead he drop off the trans oil and add more oil to the engine , and as i don't know i drove it like 1/2 mile with no trans fluid , we figured out that late ! i keept shifting between D & R, 2 & L IT ALWAYS GO FORWARD and no more reverse, what's going on ? before i replace the trans !?
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I have a 1997 Ford F-150 XLT 4x4 with the 4.6W and a 4R70W trans. For the past year is has been leaking trans fluid and has slowly got worse and worse. At first the truck would only leak at high speeds (when driving on the interstate for extended periods of time) and now It has gotten to the point where I am adding close to a quart of fluid a week. ( roughly about a quart every 300 miles!). I thought that it was the pan gasket leaking at first, so I flushed the trans fluid (dropped the pan and drained the TC and put on a new filter) put a new gasket on and torqued it all down and added some new Valvoline max life fluid. The first trip in the truck I noticed a puddle of fluid under the truck again.
The pan looked like it could have been a little warped, so I ordered a new pan and a new FoMoCo gasket (the one the came with the new filter was the cheap felt type). I thought I for sure had fixed the truck this time, but I drove it and once again it was still leaking. I checked all that I could before replacing the pan and gasket. I checked the trans cooler lines and fittings (no leaks) I pulled the inspection plug and it was dry (so I ruled out the front pump or TC leaking). The whole underside of the truck is covered with fluid so it is hard to pin point the leak, but most of the fluid drips down on the transmission cross member.
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I have Toyota Camry 2005 LE, 180.000 miles ( first owner )
Few months back I noticed that my Camry is sputtering on low RPM below 2000 ( but never when engine is cold )
Car is driving perfect on the highway but in the city sputtering get very annoying when on low RPM and high gear.
My remedy for that is to press overdrive off button after this sputtering always goes away.
My transmission fluid level when HOT is 1 inch above HOT mark
And when in cold next ( morning ) label is still above HOT mark
Fluid level never goes down to COLD mark
What are the cause of the tran fluid be on same level and can sputtering be the symptom of it?
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2000 toyota corolla feels like it has no brakesI had the brake master cylinder replaced a few months ago - so that's not itThe mechanic also replaced the shoes - so that's not itAfter I told him it still feels like the is low etc. he adjusted them or something - so that's not itIt still feels the sameWhat should I do?
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I have a 2000 Corolla with 51k miles that I bought a couple of months ago.
Things I replaced:- both front ball joints- both front CV axles (half shaft)...previous left front one was leaking- all struts (complete struts that included coil, strut, mount)- all sway bar end links- 4 new tires (only put 200 miles on them)- balance and alignment - Firestone checked for bent rims - none found- Made sure all 4 PSI levels are 30
Before the new tires, there was a vibration at 60-70mph, after the new tires, there is a vibration at 40-50..seems to go away at 60-70mph. When braking, the steering wheel shimmied (turn left/right short distances rapidly)...replacing the ball joints fixed that....the mechanic also tightened the front control arms..that could've fixed it too.
When going very slowly over a flat road, I can feel the front left tire "hop" very slightly. By hop, I mean that it is not round like (seems like a high spot). I jacked all 4 wheels and checked for any amount of play - none.
Could this be an out of balance (even though I put 4 new tires) or control arm issue? Maybe the control arm bushings are gone and it allows vertical movement during load?
When turning the steering wheel left, it also makes a "pop" sound which is definitely coming from the strut mount area...might be related.
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My 2000 Corolla CE does not have ABS, I've heard the correct way to brake is to pump the brakes. Should I press the brake slowly and then depress fully and then press again OR should I press the brake, depress half way, and press again? How fast should I pulsate it? My commute involves a lot of braking and I don't want the rotors to become warped.
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I have a 2000 Toyota corolla with about 170,000 miles and it is using about one quart of oil every 500 miles. The last couple places I took it to said the compression was bad in the number 4 cylinder. Another place said it was a leaking head gasket. Which is most likely, and is it worth getting it repaired given its age and mileage?
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I have a 2000 toyota corolla, with 1.8 16 valve. 105,000 miles, manual trans.. Just bought this veh. says misfire cylinder 4. So here is what I have done.
I started trouble shooting. swapping coils from cylinder 4 to other cylinders to see if the code follows after clearing it. No, stayed at 4..
So I moved on to the fuel injector. I did the same thing to see if it followed.. no stayed at cylinder 4. I changed the plugs, stilll misfire..
I did a compression check, I have 170 on 1,2,3, and on cylinder 4 I have 0. Yep, none...
I have some black smoke when the car is under load, as in acceleration, shaking and constant miss. lack of power... Trying to determine whether it is the rings or valves or what.. I took valve cover off and checked for broken spring, and they all seem ok. No oil in my coolant or vise versa.
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I drove my car to the store today without any problems. When I started it back up again, I noticed a clicking sound. At first I thought that maybe I had turned on the turn signal or the emergency blinkers, but neither was on. I turned off the car and restarted it. The clicking restarted when I turned the car back on. I tried turning off my headlights, and the clicking got louder. I turned them back on and it got quieter.
At that point I decided to just drive home. The clicking stopped and restarted several times during my trip. I checked the oil, and it's fine. What could be making the noise?
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Car is a 2000 Corolla with 62k miles. My rear brake light (driver side) went out (pretty sure it is the bulb). 2 months ago the blinker relay went out and I replaced it.
Do most mechanics have the bulb on hand?
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I own a 2000 Toyota Carolla, in reasonably good shape (95,000 miles) with no rust on the body (it was a Texas car until last year). This problem happened in Texas, on the unusual times that it froze, and in Michigan, obviously very often. The car freezes: the doors edges, locks, latches, wipers, wiper fluid, windows, and trunk freeze solid. I've tried using the lock de-icers, hand sanitizer, WD-40, hairdryers, special fluid for the wipers etc. all to no avail. I live in an apartment complex so I do not have a heated garage at my disposal. This is a very annoying problem, which often means I cannot use my car, even though the rest of it works perfectly. I've searched the Internet for more answers, but find none. Clearly, there is moisture inside the car that freezes up in cold weather... but I can't imagine how or why. I've never spilled anything in there, and it's had a long, hot summer of drying out if there had been something there. But on the first freeze of the year, viola: no frigging way can I get into my beloved little auto.
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I inherited my Mother's 2000 Corolla CE with low mileage. I know that since the car was knew, she had the dealer check on why the horn did not blow every time she pressed it. I do not have those repair papers, so I do not know what they did to the car. Again, after each of 3 visits to the dealer, the horn would work for a few months. Finally, she gave up. Arizona does not test the horn, anyway. So, now, I am having the problem. (Also in my V90 Volvo post). Two cars with no horns.. Short of pulling out the air bag and the wires? Bad ground somewhere?
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