Toyota - Corolla :: 2000 - Engine Spinning Like It Is In Second Gear When Come To A Full Stop
May 2, 2014
I had to really hard brake today over a very very short distance...the tires locked and the car slid for about 5 feet. Car is 2000 corolla, 4-spd auto.
As soon as I came to a full stop, I notice the engine was still "spinning" like it was in second gear...because the RPM was around 1000rpm (idle is 650). As soon as I started moving, there was a slight clunk noise (sounded like it came from CV half axle/transmission).
Although rare, This also happened a couple of times before when hard braking. It downshifts to 2.. idles around 1000rpm for a couple of seconds... and then there is a "slight" clunk noise.
Other than this, the transmission/engine has been very smooth and the car has no problems.
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So among the other annoyances my 92 Ranger 4.0 auto has it has a hesitation before it starts spinning the tires under full throttle from a dead stop. It's the 4.0 automatic. I thought it would have more power than it actually does being use to a 2.5 auto. But this 92 4.0 runs and drives good. I've gotten it tuned up with new motorcraft wires, plugs, new coil, fuel filter, fuel pump assembly, fuel pressure regulator, air filter, idle air valve, new O2 sensor, new Dynomax muffler. I can't find any vacuum leaks. The engine idles slightly rough after you start it up from it sitting for a few hours, but quickly smooths out as soon as you start driving it.
This one here has no EGR. Transmission feels good, may have even been replaced by previous owner before we got it. It shifts good and the fluid is clean and the transmission is the cleanest part under the whole truck. No way of knowing for sure. The truck currently has 111,000 miles and I did all that stuff when we got it at 101,000 miles. So what could it be? I'm thinking a lazy injector or could it be the catalytic converter? Or could it be the throttle body? I know I once had a BBK throttle body on it and it made the world of difference in off the line power but it kept throwing too rich/lean condition and a TPS code so I had to return it. It sucks because it did wake up the motor. I returned it and since then the Check Engine Light hasn't come back on.
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Our 1999 automatic Rav 4 (157,000 mi) occasionally won't accelerate from a full stop or from a low, in-town speed. You step on the accelerator and the engine just flutters at low rpm, stuttering. If you drop it into neutral and start revving it will eventually "catch" and be fine. Very dangerous when entering roadways. We have a new timing belt, cleaned up throttle plate, new sparks, water pump, oxygen sensor.
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I have a 2000 Corolla CE I bought recently that had 45K miles on it (it has a 4spd auto with O/D).
When accelerating from a stop, I usually take it very slow and I notice that there is a slight jerk most of the time.....it's sort of like I can feel the gears engage. This doesn't happen all the time and it doesn't seem to happen if I accelerate fast.
I did a transmission drain & fill with Royal Purple MaxATF (the drain & fill was only once).
1) Is this normal for this transmission? Also, is there a "pan drop" for this transmission? The mechanic only removed the drain bolt...he did not do the pan drop.
2) During my work commute, I'm in a lot of rush hour traffic where it moves for short distances at 5-10mph. It will shift from 1st to 2nd a lot of times...is better to just put the car in 1st (L) gear? My mechanic said no because it will heat up the transmission faster.
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My R is vibrating in second gear near full or full throttle around 2,000 Rpm. It feels like a high frequency vibration. It seems to be only happening in that scenario. It's when the turbo spools up and there is a large rush of exhaust gas produced very quickly. My guess is that my apr downpipe paired to the stock cat back is the culprit. It didn't happen when I first put the downpipe on, but after the next track day it started. I don't know if there is anything to burn in inside the apr downpipe but it got louder too. Could it be back pressure from the stock cat back? It's very strange and I wondered if it is stage 2+ but running the stock cat back has felt this? I checked to see if the drive shaft was rubbing on anything and for any other visual indicators of rubbing around the downpipe and I see nothing. Perhaps it's the stock muffler. I'm just not sure.
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I have a 98 Toyota Corolla, manual transmission. When I come to a hard stop, or make a hard turn, the engine either stalls or almost stalls. I've had it serviced lately with new plugs and wires, oil change and fuel system cleaning. The engine idles fine when you start it and are just sitting there. The problem seems to come with stopping hard or turning while quickly slowing, when the clutch is engaged. If I am able to hit the gas I can keep it running and then it runs fine.
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I have a 2001 Toyota corolla with 150k. If I rev the engine with the car in neutral and my foot off the clutch, it starts to shake at about 2-2.1k rpm. It will also start to shake at 2.5-2.9k rpm when the car is in gear (I can feel it in any gear but it's most noticeable in 5th gear on the freeway).
I just replaced the spark plugs (I know, should have done that a while ago...) but it still has the same vibration. I'll be doing a compression test later today, but I did take a few minutes to check out the motor while the hood was up. I set up a camera and recorded the car from start up and hit 2.1k rpm a few times. The vibration isn't visible but the engine jumped a little right at start up.
Are the motor mounts bad? I've had that same vibration but a lot less intense since I've had the car, but it recently got a little worse.
I uploaded the video to youtube. Search "corollaprincess361"
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The fuel gauge in my 1999 Corolla is stuck on Full. My mechanic says it's the fuel sending unit and will cost $250 to replace. But today, the low fuel warning light came on and it appears to be functioning properly. Does the warning light use a different sensor or does that mean the fuel sending unit is working and the gauge problem is elsewhere?
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I have a 2000 Toyota Corolla LE that ran very well until about a month ago. It has about 146,000 miles on it. A month ago it started hesitating from a standstill and the engine ran extremely roughly when trying to move the car. But when I put it in low gear it did much better, although not great! When in Drive it barely moved the car at all and would frequently stop running completely.
When I took it to an auto parts store they hooked it up to their computer and it read out that I needed either spark pugs, spark plug wires, or a new coil. I have replaced the plugs, but that made little difference. I then took it to another auto repair place that told me that it was either a problems with valves, or a 'problems in the lower engine'. I don't know what that latter problems means but either way it sounds like it will be very expensive to fix.
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When I took my new used car to the mechanic, complaining how there must be an oil leak cause well by now 9 bottles of oil in 7 weeks time have been put in, the mechanic told me the engine is burning the oil too fast. He said something about the piston, but I got all confused. He also said that the only way to fix this is to replace the engine, but he recommended not to cause it would cost more than the car is worth. This is a 2000 Toyota Corolla. Why this is happening and what i should do about it.
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So I just replaced my oil pump and i am reassembling my front end and I just cant get my passenger side engine mount bolt to stop spinning so i can get the nut on (the mount underneath the car) , I have no clue how to stop the spinning
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Car is a 2000 Corolla CE.
When going at the desired speed (say 40mph) and there is lots of coasting room, I just let go off the accelerator and the car basically coasts. The engine RPM drops from 1600-1800 down to 900-1000 and it actually can coast a long way. Sometimes, I need to go faster (if I'm initially started at a slower speed) and when I press the gas pedal slightly, the tachometer shows the engine rpm jumps from the coasting 900-1000 to 1600-1800.
Is the tachometer (add on by ScanGuage) reporting it correctly? Is this a bad form of acceleration for the engine?
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I have a 2000 Honda Accord EX v6 and I have been taking it the dealer for regular maintenance and Oil Change but today I noticed my Car would not start
I can hear the engine start , but when I put the Gear (automatic ) in either reverse or D4 the engine will stop.
Then I waited for some time and restarted it and It was OK.
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My Toyota Corolla 2000, 123,000 miles, Mass license plate, still getting 34 miles per gallon, has had check engine light on and off for a year.Failed inspection this June.
First garage in Somerville, without doing more than getting the three readings above, said catalytic converter was needed $350 plus labor.I was unable to do the work then and returned to NYC and job. Took to another mechanic recently to get fixed (as I wasn't returning to Mass for a while)and got only PO 171. I mentioned the other readings; they kind of scoffed it off.Trying to save me money (I guess), they cleaned the MAF filter and fuel ejectors for $200. Looked like it was fixed. A week later check engine light came on again and when I brought in found the PO 420 reading. They did not tell me if other computer read-outs were coming up as well.
Now they want to leave the oxygen sensor in front but change the one behind. Put in a newcatalytic converter $539 {they had quoted me $238 but it wasn't an OEM one I guess and they said they wouldn't warranty anything but this expensive one), charge me$137 for the oxygen sensor190 laborplus taxfor a total of a whooping $946!
I am afraid they will do this very expensive job and the check engine light will come on and htey will say o its something else.how can i be sure? also I was reading for a catalytic converter to go bad, something has caused it...what would that be? how to find out. Do they need to do the diagnosis with gas analyzer etc?
Why I spend a huge amount for an old car that is running well, not losing gas mileage, but perhaps is a bit slower on power.
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My 2000 Toyota Corolla is making a knocking sound that gets worse when the car is in idle and in drive. I have a feeling that it is dying, but is it unsafe?
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Toyota celica 2000 GT automatic, has a problem on cold start, especially when the temperature is below 32 degree Fahrenheit. The engine starts and runs roughly, but most electrical devices do not work, the dashboard and car windows are power off and I can't change the gear so it can not move. Only after warming up for about 10 minutes then the dashboard will work, then everything is fine till the next morning. I sent it to a small garage but they found nothing.
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My 09 Corolla makes a groaning sound when I stop....sometimes. I have had the front brakes replaced and the rear cleaned but it still makes that sound...
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We have a 2005 Toyota Corolla whose brakes have been a problem since we bought the car four years ago. Every time our mechanic changes the brakes they squeak. They do not squeak for the entire time you hold the brakes, nor do they squeak when you slam the brakes.
They squeak once when you step on the brakes to come to a slow stop. This go around with the brake replacement, our mechanic has put two sets of new pads and shoes on. The first were the ceramic kind, this next one is the Toyota brand, the highest quality. Why the brakes are still squeaking.
First question, is this dangerous? The second question is, what the heck is going on? We have been back to him so many times.
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1996 Toyota Corolla base model 1yr ago dome lite would stop working,I then would sand contacts on dome lite and sand bulb it would then work for about 1 month now I do the same thing and lite will only work for about 20 min.(tried new bulbs many time) was told could be corroded or a bad relay, dont know what to do????
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I purchased a used 2010 Toyota Corolla LE with about 40k miles back in February of this year. Since then, the car has been issue-free and has responded accordingly.
Two weeks ago I noticed that the car when idle or at a stop light it'd make a subtle rattling noise (as if it was something behind the glove compartments rattling against metal). At 1st I thought maybe it was something inside, but as that week turned to days, I noticed that while I was outside the car and it was on and idle, I could hear the rattling from the right side of the car under the passenger seat (closer to the engine, as if right below where the glove compartment sat)--It is a constant rattle at the same frequency..meaning it doesn't rattle one way 1st and then another later. It sounds the same, but it is random.
It evolved from a subtle rattle inside to being a loud rattle outside under the car. I noticed that if it was rattling and I turned off the air, the rattling would stop, but after 20 seconds, the rattling would return just not as frequent.
It was advised to me that perhaps it was the blower...but the blower sits behind the glove compartment and should not sound so loud under the car. Not only that, but if the blower isn't on (when I turn off the air) it shouldn't sound...at least that's my logic for it.
The sound is getting louder and more frequent at this time and I'm just not sure what to do about this. I live in Miami, FL and hearing so many rip offs at mechanics, I don't know what this rattling is and I've already crawled under the car and see nothing wrong, nothing shaking violently, nothing.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla with a strange gas pedal problem. Randomly while driving the gas pedal will stop working. If I depress the gas pedal all the way when this issue happens it's as if I'm doing nothing. The car just goes to ideal. When I let off the pedal and reapply pressure it's like nothing ever happened. The car has 123k miles and an automatic transmission.
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