Toyota Corolla :: 1999 - Engine Shaking / CEL Flashing (Error Codes)
Nov 16, 2013
1999 Toyota Corolla
Error codes: P0301 ... P0304 ... P0300 ... P0420
Symptoms: Car had short touch of the shakes in the morning, parked it for 8 hrs, drove half a mile, and it got the shakes bad and seems like it wants to stall out and the check engine started flashing. After a minute it went back to normal, and then the whole thing happened off and on the last half mile home.
Background: I was told the catalytic converter was in bad shape last time I took her in so I'm assuming that's it. Friend of mine suggested driving it hard to burn out impurities in the cat, but I'm worried about damaging the engine. Going to replace the sparks and spark wires (they're about due anyways).
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I have a 1999 Toyota Corolla. 4 cylinders.
I was on the road about 2 hours from home when my check engine light came on flashing. It stopped flashing so I kept driving. Three more hours of driving at highway speeds and it only came back on once. I then took it into autozone and the code reader told me I had a Cylinder 3 Misfire. The guy told me to change my spark plugs and I would be fine. It was time for a spark plug change anyhow so I drove home and did it. After I changed the spark plugs the car did not start at all. It would cough and sputter and try to start but not actually start. Changed the spark plug wires and then the car stopped even coughing and sputtering. It just didn't start.
I then noticed that my fuel line that feeds directly into the engine was rotten right next to the engine and if I pushed it in I could get the car to try to start. (Try and fail, but at least try.) The fuel line is a molded piece of rubber that flares at each end. It was one of the flares that was rotten and didn't seem to be sealing anymore. The hose is 7 mm inner diameter in the middle and about half an inch on the ends. I took some 3/8 in fuel line and used it to cover over one of the flares. The car tries to start now but wont. 3 of the four cylinders crank. I don't understand how I could break my car on such a simple repair job.
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Actually I bought a used Corolla 2002 with 120K which seemed fine and the driving is fine. After I bought it, I just found out that the seller has removed the check engine light. When I read the ODB codes, It shows three codes of 0171, 0420, 0441. Also I have recently found out that the engine burns excessive amount of oil. (about a quarter per 200 miles). Actually the driving of the car is fine and as long as I add oil engine it seems fine.I think all of these errors might be just due to a small problem like a broken valve (since it's not high mileage). It seems that there is no vacuum leak from hoses as well.
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I have a 2001 Toyota corolla with 150k. If I rev the engine with the car in neutral and my foot off the clutch, it starts to shake at about 2-2.1k rpm. It will also start to shake at 2.5-2.9k rpm when the car is in gear (I can feel it in any gear but it's most noticeable in 5th gear on the freeway).
I just replaced the spark plugs (I know, should have done that a while ago...) but it still has the same vibration. I'll be doing a compression test later today, but I did take a few minutes to check out the motor while the hood was up. I set up a camera and recorded the car from start up and hit 2.1k rpm a few times. The vibration isn't visible but the engine jumped a little right at start up.
Are the motor mounts bad? I've had that same vibration but a lot less intense since I've had the car, but it recently got a little worse.
I uploaded the video to youtube. Search "corollaprincess361"
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I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla CE with about 115,000 miles.While I was traveling on the highway my car started shaking, losing power, and the check engine light started flashing. I drove a mile or two to a rest area because I didn't want to pull over on the highway. I had it towed home. It starts and idles, but I'm afraid to get it out on the road.
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I have a 2000 Toyota Sienna that has had a check engine light for a while. The light would come at times, and go away at others, with prolonged intervals (days, weeks, months) with or without the light.
Suddenly it started losing power, especially on hills (even a small hill). The codes I read are (I include code interpretations from internet search):
P0300: Random or multiple misfire.
P0301: Cylinder 1 misfire.
P0304: Cylinder 4 misfire.
P1130: Air fuel sensor
P1150: I have not found a problem definition for this code.
Might these codes be indicative of a particular problem, or is each problem more likely a problem with its own cause?
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I own a 2010 Toyota Corolla S the 1.8L 2ZR-FE engine. Today after work I started the car in a sheltered car garage and as soon as I started the car the after the initial start up sequence the check engine light stayed on and the traction control light stayed on and right next to it on the left side the "VSC Off" light kept blinking and flashing. I turned off the car and started it several times to see if that did anything and to no avail nothing happened.
While I was driving those lights stayed on and the VSC off light kept on blinking.
I also checked the brakes and the brake fluid and they all seem to be fine, I even checked the fuel door as well.
I am not sure what is wrong. I was looking at some of the complaint sites and most people say it happens when you drive through a deep puddle or if it is cold and wet outside. But that didn't make sense because I drove in the snow and those lights never turned on. The only time I used the ETS button is during the snow storms and I drive at low speeds.
I need to know why this VSC off light is blinking? Is it a bad sensor or is the ABS/ETS brake system broken or is it an ECU issue or is it because of an alignment. Since I was told to get an alignment soon.
See also: 2010 Toyota Corolla Question: Check engine light on and "VSC off" light blinking with the ETS light on.
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My 99 Explorer XLT V6 SOHC has been misfiring lately. In idle the RPM needle fluctuates a bit and the vehicle vibrates and shakes. At night when the lights are on I notice them dim a bit as the engine struggles in idle. It doesnt stall very often at all. Accelerating I notice way less power and the engine studders. Thats when the engine light comes on flashing. Then remains on solid afterwards.
I brought it to a mechanic friend who read the code and it was cylinder two misfire as well as O2 censor. I replaced the plugs and leads and censor. Noticed the plug in cylinder two had little to no gapping. Thought I had fixed the problem. Vehicle ran perfect. Three or four days later driving on the hwy same problem came back. Thinking it must be the coil pack I got one for a good price and replaced it.
Again, the truck ran great for four days and now the problem has returned. Same thing, shaking studdering and flashing engine light. I have verified the locations of the wires and plugs a few times so i believe they are all properly installed.
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So driving home today cel came on and vsc started flashing.
The codes I got were pretty out there
P0420 - cat converter (this one I did expect)
B0cc0 ???
C3a32 ???
U0a8e ???
B3e1f ???
I'm wondering if this was poor communications between the unichip and ecu? As for the vsc flashing, people complained about this during rain. It is currently raining. But not certain this is the issue.
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My girlfriend drives an 09 corolla (1.8L I believe). I have an OBDII bluetooth reader w/ Torque App so to identify the issue I can get some data:
Last week I was driving the corolla and I got P0031: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1). Car seemed to run fine without any issues. My girlfriend brought her car in to her "mechanic". "mechanic" who will replace have of your engine only to realize that your gas cap was cracked. He apparently replaced 02 Bank 1 Sensor 2 (I'm still trying to confirm this and to get the part # to make sure). He reset the ECU and she drove for about 30 miles after which these codes popped up:
P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1)
P0101: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
The car was idling rough. I reset the codes and the car was running fine until all monitor systems were ready. When Catalyst, 02 Heater & 02 Sensor are not ready everything is running fine and I don't see any error codes. I cleared ECU a few times. The last time I was able to drive for over 20 miles without any issues. Currently the only sensor not ready is 02 and car is running fine but I have a feeling once its ready the car will start having issues again:
Summary (if you don't want to read everything)
*P0031: H02S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1) - Car runs fine
*Mechanic replaces 02 Bank 1 Sensor 2 (Trying to find part # and double check sensor name)
*ECU reset and car runs fine for 30 miles
*P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1) and P0101: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
*ECU reset - car sputters and hesitates
*When all monitors are ready same codes (P0172 & P0101)
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I filled up my car three day ago and ever since then its been shaking when I brake and when I speed up and pretty much any time the car is moving. Why its doing this I just had it in the shop two weeks ago for a full check up. What the issue could be?
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Had my car checked prior to traveling, news brakes, drums, rotors, they also found ice under my car and in my wheels, the mechanic broke those off. I had no problems with the car prior to the mechanic giving me clearance for travel. When I arrived in Ohio, within a week of arrival my front end would shake at about 70mph, continuously. It is a significant shake. The whole front end (steering wheel, etc.). If I slow down to around 55 mph or 60 for around five to ten min. and then speed up it would stop for a while. If I am on the road for more than 30 min it will do it again. I attempted to replicate this weekend with no luck until I was on the road for 20 to 30 min. I felt it might be ice again so ran my car thru the car wash.
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Two cars, a Toyota Camry and a Corolla, are shaking when driving them, esp. around 35-45 mph when accelerating. This started right after a historic snow storm in Virginia that brought 24" of snow and temperatures in the teens and a bit lower. Nothing appears to be wrong with any of the tires. The shaking feels like the car as a whole; it does not really come through the steering wheel. We`ve only driven each car once since the storm.
I`m thinking this may be from all the moisture and cold. Does this sound reasonable? Do you think it might work its way out, or do we have serious problems with two different cars on our hands?
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I have a 2000 Corolla CE with 48k miles. When braking hard, the pedal vibrates and the brake performance was not that good. So I had the mechanic replace the front calipers (L&R), both brake pads on front, and rear drums.
After that, when braking, the pedal vibrates...but not that much. So I had the mechanic replace the front rotors (L&R). Now, when braking, the performance is good and it does not vibrate.
However, if I brake really hard...there is a little bit of pedal vibration AND shaking steering wheel. My car also needs an alignment since it pulls to the left (will get one on Friday).
Do you think the shaking steering wheel and the slight pedal vibration is due to the alignment or maybe the rear rotors need to be replaced? When traveling at 70mpg, sometimes the steering wheel slightly (very slightly) shakes....my guess this the tires need to be balance/alignment.
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My exhaust system was replaced on my 2005 Corolla in August. After driving it for just a few days, there was a shaking when the car idled. The mechanic replaced two engine mounts and the idle was much worse! He said it was ok to drive, so I started on my planned trip across the country. In Denver I took it to a mechanic at the Toyota dealer and they adjusted the throttle. It was better for a while, maybe a week and 1,000 miles. Now it is worse than ever! Having gotten two totally different causes from mechanics, I am not sure what to do next.
Also just before the exhaust sytem went, I had the 60,000 mile service done and had the car totally checked out by both Toyota, and an independent mechanic who specilizes in Japanese cars. After a car wash in California, the maintence required light came on.
What is going on?
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I have a 2010 Toyota RAV4. In February 2014 at 34,600 miles when the car was 46 months old I had the EVAP (charcoal) canister and filter replaced for $1,300. Error codes were P043, P0401 and P0402. Recently I had the following check engine error codes appear (P043E & F, P2401, P2402 & P2419) and was told by my mechanic that the car basically had the same problem. I am now at about 50,000 miles. I don't believe this type of problem is very common; also I think that the EVAP should continue functioning for a lot longer than ~4 years and now ~1.5 years. How likely is it that I got a "bad" original EVAP charcoal canister & filter and then the replacement was also "bad"? Might there be something else that is defective that is causing the EVAP canister to go bad? I don't generally top off the gas tank when filling up.
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So I have a Toyota Corolla 2004, and 117000 miles. Just this Saturday (2 days past) I got an oil change and a tire rotation (at a Valvoline drive through service station). This morning, once I was going 50-60 miles an hour on the highway, the steering wheel began to shake (left and right, fast). The vibrations come in waves, where maintaining a constant speed, it will shake, then the shaking will smooth out, and then it will start to shake again, in ~30 second cycles.
I'm assuming that this problem has something to do with my tire rotation, since it's the first one I did in recent memory, (Thought they do this as part of where I got my care inspected?) .. What should I do?
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My Corolla was purchased new, and at 29500 miles it started getting a strange vibration (not the steering wheel but the car itself) whenever going up a hill or at higher speeds on the highway but ONLY when the gas was pressed (You once you let your foot off the gas at the same speed the vibration stops). After three attempts of taking the car to the dealer where the vehicle was purchased, the only responses I got were "We cannot duplicate the problem." After about the 6th time, I drove the car with one of the Sales Managers because the Service Manager wasn't there, and that manager felt the vibration, the dealership kept the car for three days, after which told me nothing is wrong, and returned the vehicle to me. I then turned to Toyota Headquarters, who set me up with a case and a case worker, and all he told me was to try working with another dealer. I went to a second dealer (closer to me house), and they did several inspections and doing a rotation, balance, and alignment.
They said the problem was unknown, but that they RECOMMEND that I get four new tires, thinking that MIGHT solve the problem. I bought 4 new tires, and after getting the tires replaced, and balanced and aligned AGAIN, the problem continues. The Toyota dealership then told me that they don't know what the problem is, and now I'm out of options. I don't know where else to turn, who else to speak with, and what else to do. I already paid off 2 years of the finance on my car, and have 2.5 years left. Side notes (whether irrelevant or not): The day I bought my car my mother got the same exact car just a different color. Her car now has 20000 more miles than mine, and runs beautifully. My car on the other hand, besides the vibration issue, seems like it has less power and has a very difficult time accelerating, unlike the other Corolla.
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Recently I had a new clutch put in my car (192,000 miles on it) at the toyota dealership. My car has never been the same. It has not pep to it and bucks now. I brought it back when the engine light came on and they said I needed new spark plugs (my husband replaced them with non toyota ones and the car ran fine) so I said fine. The light went off but car still didn't run better. The light has come back on, we found out how it get it to go off and put some cleaner in the gas tank. After 2 days the light came back on again and the car still runs poorly. I don't want to go back to toyota since they messed my car up in the first place.
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I have a Toyota Corolla 99 that I have owned for a bit over 2 years; it has 97500 miles. After around 2,000 miles after an oil change it starts burning oil (no smoke or smell). I tried to check it often to make sure I am not running on empty. The last time I had to fill it up once and top off a bit another time before the oil change. I recently also changed the serpentine belt.
I thought the serpentine belt was the noise I was hearing when idling. Now, the noise is still there. Does not get worse when accelerating so hoping it is not a engine knock. Was told by Autozone guy that might be the iddle throttle. Hard to describe noise. No clank, almost like something spinning with a noise every 2 seconds.
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I have a toyota corolla 2010 with a flashing blue light underneath the steering wheel which has been consistently flashing for the better part of a year. I can't find anything about this online.
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