I have a 2000 corolla ce with 51k miles I bought recently.
While going to work this morning, I had to hard brake from 50mph. The car slid several feet but came to a safe stop.
Now when I'm driving, my right wheel is clicking....like a light clicking noise. Could hard braking have damaged the wheel bearing or cv joint?
I drove my car to the store today without any problems. When I started it back up again, I noticed a clicking sound. At first I thought that maybe I had turned on the turn signal or the emergency blinkers, but neither was on. I turned off the car and restarted it. The clicking restarted when I turned the car back on. I tried turning off my headlights, and the clicking got louder. I turned them back on and it got quieter.
At that point I decided to just drive home. The clicking stopped and restarted several times during my trip. I checked the oil, and it's fine. What could be making the noise?
I had the front right wheel bearing replaced on my Toyota Corolla (60,000 miles) replaced a couple days ago. One day after the repair, I heard a high pitched clicking noise which was noticeable around 20-30 mph. Yesterday, I still noticed the high-pitched sound but also a grinding/popping sound in front left side when coming to a stop upon every rotation of the tire. Took the car back to the shop to let them listen to the noise, but really weren't very compliant since it doesn't sound like a wheel bearing problem.
Here is YouTube link to noise car is making : [URL] .....
My Corolla seems to be dying on me. What could be wrong with it.
It burns oil (a lot: 1.5 liters on 380 km). Black/ blue? smoke from the exhaust.
Idles very low at times (800rpm) and a little high at other times (1300rpm?).
Jerks / stutters while driving (since valve cover gasket (I think that was the one) was changed, due to burning of oil)
Clicking sounds while accelerating.
I have a 2000 Corolla with 51k miles that I bought a couple of months ago.
Things I replaced:- both front ball joints- both front CV axles (half shaft)...previous left front one was leaking- all struts (complete struts that included coil, strut, mount)- all sway bar end links- 4 new tires (only put 200 miles on them)- balance and alignment - Firestone checked for bent rims - none found- Made sure all 4 PSI levels are 30
Before the new tires, there was a vibration at 60-70mph, after the new tires, there is a vibration at 40-50..seems to go away at 60-70mph. When braking, the steering wheel shimmied (turn left/right short distances rapidly)...replacing the ball joints fixed that....the mechanic also tightened the front control arms..that could've fixed it too.
When going very slowly over a flat road, I can feel the front left tire "hop" very slightly. By hop, I mean that it is not round like (seems like a high spot). I jacked all 4 wheels and checked for any amount of play - none.
Could this be an out of balance (even though I put 4 new tires) or control arm issue? Maybe the control arm bushings are gone and it allows vertical movement during load?
When turning the steering wheel left, it also makes a "pop" sound which is definitely coming from the strut mount area...might be related.
I have a 2000 Corolla CE with 48k miles. When braking hard, the pedal vibrates and the brake performance was not that good. So I had the mechanic replace the front calipers (L&R), both brake pads on front, and rear drums.
After that, when braking, the pedal vibrates...but not that much. So I had the mechanic replace the front rotors (L&R). Now, when braking, the performance is good and it does not vibrate.
However, if I brake really hard...there is a little bit of pedal vibration AND shaking steering wheel. My car also needs an alignment since it pulls to the left (will get one on Friday).
Do you think the shaking steering wheel and the slight pedal vibration is due to the alignment or maybe the rear rotors need to be replaced? When traveling at 70mpg, sometimes the steering wheel slightly (very slightly) shakes....my guess this the tires need to be balance/alignment.
I get a creaking/clicking noise coming from my front wheels when braking at slow speed. can be rhythmic at times which makes be think it may be a ball joint or bearing.
Also it may be related or unrelated... Between 70-80km/h my front driver side wheel gives off a "Hum". I thought it may have been unbalanced wheels since it started when I put the summer rubber on, but the tire shop said they are balanced and thats not it. The Hum goes away when driving at any other speed.
Just last month I had my brakes done (a couple weeks prior to changing my rubber).
Front: New Rotors, Pads, Shims
Rear: Machined rotors, New Pads & Shims
Brake Flush Performed.
I just noticed that when I am taking a hard right turn such as getting on the freeway or exiting, I hear random clicking noises in rapid successions in random intervals. the traction control alarm also lights up when this happens. is this normal? it sounds like relays are going crazy. I have not tried left turn yet since there isn't many opportunities around.
Clicking happens under hard cornering which in turn causes TC light to come on and when still under acceleration.
I filled up my car three day ago and ever since then its been shaking when I brake and when I speed up and pretty much any time the car is moving. Why its doing this I just had it in the shop two weeks ago for a full check up. What the issue could be?
View 3 RepliesMy Toyota Corolla (2004) sometimes (not always)has noise when braking, but I had the brake pads replaced and rotors resurfaced in December last year. What might be the problems?
View 2 RepliesThere is an occasional noise that happens only when I am braking my 2003 Corolla. My mechanic has ruled out the brakes and says there is nothing apparent that would make it dangerous to drive the car. The noise has happened on hot days, cold days, dry days, rainy/snowy days. It doesn't happen each time I brake. When it does occur it ranges between a sound like a humpback whale's song to a very loud screech. When it does, it is always right before the car comes to a stop. It happens when I back up and when I am going forward. I cannot reproduce it (I drove with my mechanic all over heck and gone trying to get the car to make the noise, alas, it would not). However, I did capture it at its loudest.
View 3 RepliesI drive a 1995 Toyta Corolla. Two things that I should mention that may or may not be relevant. I have a history of electrical issues (I've replaced my alternator 3 times) primarily when it has been wet outside. I have also noticed smoke under my hood. I was initially scared this was an engine issue, but my brother assures this is due to a power steering leak
The issue at hand:
For the last couple days I've noticed a few things worth mentioning. First my brake light has come on a handful of times, however oddly never when actually braking. Secondly, my enigine will sometimes but not always stop running when I brake. At this point all my electrical systems still work (lights etc.) and all the lights on my panel come on (which I understand is normal if a car is on but engine not running). Lastly, my car has never not stopped, but it has been for the lack of a better term "mushy" for a couple weeks.
When I go to start the car again after this engine stop, sometimes it will immediately start, sometimes it will struggle (rewr rewr rewr) but then start, sometimes it will struggle and go to battery noise ""click click click"", and if we start getting the battery clicks it stays there until jumped.
My brother today went and checked my battery with an multimeter, and he states that my battery is both maintaining a charge and charging (He told me to tell you he got Cold not started 12.3 volts, car running 14.48).
When decelerating and braking, there is a strange clicking noise, and it seems to be coming from the brakes in some way on my 2002 Accent. It does sound like a metal clicking. Steering doesn't affect it, it happens on a corner or on the motorway. The only way to stop it is accelerate. The clicking is faster when the car is going faster, and slower when the car is going slower. The brake pedal isn't vibrating or anything, and I cant actually feel it.
I am certain this is a braking issue as it only started just after I got new brake pads about 2 months ago. It is not transmission related or anything like that. I have had some suggestions about axle's and CV joints but I doubt it's either of those as they are in good condition, and as I said, this started directly after having new brake pads installed!
I have a Toyota Corolla with 78K miles and when braking, a squealing noise came from the back when braking at low speeds. So I figured it was worn brake shoes, I took it to the mechanic but he said both the front and back brakes are good. I had him change both front and back anyway.
Now the squealing noise is gone but there is a still a noise...it sounds like the drum is rusted. It sounds like the noise in this video: [URL] .... (48 sec mark)
Do you think it's the drum or something else? How much would changing the drum (both sides) cost? Do I need to get new brake shoes also?
My Corolla recently started making a sporadic knocking sound when braking. It only seems to happen infrequently, but a couple of times I have noticed it happening when I go over a bump or crack in the road. Any clues as to what the issue might be?
View 5 RepliesOkay I have a 2006 Hyundai Elantra with 56,000 miles. Whenever I have been driving for a while in town and and the car is heated up, I get a clicking/popping noise coming from the front end whenever I reverse, turn the wheel, and then brake.
I've been testing it more but it won't always click or pop when i turn the wheel, but when I push the pedal down to stop it clicks and pops a lot. And then as I turn the wheel back without being on the brake pedal it'll click a little bit more.
Normally this would sound like a suspension problem but the fact that I have to push the pedal down to "activate" the sound has me baffled. And the weird thing is, is sometimes when I'm turning into a parking spot at low speeds it will click just a little bit..
It almost feels like the brake lines are getting tangled up and making sounds. I know that's not the case but I'm trying to describe the sound. It's not the normal pop you would get when a tie rod is going out. It doesn't really sound like its metal on metal. And it doesn't constantly click while reversing or turning like it would if it were the CV axle.
The car stops just fine though.. I'd even say the brakes are pretty touchy. The other issue I have with brake sounds is coming from the back. When I'm slowing down ... at around 15 mph it will click in the back every rotation. It has to be coming from the drum brakes. That doesn't concern me so much as it probably is time for new pads or something in the hardware needs tweaking.
When I brake very hard my right front wheel will skid, it releases quickly if I modulate the brakes. I removed the calipers to check for any frozen pistons. They are free. Pads are even and the rotors are good. I did bleed the system and no difference. what would cause this? Since I have looked at the mechanical aspect I wonder if there is sensor issue, is that a potential? I am not even sure if there is a sensor.
View 1 RepliesIf the front rotors are warped would I not feel it when braking anytime and not just braking hard at high speed?
View 2 RepliesAlong with the many other quirks of my 98 Toyota 4Runner, whenever I have to hit the brakes suddenly and hard it takes my car at least 30 seconds to become responsive to the gas pedal. When I try to accelerate, I can hear the engine rev, but the car doesn't move. Is this a brake issue, or could it be a transmission issue? I have 230k on it.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2010 Toyota Matrix with the 1.8L engine that has a battery drain that is causing it to click and have a hard time starting after it sits. The clicking is constant, and basically sounds like a dead battery, which it is.
Battery was taken out and tested on a bench at Pep Boys, came back 100%.
Checked my voltage at night after driving it and it was at 12.5 V, checked again in the morning and it was down to 9.6 V. I know I have a drain somewhere, and have read I may need to keep a jumper across the negative terminal to ground until the moment I hook up the multimeter to it to check for a power draw? Is this year/model known to have certain issues with parasitic drain?
I have a 2012 Explorer Limited with 95K miles. Under medium to hard braking, the steering wheel wobbles, and the car slows irregularly. I'm struggling to find the best word to describe. It's not a vibration or a shudder. It's like a pulsing that is slow enough to be counted. The car doesn't pull to a side under braking, either.
I put a dial indicator on both rotors, and they are nearly perfectly flat. There is no evidence of a leak anywhere. The only think I noticed is that the DS caliper had a little more pressure on the rotor, making the rotor harder to turn than the PS rotor.