Toyota - Corolla :: 2000 - CV Axles Getting Stuck / Bind During Sharp Turns
Jul 15, 2014
Car is 2000 Corolla with 58k miles. My front left CV axle was leaking last year so I decided to replace both front CV axles with some generic brand from advanced auto parts (I think the brand was called ToughOne and it was new CV axles..not remanufactured). This was about 5000 miles ago. Before replacing the CV axles, this issue mentioned below never occurred.
The issue is that sometimes, when making slow sharp turns (more evident in right turns) and then immediately coming to a stop, sometimes the CV axles gets "stuck". If I let go of the brakes at the stop...the car rolls backwards (it feels like something is loose and the wheels "freeroll")! During this time, the engine is at 900-1000rpm (it should be 650 at idle). It's like the CV axles get disconnected from the transmission.Then, if I press down the gas pedal a little bit...the engine hits around 1400rpm and the CV axles "connect" again and there is a slight jolt and everything is alright.
This also happens at sudden stops (braking hard). Also a related issue: When making a quick sharp turn at normal speed, as soon as the steering wheel comes back to the center...the engine immediately hits 2300 rpm and then comes back down to 1600rpm. Its like the CV axles are disconnecting (transmission is still engaged and computer detects loss of power and raises engine rpm) and then reconnecting (computer detects power to the wheels are restored...and the engine rpm drops to normal levels).
The transmission fluid is fine, transmission shifts smoothly. Do you think the new CV axles are bad? The mechanic had trouble disconnecting the old axles...so he used a hammer...maybe he bent something?
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Picked up an '03 Eddie Bauer v8 with the full time AWD knowing that the transfer case needed to be replaced, I got a good deal so it was worth it. It's still driveable but it binds in sharps turns and I get the occasional knock. I have two questions really, what is the correct PN for the single speed transfer case for this year model?
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Toyota Corolla S 2009 Automatic 4 Door
Saturday I changed the starter because the old one was going out and I didnt want it to die so it was preventaive. Went to put in the sparkplugs but the dealer gave me the wrong ones, drove to the dealer and they pulled out one I had to check it and put it back in. (I had 9/16 long plugs, which is rare for my engine apparently.) I went to leave, and when I turned it over, nothing happened. I pulled the Key out, waited 5 seconds, started up. Went home, put in the sparkplugs and drove about 300 miles since Saturday and no problem.
Today I went to leave and the car turned over multiple times, after the 4th, it acted like it was starting but shut off and kept turning over.
First, I checked all the wires on the plugs and around them, even pulled all the plugs and put in the old ones. Same problem.
I unplugged the battery and hoped if it was a computer glitch that it would have fixed it. Same problem.
When I turn it over, the started keeps going and it will pretend to turn on for half a second and then keep turning over. I also smell raw gas when I get out of the car for a few seconds before it goes away.
The last time it did throw codes, but I have no reader. I have to wait for the neighbor to pull them. Is there anything I can test or check out? Everything as far as the wires and fuses look good. I am at a loss for where to go.
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My 1997 Toyota Corolla has recently began hesitating when starting. When I turn the ignition, her idle seems normal, but then goes 'down' and it feels like she's going to die. But then the idle/revs go back up and she's fine. However within the past week, she dies when starting (usually the first start or two of the day). She turns over, but then 'fizzles out' and dies. However when she does this, a small tap on the gas pedal revs her up.
This does not occur every time I start her. In fact the more I use her throughout the day, it seems she starts normal. There are no issues with RPMs/Idling when driving.
I've taken her to two mechanics and they could find nothing. Fuel pump, fuel line, throttle body, etc. All fine. When hooked up on the computer the only thing that showed a slight reading is the idle air control valve. But they can't be sure that's the problem.
Of course she hasn't died for the mechanics, just me as it's sporadic.
When I turned her on today she didn't die in the morning like she has all week, however the idle was so low that we were waiting for her to die. Slowly the revs picked up and she was fine!
I put fuel injector cleaner in a few days ago and got an oil change yesterday. That's it.
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My Axles started to make noises couple months ago While making Sharp turns. I bought some new axles for the front, but this will be my first time replacing CV Axles.
Any tips and or recommendations on what to do and not do, and tools to use? I watched a couple Youtube videos already. I plan on changing them out this weekend.
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When I make low speed sharp turns, (like trying to make a U or K turn) the Treg kind of "lurches". Is this common? Is there a fix?
My Treg is a V8 PPS and is one of the first here in the US (took delivery 7/7/03).
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The passenger door key-lock on my Corolla is stuck, so the only way I can open that door is to unlock it from the inside. It had been sticking and hard to get it to work using the key in the lock for a while, but now it won't work at all. I opened the door panel and lubed everything that looked like it needs to be lubed, but that had no effect. The thing you pull to open/lock the door from the inside works a little smoother, and the inside handle that opens the door from the inside works smoother now so that's something at least. But opening a locked door from the outside with a key remains a no-go.
I tried spraying some WD 40 in there, and putting some WD 40 on the key and trying to unstick it that way, but the key-lock remains stuck in the upright position, won't budge at all by twisting/jiggling the key. Any luck unsticking a door key-lock ? Heat? Hammer? Ice? Different kind of lube? Cleanser? Swearing? Or is the only solution to replace the key-lock with a new one?
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I have noticed that when I turn my wheel on my Touareg, mostly sharp turn, I get a slipping/almost grinding noise. I am planning on driving cross country next week and this has me worried.
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Since I got the car i noticed on considerably sharp or normal RIGHT turns my brake fault goes psycho and says service manual yada yada, well my brakes work fine and so does the emergency brake, i also checked to see if i was low on brake fluid, but it was topped off and no noticeable change in fluid level... could this be problems with the brake line?
Its ONLY on RIGHT turns, never goes off on left turns... Its not creating any problems to my driving just distracting and annoying as hell, it goes off roughly 3-4 times I am driving (depending on how far I drive) ...
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Not quite a U turn but more like 3 point turn without the backing up, for a wide/sharp U turn to go full circle, turning the steering wheel to the max. It's typically a left turn in this case as seldom turn wide & around the other way.
Doesn't happen all the time, might depend on the road surface (level or not, etc.) but when it happens, I hear a faint hissing sound like air leaking or running water in a pipe. What might this indicate? I don't suppose it's normal?
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I have a 1997 Corolla with 150k miles.
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The car seems fine on the highway. No loss of power. I did think that the hood felt too warm on a recent trip, but the temperature gauge in the car showed no issue.
The car hesitated when I tried to start it last week, but normally starts fine. It was the first cold day of the year.
I saw some white smoke come out of the tailpipe last week. It only happened once. Coolant and oil levels are fine. The spark plugs look good.
The fill pipe has been leaking gas for several months. It leaks if the tank is more than half full and it drips a bit of gas when I fill up. Two mechanics have not been able to find the leak and have told me not to replace it until it is a problem, given the age of my car.
I took it to a mechanic today (not the one who replaced the cat). He told me that the rough idling is due to the new flex pipe being shorter than what was originally there. He assured me that the car is fine to drive long distances and that there was nothing wrong with it. There's no check engine light or anything on the dash to indicate a problem.
I should be relieved, but I'm not. I've lost confidence in my car. Can the stalling noises and rough idling be explained away by a changed exhaust system? Or are these signs of a problem about to happen?
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When making sharp left turns, I'm getting a very brief red triangle/beep/warning on the MFD that says "problem!". Sometimes it is so fast I don't even see the MFD warning.
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In the summer months when the air conditioning is in use, there is a back up of water. i can hear the water sloshing sound when the air is on and when making sharp turns it actually drains out on the front floor, both driver and passenger sides. it has also overflowed out the backseat air vents. my mechanic has told me the drain on this vehicle is tiny and becomes clogged easily. the car is parked in my garage, not left out in the elements so i disagree.
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1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee LTD. This is a 4X4. This Jeep runs great in all other ways, but only when it's hot out--hot enough to create heat on the front suspension, this problem occurs. The CV Joints have ben changed. Short Trips, it will not happen, only after warming up. It's never happened in cold weather. Been Greased. Three mechanics have looked at this and have found no reason for the problem. . .only to say, yep, it's a problem.
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I have a 2010 Subaru Forester and it has started to make a weird noise when I make slow and sharp turns, like when I am pulling out of a driveway or entering a parking spot. It is not exactly a knocking noise, it is similar to the one when a small piece of rock is stuck on the tire threads, but it is in the center of the car.
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I have recently been having violent shaking when I make a turn to pull into a parking spot or turn at a stop sign. I can park my truck and the truck continues to shake until I turn the motor off. When I restart the truck it runs fine. It doesn't do this all the time just sometimes. I have a 2006 Ford F-150 lariat 2 wheel drive.
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I have a 1995 Dodge Dakota. After a bit of freeway diving and everything is all warmed up the truck makes a rubbing/grinding/groaning noise, but only during sharp turns. Once I straighten the wheels back out the nose goes away. The noise doesn't exist when it's cold though.
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