Toyota - Corolla :: 1998 - Engine Light Came On - Transmission Is Not Smooth
May 9, 2011
I drive a 98 Toyota Corolla. This morning I notice when I was driving that I had to get up to a higher speed when I shifted into 5th gear. And also when I did shift it was not as smooth as it once was, it started tp shake slightly and felt like it puttered briefly (the only way I could describe it). When I got about 5 minutes away from work, my check engine light starts flashing then eventually shuts off. What I need to do or if I can solve this myself?
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About two weeks ago, while driving on a hot, humid summer night, the check engine light in my 1998 Toyota Corolla came on. The following day, I took it into my mechanic, who plugged it in and came up with the code P0441 (Purge flow fault). He told me it was likely related to the fuel vapor canister, though I see this can also have to do with vacuum lines for the purge valve and canister or a bad purge valve itself. My gas cap was, and had been, tight, so it wasn't something as simple as that.
Reluctant to deal with this immediately, I went back to driving it, and lo and behold - the light went off after several days! Unfortunately, the light came BACK ON after several more. And most recently (a few days after coming on again), the light has now gone off!
Both times the light has gone off, the weather has been rather wet, but otherwise, there doesn't seem to be a clear pattern. What this on again off again pattern might say about the problem?
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My honda accord 2003, 4 cylinder (101000 miles) has constantly check engine light on, also transmission has been rough (it started right after a trip to mountains). The transmission sometimes becomes smooth as normal but still check engine light on and most of times transmission is jerky. I took it to mechanic, he did testing and there was no code.
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I have a '98 5-Speed Corolla. If I rev the engine when the car is in neutral and warming up I hear an odd grinding noise when I let off the gas and the engine goes down to idle. The noise does not occur if I put my clutch in. Is this something to worry about?
Also, I'm wondering what CV joints sound like when they're failing.
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I have a 98 Toyota Corolla, manual transmission. When I come to a hard stop, or make a hard turn, the engine either stalls or almost stalls. I've had it serviced lately with new plugs and wires, oil change and fuel system cleaning. The engine idles fine when you start it and are just sitting there. The problem seems to come with stopping hard or turning while quickly slowing, when the clutch is engaged. If I am able to hit the gas I can keep it running and then it runs fine.
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I own a 2010 Toyota Corolla S the 1.8L 2ZR-FE engine. Today after work I started the car in a sheltered car garage and as soon as I started the car the after the initial start up sequence the check engine light stayed on and the traction control light stayed on and right next to it on the left side the "VSC Off" light kept blinking and flashing. I turned off the car and started it several times to see if that did anything and to no avail nothing happened.
While I was driving those lights stayed on and the VSC off light kept on blinking.
I also checked the brakes and the brake fluid and they all seem to be fine, I even checked the fuel door as well.
I am not sure what is wrong. I was looking at some of the complaint sites and most people say it happens when you drive through a deep puddle or if it is cold and wet outside. But that didn't make sense because I drove in the snow and those lights never turned on. The only time I used the ETS button is during the snow storms and I drive at low speeds.
I need to know why this VSC off light is blinking? Is it a bad sensor or is the ABS/ETS brake system broken or is it an ECU issue or is it because of an alignment. Since I was told to get an alignment soon.
See also: 2010 Toyota Corolla Question: Check engine light on and "VSC off" light blinking with the ETS light on.
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This is a California car that won't pass smog tests with a lit check engine light. I don't know the specific code, but the description is that the torque converter is staying in the "off" position. Apparently the lock up torque converter is part of the emissions system in that if the torque converter does not lock up then the rpm's are higher and that produces more pollutants.
1st step was to flush out the transmission and the flush made sure all the fluid in the torque converter was removed and replaced. After that was done the trans fluid has stayed nice and clean and pink for about 400 miles. The CEL was turned off after this service but came back on in a few days at about 200 miles. Next, the solenoid that activates the torque converter was replaced. The CEL was turned off again, an this time the CEL came back on after a hour of driving on local errands.
Me and my generally good mechanic are hung up now. We were betting the solenoid change out would solve the problem. It seems that the torque converter is in fact operating properly. The tranny shifts smoothly and the rpm's drop at the proper times indicating the torque converter is locking up.
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At a service station in NJ, my gas cap flew into the wind and the attendant replaced it. My check engine light came on a day after getting gas (not in NJ) so I took it in to my garage. Ends up that the (new) gas cap has a crack and a new one is getting ordered. Now, whenever I am filling up the gas tank, it keeps shutting itself off (very frequently . . . like every 1/2 gallon or so). This happened when the check engine light was on and after it was initially turned off by the mechanic. I asked a mechanic at the garage because it keeps happening and I can't fill the car fully and he said it happens with some cars and you have to hold it a certain way or something. This can't be fixed and I'll just have to get used to it until I get a new car. My question -- how could this have just started happening? Its a 2002 Corolla and I've had it for years without problems. Is it possible that when I get a new gas cap and the computer gets re-started, it will fix itself?
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When I start the car for the first time of the day, the shifting is not as smooth as when the engine is hot. Is this normal ? When I checked the trans fluid, it was between 25 and 75...(the second little mark on the dipstick) but I just drove about 5min so maybe the engine wasn't warm enough..
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I have a Toyota Corolla 96. The check light is on. I took it to AutoZone and the guy told me everything is Ok. I looked the oil level this morning and it was low. The temperature sensor is normal and the car runs fine. My car experience is almost zero....
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Recently I had a new clutch put in my car (192,000 miles on it) at the toyota dealership. My car has never been the same. It has not pep to it and bucks now. I brought it back when the engine light came on and they said I needed new spark plugs (my husband replaced them with non toyota ones and the car ran fine) so I said fine. The light went off but car still didn't run better. The light has come back on, we found out how it get it to go off and put some cleaner in the gas tank. After 2 days the light came back on again and the car still runs poorly. I don't want to go back to toyota since they messed my car up in the first place.
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My girlfriend's 2001 Toyota Corolla has a recurrent Check Engine light problem. It has 144,000 miles on it. For the last few years, we have been unable to keep the light turned off. We have replaced the oxygen sensors and cleaned the MAF sensor. Our mechanic can't find the problem.
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I have a 2004 Toyota Corolla.
Check engine light was on so I took the car to Midas they pulled a code (133) and they said its Oxygen Sensor is not working. I took the car to Auto Zone for second opinion, Auto zone confirmed that Oxygen Sensor might be having problem. Then I inquire in couple of places for the price to fix O2 sensor, all most all places I got the same quote to fix it.And after a day or so check engine light went off. Check engine light was on for a day or so.
Now I am confused, is there a problem with Oxygen sensors? Should I still go ahead and fix these sensor or should I wait till Check engine light comes back again?
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For a few months, I have been getting check engine lights on my Toyota Corolla 2002. The check engine light often goes away by itself.
I took my car to a mechanic with a decent reputation after a couple weeks of the problem. He thought he fixed it and gave the car back to me. The check engine light kept coming back on, and I kept going back. The mechanic topped off the coolant, replaced certain hoses, host clamps, sensors and other parts (like the solenoid canister). After the fifth trip back (and eight weeks of time), he refunded my money.
The check engine light comes on and goes off. Right now with no check engine light on, I get codes P0125 and PO441 PD.
What will happen if I keep ignoring these check engine lights or the codes that persist when the check engine light is not on? I was thinking of going to another mechanic. I think I want to wait for a few more weeks to see if I notice a pattern. I do not drive that many miles each day (much less than average).
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I have a 2002 Toyota Corolla CE with about 115,000 miles.While I was traveling on the highway my car started shaking, losing power, and the check engine light started flashing. I drove a mile or two to a rest area because I didn't want to pull over on the highway. I had it towed home. It starts and idles, but I'm afraid to get it out on the road.
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Had the oil changed today; before doing so, I saw that the check engine light had come on. Have been told by 3 professional car maintenance people that there is no connection between needing oil / oil change and check engine, that it would have been the check maintenance light.
Will take it in for diagnostic test by dealer. Also, was told by the oil change guy that he heard pinging which could mean that the car needs to have the valves adjusted, and that the check engine light is due to needing something or other with the gas tank filter which could have a leak/crack, etc.
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The check-engine light on my 2006 Toyota Corolla came on a couple of weeks ago after I started the car on a 7-degree F morning. Code was P-0171. Mechanic cleaned the MAF and the light went off. Light stayed off 'til I started the car on another 7-degree F morning. Mechanic said that the MAF didn't look dirty, and the readings didn't change after cleaning. No vacuum leaks. O2 sensors responding normally. What's going on? I travel a lot in this car, so I don't want to damage the car by ignoring the check-engine light.
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I have a 1998 Toyota Rav 4 with apporximately 140,000 miles. When I fill the gas tank the check engine light comes on, the engine runs rough (like a misfire). Diagnostic code comes back a "lean mixture,bank 1". When the tank reaches approximately 3/4 of a tank the light goes out and the engine runs smooth and fine. Then, when the tank reaches just belwo hal a tank the light once again comes on and starts running rough again. Have drained the tank, used dry gas, Startron to counter the ethonal etc. Nothing seems to work.
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1998 Corolla LD ... Diagnostic tests show that my check engine light stays on due to a charcoal canister. Is this an expensive repair?
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I have a check engine light on the car and in the past it has been bad gas or a vacuum leak. Dealer says on toyota that is not possible.
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I have a 2004 Toyota Corolla- the CEL has been on for months- the code is for small evap leakI have tried cleaning rust from filler neck at gas cap- no change. I have had a smoke test done with no leak found.
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