My 2000 Toyota Corolla is making a knocking sound that gets worse when the car is in idle and in drive. I have a feeling that it is dying, but is it unsafe?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2000 Explorer with the 4.0 OHV. 104,000 miles. Has always ran great. The last few days it has had a sputtering almost knocking sound that gets worse when put into gear or the ac turned on. I changed the oil and checked all fluids. Looks good. Only thing I had done was fill it up this past monday after a storm. My mother in law told me afterwards that the particular station always has complaints after rain and has leaks in their tanks. I'm assuming I may have gotten water into the system. Would this cause these problems? And is it ok to drive it out or should it be flushed. I've added a can of Iso Heat and am now down to 1/4 tank. I had planned on getting a little lower on fuel and filling up with Premium. I've never had a problem like this before so not really sure the best way to track the problem or fix it. Or it may be something else all together.
View 3 RepliesSometimes when my car as sitting at an idle in either drive or reverse the motor starts to make a knocking noise from the back of the motor towards the firewall side on the top of the motor. I have a video. The car has 114k I just changed the oil I thought maybe it's low but it's not and hasn't moved since it was changed.
View 4 RepliesMy brake pedal clicks when depressed, only at the start of pressing down on it. (This is a 2007 Corolla CE.) It only does this when the car is cold and started doing this during the very cold below freezing weather. The brake lights are all working, nothing else seems to be a problem -- brakes work fine, no vibration, etc. Brakes were checked out two months ago.
View 4 RepliesMy engine every now and then makes a lot of noise at startup for about 5 to 8 seconds at that same time the idle is very rough seems as if it is running on 2 or 3 cylinders instead of 4 after that it runs perfectly and is very quiet the car has almost 198000 miles on it
View 1 RepliesWe have a 2000 Saturn SL2 (120,000 miles). Last night we drove to L.A. and back (from San Diego) , so about 250 miles round trip. For the last 45 miles or so we had the radio on quite loud. At some point in that 30-45 miles the engine developed a very loud knocking noise - like rocks being spun in a tumbler - which we noticed when we got off the free-way and turned down the radio.
This noise did not effect the way the car handled as I did not notice anything when the radio was up. We have been listening to a lot of sounds and I am concerned it could be a Rod Knock - it sounds a lot like this [URL] ... from inside the car, outside it was more of a constant pinging/thunking noise - less gravel sound.
So my quandary is this, our mechanic is not open Sundays so I cannot ask him, but when we take it to him tomorrow, do we drive it or tow it? If the rod is starting to go I do not want to inadvertently do more damage by driving it. The mechanic is 8-10 miles away. We can get their either on the freeway or through surface streets.
I had a toyota prius gen 3 last year where it had an engine knocking sound, where I tried every TSB and changed the spark plugs, spark plug cables, intake manifold, engine knots..... etc., nothing worked except the following video which solved the knocking completely with no return.
View 12 RepliesToday I parked my 2014 Toyota Corolla while the shift was in drive and I turned off my engine. I let go of the brakes and it began to move backwards. I then realized what happened and shifted to Park and took out the keys and turned the engine back on to park it correctly. The on screen display seemed to restart or something when I did so. Will this hurt my vehicle? It is a CVT transmission by the way.
View 19 RepliesI drove my car to the store today without any problems. When I started it back up again, I noticed a clicking sound. At first I thought that maybe I had turned on the turn signal or the emergency blinkers, but neither was on. I turned off the car and restarted it. The clicking restarted when I turned the car back on. I tried turning off my headlights, and the clicking got louder. I turned them back on and it got quieter.
At that point I decided to just drive home. The clicking stopped and restarted several times during my trip. I checked the oil, and it's fine. What could be making the noise?
2003 Hyundai accent GL 5spd has new rings/bearings/lifters and all gaskets (when i got the vehicle it over heated to the point it shut off ) figured it was just a head gasket so replaced it found out rings were shot.. so that's the jist of it. okay so she's timed right spot on but when I go crank up the car it cranks over fast and i have to feather the throttle to get it to startup the IAC makes a weird buzzing sound and wouldn't idle right so i unplugged it and it'll idle fine. When it would finally crank up and idle she drives really well put about 20 miles on her so far just the starting issue pissing me off. I'll post a vid of it trying to start for better description...
View 1 RepliesMy son's 2010 Toyota Corolla S made a "rattling ticking sound at idle" twice this week.
I can't duplicate it, the oil level is fine and everything is working.
Recently my 2000 F350 7.3 crew cab has been making a growling/vibration sound by the glove box at idle. Seems to disappear at speed/higher RPM.
Any thoughts on what might be loose at firewall passenger side area?
Every day I make a u-turn around the median in order to get to our driveway...which means I turn the steering wheel all the way to the left. As I turn the wheel and drive, there is a clannnngKK sound on the driver's side from somewhere near the front. I wondered if there is something getting hung up/caught "under there" but have no real working knowledge (obviously) of my truck's anatomy. It only makes this noise when I make this u turn. I've not heard it any other time.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 1.8T with about 75k miles which makes a harsh rhythmic sound at idle after about 30 minutes of driving. If I tap the accelerometer to increase the rpm and release it goes away and is silent. Recently it also seems to be making the same sound when it starts but goes away as soon as I drive. The sound seems to be coming from the front lower right (passenger side).
I have changed the timing belt about 18 months ago (along with the water pump, tensioner, etc. using an ECS tuning kit) and it ran fine (seemed even smoother than before) but it had a small engine oil leak which my mechanic fixed. I think this sound started after he repaired the leak. I've left the car with him for a week and he just called and said it he couldn't figure it out but it could be an oil pressure problem but I have not had any issues with an oil pressure light.
I have had issues with the P0411 code over the same and have replaced both the secondary air pump and the combi valve but the code just reappeared and my mechanic says he has checked the entire system again and can't figure out what is causing the problem. Not sure if the two can be related but just thought I would add that. The car runs fine otherwise and I have always used synthetic and the large oil filter but I am beginning to think this could be a sludge issue (the noise).
I have an 05 Accent with about 115,000 miles. It is a GLS automatic.
This morning as I was pulling from a stop light about 30 seconds from my office the car was extremely sluggish. I noticed the CEL light blinking and could hear a knocking sound from the engine. I pulled over and found code P0303, cylinder #3 misfire.
I checked the spark plug cable on the coil side it looks ok. I have not been able to check anything else yet as I am at work.
I have a '98 5-Speed Corolla. If I rev the engine when the car is in neutral and warming up I hear an odd grinding noise when I let off the gas and the engine goes down to idle. The noise does not occur if I put my clutch in. Is this something to worry about?
Also, I'm wondering what CV joints sound like when they're failing.
After having the rear axle seal replaced 3rd time, my 2004 Toyota makes a sound/noise behind the dash, drivers side, in the engine compartment. Noise is intermittent and only when braking. Hard to describe....electronic sound. Brake pedal feels like ABS system is kicking in. But no ABS light comes on. Mechanics all tell me, "when light comes on, bring it back". Had the brake system flushed today? Still makes the noise.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1993 Geo Prizm (Toyota Corolla) that idles roughly and lopes only when the engine is fully warmed up to operating temp. I changed the plugs, and wires are only 1 year old and seem to be in good shape. I suspected a vacuum leak, but have not been able to find one.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2000 Toyota Corolla LE that ran very well until about a month ago. It has about 146,000 miles on it. A month ago it started hesitating from a standstill and the engine ran extremely roughly when trying to move the car. But when I put it in low gear it did much better, although not great! When in Drive it barely moved the car at all and would frequently stop running completely.
When I took it to an auto parts store they hooked it up to their computer and it read out that I needed either spark pugs, spark plug wires, or a new coil. I have replaced the plugs, but that made little difference. I then took it to another auto repair place that told me that it was either a problems with valves, or a 'problems in the lower engine'. I don't know what that latter problems means but either way it sounds like it will be very expensive to fix.
When I took my new used car to the mechanic, complaining how there must be an oil leak cause well by now 9 bottles of oil in 7 weeks time have been put in, the mechanic told me the engine is burning the oil too fast. He said something about the piston, but I got all confused. He also said that the only way to fix this is to replace the engine, but he recommended not to cause it would cost more than the car is worth. This is a 2000 Toyota Corolla. Why this is happening and what i should do about it.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2009 toyota corolla le (japan made) 66,000 miles on it that is making a ticking sound from the passenger side of the engine toward the front. we have taken the car to both a dealership and independent shop and have been told 2 different things. dealership says alternator needs to be replaced (which really doesn't make sense to me because it is a newer car with only 66,000 miles on it) shop says ac compressor clutch needs to be replaced but actual compressor is fine. ( down side to this is for this year make and model they do not make just the clutch so no matter what we would have to replace the whole compressor) the ticking noise does quicken when car is accelerating and sometimes completely goes away when driving 50mph +. we did recently have the drive belt replaced as well, don't know if this could be related to the ticking sound. also when starting the car the belt does squeal a little but i am figuring that is because the belt is brand new?
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